So how long are the actual anchor bolts on the MaxJax? I totally see how 2>4 legs but I'd want those bitches anchored to the bedrock if possible
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I'm lovin' that 4 post with bridge jack idea. Lets face it, no matter how bad ass of a mechanic you think you are, unless you're an actual professional that uses two posters day in and day out there will always be a bit of sketch factor there. The 4 post also looks way easier to use with slammed cars and seems as if it would make for quick oil changes.
# bolts in tension = 3
Anchor Bolt Ultimate Strength = 12,580 lbs. PD58, 5/8" Wej-It Drop in Anchor, installed in 3000psi concrete per manufacturer's instructions.
The drop-in anchors for all MaxJax™ lifts are 5/8" diameter x 4" long. A rotary hammer drill, a 5/8" concrete for a pilot hole, and a 7/8" concrete bit for the drop-anchors are required for installation.
got this from the website
On that note, I have a 4 post Bendpak HD9-XW on order, and a Bendpak RJ-45 rolling bridge jack that just showed up last week to go with it.
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I have worked under both. A friend of mine has a 4-post drive on with a bridge jack... as stated before it's more useful for car storage, but wrenching with that thing is a pain in the ass.
Yes you CAN do work on it, but you're constantly working around the F'ing ramp sections. The 2 post makes it SO much easier to actually access the suspension areas of your car freely without smacking your head or having to position your arms awkwardly around stuff.
...and for those saying it's easier to drive on a lowered car... it's still slower. You still have to position the bridge jack after the car is on the ramp to do any work anyways. Plus as mentioned... if you simply put wood on the floor down and drive your car up onto that (same as you would to put a floor jack under it) then you can simply position the 2 post in, lift and wrench.
My Golf is on Koni coilovers turned within 1/4" of bottom and I MUCH prefer to work on it on the 2-post hoist I have access to vs. my friend's 4-post drive on with bridge jack.
My 2 pennies from someone who has actually worked as a hobbyist on both. If you simply want to drive on and store cars, get the 4-post. if your primary motivation of buying is wrenching, get the 2-post. I have also done a full suspension swapout on both, and found the 2-post to be waaaay easier to work with. store cars = 4-post. work on cars = 2-post.
which would you rather work under? (especially in a garage without a ton of floor space...)
Last edited by grounded87; 09-08-2010 at 02:07 PM.
I've run a 12 bay shop for the last 15 years.
I will buy only Rotary brand. I tried BendPak and it was a POS. Made in China as are a LOT of the lifts out there.
The majority of my lifts are asymmetrical two posts. We have a couple 12,000lb 4-posts with rolling jacks which enable us to lift a car off the ramps. They serve a purpose, but are huge and take up a lot of space. I prefer to work on a two post.
I don't like portable lifts as they're very unstable.
If you get a two post make sure you have 3.5" inches of concrete to drill into. Not as important with a 4 post as there's not nearly as much torsional stress trying to rip the feet out of the floor.
BTW, Rotary has low profile adapters for the arms so you can use them with low vehicles.
Before anyone calls me out, yes, I have worked on cars using both lifts and I find that 2 post is more convenient time after time. With a 2 post style you've got the entire underside of the car exposed, wheelwells fully exposed etc. I've also used 2 posts to lift car bodies from their frames, pass engines and subframes out from the car without having to remove the front of the car and all sorts of other jobs that I could not have done with a 4 post. Just check the balance of the car and always be aware of what you're yanking on/off the car and you'll be fine.
*One thing to keep in mind though when choosing lift styles is that 2 post lifts require that the concrete be a certain depth (I can't remember anymore) whereas a 4 post will just sit on top of the floor.*
Last edited by IntrstlarOvrdrve; 09-08-2010 at 03:24 PM.
Sure 2 posts are more convenient for working on cars, but to say a 4 post is useless for working on cars is BS.
That said... I would NEVER park my 2nd car on a 2 post lift.
So I'll take 365 days of indoor parking for my track car, without having to knock my head on hanging tires, or banging my doors into the rails....
The minor inconvenience that comes with working with the 4 post vs a 2 post for the shadetree homeowner is nothing.
FWIW, I've done multiple suspension installs, a transmission removal, alternator removal, belts, hoses, oil changes, etc on mine.
Also I noticed you have a bendpak lift, do you have any feedback on the quality/longevity or any brand-related issues? I know a few people have different opinions about the brand and I'm thinking/hoping that it's a good purchase; just wondering if you had a 2 cents on the brand.
I love my Rotary's - properly installed they seem to be the best and most stable. I only paid about $3200 each for the 3 I have. Evolution Motorsports which is down the way from me has 10 cheap ass "Eagle Equipment" (iirc) and they seem to have a lot of movement in them that I wouldn't feel comfortable with and neither did my old roomate who was a tech at EVOMs. Especially with 100K cars on them. Seems they should have spend less on the fancy show room they have and more on good shop equipment.
As far as vehicle storage goes. My shop is much busier you'd expect to be run out of a 3000sq ft space so every night cars are put in the air and stored so we can squeeze 10 cars inside. We also have a life we've designated as the storage rack and there have been time where long term projects have stayed in the air for 3 months. 7 years of this without issue.
With a 4 post... You can work on a car, but there are some drawbacks. But it's much better than not having a lift at all.
With a 2 post, I would NEVER park a car on it, and would never want to deal with those 2 big columns right at your doors if you parked under it.
So for my needs, the 4 post was far more functional, as I need it to perform both parking and working duties.
I'm super happy with mine. I've had it for 5 years, and it goes up and down on average two or three times a week. (Pretty typical hobbyist duty) So far, I've never had a single problem. Cables are still in great shape, the ram is smooth and doesn't leak. All I have to do is give it an occasional spray of light lube. I pulled the bearing pins this spring to check for wear, and there was none. I do have 220V service to it though, so it's quicker than a 110V unit.Also I noticed you have a bendpak lift, do you have any feedback on the quality/longevity or any brand-related issues? I know a few people have different opinions about the brand and I'm thinking/hoping that it's a good purchase; just wondering if you had a 2 cents on the brand.
Are there better lifts out there? Absolutely, but it's worlds better than any of the Chinese lifts that have decidedly "American" sounding website names. And I have no doubt that it would survive much tougher use than I put it through. If you have a shop, a Rotary is probably a better bet. But they're also a chunk more change.
Last edited by Surf Green; 09-08-2010 at 05:45 PM.
not trying to argue, I am just intrigued as to what you find so bad about parking a car in the air on a 2 post hoist?
I have had my eyes on kwik lift for awhile, seems like a great compromise drive-on ramp system that can me moved off to the side. There is a center bar so you can use a bottle jack for tranny/pan stuff, and it is pretty cheap...and can be powdercoated any of a number of colors.
4 post lifts are more stable, and put less stress on the garage floor. I can climb up and get into my car... open and close the doors without worrying
I know there are project cars left for months with their wheels hanging down, right at the level of my bald head. That's fine if that's what the shop's customer wants... But that's just not for me.
If OP only has a 108" ceiling... storage probably isn't for him though. I've got 15 feet. (Which is an 8 foot stepladder on the lift when I need to change the light bulb.)
Apparently, I just realized that Bendpak began outsourcing in 2008. But assuming they're still using 3" rams, and are keeping a tight hold over quality... it is possible to get quality out of China.... but if they leave them alone, for even a second.... I'll just say I'm glad I got mine in 05.
Still, as I haven't decided, I would love to hear ANY remaining opinions related to the subject at hand.
Also @ Lawrider, do you know of anyone who owns a kwiklift that could give some feedback? On a wider note, does anyone who reads this have any feedback on the kwiklift?