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    Thread: 8v Build~84 Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop top

    1. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      1984 VW Rabbit Convertible Wolfsburg Edition
      09-08-2010 02:55 AM #71
      I just had to check the progress of the engine block, see if some of the grime has come off.
      Wow! The results are truly phenomenal!
      A bit of a light wire brush on the outside to remove any last trace of rust, and this block will be going back into the bath, where it will sit for just a little longer.
      Then, a degreasing formula, then on to primer!

      The oil pan was put in as well, it was very solid, but crusty.
      It did not look at all salvageable, in very rough shape, but the bath revealed a very pristine workable component!
      Baked-in oil contaminants were loosened to the point they could be lightly wiped away!


      Parts list is being compiled, micrometer measurements will tell the tale.
      Looks good so far....
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-08-2010 at 03:00 AM.

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      09-08-2010 11:28 AM #72
      For more parts leads, your 1984 Rabbit looks to be identical under the hood to my 1987 Scirocco. Same intake manifold and solid lifter head exactly. You could just order an alternator for a Scirocco with air conditioning -90A. Idle speed is controlled by that solenoid bolted to the strut tower and relay #1, which I have had to replace. Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up.

      On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?

      I too was wondering about checking the oil pump since mine has even more miles on it than your Rabbit. Adjusting the valves, after far too many miles, reduced oil burning.

      1984 Audi 4000 1.8L is same setup as a 1989 Fox. The intake manifolds do look different than what have. Audi one is closer to a cylinder. Aux air regulator is on other end below throttle. CSV sticks out at odd angle , fine for a Fox, but on Rabbit or Scirocco is pointed at firewall. Here is a link about modifying the manifold to put the CSV at the far end: http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html

      I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.

    3. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      1984 VW Rabbit Convertible Wolfsburg Edition
      09-08-2010 01:05 PM #73
      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up.
      I have not looked inside yet, I have had weird fuel issues since I started the car.
      Probably some water in there somewhere.
      I did, however, purchase a new in tank pump with screen, and a new main pump.
      Depending on some financial factors, I may purchase new fuel lines all the way back.
      Depends on how extensive the engine parts become.
      The tank will be pulled out and cleaned, then re installed.
      Not sure how to do it other than pulling it out of the car.
      Anyone think that is excessive? Have you seen my gray fuel?

      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?
      Do you mean the differential that is mounted to the transmission, where the drive axles mount?
      I could not believe the driver side axle was as short as it is. The GTI diff seems to be solid.
      The diff in the convertible will be inspected when it comes out, I suspect the GTI is in better shape.
      (Based on mileage).
      I will be installing a Wavetrac Differential a couple of months later, when the funding is there.
      Not sure if it will come with the output seals and drive flanges.

      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.
      After careful inspection of the intake manifold from the GTI, I have decided to port the runners and plenum myself. I kept trying to figure out how people would port the runners after they curve.
      It turns out only about 5 or 6 inches need be ported on the runners, then it opens up inside, where it enters the plenum. I am going to try to do it, and if I screw it up then I will buy one.
      I would love to see some pics of the one you have.
      It is just like the Fox manifold from the link you posted? Is it shiny? Is it cracked? More info!
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-08-2010 at 01:24 PM.

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      09-08-2010 05:50 PM #74
      Here is what Audi 4000S manifold looks installed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jgturk/2827182764/
      Mine is a bit corroded on outside and usual carbon on inside. It just needs cleaning. Where would a stock intake manifold crack?
      I would first have to replace the entire exhaust from the head to the muffler before it makes sense to install it on my car. Thanks for the pictures by the way.

    5. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-09-2010 02:57 AM #75
      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      Where would a stock intake manifold crack?
      Usually on the underside above the exhaust manifold, where heat and stress take their toll.
      Quite often near a bolt, allowing unmetered air into the system, causing CIS problems.
      There are a few people on this site this has happened to.
      Header manufacturers discourage header wrap, it makes it too hot.
      The heat of the exhaust manifold radiates in the engine bay, and the intake manifold ( made of aluminum) is directly above it.
      I might take an old amplifier carcass to make a heatsink, in between.
      They are made of aluminum, and have cooling sinks on them, and would still allow air movement.
      I wonder if it would help or hinder...

      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      Thanks for the pictures by the way.
      I know I'm having fun!
      I wish this info was here to see when I was looking around for how to build my car up.
      I hope what I am doing will help the next VW freak!
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-09-2010 at 03:03 AM.

    6. Member ps2375's Avatar
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      09-09-2010 11:26 AM #76
      A reason header wrap is not recommended, is due to corrosion. If the metal is not coated, and it gets wet/damp, it will corrode much faster. Thus a good hi-temp ceramic coating works well and will protect the metal from corrosion if it is wrapped.
      Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

    7. Member teknikALLEN's Avatar
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      09-09-2010 11:43 AM #77
      Quote Originally Posted by Rabbitissimo View Post
      After careful inspection of the intake manifold from the GTI, I have decided to port the runners and plenum myself. I kept trying to figure out how people would port the runners after they curve.
      It turns out only about 5 or 6 inches need be ported on the runners, then it opens up inside, where it enters the plenum. I am going to try to do it, and if I screw it up then I will buy one.
      Check out ny_fam here on the Vortex or his web site Scientific Rabbit.. He did some tests and found the shorter the intake the better. Mk1 intake is the shortest.... I believe he actually adds material at the bends before porting.

    8. Member teknikALLEN's Avatar
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      09-09-2010 11:53 AM #78
      I would also not do a header... a cast dual outlet exhaust manifold does wonders to spread the heat around. TT has a dual down pipe that works with a Mk3/Mk4 exhaust manifold. It is expensive and you need a short shift kit (comes with the pipe). It only comes in stainless, but allows a bolt up to a cat back system.
      I actually use an old out of production 2" TT dual down pipe which is bolted up to an early US Mk1/diesel exhaust manifold that works quite well. I may have a SS one copied.

    9. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-10-2010 02:51 AM #79
      If I do not use a header I will miss out on the 5th cycle!

    10. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-10-2010 03:14 AM #80
      So I have been ripping out anything in good condition.
      I will be selling the dash and trim, it is in very good shape.
      (I know this is hard to believe, looking at this pic) but it is true.
      Here is what a 1983 GTI looks like without the dash.


      The pistons were cleaned up, and measured well.
      I could install new piston rings in them and use them again, if I wanted to.
      The block will be honed tomorrow, if the new hone arrives.
      The one available is way too big for this little 4 cylinder.



      I spent many hours today trying to remove the engine mount left on the transmission.

      The bolt was seized, and would not let go.
      All I wanted was to remove the mount safely so I could press out the motor mount.
      Maybe even clean and paint it.
      It took heat, strength, industrial strength penetrating liquid and the impact wrench to budge it.
      And a lot of patience.
      It finally came free. These bolts could not be used again.
      A source for bolts: In Canada: http://www.oemhardware.ca/catalog.htm
      In America: http://www.boltdepot.com/socket-products.aspx

      This is one dirty FK.

      This too shall pass...
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 11-29-2010 at 04:11 PM.

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      09-11-2010 02:57 PM #81
      My favorite oddball possible problem with MK2 VW: Notice the green grease seal in the drive flange. It can come loose if the flange wobbles too much on the output shaft splines. The seal is right up against the output shaft is why. OIL will actually seep through a deliberately created open slot in the splines of the output shaft/drive flange and then past the loose seal. The resulting liquid mix of oil and moly grease can actually rupture the CV joint boot. Ridiculous. VW changed to a force fit drive flange which I believe is incompatible.
      Last edited by MacGruber; 09-13-2010 at 01:47 PM.

    12. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-23-2010 02:56 AM #82
      (MK1... or, alternately A1, whichever you choose...)
      So there has been parts arriving in a steady stream...
      All the while work goes on.
      I have taken time to disassemble the head with great care to arrange all parts in the order they come out.
      If anything is in great shape, it will likely still work.
      The solid shim under bucket lifters are like new, and fit properly.
      I may need to change the shims, likely.

      After a lot of time and effort...Something to work with.

      Same thing for the valves and springs...
      That is the metal housing for the shifter, all cleaned up and ready for paint.
      That was gnarly. I wish I had a before shot...

      The face of the GTI looks 26 years younger.
      I love the way it came out.
      I can barely wait to build this back up! I still have to paint...

      There is still work to be done, and the flat surfaces will be resurfaced, just barely.
      A little difficult to see, but there is some porting.
      There will likely be a 3 angle valve job if that is truly my destiny.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-23-2010 at 03:21 AM.

    13. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-23-2010 03:41 AM #83
      This is the best part of all...
      I had faith that the Cylinder Head was going to be flat and true.
      I somehow believed Aluminum, being less likely to rust, would survive living in a field.
      I remember the first time I came to see the GTI sitting down there.
      I took one look at it and said to myself, "What a piece of junk. No one would ever want it."
      I was reading a lot, and there was a lot of good qualities in that particular engine and tranny.
      Then, I was talking one day with my cuz, who builds engines.
      He said the rust is almost always only on the surface of quality castings, like old Chevy blocks.
      Or, this vintage of VW watercooled. Should be in good shape under all of that oil and rust.
      These old blocks are also seasoned, and will ultimately produce more power than a new block.
      I took the chance, very skeptical. He was right.


      The small hone had arrived, and there is a nice cross hatch on the smooth walls.
      Special thanks to this master mechanic helping the job along.
      Just waiting for bearings and gaskets!
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-23-2010 at 03:46 AM.

    14. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      09-23-2010 03:56 AM #84
      The intake manifold is being ground to accept the larger throttle body.
      A little port work with carbide on aluminum goes quickly.

      The gasket that came with the larger TB serves as a template for deciding what to remove.
      The manifold will come clean. Hopefully I don't have to put the head in a vise.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 09-23-2010 at 05:07 AM.

    15. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 02:12 AM #85
      FINALLY!

      The Bentley has arrived!
      I got more info in a half hour reading this book than I could obtain in all my internet searching.
      There is lots of misinformation out there in Internetland.
      I still think the Bentley has a few errors...

      But aside from a couple of misleading statements, this book is incredibly informative.
      That green on red is psychedelic...
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-04-2010 at 02:57 AM.

    16. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 03:13 AM #86
      I have made a decision on how to proceed with this build.
      The head is being ported according to an article by David Vizard.





      Special thanks to Jettaboy1884 for posting this on a thread here in VWVortex.
      The Three angle valve job and radiusing will be employed.
      According to the article, the Intake port on the head will suffer if polished, so it will be left rough.
      As far as I can tell, it suggests to polish the exhaust, to expel the gases quickly.
      For now, I will only be replacing a few parts inside the head.
      A Valve kit is something I could install just by removing the valve cover.
      I have brand new valve guides, valve stem seals, injector holders and gaskets for the head.
      I almost ruined this head when one of the injector holders got stripped on the way out.
      I had to use a cold chisel to carefully remove it, chunk by chunk.
      The valves will be back cut, but otherwise are not very worn.
      I will likely go with OEM valves if I do buy new later, but mine are in great shape for now.
      I am aware small stem valves and guides exist (7mm), will increase flow, but I cannot justify it now.
      After the car is running smoothly, I will look at that option.
      Most likely scenario? I will do that to the head in the Cabby.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-04-2010 at 01:25 PM.

    17. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 03:55 AM #87
      Some of the essential parts have arrived!
      For the main and rod bearings, I really wanted to find KSKolbenschmidt, original supplier to VW.
      I found them!


      Even after reading the Bentley Manual, there was no real explanation on resistor and non resistor plugs or wires. As far as I can tell by searching, you use resistor plugs (WR7DC) with non resistor wires, OR non resistor plugs (W7DC) with resistor wires. The whole ignition system cannot exceed something like 13,000 ohms resistance. Then there is heat range, (W8DC), etc. etc... for upgraded/boosted cars. Even platinum, instead of copper (WR7DP), four prong platinum (WR7DP+). The old school guys say Bosch single copper is best. No foul. Problem is, the German ones are long gone. China is stepping up to make non resistor Bosch plugs again.
      Please, if anyone knows more about this, or has correct info, I will edit this post.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-04-2010 at 04:03 AM.

    18. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 04:14 AM #88
      Since my warm up period was long and erratic, and the fuel system on the GTI was not much better than the Convertible, I decided to replace some essentials. Lambda O2 sensor is still coming...

      According to the Bentley manual, the Fuel Distributor control plunger (meter) cannot be replaced due to each being precision fit to its housing. It can, however, be cleaned.
      http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/t...irflow-sensor/
      The Bentley has a section on adjusting system pressure. (Fuel).
      If the (fuel) system pressure is not between 4.70 and 5.40 bar (68 and 78 psi), it can be adjusted with shims. If it cannot be adjusted, you have to replace the fuel distributor.
      The Fuel Distributor is $1280, obsolete and cannot be obtained. There are aftermarket options that cost $550 or more, original rebuilt for $480 but you need a core.
      That is why I bought a replacement Pressure Relief Valve for $50. Bosch NOS. German.
      It is the primary control pressure regulator. The WUR is the secondary.

      Now that the Bentley is here, I know how to isolate an electrical fault to a particular fuse.
      That is worth the price of the book in itself.
      I will be able to track down which fuse hides the power leak, then troubleshoot just that circuit.
      I will take some photos of how this is done when I find the leak.
      It is not simple; the electrical diagrams are like reading Pyramid walls!
      Now, what does the bird sitting on a wavy snake mean again?.....
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-04-2010 at 05:05 AM.

    19. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 05:49 AM #89
      Lots of the metal housings are being sandblasted and refreshed and painted.


      This is definitely a lot of work but how tacky would it be if I just left these rusty?
      You can see how pitted the belt cover was, it was stripped to bare metal, and the rust was really aggressive on this particular surface.
      Recognize the shift housing? It was bare bones not long ago.
      Rust is the enemy. Fight to win!
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-04-2010 at 05:52 AM.

    20. 10-04-2010 07:51 AM #90
      Just an FYI from what I found is that the techniques used to port the 1.6 head is a little different than porting a 1.8 head.
      Last edited by ny_fam; 10-04-2010 at 07:55 AM.

    21. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 01:20 PM #91
      Quote Originally Posted by ny_fam View Post
      Just an FYI from what I found is that the techniques used to port the 1.6 head is a little different than porting a 1.8 head.
      Anything you would do differently?
      Would you share that type of information, or is it an industry secret?
      Are the valve angles the same?
      Obviously the seat sizes do not make sense for a 1.8 as shown from the article.
      Essentially, the principles are the same.
      Or are they?
      Have there been any books published relating to the JH engine and performance?
      It should not be this difficult to find info on a 28 year old engine.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-08-2010 at 01:44 AM.

    22. Member Brunke_Stunkelmyer's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 06:02 PM #92
      Quote Originally Posted by Rabbitissimo View Post
      Anything you would do differently?
      Would you share that type of information, or is it an industry secret?
      Are the valve angles the same?
      Obviously the seat sizes do not make sense for a 1.8 as shown from the article.
      Essentially, the principles are the same.
      Or are they?
      Have there been any books published relating to the JH engine and performance?
      It should not be this difficult to find info on a 26 year old engine.
      There was a guy whom was building a JH for a sprint car ( I think he was out of germnay, he sounded old school), he had a pretty good idea of what he was going to do for machine work.
      For the love of me I cant remeber what the thread was called.
      Minimalism.

      "OEM as f*ck"

    23. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-05-2010 02:07 AM #93
      The casting flash left in the block from its creation was sharp and can promote failure of the block.
      Aside from that, this was very finely machined block.
      I took the time to grind it smooth and blend it in with the general shape of the curves.
      The machinist here told me the metal is much stronger than the American blocks he works on.
      It took a long time to grind, and as it was my first time, I was just making sure my hand did not slip.
      One nick in the wrong spot and game over.
      I suspect these blocks were heat-oil treated by Germany.

      There was a very rough patch right next to the oil pump seat, I just smoothed it out.
      These arrows indicate the spots that were blended.


      There is a strange bump of metal indicated by the?
      I am just going to leave that alone. Was it welded? Part of the process of creation?
      Maybe it is structural...

    24. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-05-2010 02:27 AM #94
      More parts arrived!
      I did not know what gasket kit to buy. tt sells a great gasket kit for $140. Very tempting.
      It was in the budget to buy the Techtonics set, it has every (German) seal for the engine.
      I decided that I would go with these instead.
      I still had enough left over to buy a Bosch Auxiliary Air valve.

      I do have some excellent seals I can substitute for ones I do not like in this kit.
      I need mostly just the O rings and Head Gasket.
      I'm sure they will hold.

      There is not a single store within 300 miles that carries the vacuum line I need.
      I could not find it in any online store, except one. I needed nothing else from them.
      So, I got it through the buyers group the Machinist uses.
      Turns out Mercedes still has them! I thought I was getting hose and line, but it was all vacuum line.

      I have already found the vacuum hose anyway. I will likely have extra.

      Even though a lot has shown up, there is still more to come.
      I have dealt with a lot of different companies, a couple have been exceptional.
      No one seems to have all the things you need. I am spending the most on OEM Bosch parts.
      Even those are a good deal, but good luck finding them.
      Border crossing fees are ridiculously expensive. WOW!
      A reliable car? Priceless....

      Lots to do tomorrow......
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-05-2010 at 03:10 AM.

    25. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-05-2010 11:42 AM #95
      I spent most of my time yesterday cleaning the pistons.
      They were soaked in solution then washed clean.
      The piston ring grooves still had lots of grime in them that would interfere with a proper seat.
      The (oil?) holes in the pistons were all so plugged that I could not push the gunk through.
      I ended up using a tiny drill bit to drill the gunk out.
      Most came out in logs, still holding the shape of the passage.
      I completely disassembled the pistons and rods, removed the old bolts, and cleaned the sticky varnish.
      All the while taking note of original assembly position.
      I am confident they will work great when re-assembled.
      The connecting rods are forged. Strong as the day they were made.
      I am taking the time to do things properly now so I can enjoy the silky smoothness later.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-08-2010 at 01:50 AM.

    26. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-06-2010 02:36 AM #96
      Work continues on the block and head, lots to do.
      A wire brush cleans up the surfaces of the sides of the block where the crankshaft plate mounts.
      There is great difficulty in finding the hollow pins that are pressed into the sides.
      Without them removed, a stone cannot flatten the surface.
      Since I cannot find them, a wire brush will do.


      The motor brackets were cleaned recently, and today they were sandblasted.
      Cannot have engine grease in the blasting cabinet.
      Peering into the cabinet through the glass with my hands inserted into the long attached gloves felt strange, must be what the Doctor feels like helping bubble boy.
      They were stripped and ready for paint.



      This motor mount was a bit frustrating today.
      The old mount insert in it had a rusty metal sleeve with a rubber middle.
      There was not enough of a lip on it to press it out, so I had to do it the hard way.
      I used screwdrivers and chisels and pounded the inside edge back, to try to remove the sleeve.
      It took what seems like forever. I got it out.
      Getting the new mount in will be easy with the hydraulic press, there is enough support pushing in.


      When I got back today, I discovered the bushings had arrived!


      The mounting brackets that will hold them turned out great.


      I want to proceed with the valve job in the morning, but I really need to know what exactly I need to do in what dimension. I wish Vizard's article was for this exact head.
      I will be sending out the Convertible head for a proper cnc port and new valve kit, this one I just want to tweak and get running.
      I will probably be searching for a JH porting thread all night.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-06-2010 at 02:59 AM.

    27. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-06-2010 03:08 AM #97
      Quote Originally Posted by Brunke_Stunkelmyer View Post
      There was a guy whom was building a JH for a sprint car ( I think he was out of germnay, he sounded old school), he had a pretty good idea of what he was going to do for machine work.
      For the love of me I cant remeber what the thread was called.
      I wish for your memory of this thread to reappear! Then let me know!....
      I am on the verge of proceeding without caution!
      I just need to know the valve job angles, backcut slope and exact dimensions to make it right.
      A person needs special tools to do this, anyone willing to share data? Not every Joe has a valve seat grinder at their disposal. Help save a German head from being destroyed!
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-08-2010 at 01:53 AM.

    28. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-08-2010 02:04 AM #98
      This has been my view lately...

      Just getting everything prepped for the build, I have been waiting for the connecting rod nuts to arrive.
      Since I have the time while the parts are in transit, it is good to refresh some rusty old metal.
      I still cannot believe how effective this process is at renewing metal.
      The distributor gaskets were really cheap, heavily discounted, and they only had 6 so I got 'em all.
      I know I will be pulling that thing out for tweaking.

      Tomorrow I will be washing the block with hot soapy water and cleaning the passages.
      A long stem wire brush will scrub deep inside the passages. High pressure air will blast it out.
      I am surprised how plugged up an engine can get.

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      10-09-2010 03:53 PM #99
      More on your fuel system: the plastic fuel reservoir/mixer is directly above the fuel pump - on my 1987 anyways. This has a full length screen built into it. Could clean or replace it.

      About the standard plug wires: The wire itself has nearly no resistance, so the total R is:
      1,000 built into the distributor rotor and then the plug wire ends (5,000 + 1,000). Sum=7,000 ohms
      Another oddball VW repair story: The chain stores will sell you a rotor with ZERO resistance. They look identical. I was stuck on an exit ramp off of I-255 with a completely vaporized distributor rotor! All but the cylindrical part of it turned to dust.
      The Bosch platinum+4 plugs work fine and last years. I just brush off the deposits is all.

      The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all. The wiring diagram has the CIS controls all over the 9 pages. The 1985 Bentley manual has the complete fuel system done on pages 1, 2. However, to save $$, many photos and rebuilding sections are gone. I have a PDF of it - $5 on ebay, then it cost me $25 to print it out.

      Valve cover gasket - can buy a one piece rubber version. Worth the $$ to avoid an unseen oil leak dripping down (inside the timing covers) onto a spinning axle and attacking all rubber parts behind engine. I am using one from a 1996 2.0L but with the stud rings removed.

      The valve job: "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60 deg angle into the port, and as in Bentley, 45/30 angles and specified seat widths. 1985 Bentley shows the 60 deg cut, with no dimensions.
      Last edited by MacGruber; 10-09-2010 at 10:13 PM.

    30. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 10:09 PM #100
      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all.
      I know! and yet when I went to inspect the fuel level sender it had the plug and two tubes on the top.
      Exactly like the one I saw online doing an in tank pump repair.
      I am waiting for clamps and hose before I go in there.
      My car was made in May 1984 in Germany for the Canadian market. It is a little different.
      It was right on the cusp of the change from Rabbit Convertible to Cabriolet.

      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      How to do the valve job: Greg Raven - "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60/45/30 angles and that seat width is critical: 2.0 mm intake & 2.4 mm exhaust.
      Thanks a million; I have noticed that book round the way.
      I almost bought it 3 times but a rare part always won precedence.
      Is there a way for you to add a pic of the diagram of valve and seat angles?
      The machinist that is helping me has the valve and seat grinders here.
      All he needs is the degrees and seat width.
      Searched the forums and not much came up for this specific head.
      He has blueprinted many many engines (never VW) and has a trained eye.
      All of his suggestions were very close to what the Vizard article was suggesting.
      This GTI head has 40mm intake valves, and 33mm exhaust valves.
      I will be back-cutting the valves, there is a ridge on them.
      I am going to be very light with my porting on this head, so it can be done properly later.
      Just smooth bumps out, blend, and remove any protrusions.
      I want to get the engine built up and running, and send the Cabby head out to the Pros.
      The heads are easy to swap out anytime.

    31. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 11:33 PM #101
      Spent more time today on the intake manifold, mainly trying to remove the carbon and grease.
      Lots of scrubbing and pressure washing was required.
      Now that it is clean enough, it can be shot with glass bead to refresh the outside surfaces.


      Couple more necessities are here, I still haven't broken the $2000 mark for the entire project!
      Including a couple more shipments still on the way.
      (Not including my arrangement for the used GTI motor and Transaxle).


      The alternator is for some 89 VW models, 90 amps. Remanufactured in Germany.
      The mounting bracket from the GTI motor fits!
      The connectors are different, this one can accept huge wire, spade terminal.
      The old alternator was 65 amp, and was not charging well.
      The wires were small, with special plugs.
      I also have new blue exciter wire to run to the dash.
      That tells the alternator to charge the battery.
      Hopefully I will not have an alignment issue with the belt. I can get an adapter if need be.
      Last edited by Rabbitissimo; 10-09-2010 at 11:52 PM.

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      10-11-2010 12:37 AM #102
      Here is some info on 3-angle valve job for JH engine:
      1. Bentley has the seat specs on last page of chapter 5.
      2. 1985 manual:

      3. 1987 H2O cooled Performance book:

      4.. Decent diagram amongst idiocy at http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4836064.

      Someone else is building a supercharged 1.8L G60 with Eurospec JH head:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3833508
      I thought interesting - the GTI 8v head was in the supercharged Corrado.
      Last edited by MacGruber; 10-11-2010 at 08:52 PM. Reason: 3rd attempt at legible text

    33. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-11-2010 01:21 AM #103
      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      Here is some info on 3-angle valve job for JH engine:
      1. Bentley has the seat specs on last page of chapter 5.
      2. 1985 manual:

      3. 1987 H2O cooled Performance book:

      4.. Decent diagram amongst idiocy at http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4836064.
      Someone else is building a supercharged 1.8L G60 with Eurospec JH head:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3833508
      I thought interesting - the GTI 8v head was in the supercharged Corrado.
      Thanks MacGruber!
      These days I have almost no time to find the info I need.
      That really helps me a lot! That G60 build is crazy!
      Most important, though, was the diagram you linked.
      Been searching till my eyes were sore, couldn't find it.
      May riches be heaped upon the name MacGruber!

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      10-11-2010 11:09 PM #104
      Correction: the linked post is for someone assembling a G60 8-valve supercharged engine using a non G60 non standard solid-lifter JH head. Way to go.

    35. Member Rabbitissimo's Avatar
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      10-12-2010 04:45 AM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by MacGruber View Post
      Correction: the linked post is for someone assembling a G60 8-valve supercharged engine using a non G60 non standard solid-lifter JH head. Way to go.
      Still a great link to an interesting build!
      No harm no foul

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