I don't have a 1.8t? Don't know what to tell you.
Quick pics, camera just broke, all pixelated. Will explain later this later.
Pulley on the tensioner is a modified 3000GT timing belt idler. Torque at the tensioner is 33 ft lbs. Tension is slightly loose.
Alrighty, first some better pictures then I will try to expand on tension and whatnot. As I said above, I had to use a different pulley. The original big one just didn't want to get out of its own way so it was hard to get a belt on it. I should say, the way this tensioner is fixed is not ideal. I am relying on mostly the shear strength of the pins that are cast on the tensioner housing. These are actually designed to break off. It should be fixed by means of surface friction....like wheels. If this cracks apart I will weld a flat surface to the charger bracket to create a mounting surface.
loving the creativity!
keep up the good work
I intend to drive this Corrado 100K miles, 0 degrees or less if I have to so I did a little something over the exhaust manifold....had to make a custom fitted bracket for the lower portion of this ABF heat shield. Not sure if there is another solution; didn't look for one. Note that the 2 bolts in the back of the heat shield do not match the studs in the manifold. They are there simply to plug the holes.
Also made some custom stainless supports for the intake manifold:
Then I found a coolant hose at Advance Auto that serves nicely as a valve cover breather hose, I have to source a straight section of 1" ID hose to reach the catch can. This is mocked up, you get the idea. This ebay can will have 2 big vapor intake holes and 1 exit hole to the engine intake. I will have to plug the puny holes at the top of it.
BTW, the new beetle breather + the NPT block breather I added do not equal the capacity of the stock 16V block breather. Keep that in mind as you build yours....
Okay here is what i was thinking on the oil breather and all. Your running a catch can from the oil cap.
Do you think it would help with some of the oil vapors and to help with keeping the apex seals lubed, would it be a good idea to feed that back into the intake tube and have it go that route? This is just a thought, however I don't know how much vapor will be coming from the oil cap by itself as this is the only crankcase vent I have going right now. I was going to consider adding a fitting to the valve cover to help some more.
However, with some more thoughts about this could the suction from the intake be enough to help with venting also?
As for the factory crank case breather set up I have removed that and am using the BBM block off kit and rear charger bracket. For the addition 2" hole that is there I have put a freeze plug in it and thought about taping it and using it for the oil return line.
looking for thoughts or other ideas
I'm not sure if the suction will help pull fumes out of the block but that is a good thought. The only thing you can do is try it and see if your gaskets don't start leaking.
If you pull a lot of oil and if also use the re-route tube you will end up blowing solid oil into the charger and some of it will even end up on the air filter. Not much science here, just need to make sure the apex seals don't go dry and that the block does not get pressurized.
You just gave me an idea. Since I have two breather ports, maybe I will run 1 into the charger and the other into the intake manifold.
Okay question on tapping the block. Since I have never gotten my grubby hands on a PG block could you take a picture as to where its tapped for the oil return. I have the feed coming from the back of the head. Is that a good place?
As for the oil breather I don't have the return boost hose coming back to the charger. I have blocked that off and was gonna tap it and put a barbed fitting into that plate and route the hose from the oil cap. However there is quite a bit of crankcase pressure that comes out of that little hole on the oil cap. So with that now in mind i am going to consider putting a vent in the valve cover also route that somewhere else so it won't put to much back into the intake and over do it
The "ex" is now my fiance. Strange how that works. We've been looking at houses. The smallest that we like is this one. A 4 bed but it has a radiant floor heated garage. Not much has happened lately except that I've relocated the battery to the trunk area.
Hey, thanks bud. Yes, remaining loyal to this car is always an exercise in conflict and commitment. Would be much easier to go out and buy an Elise (or get a younger and curvier companion). but at the end of the day that requires quitting. Never been one much for that! The house, best part; 9 ft ceilings in the basement. What I do with 9 ft ceilings....pics to come I'm sure.
I know, the coil mount is huge! It mounts to the motor mount bracket. It's mostly aluminum except for the base plate and the stock ford coil mount on top. I pulled all of the AL bits from the scrap bin at work and slapped it together. I can grab the coil and shake the engine. Vibration is of no concern.
That picture is showing the old 8v setup I ran until the timing belt sprocket fell off. So it's a Ford EDIS sensor and an EDIS wheel. I am going to use the same sensor but the mounting plate needs to be shaved thinner. The Ebay wheel is about half the size of the Ford wheel so the sensor needs to sit closer to the engine for the best reading. The mounting position is the same though. I'll check the wheel OD later this week.
Towed it to the new house so now back to work.
Relocated the FPR to the bay because I don't want it vibrating around at the end of the fuel rail:
And then I relocated one of the brake lines on the MC with a banjo bolt to make room for the TB return. Now that heater hose is in the way. You'll also notice that I got flexible hydraulic tubing installed on the brake reservoir. Still gonna have trouble keeping the kinks out.
Eventually I'm going to try venting the bypass to avoid re-routing it. I'd like to use a silencer if I do so. So either way there needs to be more space under the throttle body. I found that the heater hose that goes to the side of the block getting in the way. So I searched the auto parts store and found one that wraps it back and out of the way:
And hooked up:
This is a Festo exhaust silencer. This is not how it will connect, I need a 1.25" barbed to 1" FNPT adapter: