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    Thread: A complete write up for removing the AC in a 1984 Rabbit GTI.

    1. Senior Member vdubspeed's Avatar
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      09-11-2002 01:35 AM #1
      I had searched everywhere and found a lot of stuff but upon doing it myself I felt like I ran across to many questions that could have been answered. This is an age old modification(can it even be called one) but I would like to refresh the memories of those who can't remember and shed some light for those about to do it. If I leave anything out I'm sorry but I will try to be specific as possible without losing your interest.
      Project Car: 1984 Rabbit GTI(sweet! )
      Victim for Parts Car: 1985 Early A2 still with CIS and obviously Non AC.
      Stage 1:
      -First have your system drained by a certified air conditioning tech
      -Disconnect the negative wire from the battery
      -Remove two lines going into compressor with a 12 point socket
      -Remove Main line from Compressor to the Condensor. Use PB blaster if tight. This line also has a stabilizer that has two bolts holding it to the rad support
      -Remove Condenser by losing the 2 star nuts at the bottom and unbolting it from the top
      -Disconnect Line from that connects the dryer to inside the car
      -Remove the Dryer which is between the frame rail and inner fender. This is held on by two bolts.
      -Unplug the electrical 2-prong plug
      -Unbolt the mail line that goes from the compressor to inside the car from the strut tower
      -Inside the car go under the passenger side of the dash and remove the panel.
      -Disconnect the two lines from the Evap. These have a factory red glue so they will be tight
      -Back in the engine compartment you can now remove the main two lines by pulling them through the rubber nipples.
      At this point you can still drive the car(if you hooked the negative back up). I took a break at this point so I could gather the parts I needed. So far you have just removed stuff that isn't needed(if you don't want AC). To go any further though you will need these parts.
      Non AC Bottom bracket that bolts to block
      Non AC tension bar that connects upper bracket to Alternator
      Non AC Bracket that bolts to the head
      Non AC water pump pulley
      Non AC crank pulley
      Non AC alternator(the factory plug remained the same for mine. May vary)
      Stage 2.
      -Remove upper timing belt cover.
      -Release tension on alternator and remove the rod and two bolts.
      -Remove alternator belt
      -Cut or remove AC belt by undoing 4 bolts at the crank pulley. Keep pulley off.
      -Unplug alternator
      -Remove alternator by using an allen wrench and removing long pivot bolt.
      -Disconnect Ground from Alternator to engine block
      -Remove compressor(this is tricky!) - there are 3 bolts in the back that are a little tight to get to. There are also two under the bottom.
      -Remove bar that connects compressor bracket to the case. This has two bolts on the case and two on the compressor bracket
      -Remove long bolt that is to the right of the compressor that connects compressor bracket to the block
      -Remove two bolts that connect compressor bracket to water pump and are where the alternator used to be
      -Now are the hiding bolts. Pry back the lower timing cover and you will see one bolt that is threaded on two sides and underneath that one is another bolt. Both are 13mm.
      -Once those have all been undone the compressor bracket will slide forward and out.
      Break. Drink you favorite beverage and stare at women in your neighborhood. Ask the lady for a sandwich. If no lady then keep working. LOL
      This is where the real fun begins
      -The hardest thing in this whole project was making access for the new bolt that the alternator will pivot on. This bolt is bolted to the lower bracket which bolts the block
      -Line up new bottom bracket and see what metal needs to be cut on the timing belt backing plate(you'll now when you get here [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] )
      -I removed the metal by a chisel and hammer but to each his own
      -Install bottom bracket by replacing two "hidden bolts" and one bolt on block
      -Install Alternator and put in pivot bolt be means of the new access hole
      -Remove engine hoist bracket on head by cam pulley
      -Install upper bracket with two bolts on head. The upper bolt will still be there from the hoist bracket and the lower bolt will need to be squeezed in by bending the timing belt backing plate.
      -Remove old water pump pulley and install new one via the three allen bolts. I hold my pullies still by clamping a vise grip to a lip and letting it circle around till it binds itself. Works great.
      -Install new crank pulley with four bolts
      -Install tension bar from upper bracket to alternator
      -Install new belt and tighten up.
      -Plug up alternator
      -Turn on car and hopefully she works good
      This is the textbook version. I had to do more modification so I could cut some corners. But overall this will give you a feel of what is required. I'm sorry it seems so long but really it's just a lot of removing bolts and installing new ones.
      Make sure you have all the stuff you need though before beginning. You will be stranded to you find what you need. If I left anything out please IM me and I will edit this.
      Hope this helps.
      Now here's a on me
      Jason
      Built > Bought
      58 Beetle | 79 Rabbit 20vT | 84 GTI TDI |84 GTI 16vT |12 Golf TDI ----89 325i | 99 QCSB Ram Cummins | 02 Burb 4x4 2500

    2. Member Big CADDY's Avatar
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      09-11-2002 09:35 AM #2
      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      copied and pasted in my journal for my fix it web site.. if you don't mind

    3. Member at4gli's Avatar
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      09-11-2002 09:47 AM #3
      Very Kind. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    4. 09-11-2002 05:30 PM #4
      I am getting ready to do this in a few weeks......I have all the pieces.
      a couple questions:
      I was going to try and re-use my alternator....did you try this ?
      What did you use to plug the holes where the lines go thru the firewall ?
      So far I did remove the support leg to the ac bracket, (held on by starter bolt)
      I had to go back to the donor car and get the shorter top bolt for the starter, once you remove the "support leg", the old bolt doesn't have enough threads to make up the difference of the missing "leg" piece. I didn't want to use washers either.
      Nice write up, brought to attention some situations I didn't think I would have to deal with.
      thanks

    5. Member at4gli's Avatar
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      09-11-2002 08:22 PM #5
      Yes, you can reuse the alternator no probs.
      The "right" way is to weld a couple metal filler plates in. I just filled the Old grommets up with some waterproof insulation, then reinstall them and it will work fine.
      Good note about the top starter bolt being longer. Forget about it and it could actually puncture the oil cooler---I know.

    6. 04-14-2003 08:09 AM #6
      How much weight will the a/c take off?

    7. 04-14-2003 11:21 PM #7
      i guess this means everyone else's AC is dead too? luckily i live in a part of the country where it's not needed....

    8. Member Cubster's Avatar
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      04-15-2003 12:19 AM #8
      I still don't understand the need for such a drawn out explanation. I've given a solution to this problem, has anyone ever tried it? I've been running it for roughly 300 miles with all salvageyard parts, including the belt with no problems. I've driven it pretty hard so I don't see it falling off or failing anytime soon.

    9. Senior Member vdubspeed's Avatar
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      10-08-2005 10:18 PM #9
      the 2 and 1/2 year old bump
      the motor I did this to is LONG gone
      Built > Bought
      58 Beetle | 79 Rabbit 20vT | 84 GTI TDI |84 GTI 16vT |12 Golf TDI ----89 325i | 99 QCSB Ram Cummins | 02 Burb 4x4 2500

    10. Member roboink's Avatar
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      07-06-2010 04:53 PM #10
      Give me a link to your solution..I'm thinking about doing it...but want the easiest and less parts to use and still look and work good.

    11. Member wantacad's Avatar
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      07-06-2010 05:17 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by roboink View Post
      Give me a link to your solution..I'm thinking about doing it...but want the easiest and less parts to use and still look and work good.




      you talking to the dude that posted this up 8 years ago?
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      You're new here but don't be a DORK.....
      Cheers, WWR.
      Quote Originally Posted by rte7x9 View Post
      Don't swap if you can't weld or fabricate. It's not a trivial task just to bolt everything up. There's a lot of nut-scratching involved. Take your time and do it right.

    12. n00b onlyatbenco's Avatar
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      10-22-2012 04:42 PM #12

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