So wonderful. Did you weld the AN fitting on the valve cover for the catch can?
No, the valve cover just threads in with the correct adapter. The stock stuff can just be pulled out of the valve cover without issue. I believe it is an NPT to -10AN but forget details. I am in AN fitting overdrive after almost completing the oil and coolant piping in the engine bay. Way to much to remember, and i honestly finished the valve cover mini-project over a year ago at this point. Amazing how far its come, considering what has actually been completed over that time period. The flex fans were purchased 3+ years ago and put on various shelves throughout the years. This was the first purchase of my turbo build, and it is a great feeling to see it all come together.
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 11-21-2011 at 07:57 PM.
So we have finished all AWIC and coolant lines in the car. All hose ends have been made. We completed the AWIC system with a Mezeire pump and 5 gallon reservoir in the trunk plumbed to a -8 braided stainless feed and return. The pump goes straight to the secondary radiator mounted up front, then to the awic core and the return goes from the core back to the 5 gallon reservoir. These two braided ss -8an lines travel through the frame rail under the exhaust and into the trunk via 90 degree AN bulkhead fittings. All braided ss AN lines in the engine bay have a plastic protective cover to keep from ruining electrical wiring, etc. Jiffy-tite quick disconnect fittings can be seen attached to the awic core to help with removal, as all electrical and plumbing run under the core where the battery is located stock. My yellow top optima is mounted in the trunk, with lines running the length of the passenger side frame rail and into the cowl area to driver side power plate. All vacuum lines are -6AN braided black nylon, with one line going directly to the brake booster, and a second line going to a vacuum block mounted to the power plate under awic core.
First start-up and engine break-in is around the corner and should make for one fantastic christmas present!!!
I wanna thank Jay "The Mustache", as well as Pete the Great Greek for their dedication to the cause and keeping our "Man Dates" every Sunday morning.
It has been a hell of a journey, boys, But success is within our grasp. It is almost time to hunt down some very expensive cars and embarrass some unknowing vette owners!!!
Thanks for tuning in and watching this adventure unfold!!
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 12-04-2011 at 09:23 PM.
Simply amazing, promise us start up video
I went to a local performance shop that carried XRP AN fittings. Just the two lines out of the heater core including the coolant ball going to the block and t-stat, I was quoted $350! I can't imagine what you spend alone in AN on his build. I'm sure you don't want to know either.
I know you said you did this a while ago, but you remember what adapter you had to use for the IE heater core fittings to AN? and what size? This shop didn't have metric adapters in stock, so I couldn't try those.
Yea...i certainly do not wish to know the total in AN fittings at this point. I used Earl's fittings throughout, as we have had issues with Summit brand hose end fittings not holding up.
For the integrated engineering Billet Heater hose fittings, i contacted the manufacturer for the necessary adaptor. I remember it being an o-ring adapter fitting out to -10AN hose. Same with the SAI block off plate, as one heater hose goes to the backside of the head into the plate. I suggest using Jegs or Summit to source the fittings, as they will be cheaper than the performance shop. Prices for AN fittings and adapters ranged from $20 to $80 depending on size. The Jiffy-tite disconnects were the most expensive part of the conversion.
The interesting part will be to see how many miles i can get out of the tapped t stat housing before i see any leaks. We tapped the t stat plastic housing to accept NPT to AN adapters, and used teflon sealer as well. We are hoping 50+k miles is easily attainable for an almost daily driven car.
Start-up video will certainly follow in the next few weeks. Then we can follow with some highway kill videos.
Thanks for tuning in....
everything looks so damn sexy......except fot that power steering resvoir of yours lol but seriously goos stuff man . 2 weeks from now marks the start of my 24v build......kinda scared not gonna lie
..."understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the back of the car"...
This is where she stands. Technically we could hook the battery up and turn the key, but we are taking our time. Currently it is wiring time for some of the electrical additions, such as boost controller, boost gauge, wideband, and meth. Still need to finalize the cooling system and fill 'er up.
Another warm weekend in south jersey and this little puppy is gonna be on the road.
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 01-28-2012 at 03:02 PM.
Still need to fab up the exhaust, but progress is always being made.
The oem votex bumper went to the painter today. It fit over the awic radiator with one cut to the back side of the bumper, and we are good to go. If the weather allows, our "front modular assembly" will come off and then go back on for the final time. The hard part will be to pre-load all the largest AN fittings and lines so they remain tight and operational forever and ever. We will be using blue loc-tite on those -16AN black earl's fittings that go from t-stat to radiator.
The exhaust is all 409 stainless steel, 3 inch turbo back, using a flowmaster muffler and a metallic core high-flow cat. The cat and down pipe are v banded and installed already, along with the o2 sensors. I had a buddy tig weld the matching v band on my big 5 foot long straight pipe that will attach to the cat. Everything else we do will be mig'd.
A little electrical and some final tightening, and we may have an actual driving vehicle very soon.
Bumper comes back from the painter tomorrow. Today we made a bracket to allow the shifter to clear our custom turbo inlet pipe, MAF housing and filter. The TIP, housing, and filter is a full 4 inch directly off the compressor housing. My Godzilla diverter valve is recirc'ed back into the TIP post MAF.
The power steering reservoir has been removed for cleaning, but the banjo bolt and line are installed. We also fit my new GruvenParts billet dipstick to the stock funnel and cut out some material to be able to actually access the dipstick with everything on the car. Once all the coolant lines are tight and the front modular assembly is on the car for the last time, we can add coolant and call it a day.
We finalized the front end this weekend and got a ton done.All coolant lines are connected and tight. Ac and power steering are also done, with fluid in the lines and bled. We also made the team decision to fire off the motor next weekend after priming the system. The fuel pump set-up is now being fitted with new clamps, and a new 044 sock. The tank also had to be drained and cleaned. I am running an in-tank Bosch 044 pump bolted onto the stock bracketry with the help of 034 motorsports hardware and bracket. This positions the 044 in place of the stock swirl pot/pump, yet retains the stock level sensor, cap, collapsable bracket and OEM wiring.
I also bought a billet aluminum sock fitting set-up from Jay Racing to help avoid starvation issues associated with running the in-tank pumps. We had to mod the Jay Racing fitting by cutting the length down in order to fit a sock on the bottom of the big 044 pump when the stock bracket sort of collapses to fit in the tank.
I have stock fuel lines up to the engine bay, where it becomes -6AN braided stainless lines to the R32 fuel rail, powdercoated gold and mod'ed to fit -6AN.
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 04-08-2012 at 09:03 PM.
Went to fire the motor today...found that we installed the oil filter canister without o-rings between that and the block. We have great oil pressure though!!
I ordered a set from the local dealer, but they will not be in till Wednesday. So, like all parts of this build-up, we ran into another little delay. I have the o rings off my extra block, that appear to be ok, but we will probably wait for new ones.
My Bosch 044 in-tank fuel pump is installed. We used the 034 Motorsports mounting brackets on the stock sender. All lines are the new Gates submersible stuff that can handle today's fuels even fully submerged. In addition, i am using a sock filter set-up from Jay Racing to help with fuel starvation, but i will not be running this car with any less than 1/4 tank of gas. The good part is Jay racing re-designed the 044 filter and shortened the fitting so that it fits into the MKIV tank perfectly. We are very happy with the in-tank 044 set-up. The fuel tank has also been cleaned and refilled with fresh 93 octane. Tomorrow we prime the fuel system and button up some other parts of the car. I guess next weekend we will try to fire off the motor!!
Well, no more oil leaks!! We have oil pressure and we have fuel pressure at the rail. The powder-coating cooked my schrader valve in the R fuel rail, so that was dealt with yesterday.
New main issue---software!! When i originally purchased my C2 custom tune to match my hardware, Jeff was still with the company. I have also sent this ecu back to C2 at least 3 times for various upgrades and drivability tweaks that have been made for other cars already on the road. I know that i initially had C2 remove the immobilizer, as this was my extra ecu and not the computer that originally came with my swap.
So...fast-forward to yesterday!! No start(spark or fuel) with the immobilizer flashing away on the cluster. We ran and grabbed my stock ecu that does not match any of the new hardware, but of course that did nothing either.
So both ecu's are now in the mail back to C2 to address the immobilizer issue on the loaded ecu, and to see if C2 will copy the tune onto my completely stock ecu as well. This will allow me to save and email logs to the tuner, allowing changes in my software, while still being able to drive the car in the mean time!!
C2 could even choose to keep the immobilizer intact on my stock ecu, as it matches the engine, cluster, and key.
So here is too next weekend. C2 should receive both computers by Wednesday, and i am hoping for a quick return.
Funny part is the initial swap from 2.0 to 2.8l never gave any immobilizer issues after we figured out the chip in the car key had to match. This turbo build is fighting me all the way!!
Anyone else have issues with the lovely VW immobilizer?? Post up similar stories!!!
What kind of stainless fuel lines are you running? I plan on doing SS lines from the rear (maybe hardlines as far forward as possible) to the front but I do not want fuel vapor leak and deterioration. I've been reading black teflon is the way to go but you have to use stainless fittings to ground it and so forth.
Stock fuel lines from the tank through the passenger side frame rail and up into the bay. From there i used an adapter to the -6AN braided stainless steel and Earl's fittings to the adjustable FPR and from there, all the way to the R32 fuel rail. It is visible in the pictures, as it is powder-coated gold like my brake calipers and sway bars. The R32 fuel rail was modified with -6AN fittings welded directly to each end.
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 04-22-2012 at 02:56 PM.
do work! it's coming along well....
reading through I saw that you had some issues with summit fittings? what specifically, they would just back out or somethin? I have mostly aeroquip / russel but my fuel lines are summit.... and now I'm a bit nervous. They've been on the car with no problems for about 6 months now.... just wondering what happened with yours.
The summit lines themselves i have had no issues. It is the fittings that are not as reliable as the other name brands. We experienced alot of leaks and short life span on a recent high hp 1.8t build--oil lines leaking and needing rebuilding within 3 months of start-up. They just didnt hold up...forget re-using them!!
No failures so far with the Earl's fittings, but we are going to keep an eye on the t-stat housing, where we tapped and fit NPT to AN adapters. I will let you know how these lines fair.
I am awaiting my ECU from C2, and then we can break her in.
Thanks for tuning in!! More to come very soon.
Bad crankshaft position sensor.....positives are both computers communicated with the vehicle and diagnostically without an issue. Two codes immediately popped--we also had no rpms while cranking. Codes were for MAF(unplugged) and for no crank speed reading--so after chasing down a brand new impulse sensor and fighting the urge to use the second used sensor attached to the extra block, we now wait for back-up, and move forward!!
Problem solved....first start-up coming in the next two hours!!
Last edited by Snitches Get Stitches; 05-05-2012 at 01:54 PM.
Little update.....Car runs and drives like a champ. Have had our fair share of issues to handle. Alternator died, along with a bunch of other OEM electronics, and we also helicoiled the entire intake side of my R32 head. We found a ripped o-ring and some threads being pulled out.
Life is pretty good right now...running off the wastegate spring at 11 pounds. Car is having the bugs ironed out and will be aligned by the end of the week.
Still have some things to take care of and some sensors to replace. Currently waiting on the Bluewater/034 billet fuel rail to replace my OEM modified R32 fuel rail that has a pinhole leak where the -6AN fitting was welded on. No fuel lines will need to be remade or replaced.
I need some info and advice from people as far as my software goes, as far as passing emissions and inspection in New Jersey. The car DOES NOT have a check engine light on. The only code stored was a "Timing retarded" code after the car sat for a week and had little oil pressure at start-up. That code has not returned. My issue is with the State of New Jersey OBD2 readiness states. My ecu is showing 3 readiness, Misfire, Fuel, and CCM. According to the inspection tech, NJ has 5 readiness states requried, and by our estimation, we are missing readiness monitors for Evap, O2(w/ heater for O2), and SAI. My SAI system is physically deleted, but I do have a resistor in place on the harness. I also paid C2 to remove SAI in the software, but I did not know this removed the readiness monitor also.(I have a MK3 VR with C2 race software that writes out SAI but shows SAI readiness monitor as a forced pass).
I am going back and forth with C2 as we speak, but wanted to hear from the community. I also wanted to reach out to Jeff(Jeffnes or something similar) who works with United Motorsports, as i may need more than just tweaked bench chip tunes at this point. Anyone have his S/N or personal contact info? PM me please.
Also, the caris doing something weird as it comes down from highway speed, as you depress the clutch, it will stall out. Thanks to my boost controler, Apexi AVC-R, we can see the throttle close, showing 0%, yet the ecu seems not to be able to recover the idle from that point. This may be due to the very lightened rotating assembly and the ecu's inability to catch idle as the knife-edged crank just keeps spinning.
Anyone see or hear this before?
C2 custom software based off the R32 Turbo tunes they have out there on 550cc injectors.