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    Thread: Slow but hopefully trusty 16Vg60 build

    1. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      12-22-2010 08:54 PM #26
      Holy guacamole. I have a reason to update. My man at work was afraid of the rear charger bracket. Too abstract. I took it to Yoda and he reported 45 minutes of setup tapping and shimming. Apparently it was placed on the table like so and a long end mill swiped it down. I asked for .275" to be taken off. .250" for the plate and .025" for gasketry.



      As you can see here, without a gasket the bolts are off-center. But who cares, it will work!



      Pictures!








      Next step is to get this threaded in the plate and a clearance hole thru the bracket.
      Last edited by still_a_G; 12-24-2010 at 09:30 AM.

    2. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      12-22-2010 08:57 PM #27
      Oh yeah, the hole there, I had to do some searching but finally found a 35mm plug from Advance Auto ONLINE it's a Dorman part #02523. Fits perfect.

    3. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      12-29-2010 11:05 PM #28
      The uh side coolant port had some challenges for me that I was not aware of. They are primarily because I didn't want to use an adapter. First of all, the top-left hole is very close to the sensor port so a regular bolt can't be used, the bolt head interferes with the plastic housing. And secondly, the sensor connector is too tall to fit in this location.

      Here, you can see how close the sensor is to the head casting. It shouldn't be a problem to cut the connector down though.


      For the hole in the top-left location, I found that a NPT plug is necessary. A straight thread set-screw won't seal for the long term. An interference fit is required (via tapered threads). You will have to chase the hole with a 1/8" NPT tap. This is very easy because the stock hole is 10mm x 1.0, which is very similar similar to a 1/8" NPT thread. The stock hole has 25.4 threads per inch where the 1/8" NPT standard is 27 threads per inch.

      The hole in the bottom-left location can just take a 10mm x 1.0 bolt with a compression washer to seal it.


      Since I'm using Megasquirt, I put a GM coolant temp sensor in the top-right location. This one is from a Saturn. AC DELCO PN: #2131138 Saturn SW1 CLT Sensor. The thread for this is also 1/8" NPT so you will have to chase this hole as well if you want it to work properly. Some people just force the 1/8 NPT into the 10mm x 1.0 holes. I wouldn't advise that but I won't say it doesn't work.




      So to re-cap. The top-left hole needs to be re-threaded. Just make sure to check the thread engagement of the plug as you are tapping it. A proper seal will require a few threads to be force fit. So you DO NOT want to tap too deep. You will leak. Not really hard to do if you pay attention and just take a few seconds to check.

    4. 01-11-2011 12:57 PM #29
      awesome thread


    5. 03-14-2011 01:02 PM #30
      im sent

    6. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-16-2011 02:16 PM #31
      I like what you have done with that Escort tensioner. When I was designing mine, I had a few radial torsional tensioners from various cars in hand, but none were even close to what I needed, so I designed around the G60 tensioner/dampener setup.

      I made mounts and relocated my tensioner pivot shaft backward from the G60 bracket to get more wrap around the crank and clear some other idlers and such (i.e. my config is much different) However, due to some very tight clearance issues between the Frame rail due to this relocation, I am strongly considering looking back into using a radial unit.

      Can you tell me the distance from centerline to centerline?

      Thanks,
      S
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    7. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      03-16-2011 10:34 PM #32
      Looks about 3.675". I was just about to drill the requisite hole in the charger bracket so that I can put a second pin stop in it. But the fiance is giving me all kinds of crap for working in the garage too much. I've just been repairing vehicles so it's BS but that's life.

    8. Member sdezego's Avatar
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      03-17-2011 10:01 AM #33
      Thanks! BTW, I know how it is with other obligations. That's the reason my build has taken so long..
      Build: Project sc2020

      My G60 now on MS3 | 4Cyl Torque Plate Rental | 02M Mounts

    9. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      03-17-2011 10:39 PM #34
      Got a few minutes downstairs....Drilled the clearance hole for the bolt.

      That's a 1/2-13 SHCS. The nut is the perfect thickness t to meet up with the pin. One of the hex flats serves as the bottom stopper.

      Here is the tensioner in the relaxed position:




      Here's the head of the bolt:



      Here's the nut of the bolt:



      Here's how the pin hits at the bottom:



      And then at the top:


    10. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      03-17-2011 10:47 PM #35
      Here's some more pictures of the block off plate. This is an aluminum 1/2" NPT to 3/4" hose fitting. I chose aluminum because I can solder it to the plate if it starts to leak.

      I ground down one of the corners, bolted them together then put a pilot hole in the middle:




      Then took the bracket off and put a larger clearance hole in it:



      Then I put a larger hole in the plate and threaded it for the fitting:






      You can see the rear alternator bracket in this one:

      Last edited by still_a_G; 03-17-2011 at 10:51 PM.

    11. Member gillano's Avatar
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      03-17-2011 11:10 PM #36
      awesome...my favorite engine combo

    12. 03-20-2011 07:28 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by still_a_G View Post
      Here's my belt routing. When the engine is done I will do a build thread. The tensioner is from a 98 Escort. Of course the question is will the spring rate be enough to keep enough tension on the charger. I'll measure what it is and determine what the design load is when that time comes. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed for now. Alignment is damn near perfect, btw. Oh, that's a CS130 alternator. I'll provide bracket details when done. It appears to protrude less than the ABA so it shouldn't t rub the radiator.

      I'd just like to note that when doing your routing, typical practice is to achieve 180 degrees of belt wrap, no more, no less. And the correct amount of tension is the value that provides enough tension to keep the belt from slipping at max operating temperature and load. No more, no less.

      Escort routing:



      When you used the escort tensioner were you able to find out the tension that it creates on the belt? i know that my old 1.8T had a tensioner like that, any reason why you went with this one over the 1.8T?

    13. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      07-09-2011 10:00 PM #38
      I don't have a 1.8t? Don't know what to tell you.


      Quick pics, camera just broke, all pixelated. Will explain later this later.

      Pulley on the tensioner is a modified 3000GT timing belt idler. Torque at the tensioner is 33 ft lbs. Tension is slightly loose.




      Last edited by still_a_G; 07-12-2011 at 09:10 PM.

    14. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      07-12-2011 09:15 PM #39
      Alrighty, first some better pictures then I will try to expand on tension and whatnot. As I said above, I had to use a different pulley. The original big one just didn't want to get out of its own way so it was hard to get a belt on it. I should say, the way this tensioner is fixed is not ideal. I am relying on mostly the shear strength of the pins that are cast on the tensioner housing. These are actually designed to break off. It should be fixed by means of surface friction....like wheels. If this cracks apart I will weld a flat surface to the charger bracket to create a mounting surface.





      Last edited by still_a_G; 07-12-2011 at 09:20 PM.

    15. Member Scirocco_Clan_Man's Avatar
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      07-26-2011 02:28 AM #40
      loving the creativity!
      keep up the good work

    16. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      09-27-2011 12:27 AM #41
      I intend to drive this Corrado 100K miles, 0 degrees or less if I have to so I did a little something over the exhaust manifold....had to make a custom fitted bracket for the lower portion of this ABF heat shield. Not sure if there is another solution; didn't look for one. Note that the 2 bolts in the back of the heat shield do not match the studs in the manifold. They are there simply to plug the holes.

      Also made some custom stainless supports for the intake manifold:







      Last edited by still_a_G; 09-27-2011 at 12:42 AM.

    17. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      09-27-2011 12:37 AM #42
      Then I found a coolant hose at Advance Auto that serves nicely as a valve cover breather hose, I have to source a straight section of 1" ID hose to reach the catch can. This is mocked up, you get the idea. This ebay can will have 2 big vapor intake holes and 1 exit hole to the engine intake. I will have to plug the puny holes at the top of it.

      BTW, the new beetle breather + the NPT block breather I added do not equal the capacity of the stock 16V block breather. Keep that in mind as you build yours....





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      09-27-2011 03:09 PM #43
      im inspired

    19. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      09-30-2011 08:30 AM #44
      Where's your build thread man? I wanna see what you're working with.

    20. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      11-01-2011 10:41 PM #45
      Decided to run NA for a bit.





      Put a RAM laptop stand in. Having a laptop float around on the passenger seat was PITA.




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      11-20-2011 07:25 AM #46
      rebuilding the blower?
      looks good!!!!

    22. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      11-20-2011 10:33 AM #47
      Heh, my charger has been to BBM 3 times already. I just want to get a good tune without it and see how much HP it runs NA.

      I've been busy buttoning it all together. The tranny is going on and dropping in this week.

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      11-22-2011 08:42 PM #48
      yea i got one goin out soon too...just ordered my belt, all cogged system...tough to find a belt!! I'm sooo busy right now I'm looking to hire to finish...or i'll wait till spring...

    24. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      11-22-2011 10:40 PM #49
      Would love to help but I gotta get this beastie out of the ex's garage!

    25. Member still_a_G's Avatar
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      12-04-2011 09:11 PM #50
      Got the Polo shift box parts so that I can convert to the new style 02J stuff easily.

      Used some Dow Corning high vacuum silicone grease that I found a work to lube the assembly.





      clips




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