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    Thread: build thread: 16v + cbr900 carbs + high compression

    1. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-03-2010 01:01 PM #1
      = a fun time





      Its a 1.8 16v, decked head & 3 angle valve job to bring compression to 11:1, cams, eurosport header, TT exhaust with borla. Ignition is stock 1989 knock box ignition, distributor cranked all the way advanced.

      It has been sitting on jackstands since january, and I just put tags on it the tuesday before H20. It missed the show last year, it wasn't going to miss it again.


      I still have a lot of things to clean up in the engine bay, and need to get some new trumpets to replace the cut ones I currently have (if anyone has a spare set LMK)


    2. Member handyalbert11's Avatar
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      10-03-2010 03:54 PM #2
      watching

    3. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 12:13 AM #3
      I had started with a long tube intake manifold, however the idle sucked because it was too long and the carb angle was too low.



      To make them fit I ran a honda Civic radiator. I hated it.




      and the number one reason why you dont run the keihins flat



      the fact that it didn't burn down right then and there was lucky in itself. admittedly, this was a combination of a fuel pressure issue and the carb angle issue. the pressure was too high, and the floats could not close in the carbs.


      thats all for tonight, more pics/vids/info/insight to come
      Last edited by yeayeayea; 10-04-2010 at 12:18 AM.

    4. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 12:30 AM #4
      in for moar
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      10-04-2010 02:34 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by steveo27 View Post
      in for moar
      this
      Quote Originally Posted by burble X2 View Post
      for the last time, i'm not smoking meth with you

    6. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-04-2010 06:24 PM #6
      Round two for the car involved cutting down the runners before the bend so the carbs would be angled upwards

      Before



      After




      However, just cutting down the runners screwed up the alignment of cylinders 1 and 4 with the carbs.






      The car ran ok on this setup..... the part throttle at low rpms had a stumble and it would lean out at high rpms above 2nd gear









      Edit: If you look in the last pic, you see that the power steering pump is ziptied to the coolant bottle support. That will come in later
      Last edited by yeayeayea; 10-04-2010 at 06:32 PM.

    7. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-06-2010 08:06 PM #7
      So i wanted to make sure this car has all the accessories it had when it was stock. First on the list was power steering.

      I originally was running the mk4 tdi pulley. I was told by many that it would make my serpentine belt line right up.

      it doesnt.



      I was going to try to run everything off of one belt. Had I realized the crank pulley alignment was the reason my belts were jumping offf all the time, I may have tried harder to make this setup work




      Admittedly, running a vr ac compressor would have been ideal, since the vr ac compressor is designed to turn the opposite direction, which would have given me better belt contact on the alternator, ac compressor and power steering pump. the additional tensioner was a pulley off of a ford focus, it was the smallest serpentine tensioner i could find.


      So I went the tried and true method of the shaved down ABA pulley. that way i could run the vbelt crank pulley.





      however it was still a hefty lil pulley. so i threw it back on the lathe and went as far as i could go with it





      It is a bit lighter now the only thing i wish i had done differently is adding a centering ring to the hub of the pulley so that it would be hubcentric to the crank gear.

    8. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-09-2010 03:49 AM #8
      some junk I posted in another thread, but felt should be mentioned here



      I am running the stock 1989 ignition. I had to advance the distributor all the way to get proper throttle response and power. If your car feels like it is putting out an extreme amount of air out of the exhaust at idle, and your headers get red hot at idle, chances are you aren't running enough ignition advance. ask me how i know.....

      For the fueling, I am only running the stock in tank fuel pump. It supplies more than enough fuel to keep my car running rich at 9000 rpms. the regulator is a MR. Gasket one. its adjustable without any tools. jets drilled out to something like .178"

      Carb angle is important. try to find a picture of your bike carbs installed on the bike and try to match that angle.

      If you dig up one of the old CBR900rr carb threads on here, someone in there was selling steel intake manifold flanges for 16v engines for 60 shipped. they need a little midification to work, butthats a good deal for a flange. also check out Weirtech on here or http://www.weirtech.ca/ , he makes flanges for cheap.

      I run one vacuum fitting. it works for brakes and such, but i am adding fittings to cyl 1-3 and adding a vacuum gauge .

      An aba alternator setup is an easy, cheap way to drop your alternator down, and improve the reliability/function of your accessories. for 16v's, crank pulley needs to be shaved down 6mm due to the wider crank gear.

      For the ABA stuff, you need to run an ABF waterneck or one of the early slim aba tensioner springs.

      If you run the abf neck, you can cut your upper hose after the 90* bend at the alternator, and then flip the larger portion and it will line right up. you can see the two clamps where i cut it.



      bike carbs take about half the throttle pull of a stock tb to go from idle to wide open throttle. I just took a bolt and stuck it in the stock throttle stop on the floor of the car, limiting pedal travel.

    9. Member badazzgti88's Avatar
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      10-17-2010 12:50 PM #9
      I have drivin this car and it's pretty quik. With a bad clutch he jumped a 1/2 car on me when i was in my vr from a dig.

    10. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-17-2010 02:45 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by badazzgti88 View Post
      I have drivin this car and it's pretty quik. With a bad clutch he jumped a 1/2 car on me when i was in my vr from a dig.
      and that was with me only getting this much throttle opening with the pedal to the floor


      reason was one of my coupler clamps was hitting my throttle linkage


      once it was all fixed up she was running much happier at WOT




      heres a shot of the new manifold. I am going to go out this afternoon and take a few new photos of it since its pretty clean right now

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      10-17-2010 11:35 PM #11
      <3 this. Definitely subscribed.

    12. Geriatric Member steveo27's Avatar
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      10-18-2010 12:02 AM #12
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    13. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      10-20-2010 12:25 AM #13
      took a ton of pictures this weekend, heres one and a video of some 8k rpm sounds




    14. Member Rocambolesque's Avatar
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      10-31-2010 10:27 PM #14
      Very nice. What kind of setup do you have for fuel delivery?

    15. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-09-2010 04:49 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Rocambolesque View Post
      Very nice. What kind of setup do you have for fuel delivery?
      Stock intank fuel pump, i removed the factory high pressure pump and fuel accumulator thing under the car and replaced it all with just a fuel filter. under the hood i have the mr. gasket adjustable fuel pressure regulator. the main jets are drilled out to what should be close to a stage 3 jet setup. As you will see in the dyno video, i have plenty of fuel up top (atomizing into the atmosphere) so bigger cams are likely to be ordered soon


      I dynoed the car recently, put out 138whp and 120 wtq. hopefully some fine tuning of the carbs and a tune up can get me into the 150whp range. hopefully a new fuel filter, plugs, and a stock temp thermostat will get things running tip top.

      i took my stock dyno and my current dyno and put the figures into one graph for easy comparison. a big chunk of power gained up top, and the peak hp occurs about 1k later, which is fun




      heres a video of my second pull, 3rd being the one where i hit 138.

      Last edited by yeayeayea; 11-09-2010 at 04:53 PM.

    16. Member kinkerstinker's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 08:13 AM #16
      seen it at h2o but i didn't say hi because you were busy. anyway the build looks good. i'm hoping to have my 16v carbd by this summer.
      <---- we are soooooooooo coooooooooooooool
      TRADE FOR MY SHEEP SHOES!
      Quote Originally Posted by tomdooley View Post
      your timing belt should be tighter than kinkerstinker's pants

    17. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 12:58 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by kinkerstinker View Post
      seen it at h2o but i didn't say hi because you were busy. anyway the build looks good. i'm hoping to have my 16v carbd by this summer.
      Ah you should have said somethin, im sure whatever i was doing was dumb anyways. hopefully by the end of winter this engine will be somewhere in the 160whp range.

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      11-10-2010 02:31 PM #18
      Awesome dude... just... awesome!

    19. Member badazzgti88's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 04:09 PM #19
      quit farting around and lets put a 2L in it

    20. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 04:30 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by badazzgti88 View Post
      quit farting around and lets put a 2L in it
      maybe if i find a 9a in the junkyard. maybe get an aba block or something and get wild with it. right now the 1.8 is staying.

    21. Member microdub98's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 04:19 PM #21
      So where did ya score that nifty pipe your using in conjunction w/ the factory coolant hose bends???

    22. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 04:56 PM #22
      Quote Originally Posted by microdub98 View Post
      So where did ya score that nifty pipe your using in conjunction w/ the factory coolant hose bends???
      which one, the abf waterneck? I got mine off ebay, but Black forest sells them. If you are talking about the upper radiator hose, it is just a stock one with a cut right after the radiator outlet, and then I flipped the longer section of hose and it lined up perfect.

    23. Member nwvwgli's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 06:14 PM #23
      are you running a wideband or are you the carb master i wonder how close you jetting specs would be to mine its a aba/jh 292 cam decked .080

    24. Member microdub98's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 06:48 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by yeayeayea View Post
      which one, the abf waterneck? I got mine off ebay, but Black forest sells them. If you are talking about the upper radiator hose, it is just a stock one with a cut right after the radiator outlet, and then I flipped the longer section of hose and it lined up perfect.
      Actually I'm talking about the metal pipe, not the rubber hose bends. Like what is obviously visible as your upper rad hose.

    25. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-21-2010 10:04 PM #25
      are you talking about this picture?



      because if so that was just some steel pipe i cut to length in order to make custom lines for the honda radiator. I have since switched back to the stock radiator.

      Quote Originally Posted by nwvwgli View Post
      are you running a wideband or are you the carb master i wonder how close you jetting specs would be to mine its a aba/jh 292 cam decked .080
      I only have a narrowband, and i would not call myself a carb master, but the car seems pretty decent for the little tuning that i have done.

    26. Member microdub98's Avatar
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      11-22-2010 04:02 PM #26
      Cool, thanx for the info on the pipe. Last question.....it looks like you have one of those cheaper Mr. Gasket FPR's ya get at pep boys/advanced auto, how's that workin for ya??? My set up came w/ one from the PO & a friend told me not to use it cuz they're "unreliable". I figured it came w/ the set up outta a running car so it can't be to unreliable.

    27. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-22-2010 04:34 PM #27
      It works, i haven't had any problems with it but im not going to say its the best thing out there. Since I could never get my gauge to read above 0psi i dont know how consistent it is at regulating the flow with changes in rpm/engine load but i dont plan on changing it anytime soon.

    28. Junior Member curtis_mk3's Avatar
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      11-22-2010 07:39 PM #28
      I'm actually buying my 16v and cbr 900 carbs tomorrow to start a similar build, but im shooting for 13:1 compression ratio.

    29. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-22-2010 09:56 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by curtis_mk3 View Post
      I'm actually buying my 16v and cbr 900 carbs tomorrow to start a similar build, but im shooting for 13:1 compression ratio.
      1,8 or 2.0? and that will be a very mean engine next step for mine is likely a minor teardown to do all the powdercoating i didnt get done this year

    30. Member Dave926's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 02:09 PM #30
      I wish I stuck with my carbs. Trying to make it driveable in a weekend because it was my daily at the time wasnt the smartest thing I could have done.

      Im ready to dump my turbo **** to go back to carbs, nothing like getting to tinker with things with tools.

      Yeayeayea, how is the access to work on the carbs or adjust them. My r1's sucked absolutely no chance of removing the main jet without taking the whole rack off.

      Post up what you did for a throttle cable too please.

    31. Member nwvwgli's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 03:08 PM #31
      i used the stock cable for my carbs and crimped the j hook from my mk2

      check these out so cool
      http://www.parsonsengineering.com.au...s/clamps86.jpg

    32. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 03:22 PM #32
      those cable clamps are sweet. as for a cable, I think it is a bicycle brake cable crimped to the stock cable. not ideal by any means...

      for the carbs, yeah i would have to pull the whole rack to change jets. luckily i haven't had to do that.

    33. Member Dave926's Avatar
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      11-28-2010 11:10 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by nwvwgli View Post
      i used the stock cable for my carbs and crimped the j hook from my mk2

      check these out so cool
      http://www.parsonsengineering.com.au...s/clamps86.jpg
      Quote Originally Posted by yeayeayea View Post
      those cable clamps are sweet. as for a cable, I think it is a bicycle brake cable crimped to the stock cable. not ideal by any means...

      for the carbs, yeah i would have to pull the whole rack to change jets. luckily i haven't had to do that.
      Of course I see the cable clamps and the steel flange well after I sold my carbs, that would have made life so much easier.

      Come to think of it I still have my old mikuni's sitting around, it was my R1's that i sold. yeayeayea what year did your carbs come off of?

      My old mikuni;s came from an 80's gixxer and were gravity fed. they only need something like 1 psi and that was why i ditched them and went with the R1's.

      My next mk2 is going on carbs, regardless if they webers, bike carbs, dells w/e. Im not done with my turbo **** and Ive already had enough.

    34. Member yeayeayea's Avatar
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      11-29-2010 05:08 AM #34
      my carbs came off a cbr 900 rr

    35. Member mk2fu's Avatar
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      12-01-2010 12:09 PM #35
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...Carb-Questions

      anyone who wants info on a bike carb setup, started the thread, glad someone took it somewhere.

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