bump for more pictures, and less BS. Your car is going to be amazing, and honestly, the fact it has a 12v in there makes me like it that much more.
Please STFU now this retarded. IF you have zero knowledge about a subject stop arguing it. Your cluttering this thread with stupid bull **** that is completely irrelevant to what is going on here, In case you missed the title this is an R32. Not and Evo, S4, Jetta or and other car that happens to have a working CM clutch in it. THERE IS NO CLUTCH THAT WORKS FOR THE R32 BESIDES THE DM CLUTCH.
huichox4 thank you for trying to set facts straight in here someone needs to.
Last edited by VRsixGLI; 10-08-2010 at 02:50 AM.
do you own one?
your comments are like saying get a stock clutch and you will be fine....... just like all the other companies that created all of this failed clutches
VF engineering was a CM distributor specifically for the R 32 stg 1, 2 and 3 kits that were supposed to withstand a lot of power.
they had so many issues with them that they regret it. Streetwerke has CM make clutch kits to their specs for the R32 and when they work for moderate power they only last 10,000 miles average, less if you are putting more power.
the DM kit can widstand 1200 awhp twist an input shaft and be taken out of the tranny, clean it and throw it to a new tranny without a problem. plus rebuilding it costs way less than replacing with a new kit from CM.
South bend had to redesign their kits because they blew up several times. now they have an option for moderate to high power but not really sure how much they will last because they are very recent.
you pay a lot for the DM kit at first but when you can rebuild it a few times the price might be even cheaper than what you will end up paying every 10000 miles for any other kit in the long run.
dont come with speculations and sh** here. we are here to help not to talk out of our A** like you seem to be doing.
I guess Specs or QMs don't work on R32s... Oh yea but only DM clutches work or maybe that clutch made from rare diamonds in Africa I heard works pretty good too
R32s... the only car that has a vewy vewy vewy special need for only one clutch manufacturer in the WHOLE WIDE WORLD!
that is the same guy I told you that had to stiffen up pretty much all the drive line with custom braces and track bars and full solid custom mounts. I have talked to him specifically about all of that.
so you can buy your cheap a** SPEC but will end up spending way more than 2 DM kits at least to make it work
plus the link you posted is a pretty much a one off kit like the whole car itself. and he blew his transfer case not so long ago due to the same issues we have ........... and its mounted on an MK2 with custom everything!!!
you are not more than an online junky that knows how to google pics and vids man.
you dont have to post what has been said
we have done our leg work ........... thats said and done.
Last edited by huichox4; 10-08-2010 at 03:43 PM.
Hydro control setup? Flywheel? disk diameter? ...I'm trying to understand what's so special about the setup that it takes a very specific application to be reliable on similar power levels
2.0T+034efi+meth = 300+whp = Part out PM me for anything
Usually when you see 500whp or higher and you have any intention on driving the car hard you upgrade mounts and brace things. I hope the DM clutch works for you. Like I said earlier nice build but next time don't get all but hurt when people post their opinions. Its a forum and thats what happens.
2. Opinions are what spread incorrect information and are usually from people with no experience in the subject.
3. I appreciate the kind words on the project.
most kits from CM had issues with engagement and disengagement in the upper revs plus when you made good power they started to last pretty much nothing and or blew up destroying the tranny housings. I think it was more of a problem with the slave cylinder for the engagement issues, kits blowing up were due to some manufacturers using painted stock pressureplates plus other bad quaality of manufacturing. go through the lynk I posted before, that should mention most of it.
Spec has not have great luck in VW's, its either hit or miss pretty much every one knows this.
there might be at least one german or european manufacrurer that makes a quality piece but it ends up being too expensive also.
Should have some updates tomorrow. I removed the interior today and cleaned the hell out of everything since it was a mess. Working on where things are going to be placed such as the battery relocation, the surge tank, water box, water pump, and fuel pump. I remember seeing somewhere a picture of a batter installed where the monsoon amp is in the side of the hatch compartment I think I am going to try and get it to fit there.
Surge tank and fuel pump in the hatch or under the car is the question.
What is a rough price on new syncros installed in an R32 trans?
Any pictures of the tank mounted under the car? Trying to determine the best location I'm thinking about having one made to fit where the green vacuum reservoir is located. Either that or I'm going to mount the tank in the spare tire well. I'm really looking for some pictures of where others have them mounted.
If i remove the green vacuum reservoir do I need to run any resistors to not get a cel?
What fittings are needed to run new fuel lines off the factory fuel pump to the surge tank and what size line should that be?
I need to either have a tank made or purchase a tank so I need to know what size fittings need to be on it.
I would like to run dual feed lines to the fuel rail where would the fpr?
Once the fueling is out of the way I'll move on to the next set of issues?
Anyone have a fueling diagram?
as mentioned before, for your standalone, I recommend Lugtronic. Kevin Black really knows his stuff and offers excellent support.
Lugtronic.com, Force Fed Engineering, Boost Factory, Caste Systems Performance
all motor vr6
"Hell I am proud to be a member of the All-motor/Jersey A-hole/whatever CLIQUE." - vw1320
the DM twin disc is a tilton. Chris green runs a carbon/carbon tilton in his audi but like said before it doesnt matter. on the other hand ed from force fed is running a clutchmasters twin and pushing 980 wheel thru an 02M trans, the same trans a R32 runs. tiltons are great and so are clutchmasters. pretty much all of the twin discs made now are very good and will handle what you can throw at them, and no its not overkill on the clutch its actually a very smart thing he is doing. only thing i recommend is a flow controll valve.
I think that the other kits have had issues with the slave cylinder itself too, I dont know if DM sells it with just a different top hat or machined to their spec or different internally but it works.
Removed the majority of the interior minus the door cards and clean everything.
Previous owner ran the rear fog light wire like an idiot so i rerouted it properly.
Also ran a 2 gauge wire to the trunk for the battery relocation.
Ran another 16 gauge wire to the trunk to tie into the switched 12v to run the fuel pump and water pump for the AWIC. I'll use the wire as the signal wire for a relay setup since the battery is in the trunk and is much easier then running heavier gauge wire all the way up front.
I figured that should be all the wiring I would need to run to the trunk so I reinstalled the interior after it had finished drying.
The I started putting the 12 valve harness into the car engine bay and getting the waterfall setup again. Then it got late so I quit. Should finish up some more wiring this weekend and then I just need to wait on the clutch and trans to be rebuilt. Then the real building begins.
Apparently the last owner had crabs? Found this guy dead under the carpet.
Fog light wire
Fog light wire, Switched wire, and Battery cable
Another shot of the wires
Interior Pressure Washed and drying. Looks brand new
Center console cleaned and ready to go back in
Interior all back in. Nice and clean. Car no longer smells like ****.
Laying the harness back in. Not going crazy with hiding wires for now. I just want the car to run. Next winter I will do a full wire tuck but for now it just has to look ok.
With the relay box on top of the battery. I plan on removing that since I will have the battery in the trunk so as far as wiring it back in I think I am going to hook all the wires right to the starter since they are right there and run the main battery cable right to the starter and another wire from the alternator right to the starter. Then all I would have to do is run three inline 30amp fuses to the plug that goes into the relay panel and I'm done.
Since I really am not interested in mounting my surge tank under the car and having my water box take up the whole trunk I am considering having a fabricator build this dual tank setup to fit in the spare tire well. Ideas?
Last edited by VRsixGLI; 10-26-2010 at 12:36 AM.
Internets...It's That ****ing Serious
>>>>>No!!!! Buy My Wheels, staggered, cheap, and not from a corvette!!!<<<<<
I haven't been under an R32 to say how similar a surge install would be, but I will say it is nice to have the pump noise outside the car. Plus the fuel lines are already outside the car. I guess if you are keeping your rear seats the noise won't be that bad. There is certainly no performance argument for one or the other; just preference.
I was gonna take a pic of my setup for you but figured it wouldn't apply since I am mk3 and you are R32.
OBD1, Mk3 12v, 3L, HG, 8.5, JE, stock rods, 263, 3"DP to 3" MBS, Kinetic Mani, t3/t4 .63ar, Intercooled, PW39, C2 36# 4 bar, IE 044 surge, Stock intake, Peloquin, AEM truboost/uego/fp, Mocal OC