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    Thread: Mk1 1Z/AHU M-TDI

    1. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-04-2010 10:11 PM #1
      I have just picked up a 1998 AHU complete donor, and my plans are to swap the engine and trans in to my 1981 Jetta. I understand that the newer motor will accept all the same motor mounts from the 1.6D, but the trans mount may need to be fabbed up, which isn't a big deal really. Also I understand the new motor is a drive by wire and a cable shifted transmission.. I have the entire car, so I will have practically any part necessary from the mk3 side of things.

      A thought was brought to my mind.. converting the car to CE2, or using the entire harness from the 98 and put it in the 81.. both of these were brought to the front of my brain, but i know nothing of either, care to explain it to me?

      I will have (hopefully if I can get it going) another car to drive while this one takes the garage spot for a while.. so I will have to rip the interior apart to make the shifter happen as I have to cut out the old one.. and this one will need to be fit in there somehow (anyone got a link as to how they have seen the cable shift adapted to an mk1?).

      Also on the pedal cluster, how does this work out? (anyone cross over any good threads on this part either?) I am still on the learning curve of a lot of this stuff as to how to get the engine operating properly in the mk1. The car is in my possession so I will begin to tinker around on it and figure out the TDI diesel side of things. I mean I am not a complete invalid I have researched a bit on how the TDI's function so I am good on that part.

      Also this engine has an A/c compressor and my car once had A/c.. could this be made to work out or what? I mean I guess there really is no reason why it couldn't work right? A couple fittings should hook things up nicely eh? Could I actually use the lines from the AHU engine? and run them in to the condenser in the car?

      The turbo spools up niiicely its starting its spool at like 1400 and is screaming by 23-2500, I'm very excited!

      I would appreciate every piece of information you have to provide! I have been doing lots of reading, but the same info twice is never a bad thing.. just makes understanding it easier Eh?

      Thanks so much guys, wish me luck on this project!!

    2. 08-05-2010 12:31 AM #2
      Sounds like a cool project.
      I hope you document it here even though I think this forum is the last place to ask for most of this info.

    3. Member ronnie_v's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 09:15 AM #3
      Around here, people make the engine an M-TDI. They lose all the electronics, and just mount an mechanical pump. Of an old volkswagen LT, i believe.

    4. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 12:24 PM #4
      A1 thanks man! just what I was looking for perfect. I was unaware that it was a combination of those swaps (1.8T, ABA, VR) that makes it easy to find some build threads as they are frequent swaps, and pick out all the information I need! Thank-you very much! I may very well just do a good compilation of all the info I find and make up an AHU->Mk1 thread. Yes the mk3 TDI (only came in 96 Passats and 97-98 Jetta's for mk3) were drive by wire, and ECU controlled. Which is actually a very good for the pump timing as it adjusts itself to a wide variety of timing numbers to have the best fueling and injection timing all the time. I was totally thinking of your piggy backing idea A1 but I don't think it will work quite the same way, as I think I may also need the mk3 cluster Which is awesome because it has a tach! SCORE lol I will read through a couple really in depth swap threads and combine all the information I need, thanks a bunch. Also the condenser is all that is left of my current A/C it has had the compressor taken away some time ago. The old systems are upgradable to the new stuff no? this should be totally doable really, if you could just get the fittings right to hook the new compressor up to the old condenser no? Why are you against A/C? lol I think it would be a crazy luxury on a car with crank windows and manual locks

      Mr. Shanahan, it appears a good place to ask for the info as it seems to be just a bunch of Gasser stuff all in one. I asked here mainly for the volume of people that pass through the MK1 forum, easy to get someone who knows TDI stuff as well who is just passing through eh? It worked to pull A1 in with his infinite knowledge on swaps and other assorted tomfoolery

      Ronnie, Yeah I have read a bit on the M-TDI side of stuff, and I don't think it is a route I wish to go just yet. Maybe in the future I'd like to experiment with it. For now however a straight TDI swap seems easiest/cheapest for me, present time.

      Few more questions regarding what I should keep off the donor, as the shell has to be gone A.S.A.P!


      I will need;

      • Engine and Trans
      • All Engine Wiring (should I just keep the entire car wiring harness for the hell of it???)
      • Fuse-box
      • Cluster
      • Engine Harness
      • ECU
      • Axles (I think I will need inner flanges to adapt to my axles?? if I am not mistaken??)
      • Shifter cables as well as the shifter box


      Anyone see anything crucial I might be missing?

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      08-05-2010 02:28 PM #5
      It looks like you're on the right path thus far with this build.
      Last edited by Rhetoric; 08-05-2010 at 02:38 PM.

    6. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 02:32 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      late model cabriolets are not CE2 and will not plug and play into a MK3 fuse block
      Glad someone caught that.

      They are CE1
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

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      08-05-2010 02:37 PM #7
      Huh, I learn something new everyday. I redact my original statement.

    8. Member syracusegli's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 03:25 PM #8
      depends on how much of the donor car comforts you would like to keep..

      i would prolly swap everything.. simplify the wiring, swap all that.. i would swap the shift box to keep it hydraulic and mount the master cylinder somewheres..

      vr did the hydro master swap cuz he put the vr in .. check his thread for an idea/example of what you could do..
      Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
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      08-05-2010 03:47 PM #9
      i started a thread asking about about mk3 a/c in a mk1 about 6-8 months ago..


      edit:
      here
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ight=mk3+a%2Fc

    10. Member ronnie_v's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 05:30 PM #10
      i build an 1.9 afn tdi in a mk1 golf last year. And i fitted an corrado gearbox to it, with cables.
      Took all the hydraulic stuff from the clutch-system off, and replaced the cilynder on the transmission with an mechanical part of an vw transporter ( t3). This way you can use the old clutch cable.

    11. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      08-05-2010 09:57 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      the clutch cable setup in this instance is crappy when you compare it to the hydro setup....very few people are rocking a cable setup for just that reason...i mean if you are going thru all the trouble to fab everything in what's a bracket and a couple of hydro lines?

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...etup-into-Blue.
      especially when eurospeed sells a kit
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
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    12. Member ultravw's Avatar
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      08-06-2010 03:09 AM #12
      I have swaped a 96 Passat TDI into a 81 rabbit truck but I did not use the o2A trans but the original o2o five speed and flywheel. The 81 AC brackets, alternator and motor mounts all bolt on with minor triming to the inner timing cover shield and modification to the engine cover support bracket. The Passat's throttle potentiometer was installed by modifing its plate to fit the A1 pedal cluster. I combined the Passat's schematic to the 81 truck's schematic. Not to many of the wires are needed to get it running properly, but this is not currently using the Passat's instrument cluster.

      I have another 96 Passat TDI setup I am planning to install in my 82 Rabbit truck and plan to use the 96 accessories and o2A trans so I would also like to know the best way to install the hydrolic cylinder and cable shifter as well as the transaxle mount.

    13. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      08-06-2010 03:14 AM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by ultravw View Post
      I have another 96 Passat TDI setup I am planning to install in my 82 Rabbit truck and plan to use the 96 accessories and o2A trans so I would also like to know the best way to install the hydrolic cylinder and cable shifter as well as the transaxle mount.
      Build or buy mounts, modify your pedal/ bracket or buy the eurospeed one.
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

    14. Senior Member vdubspeed's Avatar
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      08-06-2010 09:29 AM #14
      eurospeed's 02a hydro clutch sucks.

      Buy a welder, learn to fab your own shiz.

      Some people like the clutch 02a but I HATED it. I used a eurovan and honda cable and never got it to feel good. I have a hydro clutch with an 02j and it feels great.

      Your a/c might be an issue if the compressor hits the crossmember like an ABA. I know I had to do some extensive work to keep the a/c in my 1.8t rabbit but damns it's nice to have 263whp and a/c.

      Diesel swap is cake especically if the car is already a diesel. DO NOT swap the entire harness just for the engine on a diesel. If all the car stuff works(lights, wipers, cluster, etc) then just splice in the engine.

      I've never done a 1.9 swap but I've done a lot of other swaps and like someone mentioned already...a 1.9 is will be like mixing some other swaps so generally searching will help.

      HTH,

      Jason
      Built > Bought
      58 Beetle | 79 Rabbit 20vT | 84 GTI TDI |84 GTI 16vT |12 Golf TDI ----89 325i | 99 QCSB Ram Cummins | 02 Burb 4x4 2500

    15. Member TheBurninator's Avatar
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      08-06-2010 12:50 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by A1steaksauce View Post
      apparently some have missed the link i was posting

      here's, in my opinion, the best way to go about doing so:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...etup-into-Blue
      reading is for dummies
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      Quote Originally Posted by ein View Post
      * IMPORTANT* The English language is completely inadequate for describing how spectacularly stupid this thread is.

    16. Member hillgiant's Avatar
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      08-06-2010 06:15 PM #16
      A zero-rewire* solution is to find an AAZ fuel pump and get it converted to M-TDI. There are at least two companies that will handle the conversion if you send them a core. Then it is a matter of attaching a gear and getting a belt to it. M-TDI is not likely to be as efficient as the drive by wire setup. But overall, I think the installation would be easier if the car is already diesel.

      *almost zero: fan switch, glow plugs, and whatever instrumentation you want need to be sorted.

    17. Member glx2.8's Avatar
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      08-09-2010 04:12 PM #17
      thought about doing this swap myself over the winter into my cabby, but my OG motor gave out before then so i just said to hell with it ill toss in a 20vt

      since you are in ontario, you may want to talk to cliff at ESS, he is just finishing up my 1.8t swap into my mk1...

      yes the O2A needs a modified mount, i know where you can get one.

      i didn't think ahu tdis were drive by wire but thats just me, i can take some pictures but like i said before talk to cliff at ESS because he changed my car to drive by cable as opposed to drive by wire.

    18. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-10-2010 02:15 AM #18
      Hey guys thanks for all the replies,

      I know the engine can be modified to drive by cable by fitting a mechanical TDI pump to it, but i dont think its something I want to do.. as it will be just as much work as fitting the drive by wire pedal I'm sure. LOL

      I have decided to keep the car for the time being, and do some off the road work on my 81 before I take this engine

    19. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-20-2010 11:48 PM #19
      ok so i have a few more questions on just how deep i should go with this swap!!

      A friend of mine who is pretty fluent on MK3's said that if I don't keep the antitheft part of the harness the ECU will go in to a sort of lock-down mode when the system is not disarmed when the doors are unlocked.. SO! i was thinking..

      If I'm gonna do this.. I think I should really do this

      Maybe I should swap the FULL CE2 harness.. Right down to the cluster & power locks.. Ehh ehh?? Maybe I should even keep the dash.. for further possibilities??? That would be pretty cool to do as well down the line...

      I mean it would essentially make the electrical part of the swap a ton easier.. more work, but easier work really I think. Label every thing and then run it through the 81, then meter out what does what.. one at a time eh? The only one I seeing giving trouble is the cabin fan motor and the brake lights .. How will the mk1 pedal cluster and brake switch trigger the mk3 wiring? What would be involved at swapping the whole pedal cluster over??

      glx2.8 I will be pm'ng you following this post on that tranny mount. Also I don't think there is anyway to go about modifying the TDI drive by wire to cable other than making it an M-TDI.

      The axle ends will come off the mk3 axles and go on the mk1 axles in the car correct? to get that all in order as well.. just trying to cover my bases before i get to deep on this.

      thanks people!

    20. Member 4000stq's Avatar
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      08-21-2010 06:00 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post
      ok so i have a few more questions on just how deep i should go with this swap!!

      A friend of mine who is pretty fluent on MK3's said that if I don't keep the antitheft part of the harness the ECU will go in to a sort of lock-down mode when the system is not disarmed when the doors are unlocked.. SO! i was thinking..

      If I'm gonna do this.. I think I should really do this

      Maybe I should swap the FULL CE2 harness.. Right down to the cluster & power locks.. Ehh ehh?? Maybe I should even keep the dash.. for further possibilities??? That would be pretty cool to do as well down the line...

      I mean it would essentially make the electrical part of the swap a ton easier.. more work, but easier work really I think. Label every thing and then run it through the 81, then meter out what does what.. one at a time eh? The only one I seeing giving trouble is the cabin fan motor and the brake lights .. How will the mk1 pedal cluster and brake switch trigger the mk3 wiring? What would be involved at swapping the whole pedal cluster over??

      glx2.8 I will be pm'ng you following this post on that tranny mount. Also I don't think there is anyway to go about modifying the TDI drive by wire to cable other than making it an M-TDI.

      The axle ends will come off the mk3 axles and go on the mk1 axles in the car correct? to get that all in order as well.. just trying to cover my bases before i get to deep on this.

      thanks people!
      looks like this project will be way over your head, good luck anyway.
      loud `n low, rollin' coal

    21. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-21-2010 09:48 PM #21
      aww really? come on be supportive not negative.

      How am I supposed to learn anything if I never ask any questions? Yes this thread has been useful in that it has answered a lot of questions of mine, especially you A1. Thank-you for your knowledge.

      Sure those things may be stupid but it would be fun to do it, have an alarm system / Central Locking in a sh!tty 81 Jetta!?!? Can't you see the awesome behind this?

      I was unaware that the mk3 still used just a plain switch to send power to the brake lights.. seems to me a relay should have been used for the three brake lights it has. I may not be as knowledgeable on wiring as yourself there A1, but I'm still only a year-half young at doing wiring. So forgive my incompetence. I argued the point to him that it should be an easy solution to get the anti theft system out of the equation.. only reason i thought he was correct is because i thought the anti-theft was part of the ECU.

      This simplifies a few things really well then. Thank you

      Now I need your insight on which route to start with.. I mean swapping in the full shebam to begin with is a lot at once, and I don't have a welder just yet (on my wish list) so metal fab is tricky to accomplish.. so what i was thinking would be to mate the 1.9 to the 020 to start with.. maintain the stock speedo, stock cluster really. Upon thinking however, the wiring swap will not leave anything for the cluster to plug in too.. JEsus..

      New Game Plan. gonna have to do it all at once. Engine, Trans, CE2, Cluster, Shifter, Clutch.

      I've seen and read good methods on how to do the clutch so that shouldn't be too much trouble.. gonna have to borrow a welder. The Shifter looks interesting, Funksoulkitty did an excellent job of mounting hers. to me from her pics it looks like she mounted it up through the bottom then used that cross brace to hold it up and in? Interesting. Mind you she is using a 02J, which may or may not be different then the 02A shifter..



      Is this really enough to hold that whole assembly in there without any rear bracing??

      Engine mounts, the front and passenger one from the original 1.6 diesel will fit yes? trimmed to just bolt to the block i think i have seen. what about the tranny mount on the back of the engine? How will this bolt up?

      @4000 you never tackle a big project you never tried before? or did you just know how to do everything from the start? myself, I gotta start somewhere. Might as well be a challenge no?

    22. 08-21-2010 10:05 PM #22
      I have a 1.9TDI engnie to swap a volkswagen T3, any information about what gearbox can be running????

    23. Member 4000stq's Avatar
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      08-22-2010 12:48 AM #23
      not using the TDI trans from the mk3 would be dumb. the 02a trans is stronger and has taller gears. running the 020 (assuming, an FN or FH)you would be limited (by RPM) to about 90mph depending on tire size . the only reason not to run the 02a would be if you couldn't find/afford one. but you have the whole car so.....
      Last edited by 4000stq; 08-22-2010 at 02:17 AM.
      loud `n low, rollin' coal

    24. Member Shawn B's Avatar
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      08-22-2010 03:08 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by vdubspeed View Post
      Buy a welder, learn to fab your own shiz.

      Some people like the clutch 02a but I HATED it. I used a eurovan and honda cable and never got it to feel good. I have a hydro clutch with an 02j and it feels great.
      I run a custom built tranny mount and no rear mount with my O2J set up. Also using the the hydro to cable adapter with the Honda clutch cable. My clutch feels fine.

    25. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-22-2010 11:43 PM #25
      no rear mount eh? Only run the two sides and the front? Isn't that kind of sketchy? I mean i'm not saying it is as I have no idea.. but what holds all the torquing from the engine?

      Cable Clutch seems to be an alright option as well really. what is all required here? haven't come across any definitive answers on it really.

      @4000 I agree with you %100, it would be dumb to run the old outdated 020 that will detonate under the %280 increase in torque..

      Engine, Trans, Shifter, Clutch, CE2, Cluster. Hefty.

      EDIT: Upon further looking upon the cable clutch... holy expensive! Seems for the price its worth tackling a hydro setup.. Doesn't seem too hard. Just gotta get me a welder!
      Last edited by 8v-of-fury; 08-22-2010 at 11:46 PM.

    26. Member 4000stq's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 12:26 AM #26
      not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up
      loud `n low, rollin' coal

    27. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 12:34 AM #27
      Somebody was bored and searching 02a's
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
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      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    28. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 01:17 AM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by 4000stq View Post
      not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up
      rear mount looks like it could easily be made up with 4-5 pieces of mild steel fairly easily.. dunno why it would be left out when it holds all the rear rotation of the engine when torquing. but hey, to each his own.

      yes I am bored, at least I'm using the search!!
      Last edited by 8v-of-fury; 08-23-2010 at 01:22 AM.

    29. Member Shawn B's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 07:44 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by 8v-of-fury View Post
      no rear mount eh? Only run the two sides and the front? Isn't that kind of sketchy? I mean i'm not saying it is as I have no idea.. but what holds all the torquing from the engine?
      Quote Originally Posted by 4000stq View Post
      not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up

      This is with an 02J tranny and the aluminum MKIV upright. I am using a custom tranny mount that has been welded into the frame rail and reinforced. Haven't had a problem other than the stock MKIV threads in the upright are fine and I re-tapped them to a coarser threaded grade 8 bolt. I am also using polyurethane bushings in it. And yes, NO rear mount.

    30. Member 4000stq's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 07:54 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Shawn B View Post
      This is with an 02J tranny and the aluminum MKIV upright. I am using a custom tranny mount that has been welded into the frame rail and reinforced. Haven't had a problem other than the stock MKIV threads in the upright are fine and I re-tapped them to a coarser threaded grade 8 bolt. I am also using polyurethane bushings in it. And yes, NO rear mount.
      Quote Originally Posted by 4000stq View Post
      not running a rear mount is a bad idea with the mk1 mount setup, esp with a diesel. not hard to fab up
      loud `n low, rollin' coal

    31. Member Shawn B's Avatar
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      08-23-2010 09:13 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by 4000stq View Post

      All I did was emphasize that I was not running a typical mount set up and more importantly, explain what I am running

    32. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      08-24-2010 11:21 PM #32
      I mean if it is equally supported elsewhere I suppose it is perfectly fine right? How much does the engine torque back in the bay when revving it? Just curious on the other possibilities of this setup. I will probably go with a rear mount of sorts, but its interesting to learn all the angles.

      Also at this point I am just thinking of all the little things that may snag me up come D-Day. Just noticed looking back at a picture, will the two wires that come from the fuel tank sender unit work with the 98 cluster and such?

      Also on the cabin fan, I suppose this can be self relayed by me, or is it already?

      Headlights will be relayed, and possibly upgraded to Halogen bulbs instead of sealed beams.

    33. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      09-03-2010 02:41 AM #33
      Dear A1 I've got a few more questions for ya buddy and for others who know this ish as well. Today I commenced taking apart the front end and removing the engine wiring harness. Labelling every single vacuum hose, plug, and connector.

      Had to shut down shop and wait out a rain lol




      But there are a few things (which I'm sure are essential as part of the swap) that I just don't have names for, or have no idea on their function. So if you wouldn't mind helping me out a little bit that'd be great.

      First off these two switches i'm guessing, both have rubber lines going to them. I believe the left ones lines go down to the cold side of the turbo, and the others go to the intake tract. what are they and what is their purpose? They are slated to make the swap with the engine.



      The next is this little guy that used to reside up near the coolant bottle, and has to vacuum lines running in to it. One from the vacuum pump and the other goes in to the cabin with the coolant lines on the firewall. What does it do?



      Next question is how do i disconnect this monster!? It looks as though it is a connector for most of the front of the engines electrical sources, a very good idea in my mind, one easy connector.. whole engine should be this way. One connector takes the engine off the harness . I tried pulling, and twisting, I gave up for fear of busting it.



      Which leaves me with about thirty more questions sadly no pictures though..

      Rad sensor and fan wiring, I was thinking to be honest the easiest way of doing this would be to fab up some way to mount the mk3 rad in the 81, as then i would be able to plug and play literally everything. Temp sensor, fan wiring, and the hoses would plumb right up. I was also thinking of using the mk3 coolant bottle as well so that way I could maintain the coolant level device of the ECU. There is some module of sorts underneath the coolant bottle that I have no idea what it is for.. What is its purpose as well?

      For the lines that that go from the vacuum pump and then to the switched device, can I use this to supply vacuum to my 81 HVAC??

      The brake fluid level checker and brake fluid reservoir. will the reservoir fit on the on the 81's master? as it would make it easier to run the hydro clutch and all that junk I would think.

      How do I go about removing the A/c Compressor and power steering pump? I think the Power steering is the only thing on the V belt? or is the WP on there too? Will the alt need a new bracket to fit on the engine without the a/c pump there? Or can it be cut and modified to make work minus the A/c.. ?

      What sort of complications will I run in to by weeding out the A/c wiring? Will the ECU see it as a problem?

      Also on swapping the car over to complete CE2, what about for the headlight switch? that is a very different switch.. how will there wiring interface? and such?

      that concludes it for today I guess. thanks guys! Get back to me love to hear some feedback.. !

    34. Member violentaesthete's Avatar
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      09-03-2010 11:14 AM #34
      you should pm radojon about this swap, he has one done. not quite sure if it is m-tdi tho.
      WTB: MK3, B3/4 TDI Donor Car. Rear end accident prefered.

      #aokshop

      How does your ego feel on the side of the road?

    35. Member 8v-of-fury's Avatar
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      09-05-2010 12:22 AM #35
      A1 you never cease to amaze thanks man.

      One question in there though that wasn't answered. The Alt bracket, will I need to source a non A/c one? or can I just cut and modify the one from the engine to take off the A/C compressor mounting area? Also what happens when I unbolt the coolant lines? I mean I know the coolant is going to come out, but will it come out like crazy? is it hazardous? what do i do? Never dealt with A/c systems.

      Mk1 rad and fan it is then. It shouldn't be too hard to use the mk3 bottle though and the included features.

      Yes I have read over Vdubspeed's and Funksoulkitty's threads several times and understand what needs to be done in terms of the hydro clutch setup. I only ask about the mk3 reservoir because it has the nipple on it for the clutch to take its fluid from. I guess fabbing up any little bottle that will hold some fluid for the clutch cylinder eh.

      I was unaware of the wiring being exactly the same between mk1/mk3 headlight switch and the rest. Nifty that they kept it the same eh? Sounds good to me!

      Tuesday/Wednesday will be the days I hopefully get all the wiring out of the car and start prepping for engine removal (axles, DP, etc junk)

      Oh also on a side note, this engine seems to have a little oil in the boost pipes, i think i will need to be installing a oil catch can and or possibly deleting the EGR system altogether.. as it will be going in an 81 that needs no emissions.

      Thanks guys!

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