Do you have a dyno saying that it has made more power, or are you feeling that you have more power?
#1
I know it may sound odd, but my car makes significantly more HP when running off the O2 sensor than it does on the WOT closed loop.
if i were to be able to disable the WOT switch or whatever it would be called, i think its possible that I could make more power.
i do not run LEAN when running in the open loop so it shouldnt be a safety concern.
anyone have thoughts?
Thanks
#2
Do you have a dyno saying that it has made more power, or are you feeling that you have more power?
98' GTI VR6-T | Stock Block and head, ARP Hardware, C2 Stg.2 Software, 9:1 Comp., 22 psi high boost, (NEW)Precision HP6765, Schimmel Performance SR, ATP Mani., TIAL WG, 3" SS Turbo Back exhaust and DP, Custom IC Piping, Greddy 3" IC and Type S BOV, MSD Coils, NGK BKR7E-11 (Gap .035), BFI stg.2 mounts, Preloquin LSD, Dual Stg. BC, LM-2 Wideband, FK Coils, Upgraded Suspension
#3
i have a dyno that shows it. i will try to find it, but i think its on my other computer.
if i can keep the AFRs around 11-12 it makes great power (for 30# injectors)
but if i bury the throttle, it drops down to like 10 or less AFR and it makes less HP.
#4
I forget how these sensors work, if the voltage increases based on throttle angle or decreases. If the voltage increases, you would need to put a resistor in the signal out line of the TPS sensor so that the ECU never sees maximum voltage.
#5
OBD1 TPS is at 4.9-4.96v @ WOT, I think 4.5v should do the trick.
Message me for tuning solutions.
#6
It would be an easy trick, you would want a voltage clamp, not a resistor as I previously stated. If a resistor was used, the ECU would see low voltage all across the throttle position. With Vagcom and the engine off, watch the throttle postion and look at what point it goes into full throttle mode. Last step would to be to measure the voltage output just before it goes into full throttle. Now, if this is a good idea or not is the next question but its very feasible.
#7
If you know anyone with a chip burner then read the chip file and I will take a look and fix it for you.
#8
#9
I'm in Nashville for the next few days. I will post my sheet when I get back.
I did get a pm from a tuner that said the wot switch is in the software and that he could tune it out.
I'm just not sure that is a smart option yet. Either way my car runs very well. It's hard to mess with it. Hahaha.
#10
The tuner that PM you is correct. As soon as you floor it the ecu switches to a different map.If you have a good running map then this is the easiest part of the tune to change.
#11
so after talking to my brother and a friend of mine, im considering adding a set screw or stop block to my throttle body.
there is a large flat area where the throttle cable holder stops against the throttle body. if i simply add a set screw to this or a stop block i can keep the car from going into WOT.
i will NOT get the throttle body to open all the way , but it will be easier to drive the car.
hopefully i can get to this soon.
I will report back what i find.
Dyno day should be Nov 20th. so i hope to have this sorted well before then.
#12
#13
#14
ive spoken to jeff.
the 30# tune runs pig rich on WOT.
thats just the way it is.
under all conditions but WOT it runs perfect.
none of my components are an issue.
therefore disabling WOT is my only option.
#15
Just turn the boost up until the fuel mixture is in spec. With the OBD1 you have to tune the full throttle map to fuel by RPM only. This means you have a set amount of fuel being delivered at each RPM interval. you can either change your feling via the full throttle map or add more air to your A/F mixture. Turn up the boost. The chip file was designed for more air then your giving it.
Last edited by TIGninja; 10-19-2010 at 09:54 AM.
#17
#19
I recently got a Private message about this thread.
I added a small little set screw to the throttle body
i no longer hit WOT and the car runs like a champ.
Jeff said he could sell me a new chip with WOT disabled and would run even better
than my C2 tune, but I declined as this works great.
I just thought I would update. Never did hit that dyno day, but the "butt dyno" says it works
very well.
if you add the set screw, drill the small hole first, dont just run a screw through the plastic as it could
break the TB.
#20
Jhayesvw, thanks again for the response. In the pic listed below I just glued a piece to the throttle body protrusion(circled in red) that the throttle body spring is sprung from and when the throttle body "stop"(arrowed in red) comes up and is fully engaged it would stop it early. It stops it about 3/16th sooner than WOT before and i'm still running super rich(in the process of VAGCOM'ing the actual TPS readings). You said earlier
You mentioning plastic throws me off a little, when i looked at the throttle body I assumed you were talking about the aluminum protrusion(circled in red) but i guess not. Maybe I'm just not stopping it early enough with the 3/16th inch pad i added. If that's the case let me know how much of the travel you cut off. If not could you specify what plastic piece you drilled into to create the "stop."
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Last edited by DubmyRUCA; 03-12-2012 at 11:43 PM.
#21
Is your TB an obd1?
Mine is obd2. I will have to look again but I thought mine was plastic on the throttle cable guide.
#22
Couldnt you just adjust the throttle cable? Im sure that would work just fine and work the same way.
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#23
i dont think so. if you loosen it you'd have slack before the throttle picked up. if you tighten it you'd have a wicked high idle.
#25
Ran a few tests and it appears i'm running super rich when the rpm's climb even when i'm only 75% throttle. Though for sure it was only when i went WOT but i guess not, gonna do a pressure test, might have a boost leak somewhere causing me to run rich. Thanks again
#26
#28
So does this apply the the 30# software for the VR6 only or does the 30# software for the ABA run too rich as well?