Mk1 1Z/AHU M-TDI

[8v-of-fury]

Nothing at all has happened. Life put this on the far back burner.. Its sad but true.

However Christmas is rolling around and extra hours open up at work, thus meaning extra money to spend on stupid things such as cars. LOL

I think I have made up my mind... M-TDI w/cable clutched, cable shifted 02A. Turbo/injector upgrades in the future. For now I will need to purchase the bits to make the cable clutch work.. and some 16v axles.. and make myself a mechanical tdi pump, preferably from a 2.5 4cyl land-rover unit.

If anyone has seen som FS threads in their travels I need some mk1 16v axles and mk1 02a mounts.. It'd be greatly appreciated

I hope to gather parts over winter, and do this as soon as it gets warm next spring I'll daily my '67 Mercury when the Jetta goes under the knife

[8v-of-fury]

Hello vee-dub-ular people.

Life has yet taken another **** on me, laid off from work.. but, I have been able to claim EI. So I will have some time on my hands .

I have a good line on new mk1 100mm EMPI axles here in Canada, $95 a piece.

I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getri...ht_4266wt_1185

Does anyone have any leads on full kits to make the 02A cable clutched??

[deathhare.]

Most of the cable clutch parts are NLA new i believe.

[vdubjim]

Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion.
nothing-leaves-stock

[8v-of-fury]

Dude on vortex sells those, alittle cheaper after shipping and $$ conversion.
nothing-leaves-stock

Which? the cables? or the mounts? Hardly cheaper. $299 + shipping + border fees. $121 + $24 shipping from Deutschland. It would take like $50 from NLS to get them in to Canada i would think.

Has anyone seen any cable clutch bits up for sale lately?

[nothing-leaves-stock]

i have the mounts IN STOCK and i have one extra actuator brand new in stock.
then i here a mid 80's CRX cabe fits with minor mods.(i don't have one)
PM me if interested

thanks-josh

[Shaggy]

I think I will order these mounts; http://www.ebay.de/itm/Seilzug-Getri...ht_4266wt_1185

I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions.

Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again.

[vdubjim]

must be the canada thing the border fees?

120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.

[Shaggy]

I purchased these mounts a few months back. Had an issue with fitment of the rear trans mount right off the bat. Emailed them probably a month or so later to mention the issue and they had a replacement sent out the next day without any questions.

Haven't had a chance to run the car with them yet, but I'd buy from them again.

must be the canada thing the border fees?

120 usd after conversion, then im sure 40-60 eur shipping, euro conversion on that, So figure 200 + border fee, plus they are not a local guy to deal with when somethings wrong.

All said and done they were under $150 CDN shipped into Canada. Shipping was 18 euro as quoted on the ebay page.

As mentioned in the quote above I had an issue with the rear transmission mount immediately when I tried mounting it onto a freshly painted trans. The holes weren't aligning correctly and the mount was binding when trying to tighten it down flush against the case.

Messaged the seller around a month after purchase to let them know (using freetranslation to relay the message) and they had a new mount in the mail the next day with tracking via DHL, no questions asked.

Like I said, I'd deal with them all over again if I ever need to.

[crsmp5]

this is just a tease anyways... common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that...

[8v-of-fury]

this is just a tease anyways... common prove me wrong.. i wanna see you do that...

1 month and a little progress I have acquired over my few years as a dubber a few old diesel fuel pumps. Which I have torn down to the bare pump, cleaned, re-sealed, and sold them. Made a pretty penny on each that i got for next to nothing or on a trade for something i got for free. So 100% profit

Either way, with my now confident knowledge of dismantling pumps, I am starting to tackle building my m-tdi pump. It will be (to start with) a 1.6 TD pump off of an MF engine, and the innards will be replaced by most of the inner parts from the tdi pump I have. The pump will bolt the AHU block by that of the stock 1.6 diesel mount. I will use the 1.6 timing advance, governor setup, throttle setup and boost enrichment. It will be a barebones base line pump but it will have no issues producing the same 90hp/150tq that the TDI had when it was stock. I will be keeping the intercooler, upping the boost and fuel.. so i see 175 wheel torque as a non issue.

With the money I know have sitting in my paypal from the diesel pumps, I am starting to order necessary pieces Will be needing a clutch kit to mate it to my 020 transmission, and an 80% peloquin kit as well to keep power at both wheels. No more 1 tire fryer Among these parts I will also need a new waterpump.. I guess after 400,000km the shaft bearing gets a little play! lol.

Sorry to dissapoint the masses but it is no longer an 02A swap lol. Just the TDI swap.. which is now going to be M-TDI!

[8v-of-fury]

New parts are here!

210mm clutch kit -$140



Cast impeller Bosch Waterpump -$25



Some trans seals -$10






Going back to the spin on filter -$8



New motor mount -$8



I've also started the tear down of the TDI pump. Everything is the same inside, except for the throttle which is an interesting setup. Anyway it looks like everything will swap over very easily in to my 1.6 pump with no issue. I should be able to get that all done up and everything the day i pull my motor.. Hmm better yet, I think I will pull the pump off my motor a few days prior to the scheduled motor pulling and get the pump all built up and back on the TDI and running pre-swap.

[boardsnow6]

[8v-of-fury]

Her is a good question guys, I will be needing to setup the waste gate for manual operation and not to be told by the computer (that doesn't exist anymore).

The stock k03 turbo conveniently has two braided lines coming up from the turbo to make my life easy but I am new to turbochargers, and don't wanna screw it up eh lol.

So the two lines on the turbo are as follows. Seems one line comes directly from the cold side compressor housing, and the other comes from what i believe to be the waste gate. They both went to a controller and a third line went from there directly to the ECU on the AHU.. I have purchased a well known suppliers Manual Boost Controller;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250357884444...ht_3756wt_1185

There diagrams tell me it would be best to take my boost supply directly from the turbo housing to resist spiking. So it will go from there to the pumps LDA and from there.. it makes sense to be teed to the waste gate after the MBC. The pump will see the actual psi the turbo produces, and the waste gate will see whatever I tell it with the MBC correct.

[8v-of-fury]

Well she starts up and runs great even around 0c with no glow whatsoever.. So I must be somewhat close to a good setting. I don't hear any of the old diesel clatter that I did with the IDI either..

Pre M-TDI;



Post M-TDI;



Only picture I have from the actual swap.. there is a reason I got it done in 6 hours ok people! lol. I didn't frig around. ;D



Pretty much 96% finished in this next shot. Just to tidy the wiring up that was a mess from before anyway, add the manual boost controller, and get a boost gauge and SHES GOLDEN! Air filter will be getting a thin aluminum surround fabricated, to allow it to draw its air from down under the washer bottle. and not get road gunk from the belt on it.

ps. You know you love the ABS piping inter-cooler delete It works ok, and it cost me like $4.. This is an extreme budget build.




400 Liters of free fuel and I got the drums for free too. Paid $100 total with shipping for this air powered drum pump, something like 20 Liters per minute? it flows real quick through the nearly 1" outlet. This is my introduction to WMO .



Video of it purring away Love the turbo at idle .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeLP_...z5hOZJZJrP3ZuS

[8v-of-fury]

This is how I have my boost lines setup right now.. I think they're right?

Red is from the turbo housing, blue is to the waste gate. Correct or not?? So this should effectively now make the k03 waste gate open at whatever its stock setting is right.

When my boost gauge arrives, and i find the damn MBC i bought i'll be able to see whats going on.

[just-jean]

hope your thread finds a new home in the TDI forum

[8v-of-fury]

I have not updated this thread in forever amount of time!

Page 16-22 of my Vwdiesel.net thread. Way easier than rewriting all of the informationz.

I have since last updating here been through a few pump revisions. Custom hand built M-TDI pump out of a 1.9 AAZ 17mm case, with all of the AHU 10mm internals including the distributor head, and a 1.6TD lid and custom boost pin.

Dirtyass aaz pump;



1.9 TDI AHU internals;




Custom built internal throttle lever;




And the pump clearancing needed to run it;







Then came the candy coating ;






As a result of too much governor shimming (not the throttle the spinning governor weights) I had my pumps cam plate smashing against the governor assembly four times every cycle.. which sent metal through the pump;





BUT I only even found this out because I found this on my way home one day, which left me stranded..;





Got it all sorted out only to find out the metal pieces that my pump ate have taken out my pumps ability to produce proper internal pressures required for proper combustion.. 17psi fuel pressure at idle, when it should be 47-50psi. With this fuel pressure gauge I made. This was also running on thicker than diesel fuel, pure 2 stroke motor oil;




But heyy that is alright! SAY HELLO TO M-TDI v3.0 Not my video, but a Land Rover pump on a 1Z/AHU;





This is currently where I am at. I also have a set of .216 Veg Injection nozzles to go in, which are actually more like a .238 nozzle over the stock .184's . I have a T3 that may make its way on there at a later date, and I also have a CTN 02A TDI trans that needs to get inside my mk1 as well .

All in good time, after all. Up until the purchase of the injectors and LR discovery injection pump.. I had made profit to do this M-TDI swap . Suck on that.

[ToddA1]

I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.

Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.

-Todd

[8v-of-fury]

I realize that's not your video, but is that your pump? I recently pucked up a Rover pump.

Are you going the ALH hub and pulley approach? From what I understand, machining the pulley is onlly required if you're running the upper timing cover.

-Todd

I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect, from there I need to enlarge the hole in the mount for the snout of the pump. Needed done regardless unless you picked up a later 1.9 AAZ bracket that utilizes the twisting pulley as well. I have chosen to stick with the twisting pump style setup as opposed to the twisting pulley. I will either elongate the pumps holes to match the old style, or elongate the brackets holes.

Probably the pumps, being that its soft aluminum over the thick steel of the bracket. Ooh, that just made an idea spark in my head. What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.

[ToddA1]

I have actually chosen a not so traveled path, The 20mm Rover shaft with the hub removed has a key way that will allow use of my stock 20mm AHU pulley. This will make the offset perfect

What if I had the snout machined to fit the smaller hub spot.. would mean less downtime for the car too lol.

Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?

Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.

How much louder was your M-TDI compared to a standard E-TDI?

-Todd

[8v-of-fury]

Interesting.... that sounds too easy. Although I like the idea of turning the pulley to set timing, the AHU pulley should be much easier to find. Is the Rover keyway indexed properly for the AHU pulley?

Don't people say the mainshaft can snap due to the higher TDI spring tension? Personally, I'd leave the mainshaft alone.

How much louder was your M-TDI compared to a standard E-TDI?

-Todd

The rover key way is indexed slightly over, from the AHU's key way. Don't necessarily have to use a pump lock anyway.

I didn't mean machine the main shaft, the snout of the pump where it fits in the bracket. It is the smaller 17mm shafts that can't handle the higher twisting and pushing force required to move the 12mm head.

Well, my current Gold pump is acting weird and may have been the entire time.. as I had to time it to 2.10mm to get it to run right.. And right now I still have it timed up near 1.6-75mm So I cannot say as it is not necessarily combusting all to well without the proper advance curve. Also I am running just a down pipe for my exhaust, and the E-TDI was a full exhaust with cat and resonator.

It is slightly louder than my brothers 1.9AAZ, just a down pipe as well, and a k03 turbo the same. But I attest that to the advance being all off with my internal pressures being off the charts.

[8v-of-fury]

So the CandiPump has met its maker. She is really running rough, lots of cold start smoke, and pitiful performance. Pump is getting a full tear down tomorrow morning, and I will be building another M-TDI pump to get me by until my Rover pump gets here in the next few weeks. Yup N/A pump with a 10mm head and DI internals Who needs an LDA!?








Oil pressures fantastic though! Cold idle first, Hot idle second. 0w40 full synthetic. Taken from the head.






LOVE the HD capabilities of my phone!

[8v-of-fury]