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    VWVortex


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    Thread: OBD Codes P0202 P0302 P0300 P0304 C0000

    1. 08-09-2010 01:50 AM #1
      My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t with 105k miles has been misfiring randomly with codes P0202 P0302 P0300 P304 C0000 on the OBDII. The engine will run fine for 5 minutes then misfire for 20 minutes then run fine again for 2 minutes, then misfire again. The ignition coils were replaced, the spark plugs are fairly new, I just replaced the fuel filter and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank but that didn't seem to do much.

      I know the codes mean the following:
      P0202 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction
      P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
      P0300 Multiple Misfire
      P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
      C0000 Vehicle Speed Information Circuit Malfunction

      Anyone have any idea other than buying a new fuel injector. I'm getting a misfire on 4 but there no injector malfunction reported on that one so I'm not sure if it's the injector itself. I don't have any idea where the C0000 is coming into play.

    2. Member Tofik's Avatar
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      Bagged Galactic Blue Wolfsburg
      08-09-2010 02:21 AM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by aeson25 View Post
      My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t with 105k miles has been misfiring randomly with codes P0202 P0302 P0300 P304 C0000 on the OBDII. The engine will run fine for 5 minutes then misfire for 20 minutes then run fine again for 2 minutes, then misfire again. The ignition coils were replaced, the spark plugs are fairly new, I just replaced the fuel filter and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank but that didn't seem to do much.

      I know the codes mean the following:
      P0202 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction
      P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
      P0300 Multiple Misfire
      P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
      C0000 Vehicle Speed Information Circuit Malfunction

      Anyone have any idea other than buying a new fuel injector. I'm getting a misfire on 4 but there no injector malfunction reported on that one so I'm not sure if it's the injector itself. I don't have any idea where the C0000 is coming into play.
      switch the injectors around and coils around.. ie injector 2 to cyl 3.. to see if the problem follows the injector and or the coil.. then go from there
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    3. Junior Member 01JudyJetta's Avatar
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      2001 VW Jetta 1.8T
      08-09-2010 02:10 PM #3
      another thing you may want to try is cleaning the throttle body.

    4. 08-10-2010 04:43 PM #4
      I haven't gotten around to trying anything in depth yet, and probably won't until this weekend, but I just wanted to add a couple other things I've noticed on the car. When the car misfires my scangauge read that the car is staying in open fuel loop. After thinging about it I'm assuming this is just another symptom and not potentially part of the cause, but i thought I'd throw it out there anyways incase I'm missing something.

      I also wanted to note that the car ran fine for most of the 1hr ride home yesterday with only 2 occasions where it continually misfired for 2-3 minutes. This is opposed to the previous day that was just the opposite.

      I'm mentioning this just to try to hone in on the problem. I want to try all the quick checks first before moving onto something like switching the injectors around which, from what I understand, involves removing a lot of other things first on the Jetta 1.8t to get the injectors out and requires new o-rings for every time the injector is removed.

    5. 10-12-2010 11:19 PM #5
      2004 VW GTi 1.8
      I started my car one day and while driving down the road, under load the car felt as if it was mis-firing. I have a cheap vag-com like device and it coded P0304. Switched spark plugs and coil packs around. then drove and had same mis-firing issues. ran code and got P0304 P0300 P0302. Switched pack coil caps and drove. Then i got a P0304. Went the the store, bought 4plugs and one coil cap. Changed out cyl 4 coil cap and plugs and then drove. Ran fine for 20secs then sputtered. Ran code to get all three P's again. I did reset the code each time, unplugging the battery. I'm almost positive that it isn't the injectors. I've did a pretty good check of the hoses, thinking it might be a vacuum hose. Checked the mass flow sensor and it looked fine. The only other thing i am thinking is it might be the coil pack harness.

      Anyone have suggestion or thoughts on what it might be?

    6. Member i am the volkswagoneer's Avatar
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      Rhd stupid ass mk4, bagged e30
      10-13-2010 08:34 PM #6
      iv been messing with this issue for several months and noone can help, under heavy acceleration it stutters midway through the gear than smooths out
      i pulled random misfire codes
      and misfire in cylinder one
      i replaced the spark plugs and checked my ignition coils, a few days later my alternator died.Heres where it gets interesting....... i replaced my alternator and the problem just dissapeared for about a week or two than slowly phased its way bac in and now my check engine light hasnt come back on, but will soon and im studdering threw all my gears under deep acceleration. PLEASE HELP!

      edit:2000 jetta 1.8t
      Last edited by i am the volkswagoneer; 10-13-2010 at 08:35 PM. Reason: car model

    7. 02-29-2012 01:48 PM #7
      OK here is my info. 2004 VW Jetta 1.8t runs fine until engine gets to full temp then when you stop at light it runs very rough at idle and it sometimes gets violent. I have changed plugs, O2 sensor, fuel filter. I then ran the codes and get PO300, PO301, PO302,PO303. So I think its a vacuum leak so i spray with carb cleaner and find out the upper Y hose is cracked. Ordered it and replaced it now it even seems worse. I took to a mechanic and he ran the codes and got the same thing and said he would start by replacing the coil packs. Since Cylinder 4 was not misfiring I switched it with number one and cleared the codes and drove again and this time got codes PO300, PO301, PO303. So i am guessing the coils are ok. I have been reading on this forum for weeks with many people with the same issues and there never seems to be an answer. I kept reading and then found where someone said to check the oil cap and see if I could pull it off when running and it was stuck for sure and when you pull out the dipstick while running it killed the engine. So I am thinking now that the plastic T which is like the PCV valve is clogged and causing an extreme vacuum instead of the leak. Now the new upper Y hose I replaced sucks closed I noticed so I now think that is why it cracked due to the constant flexing. My feeling is that the extreme vacuum after the engine gets warm causes a leak at a spot that would normally not leak. I have ordered the T piece because there is not a dealership close by and the regular auto parts store looked at me as if I had a horn coming out of the middle of my head when I asked if they could help. I know most of these post are old but they have many views and I was probably half of them over the last few weeks. Hopefully someone has an opion as to if this is possible.

    8. Member fancyTHIS's Avatar
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      2004.5 GLI
      02-29-2012 02:11 PM #8
      Check your fuel pump relay.

    9. 03-09-2012 02:05 PM #9
      Wanted to let everyone know that I finally got my parts and put them on and FINALLY my problem is fixed after months of guessing and reading and trying everything I could think of I fixed. Let me recap. 2004 Jetta 1.8t that first started having a rough idle and getting misfire codes. Tried plugs, new O2 sensor, and fuel filter. That did nothing so kept reading and found that it sounded like a vacuum leak. Found one right on top on the upper Y hose replaced it and it got worse. Read somewhere to check the oil cap to see if it was stuck and sure enough it was. That led me to the PCV valve or the plastic T that acts as one, Someone also suggested the Suction pump so I ordered it figured it would be better to do them both at once while I was in there. Went out this morning and replaced the PCV and then pulled out the pump and there it was in pieces it had broken on two and the thing that really makes me mad is that whoever owned this before me had tried to glue it back together and had a hose clamp around it. Replaced it and wow what a difference runs better, brakes better, and I am able to pull the oil cap off now without prying it off with a screwdriver and it also runs with it off which it would not do before. So if anyone has this problem and I know there are a bunch. It might not be your fix but it is a good place to start. Bought both pieces off of Ebay and it was about $50 for both which for peace of mind is well worth it. Make sure you have plenty of hose clamps to replace the one time use ones and also have a variety of sizes. I also found it nice to have some extra hose available I had to cut one piece off and having that extra sure did come in handy, One last thing if anyone that reads this every meets the engineer that designed this vacuum system for the 1.8t engine please punch them right in the mouth for me PLEASE.

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