Just looks like the coating coming off to me, but I'm no expert.
The only wear on them is just from spinning it over trying to start it, correct?
Here's some pictures of the bearings. After taking a second look I think I may have just been a little paranoid and this looks like just normal wear. Anyhow, the red boxes are the top half of #1 and #6 rods which look the most worn. Either way I've got new bearings that'll be going in. But I may get the crank checked and re-polished. Thinking back to when I picked it up there was some surface rust on the journals from sitting in the humidity of this past summer. He quickly put the crank on the lathe and polished the journals before I took it with me after with I immediately coated them with some oil.
quick question: did you prime the oil pump before starting it the first time?
Yeah, I used Royal Purple's assembly lube and before I started the motor I pulled the plugs and disconnected the ECU (no fuel or spark) and cranked the engine 3 or 4 times for 10 seconds each. I was really careful during assembly with dirt and dust and all...
No... never been able to keep it running long enough. Longest I had it kinda running was maybe 4-5 minutes. Like I said, I'm pretty sure it's just my paranoia but I just wanted some other opinions.
Last time I had to rip open a motor that was fresh the bearings look very similar. Only worn in the center of the bearing surface. If there is no deep scratches or pitting then I would not be worried as you never got to break it in. Are you swapping the crank or just the crank trigger wheel? If the crank is being swapped I would get new bearings and plasti gauge them to be on the safe side. Good luck man, sorry you had all these problems, can't wait to see it driving.
Yeah I'm using the same crank. I bought a new trigger wheel from the dealer. I'll still be installing new rod and crank bearings because I wasn't able to keep track of which ones fell from where... BTW, I don't recommend removing a crank with the motor still in the car. It's a little tricky to hold it all together while loosening the main caps. Suppose it would have gone smoother with help, but I couldn't wait any longer.
Well since I personally hate finding posts that explain problems without solutions I think i can finally put this one to bed. Motor is finally (yes I know how long it took ) back together and the running issue was solved with the new crank trigger wheel. Just hearing the sound of a smooth running VR again and I'm high as a kite
Thanks all for watching and a special thanks to rallyedude for pointing me in the right direction
glad it worked out for you
Bumping an old thread yes, but just letting you know I'm scared shitless of turning the key on my project.
If you've got a spot of time and are okay with my popping by to ask you a few questions and seeing the car I'd love to see her up and running. I live nearbyish in Scarborough
Shoot me am PM, I'm sure to be in the garage this weekend.
Last edited by Scotty_2.0; 11-10-2011 at 09:16 PM.
Good call on the MBS 3" setup.
Can the MK2 rear beam not be fitted with carriers/calipers for a disc setup?
Are there advantages to using the MK3 rear beam?
Gonna be sending out the axle for blasting and powder coating this week I hope.
Def planning on hitting the dyno this year. Doin work right now to get it ready again, although I still need some reasonable insurance to make it happen...
I don't think the insurance here in Canada is much different from the US. Mainly it's my driving record that's to blame. I'm too embarassed to even say what I pay for my Mk5, but they wanted an additonal $3300/yr for my Mk2 which was strictly for liability - no collision.... WTF. I only drive the car 6months of the year, as a recreational vehicle
Last edited by Scotty_2.0; 03-06-2012 at 12:24 PM.
Got ya i was there not so many years ago. 3300 for liability that's crazy. Hope everything works out. I'll be watching for progress, and will be posting up my build as soon as I get all my stuff together. I got lucky and picked up a bvh off a friend of mine already built. Picked up a short block with a spun bearing. still need all gaskets, cams, having the block done at Schimmel performance. All bearings,pistons and machine work will be done there.
I had a 91 GTI when I lived in Guelph, paying about $75/month. Moved to Yonge/Davisville and it jumped to $150/month, got a MKIII 2.0 Jetta and it went up to $160. Moved to Thornhill and it went up to $190. I was 27 when when I moved to Toronto, clean record and I'm almost 31 now. My record is still clean and insurance still sucks.
No tickets/claims at all in that time, purely based off my address. Not sure what insurance is like in the US, but I doubt it's this bad.
wow after going over this thread, man machine shops really get people by the balls. I've had a similar experience where schimmels shop on my 1.8t reported back to me that my crank had a broken tooth on the oil pump sprocket, they replaced it with one from my old crank (i had spun a rod bearing)
This lead to the new old sprocket spinning on the crank not powering the oil pump once I had the motor in and all back together a month or so down the line. Luckily I had a short sweet fuel pressure gauge, but it was on a stand alone car. They made it right by welding the oil pump sprocket to the crank, and would make it right in the future if it would have failed even further, I would have had to assume.
But just simple stuff as that goes to show you that mistakes do happen and you can really be pulling your hair out trying to figure out stuff when experts make simple careless mistakes, that you don't expect when you're laying down benjamins.
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