How's that build coming along?
I finally painted a majority of the undercarriage. There is still a lot of prep work that needs to be done in order to paint the rest of it.
The (proper) prep work for POR-15 is simple but very tedious and time consuming....
-First I had to strip down to bare metal. This is the time consuming part... I tried to get the undercarriage as clean as I could. The majority of the paint removal was done with scotchbrite discs. I used a chemical stripper for the hard to reach areas. I had to apply the stripper more then once in some stubborn places.
-After words I used a sponge and water to neutralize the stripper.
-I then had to clean the metal in order to get rid of any grease which could lead to adhesion problems. Pretty simple, just spray the cleaner onto the metal and wipe off.
-Por 15 requires a rough surface in order to bond properly. This is achieved by soaking the metal in "Metal Ready". I sprayed the chemical onto the underbody and ensured that the surface remained wet for about half an hour.
-The metal is then suppose to be rinsed off with water in order to remove any loose pieces of surface rust and any excess zinc byproduct. I used a power washer to spray down the car. I noticed that the portion of the car which I took more time in prepping had a richer zinc coating. I decided to only paint this portion of the car and do a better job prepping the rest.
-The undercarriage had to dry throughly. I let it dry for a couple days and then started masking off threads and anything that I did not want to paint just yet.
-I used a coffee scope to transfer the paint from the can into a disposable plastic bowl. If you get paint on the rim of the can you will not be able to reopen it because it will create a permanent seal.
-I applied the paint with some brushes I got from the dollar store. There going to get ruined anyway....
I was informed that in order to apply a top coat to POR-15, you have to do so while the paint is slightly tacky and still curing. It you wait for it to cure then you have two options.
1. Either scuff up the paint with 320 grit sandpaper. (yeah right)
2. Use the POR-15 self etching primer.
I was ready to spray some rubber undercoat while the POR-15 was still drying but I decided to wait. I want to have all the body plugs on the car and there are spots that need special consideration.
I'll paint the rest of the undercarriage with the POR-15 once it is prepped properly. I hate to do this but I will spray the POR-15 etching primer and throw a layer of rubber undercoat in the Spring. I don't want to mess with the adhesion properties which are temperature related.
In the meantime there is still a lot to get taken care of that is not temperature dependent.
I'm over here clapping. Bravo my friend, this is coming along quite nicely. There's rumors that a few folks from WI are saying they're going to have the nicest MK3's in the midwest next year, but if you keep this up I think they may be a tad surprised.
By Popular demand...
Seats are getting reupholstered with Mulberry and Gray ultra suede.
You get the idea...
The stitching on the steering wheel is being redone to match. The shift boot will also have decorative stitching done to it.
I am not sure what I will do with the headliner or the pillars. I might go with ultra suede.
I will try and work some more on the actual body of the car and weld up the rocker panels and gas tank door before it really gets frigid out.
Buy My Wheels For Scene Points!!!!!!11111(MK3 fitment)
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It'll compliment the color of the car, after all who said I'm keeping it silver?
Leather seats are nice, but your butt just slides around to much.
I need to photoshop some more ideas with the gray a little darker.
I think it'll all pull through.
Are there any brands that you would recommend for the plastic dye?
Hmmm... I think if you're going to put Mulberry in the seats, you should just stick with the Mulberry. Don't mix it with the suede, they seem to clash when they're put on black. Here is my professional absolutely brilliant GIMP rendering of my proposed sexy seats:
♪ Let's just drive, I wanna see what the wind does to your hair ♪
Here's picture update of what's been going on.
I'm prepping the floor pans for rust proofing. There's a bit of surface rust that I want to take care of before I apply the sound dampening material.
I started welding up the seams on one of the strut towers. I really want to start shaving the bay already.
I also started grinding down the fender apron and doing some test fits. It still needs a lot of grinding, but it's getting there.
I made some templates for some patches that will be welded to the apron.
A tip for those that are making templates. If you have some thin plastic it's much more flexible than cardboard and easier to work with. I had a bunch of cheap whiteboards that I decided to use for my templates. Dollar store is a good place to try. I'll be able to use the templates again if I acquire another mkIII bay that needs shaving.
The more time you spend on the template the easier it'll be to cut out an accurate patch.
I'm going to cut out some more patches and then weld them all in one sitting.
The donor car is getting parked this weekend to be torn apart....
Schools semester is almost over.
I'll have a lot more time on my hands during winter break.
gah you make me want to build a garage so i can start my project! but nope she has to sit in the cold for the winter . you people are making it hard for me to keep money in my wallet. SUBSCRIBED for sure. you're doing exactly what i'll be doing come spring.
Holy snot welds batman. I hope you're planning to take the grinder to those bad boys and smooth 'em out a bit. Remember, when welding, you want a nice even arc from side to side and listen to what the weld sounds like. It should be a very even, consistent soft crackle. If it's popping and snapping and sputtering, you're doing it wrong.
Top notch work though. mad props for gettin in and doin some major work on your own.