After you have polished the windshield etc wipe it down with straight white vinegar to get rid of any polishing oils.
local shop (props to pak shak) recommended to me several products and a brief howto for a noob detailing kit awhile back. (menzerna sip, menzerna final polish, no rinse, rejex)
i will be the proud owner of a new car in a coupla months.
is it recommended to apply a good sealant (like rejex) once i take ownership? also, are the products i listed adequate for my new car?
Well, I have two cars that need some TLC -- a 2001 VW GTI GLX (tornado red) and a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Limited (regal blue pearl).
The GTI is in pretty good shape -- it has some swirls and minor scratches that could be buffed out, but looks pretty good for an 11-year-old car.
The Subie, on the other hand, has bad swirl marks and a number of deep scratches -- not to the metal, but they need some work. To add to it, someone sideswiped me the other day leaving a bunch of white paint across three panels.
I've never done any detailing beyond simple handwashing, claying, and waxing using a cleaner/wax. Considering the cost of detailing, I would prefer to get the equipment necessary to do the job so I can do it myself in the future and ultimately save some money.
I would like to do a decent job, but I'm not looking for show-car quality results. I'm also all about value -- since I won't be detailing professionally and I would guess I would use the stuff perhaps a couple of times per year, I don't necessarily need professional-level equipment. Just what it takes to get the job done.
Based on the criteria I've laid out, could you recommend a package that would fit my needs well? I expect it will include a random orbital buffer, a number of foam polishing pads, and some different polishes. I've looked through a number of sites, and the choices are making my head spin a bit.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by dts; 09-14-2011 at 10:23 PM.
Here are pics of the Subaru.
This one is of the front fender and shows a number of scratches (the car is dirty in this picture):
This one is where the car sideswiped me the other day (again, the car is dirty and that's white paint that's on the car, it's not scratched to the primer):
I cleaned the car today (it was raining yesterday) in an effort to get pictures of the swirls, but the lighting is poor and my camera isn't very good. Here are two shots of the doors, the first without flash and the second with flash (the swirls and light scratches are easily visible to the eye):
My wife has the GTI and she didn't return until after dark last night (tonight, too), so I don't have pics. But the paint is in much better shape -- a good claying and a treatment for light swirls would probably do the trick.
Insofar as budget is concerned, I'm going to be a bit wishy washy and say I don't need the best stuff out there by any means, but I don't want to cheap out and have to spend more money later to make up for it -- I just want what is necessary to do the job. If pressed, let's play with $200 and see if we can make something work with that.
thanks for the pics, here is the kit I would suggest.
also claying will not remove scratches or swirls.
here is the kit.
I'm working on a black 2004 Jetta, and I had a question (since I've never worked on the feared black paint)
Wondering what I need to do to correct the finish. I have the mostly Menzerna products (all from DD): Super Intensive Polish, Micro Polish and Power Gloss.
I also need to order more pads for my DeWalt Rotary. I have a 4 1/2 in backing plate, so should I be ordering new 5.5" pads? And which ones would you think I would get the most use out of? (used to borrow backing plates until I moved). I also swear that you used to carry more plates to match your pad sizes.
More generic questions:
Can I use an APC like Adams or Meguiars to clean off stubborn deposits on paint like bugs (and why the big price difference? I use Adams now)
Is using your uber sponge safe for general washing instead of using a wool mit?
I wanted to put in an order tonight
Finally have some sunshine on a day when I have time available to do this project!
Just to refresh your memory, I bought a package from you (Porter 7424xp dual action buffer, orange, green, blue and black uber pads, Menzerna SI 1500 and SF 4000, Glanz wax, and microfiber towels) to work on my blue Subaru Legacy pictured a few posts up.
Have a couple of quick questions:
--Is there a temperature below which I should not do this? It's currently in the fifties and not supposed to get above the low 60s today or tomorrow.
--Wash and clay first, then I'm assuming I should start with the least aggressive pad I think necessary and then go from there? So it would be green with SI 1500 (then look at my results to see if I need to use orange), blue with SF 4000, black with glanz wax, and buff it dry with microfiber.
Let me know if my technique needs tweaking! TIA
Got five minutes into claying the car when I got a phone call from my daughter's school: your daughter has a fever and has to come home. Please come pick her up.
So much for doing my little project.
Today's my first available day since then, and it's even cooler than it was -- looks like a high in the low- to mid-50s; right now it's in the upper 30s.
Will these products work well at these temperatures, or should I wait for it to warm up some more?
Also could still use a critique of my suggested approach listed above....
Last edited by dts; 10-28-2011 at 09:48 AM.
In for the minimum temperature question... up here it's -15deg C today (5deg F). Probably a bit warmer in my garage, but not by much. Obviously won't be doing anything today, but maybe if it warms up a bit in the next couple of weeks... (perhaps 40 F?). The thought of applying friction and heat to cold paintwork seems ill-advised at best.
For the record, 7424xp, menzerna polishes and lake country hydro tech pads.
i just got the bumper on my excursion repainted to match the rest of the car and he said i cant wax it for 90ish days. could i use a spray wax? and the only thing besides that would be is there any way to put a clear wrap on it to keep bugs and rocks from ruining it?
Thanks Phil for the earlier response.
One more question - is it always necessary to use a sealant? When I am done polishing my car I use Chemical Guys EZ Glaze. Reason I ask is that my car is garaged and I never drive it in the rain. I drive it, it gets dusty, so then I wash and use the glaze again.
I wash and reglaze my car every 2 weeks or so, which can be after as little as 20 miles of dry driving The aim is when swirls start building up, I will repolish.
Should I still be using a sealant anyway, and can I reglaze over it? If so, I have narrowed my choices down to Menzerna Power Lock or Chemical Guys Black Light Hybrid. Which one of those would work best for a Mazda (thin paint) metallic red with the glaze I use?
PS Apologies for the one question turning out to be three.
I like the Menzerna Power Lock.
its not a bad idea to put a coat of wax or seal the car. its adds protection to it.
below is a photo of power lock on a black MB ML350 we just did.
What polish would you recommend for a one-step polish? I was looking at Menzerna PowerFinish as I've heard and read good things about it.
I won't mind if swirls aren't 100% gone, but if they are 90% gone, I'll be really happy (all cars in the household are daily driven and service washed ) I guess once I get them all good looking, I'll print out some "DO NOT WASH" signs, laminate them and tell my family to put them on when they go into service.
BTW, awesome work!