Watching.
#1
Since this build has taken me more than 3 years of planning, buying, and now finally building my motor up, here is a quick picture update and past pictures.
Stats:
2.9L 8:5:1comp 82mm JE pistons (ceramic coated dome and skirt)
Int Eng rifle drilled rods
ARP Billet Mains
Blueprinted and Balanced Rotating Assembly
Knife-edged, lightened, and balanced crank
Ceramic Coated bearings (main + rod)
Starting to build the head this week. It is an R32 head out of a Toureg(thanks Issam!!)
Port&Polish
TT 264/260 cams
034 motorsports Dual Spring and Titanium Retainers
Revving to 8200rpm on C2 managment
Pag Mani and custom downpipe from arnold in Swain Tech White Lightening Coating
This build will have a Garret GT3582R T4 in precision covers 0.68AR
![]()
#3
Watching this for sure!![]()
The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member #268 "Like 6 cylinder of 15 degree sex"
(_fishbowl society_)
#4
In case anyone is curious, we modified an engine frame to mount to the 4 holes on the back side of the block. This allows us to time the motor on the stand and gives a great impression of a floating VR.
This build will be Air to Water cooled. The core is from SiliconeIntakes.com and is actuall very well built.
I am running an 80mm DBW throttle body out of a Hemi. My intake manifold is an Area 51 SRI that has been modified to fit the TB. I will also be modifying the flange to fit he R head. This SRI was designed for a 2.8L 24v. The differences in the flange is 1 bolt hole. The flange also sits at a different angle off the R head, so I may be looking at modifying the alternaterbracket, etc.
This is the resevoir to the AWIC system. It will sit in the trunk, across from a battery box that matches the skull. I guess I got a thing for skulls. Not to sure why, but that doesn't really matter.
Thanks for looking. i will update as we go along.
#6
You should test out that build i my car before you go ahead and copy it to yours.. just in case...
![]()
2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
1992 Corrado SLC - The toy & DD
2012 Golf R - The weekender
#7
Nice! Those Area51 intakes are rare!! Good thing about them is they have long runners, bad thing is they tent to make cyl 1,2,3 run lean (as the air whooshes to that side). In any case, I have been running mine for 20,000+ miles and love it.
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#8
isn't that turbo kinda small, at least on the exhaust side? I've run custom 3584's on numerous 1.8t and make awesome power with good spool seem like could go bigger
#9
This turbo is sized for this build and the FWD limitations. I am looking for full spool between 3500-3800rpm and I should be making power almost to 8000rpm I hope. I have the ability to rev to 8200rpm redline. Like I said turbo is sized to this build. I am planning on ripping the powerplant out of my jetta in the future and build an S4 VRT. The block is built to handle alot more injector than 550cc and a GT35.
Phree-have you experienced cyclinders 1,2,and 3 running a bit lean? Something to keep an eye on. Thanks
I love the runner length on the Area 51 SRI. We may have to modify this piece as the R32 head gets added to the equation.
Thanks for the comments guys.....will try to keep you updated.
#10
going to take awhile for the bump in my jamies to relax. no wonder its taken 3 years, got alot invested research and money wise. definitely following your build. good luck
The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member #521
stay thirsty my friends
#11
Yes those 3 (pass side) plugs always come out a bit cleaner than the 4,5,6 (driver side) ones., but not hugely, and so far it hasnt been an issue
Also, IMHO a 3582 is a PERFECT turbo for street driving a VR6. Honestly, a GT3582 on a 1.8t would SUCK on the street (sure it may be fast on the track or on the highway) but hey if you ACTUALLY drive it, that's a bit diff. Depending on temperature and what gear I am in (higher gear = engine rpms go up slower = turbo makes more boost at lower rpms as it spins up at roughly the same speed, thats why you need load on a turbo car), but anyways I can be making 10psi by usually 3200-3500 rpm.
If I were to rebuild my setup again from scratch, I would still go with a 3582 (or comparable precision like the 6162 or something) I would not go bigger.
I found out the other day that I can actually rev to 7800 rpm, not 7200 like I thought, and it DOES make power up there (the cams help im sure), and infact, that was the only way I could hang with my buddies 600cc kawasaki, by absolutely burying the tach.
HAVE FUN!!![]()
Last edited by PhReE; 10-05-2010 at 02:30 PM.
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#12
Ok cool I was looking at a new turbo for my 24v project as I didn't wanna use my old generic t4 from my 12v but thought that would be too small
How does that compare to the t-60 whatevers that most guys seem to run on the r-motors
***from my vortex observations I have come to the conclusion that post count has no direct effect on automotive knowledge, or even common sense for that matter***
#13
Thanks for the comments guys.
Phree--thats great to hear, your seeing full boost at 3300rpm? We will have to see what a 2.9l bottom end R head can do. Great to hear your making power up that far in the rev range---gives me hope that I can make power up into the 8000+rpm area.
I chose this turbo after seeing the feedback from guys like Phree and MEIK--I started my build way back when MEIK was doing his....it just took me a little longer to finance and find the time.
I was split between this ball bearing turbo or a 60-1 S cover journal bearing turbo that spools very similar to the GT35(2-300rpm sooner with BB). The choice in AR was made easy by Arnold @ Pag Parts(who assemblied this turbo with precision covers-garrett does not make a 0.68ar). Arnold custom made my downpipe with this turbo and his manifold. For a street driven VR, Arnold suggested this turbo, and so far he has been right on with advice and shiny new parts.
In the next two weeks, the head should be back at the machine shop for a third time, then its valve lappin time and my bottom end meets its new head.![]()
#15
Check us out on FaceBook---> ///Brooklyn Auto Rennen
The Elite 24v VR6 Club: Member # 471
www.pagparts.com
#17
Today's progress:
Bottom end is timed. Cams are installed but not tourqued down.
Turbo mocked up....
More to come tommorrow.
#18
About time!
almost ready for our oil pan?![]()
INA Engineering Inc.
Email | Facebook
INA Billet | 034 EFI | Mahle Powerpak | DM Forged | Ferrea | Supertech | ARP | South Bend | HTA Turbochargers | Mocal Oil control | DBW Throttle Body Upgrades
#19
No, I couldn't make it work. Sorry Buddy! The cash just isn't in the budget for anything else at the moment. Now the idea is to get the car on the road and see what we have. For now, the stock oil pan with a welded fitting will be the method to our madness. After we have the motor timed, I will hang some oil lines on go from there.
More updates to come tommorrow.
#21
Got some more work in today. The motor is timed, and the rear main seal and cover are on permanently. I am missing a gasket and two o rings for the vvt phase actuators-where they exit the timing cover.
Thats all for now. Look for injector and fuel rail install soon. I am running an R32 fuel rail modified for -6an ss braided hose and powdercoated gold.
Thanks for looking. Comments welcome!!
#22
Got a little work done tonight. No pics right now, but a friend was out with his nikon, so we should be treated to non-iphone pics.
The flywheel has been mounted with ARP PRO bolts. This is a 15lb steel unit machined by Southbend to match their full face, single disc clutch and pressure plate. I will be happy to get 30k miles out of this disc. Thats with more than a little luck. I am waiting on two o-rings and a gasket for the upper timing chain cover. The intake manifold has been modifyed to fit the R head, and the alternator bracket clears everything with ease. I am excited to get the motor buttoned up and ready for install.
#24
Goin to do more man work in a little bit. Got my gasket and orings for the upper timing chain cover. Want to mount the cover permanently and get my fuel rail and injectors in.
Next mock up oil and coolant lines for turbo. Has anyone tapped the block for coolant?
Oil drain will be welded into oil pan n painted.
More pics to come later.
#26
I'm so jealous.
2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
1992 Corrado SLC - The toy & DD
2012 Golf R - The weekender
#27
Alright folks.....we have a complete, timed rotating assembly. The valve and timing covers are all tourqued down and good to go. The flywheel and clutch assembly is torqued and ready to roll. I will be chasing threads and mounting thermostats tommorrow. I believe we will also be trying to finalize the intake manifold. The stock bolts of the intake mani had to be cut down. Fuel rail and injectors yet to come. Almost time to lay in the wiring harness and start the process.......
Thanks for checkin inMore to come!!!
![]()
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 04-02-2011 at 08:00 PM.
#28
Can't find my crank sensor, but everything else is moving along nicely. Next weekend i hope to move forward with the wiring harness.
Thanks for taking a look.
#29
deff watching im doing a n/a build with an r32 head on a 2.8 bottom end
![]()
#30
watching...still trying to decide to build a frank motor or an r32 motor for my corrado, guess ill wait and see your numbers first.
#31
I will be limited to what the injectors allow. I am running 550cc injectors with a custom C2 tune. We will see what this head allows. Stock 24v needs 20psi to breach 400whp.
I am hoping this head plus cams nets somewhere around 15psi to breach that 400whp barrier. Thats the idea anyway.
#32
i would be running full standalone. IMHO thats the only way to run any turbo motor. tune specifically to that exact car. no 2 cars are the same, therefore i think that a chip is just a barrier to the potential HP you can make
#33
Where'd you get this idea from? If that's the case.. my 2.8L 24v with just a head spacer and head studs must be a freak, along with everyone else that makes 500whp fairly easily on pump gas @ around 20psi.
What I'm trying to say is, a c2/UM 550cc file @ 4bar is closer to 630cc, anddd with the R32 head, you'd be making more power since the head flows better. Somewhere closer to 550whp@20ish psi. A chip-tune on these cars isn't bad at all, and tons of guys on here drive their turbo 24v's fairly often, if not daily, with nothing but good things to say. Passes inspection, drives like stock under boost, cold start, cruise control, everything. Doing that with standalone/piggyback is much harder. Just my two cents though.![]()
The internet is serious business.
#34
I agree with brian↑
#35
This is a chip build due to NJ emissions requirement. If any of the standalone systems out there allowed me to pass OBD2 emissions, then I would be into it. The chip is as custom as it can get. This is not a generic shelf tune, but a file created specifically for this motor and this build.
As for the 400whp @ 20psi, I was not quoting exact figures, and was not talking about your car specifically. It was an estimate that I came up with looking at some of the 24v turbo builds that have come up on here in the past few years. Please post a dyno graph showing over 500hp at the wheels at only 20psi please. Would love to see what kind of freak your car must be.
Relax guys....lets not get so emotional this early in the week.![]()