I don't know how much bolt seat thickness you have to work with, so I'm just going to say that this is a terrible idea.
Is it possible to pull a wheel in toward the car by having some aluminum shaved off the hub of the wheel? It seems this would effectively change the offset, as long as it clears suspension components when the barrel is brought closer to them.
What are your opinions on what is an acceptable amount of material, if any, that can be removed without destroying integrity/strength of the wheel?
Well, wheels come in varying offsets, so i don't see why this would be a problem provided that the wheel has enough material leftover.
It's just something that would need to be done very carefully. I have been thinking about doing this to my wheels as well. Let us know what you find out.
All depends on the wheel manufacturer. A while back I was interested in a set of MOMO wheels that came in my bolt pattern but incorrect offset. The distributor had been dealing w/Momo for years an called his contact @ MOMO NA and was told that 5MM could be shaved w/out any loss in wheel strength. Nowadays though, due to legal liabilities, I doubt many Wheel manufacturers that would admit to any kind of wheel alterations even if there were tolerances.
see, here's the thing... it's split in opinions either way
I'll ask the few machining shops around here, but they may or may not have as much info collectively as TCL.
I would think that a machinist with experience would be able to eyeball it and judge how much material is left, if the material will be degraded by the process, etc
We did this wheel a few years ago.
The rear is 20 x 11.5 ET46. At the same time we also had another Gallardo wheel coming online and it was spec'd at 20 x 11.5 ET48. I wanted to keep the specs the same so we changed the offset from ET46 to ET48. That 2mm reduction in offset totally killed the integrity of the wheel and it failed to meet load requirements in testing. I don't know what type of wheel you're working with (cast, forged, one piece, multi-piece, etc etc), but it can be a really bad idea. Is that the case every time? No, but I wouldn't take the risk.
The offset is probably ground down at the wheel factory anyway, if you needed another few mm it might not be a problem.
Finding a shop that would do it without screwing up your wheels is another story. Also a wheel would be very difficult to put in a conventional milling machine, lathe or grinder... They probably use a rather custom piece of cutting equipment at a wheel manufacturer.
Leave it alone, or buy wheels that fit FTW.
I say this is a terrible idea... I know there is a safety factor built into every design but I wouldn t try to push it on a chassis part such as a wheel center
it surely can and has been done by as much as a quarter inch (no joke) by some some autocrossers I know in Stock Class solo events but those guys have tons of money and probably don t DD those rollers
your mileage WILL vary
Dazzle Surprise - Team My Little PonyOriginally Posted by Das Borgen
did this to an old set of enkeis to bring the offset to where we needed it.
there was tons of material left with the wheel we had to work with, and we never had an issue otherwise.
it all depends on the material and how much you've got to work with.
it's not advisable for every wheel out there.
shut your mouth. sh sh shut your mouth.
Last edited by randyvr6; 08-25-2010 at 09:07 PM.
It's pretty stupid for anyone to say either, "Sure go ahead" or "Don't do it you'll die!" because it depends completely on the wheel. I would feel comfortable saying yay or nay if I saw the wheel in question (and no a machinist wouldn't "judge how much material is left", they have ways to measure things to less than 1/1000ths of an inch). Without knowing the wheel or the car, it's pointless for anyone to give you any answer.
-Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog
I saw this in a movie about a bus that had to speed around the city, keeping its speed over fifty, and if its speed dropped, the bus would explode! I think it was called, "The Bus That Couldn't Slow Down."
but they are far from qualified to do the engineering work required to tell you just how much integrity you have left... or just how big of a bump you can hit mid-corner before your lugs tear through your thinned wheel.
You'd need a full FEA (with very accurate inputs, which the wheel manufacturer probably will not provide) before you could have any confidence in the result.
Previously known as Son of a B...5er!
I've seen this done on very old wheels which were made with lots of extra material and looser tolerances.
Modern wheels are generally made to waste as little material as possible and weigh as little as possible and they don't leave enough room for this.
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I don't practice llanteria
I don't know much about photography compared to all the experts here, but I can usually tell what flavor of post processing was applied compared to a "Straight from the Camera" shot. And to me, that photo looks like it was either smoothed after downsizing, or it was run through a noise reduction filter... something I wouldn't think would be required with a 5D.
You have to consider the wheel, and the offsets it was originally available with.
The manufacturers will take a casting and use it for a range of offsets. If the casting you have was available in the offset you want, then it's probably Ok, but it would probably be simpler to just buy it that way instead of having it milled.
The 135i uses very high offsets in the rear, to the point where it limits wheel selection to just a few that actually fit. There have been vendors offering to mill wheels to make them work, but honestly I'm leary of it. The last thing I want is to have the center of the wheel bust apart while I'm loading it up.
98 wrangler build
also, i wouldnt mill a wheel. Ive seen wheels that have shattered on their own after passing their companies quality tests, id rather have it stick out an extra 2mm and be safe.
Last edited by ClockworkChad; 08-26-2010 at 10:41 AM.
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