Last edited by funnee84bunny; 09-06-2010 at 08:49 AM.
I dunno if it matters or not the Mr.Dave is swapping an ALH? possibly different setup?
Either way thank-you to both of you, I will most likely clearance that whole lip on the frame-rail anyway to make sure T-belts in the future aren't a hoe.
Also A1 I think the tails should be straight forward, make a little test to see what plug end wires do what on both, write it down and splice. Just so long as all the harder shhhtuff will match I'm set lol
I read in a thread about how some guy actually used the entire brake setup from the mk3 and swapped it all over, (pedal cluster, booster, MC the whole works) This is probably more than I need to do though I think.
I got the axles out lastnight and was planning on having the coolant out too but the axles took a little longer than expected.. so what can you do right? lol
i have read that the mk3 drums are a step up over the mk1 stuffs (200mm>180mm), and cross referencing ETKA shows the axle stubs for the two to be the same. So what it looks like to me is that one would only need to swap over the back plate and hardware.. yes?
Also how do you feel about mk3 seats in an mk1? gotta shorten the seat track.. but its doable. I already have mk2 seats in there.. worth the trouble to go to mk3 seats?
I had to show some mad love to my mk1&2 today, so I did not get ANYTHING done on the TDI
Mk1 needed a bunch of **** to pass a last minute Certification tomorrow and the mk2 needed brakes all around.. Took up my whole day. fook
I was gunna do the same swap and have decided it was not what I wanted. a 2.0aba16vt should be much more fun.
a local shop finetuning in Washington has done a lot of tdi swaps u can email them questions thru the site. the owner is building his own big turbo scirocco tdi as we speak 170hp ish ask for cris he's on here too so that's who is talk to
What is needed to be done to make the mk1 axles mate with the mk3 inner cv's exactly? I have read there is grinding needed, I have also read direct swap.. nothing definitive, whats the deal?
Last edited by 8v-of-fury; 09-12-2010 at 08:40 PM.
On using the rear brakes from the 98 on the 81.. It looks as though the back plate and actually brake hardware (shoes, springs, bearings) is all that is needed to make the swap, as the stub axle is the same part.
EGR deletion.. I pulled off the intake tube to have a look and the dreaded blackness is taking over my intake with a litle over %25 i'd say of blocakge.. How is this deleted.. almost looks likt one or two blocking plates on the back of the intake.. Confirmation?
thanks for reading
yeah, I only met him the day I gave him the car. Super cool cat. I think he ended up putting the tdi in a mk2 though...... he still made it look good in a mk1 though for a bit.
this was how we met
On the brakes, leave everything together on the backing plates.
Undo the eBrake cables (adjust them all the way out to create slack), and hyd brake lines.
Remove the backing plate assys and bolt them onto your 81.
Hook up the eBrake cables and hyd lines.
Repack the wheel bearings.
Bleed, and fine tune the eBrake adjustment.
The backing plates, drums, shoes, and about half the springs are dfrnt 180 vs 200.
The upside to 180 is new drums are only $8 each.
What is the ring&pinion - and the 5th - on your TDI 02a tranny ?
i just picked up a $600 98 jetta tdi toady.. i am going tdi-m with it as the current fuel pump = junk..
i even worked a deal for a landrover tdi pump... rumor is thats the pump to use.. now gotta reserch it and what i gotta do..
inital install will be into my rusty test bead winter beater 81 coupe.. then after i get it all sorted and such ill rotessery my 84 rust free coupe (and do a full rebuild of the tdi too).. and do it with the 98 style mounts and so on..
i plan to keep the 02a and hydro set up.. i also plan to keep the ac which is why i am using the 98 style mounting.. rattle free.. vs stock mk1 as ac weighs too much. and the good ac diesel motor mount is NLA.. .
i put a tdi into a 90 jetta back in 02 for someone.. this one is mine...
on your brake qustion.. the 98 is a 200mm set up.. you will need to rember this as pree 90 200mm are different then 98 ones.. the back plate is too.. gotta keep them matched up.. but yes they are bolt on... for the fronts.. you best off with a pair of caliper cariers from a audi 4000 quattro.. they are a direct fit.. bolt caliper to them and they fit right onto the mk1 hub/wheel bearing assembly.. no adapters, no screwing around making mk3 ones fit mk1 stuff..
egr = check engine light... gotta figure out the crack to keep it turned off.. another reason for tdi-m..
i plan to cut and mod my set up to eleminate it.. else euro intake manifold and block off on exhaust..
Last edited by crsmp5; 09-23-2010 at 12:00 AM.
get back to work...
I was thinking of the Drive By Wire setup, and some people have had success of using the entire pedal assembly from the mk3. I'll have to rip it to really get a good mind-grip on it.
OMG I CAN'T WAIT
do yourself a favor.. do the ce2.. splice in the lights/heater.... you will want to use the tdi wiprer/turn so you can use the cruise too.. actually.. a mk2 pre 88 cruise turn stalk will also work..
there is way more screw up ability trying to splice in the engine harness then lights/heater... lights/heater tend to share same color wires even i did ce2 into my 81 coupe.. took me like 4 hours to splice all the fusebox plugs into the original harness just do 1 harness at a time.. have bently diagrams..
next.. just did a 89 jetta ce2 meld with a 96 passat tdi and 98 jetta tdi harness... aka all ce2.. 1 issue you will find with it all is lack of wiring info on the check engine light.. its missing in the bently...
if you dewired the tdi properly and reuse all its wiring.. this will be non issue as again.. lights/heat simple..
Big night last night,
I got the engine pulled, clutch cylinder out, and the wiring harness and fuse-box out. All that is left is the Drive by wire module, shifter and cables, rear brakes.
However, I went a little gung-hoe in taking the wiring harness out of the car.. I disconnected almost all the fuse box before i thought to myself.. sh!ttt labels! likely though I thought to myself I am only keeping the engine side of the stuff.. so it shouldn't really be too complicated to get it all sorted out. The only inside car stuff I will be using is mounting the fuse box above the other one (A1steaksauce's method), the wiring up to the cluster, and the wiring to the ignition switch.
Also a quick question about the rest of the wiring in the harness, I am somewhat strapped for time, as this is being done in my driveway.. and winter is quickly approaching! lol motor in and at least able to be moved around would be good. If I simply just cut off the ends for the stuff I do not use.. (A/c stuff, heater stuff, airbag stuff, door lock stuff, headlight stuff, fan stuff, rear window defroster..) Will it throw any codes from the ECU? or does it mainly just manage engine related stuff on CEL basis? I would love to remove every wire i do not use.. But i feel it would be more set to my time limit to just hack off ends and leave them in the harness.. no?
If anyone has wiring diagrams for the 1998 Jetta TDI, I would greatly appreciate it!
I think the only other issue now is.. mounting the clutch cylinder, mounting shifter, and fabbing engine mounts.
thanks a bunch guys.
get a mk3 bentley. it shows in the bentley what each plug in the back of the fusebox is for. if you are doing the piggyback method, you only need the plugs for the engine harness, the 2 plugs/harnesses for the cluster/gauges, and the power/ground wires. Everything else you can trash. leave all of your stock body wiring in place on the mk1.
but really, with a swap like this, you need to stop and buy a bentley first and foremost.. some of these questions you are asking would be simply answered if you did a little reading first..
instrument cluster not so good to "wire in" i am serious when i say bently screwed the pooch on this.. it really lacks the info you seek.. i am serious..
rember i just went thru this this past weekend...
When I did my TDI swap, I mounted the shifter box from the top, to make it sit a little higher on the car,and only had to do minor trimming of the floor and the box to make a good fit. Then ran the cables through the auto trans shifter hole in the firewall. I had to make one hole right next to it for the second cable.
I used to have pics of how I solved the pedal scenario. I used a 96 tdi passat pedal, and since they use a separate potentiometer from the pedal, I mounted the PT to the firewall, and built a little box to hold it, and then removed the top of the pedal on the passat and welded it to the rabbit pedal. It has a slider adjustment on it to take up a little slack, and then just bent the pedal to suit my needs. I seem to remember that I grumbled about it while doing it, but it's worked fine for 4 years or so.
I used the whole mk3 wiring harness,fuse box, etc., and mounted the sensor for the interior fan wiring in the vent tube to the passenger side of the dash. Had to splice on a bunch of plugs, but the end result was a massive improvement to the brightness of all the lights on the exterior. IIRC, I ran a 90 cabby rear taillight harness, as it was a direct plug-in to the fuse box. You could use a mk2 CE2 harness as well. I do remember that the dash wiring was a pain to figure out from the bentley, but I went from MK3 to Mk1, if you used a mk2 dash and mk3 cluster, it would be pretty easy to mix/match harnesses and make it all factory.
I'll try and remember some of the other tricks I did when doing the swap.
Your internet stance club sucks.