I am running the stock 1989 ignition. I had to advance the distributor all the way to get proper throttle response and power. If your car feels like it is putting out an extreme amount of air out of the exhaust at idle, and your headers get red hot at idle, chances are you aren't running enough ignition advance. ask me how i know.....
For the fueling, I am only running the stock in tank fuel pump. It supplies more than enough fuel to keep my car running rich at 9000 rpms. the regulator is a MR. Gasket one. its adjustable without any tools. jets drilled out to something like .178"
Carb angle is important. try to find a picture of your bike carbs installed on the bike and try to match that angle.
If you dig up one of the old CBR900rr carb threads on here, someone in there was selling steel intake manifold flanges for 16v engines for 60 shipped. they need a little midification to work, butthats a good deal for a flange. also check out Weirtech on here or http://www.weirtech.ca/
, he makes flanges for cheap.
I run one vacuum fitting. it works for brakes and such, but i am adding fittings to cyl 1-3 and adding a vacuum gauge .
An aba alternator setup is an easy, cheap way to drop your alternator down, and improve the reliability/function of your accessories. for 16v's, crank pulley needs to be shaved down 6mm due to the wider crank gear.
For the ABA stuff, you need to run an ABF waterneck or one of the early slim aba tensioner springs.
If you run the abf neck, you can cut your upper hose after the 90* bend at the alternator, and then flip the larger portion and it will line right up. you can see the two clamps where i cut it.
bike carbs take about half the throttle pull of a stock tb to go from idle to wide open throttle. I just took a bolt and stuck it in the stock throttle stop on the floor of the car, limiting pedal travel.