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    Thread: I told myself I would never own a diesel ever again...

    1. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      06-20-2011 04:31 PM #106
      Thanks. whats the trick? put a hose clamp to keep it from falling out? When I craw under the dash I dont see the shaft moving under there. It just moves the top part of the shaft?

    2. 06-20-2011 04:41 PM #107
      may have pushed the column downward. yank on wheel towards you and tighten nut?
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    3. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      06-20-2011 05:58 PM #108
      yea...the play does get much better once I pull the wheel towards me. But that nut is really really tight right now and I dont think I want to go any tighter. Any other idea's?

    4. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      06-20-2011 10:43 PM #109
      got it fixed....just made a bushing and stuck it in there. Hope it holds up.

    5. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-28-2011 08:51 PM #110
      attempted to shorten my axle today...but I ran out of wire after a big fiasco of trying to get it done before dark. will have pictures asap.

    6. Member _WCHLVR_'s Avatar
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      07-28-2011 09:06 PM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      ... shorten my axle today....
      Patience Bear Waits for pics...


    7. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-28-2011 09:22 PM #112
      Photobucket

      Will have "after pictures" as soon I get it done. prolly tomorrow morning.

    8. Member _WCHLVR_'s Avatar
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      07-28-2011 09:57 PM #113
      Looks like you got it sorted just fine.

      How much did you end up taking out of the axles?

    9. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-28-2011 10:22 PM #114
      Not much at all maybe 5mm. I figured thats all It needed And Im only doing the pass side. It seems to be the only one binding when I turn I forget which way but I feel it over there.
      Last edited by Dozier; 07-28-2011 at 10:25 PM.

    10. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 09:43 AM #115
      all done.

      Photobucket
      Photobucket

    11. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 11:31 AM #116
      Do you guys think I should flip my tie rod? Do you think its binding at this angle?

      Photobucket

    12. Member _WCHLVR_'s Avatar
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      07-29-2011 02:02 PM #117
      Looks fairly OE to me! LOL

      Nice work on the axle!

    13. Member keeton's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 02:23 PM #118
      Nah...it'll be fine.


      I flipped mine but I think I may have brought them down too far. When I hit bumps I feel it trying to pull the steering wheel out of my hands.

    14. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 04:04 PM #119
      Quote Originally Posted by _WCHLVR_ View Post
      Looks fairly OE to me! LOL

      Nice work on the axle!
      Thanks buddy!

      keeton
      Nah...it'll be fine.


      I flipped mine but I think I may have brought them down too far. When I hit bumps I feel it trying to pull the steering wheel out of my hands

      But seriously. flipping your tie rod made it worse?

    15. Member keeton's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 04:25 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post


      But seriously. flipping your tie rod made it worse?
      Yeah...seriously. I dunno why. I've done it before and been fine. I'm going to bring them up a little (get them level with the ground) and realign it and see if it's better. Right now they're at a slight angle upwards towards the rack.


      Sent using Tapatalk.

    16. 07-29-2011 04:33 PM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by keeton View Post
      Yeah...seriously. I dunno why. I've done it before and been fine. I'm going to bring them up a little (get them level with the ground) and realign it and see if it's better. Right now they're at a slight angle upwards towards the rack.


      Sent using Tapatalk.

      It will do that if you didn't lower your balljoint. You can't just do one or the other. They are meant to be done together. When will people learn
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    17. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 04:37 PM #122
      Oh right on. thanks for the information.

      I was thinking of buying this from BFI but I think $32 is kinda high for a drill bit and sleeve's/bushings
      http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1918367..._2166_29632002


      Does anyone know where I could get the sleeve's/bushing's? and does anyone know if they are tapered like they should be?

    18. Member keeton's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 04:54 PM #123
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      Oh right on. thanks for the information.

      I was thinking of buying this from BFI but I think $32 is kinda high for a drill bit and sleeve's/bushings
      http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1918367..._2166_29632002


      Does anyone know where I could get the sleeve's/bushing's? and does anyone know if they are tapered like they should be?
      I used heim joints and longer bolts with spacers because just flipping them didn't bring them down far enough. I don't know if you'll have that problem or not, but there ya go anyway.

      Quote Originally Posted by rod_knock View Post
      It will do that if you didn't lower your balljoint. You can't just do one or the other. They are meant to be done together. When will people learn
      Well that makes sense...but don't be like that. I've never done it to a Mk1 until I did it on my Jetta, and when I did it to my Mustang, I didn't have to lower the ball joint to make it work because of the way the front end is made.

      for the info anyways.


      Sent using Tapatalk.
      Last edited by keeton; 07-29-2011 at 05:02 PM.

    19. Member _WCHLVR_'s Avatar
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      07-29-2011 05:01 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      Oh right on. thanks for the information.

      I was thinking of buying this from BFI but I think $32 is kinda high for a drill bit and sleeve's/bushings
      http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1918367..._2166_29632002


      Does anyone know where I could get the sleeve's/bushing's? and does anyone know if they are tapered like they should be?
      Just pick up a flip kit for a late model bug.... they are exactly the same. Bugpack makes some... should be less than $20 from your local VW shop. You"ll still need a drill bit.

      EDIT- If you know anyone with a tapered reamer, you can tapper the other side of the spindle for a simple flip. For a daily driver this will work just fine.
      Last edited by _WCHLVR_; 07-29-2011 at 05:14 PM.

    20. Member _WCHLVR_'s Avatar
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      07-29-2011 05:12 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by keeton View Post
      ...but don't be like that....
      Unfortunately it's the only way he knows how to act.

      While his point has some validity there is one piece that tends not to be discussed-

      While it is best to have the control arm and tie rods running parallel there is a huge VW design flaw that makes lowering any MK1 less than perfect-

      No matter what you do or what height your at the tie rods are never parallel with the rack (looking down on it). The lack of length in the steering arm of spindle causes the tie rods to run at angle at any height. This angle causes the rods to pull on the steering arms inward as you get lower (aka toe out). Couple this with drastic control arm angle and you get massive toe out on compression.

      As I understand it- MK2 spindles (after much modification) can help lessen this effect but it is not a cure.

    21. 07-29-2011 05:24 PM #126
      Quote Originally Posted by _WCHLVR_ View Post

      While it is best to have the control arm and tie rods running parallel there is a huge MacPherson strut equipped car design flaw that makes lowering any MacPherson strut equipped car less than perfect-

      .
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    22. Member keeton's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 05:31 PM #127
      Thanks for the explanation Terry. That helps me understand my issue.


      Sent using Tapatalk.

    23. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      07-29-2011 09:22 PM #128
      Quote Originally Posted by _WCHLVR_ View Post
      EDIT- If you know anyone with a tapered reamer, you can tapper the other side of the spindle for a simple flip. For a daily driver this will work just fine.

      Yea my buddy has one of those. I think Ill give it a shot.. Thanks for everything Terry.

      Oh and BTW Ive got to shorten the driver's axle to. Didnt notice it was binding because the other side was binding so badly.

    24. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 05:15 PM #129
      ok I got the other axle cut down and put back together and flipped the tie rod ends.

      BUT now... my steering seems to be really darty. I know how to allign cars the tape measure way. I put the wheels at about 1/8 toed in and the car seems to pull heavy to the left. I put everything on dead even the car is all over the road.

      Could this be because of the tie rod flip? Please help me out if you can.

      thanks for everyones time

      pics for clicks

      DSC_0021
      Last edited by Dozier; 08-01-2011 at 05:36 PM.

    25. 08-01-2011 06:48 PM #130
      did you put on balljoint spacers?
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    26. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 07:52 PM #131
      no.. but I did correct the tie rods and everything is fine now.. I guess that is what I get for trying to fix something that isnt broken. I still cant figure out why the control arm and the tie rod need to be parallel. Care to explain?

    27. Member MK1RollingCoal's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 07:58 PM #132
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      no.. but I did correct the tie rods and everything is fine now.. I guess that is what I get for trying to fix something that isnt broken. I still cant figure out why the control arm and the tie rod need to be parallel. Care to explain?
      Bumpsteer.

    28. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 08:03 PM #133
      But what causes the bumpsteer?

    29. Member MK1RollingCoal's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 08:06 PM #134
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      But what causes the bumpsteer?
      The angle being different.
      You mess up the geometry and it gets all thrown off if they aren't parallel.
      Stuff I learn when reading magazines O.o
      That's all I know.

    30. 08-01-2011 08:09 PM #135
      Quote Originally Posted by MK1RollingCoal View Post
      The angle being different.
      You mess up the geometry and it gets all thrown off if they aren't parallel.
      Stuff I learn when reading magazines O.o
      I like the new guy already.
      .
      Dozier.
      It's been discussed to the point where if you can't find the reason for the bumpsteer, you're just lazy. Search.
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    31. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 08:10 PM #136
      cool..you would think that all the tie rod does is simply steer the car.

    32. Member MK1RollingCoal's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 08:11 PM #137
      Quote Originally Posted by rod_knock View Post
      I like the new guy already.
      .
      Dozier.
      It's been discussed to the point where if you can't find the reason for the bumpsteer, you're just lazy. Search.
      Thanks xD

      And if you do search it you get plenty of explanations of why.

    33. Member MK1RollingCoal's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 08:12 PM #138
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      cool..you would think that all the tie rod does is simply steer the car.
      And you throw the geometry when you hit a bump it doesn't move with the control arm and bam it kicks one way or another.
      It doesn't have to be perfect, just as close as possible.

    34. 08-01-2011 08:13 PM #139
      Quote Originally Posted by Dozier View Post
      cool..you would think that all the tie rod does is simply steer the car.
      Things work together to make the car go straight, turn, and not rip the steering wheel out of your hands. Suspension geometry is a crazy thing.
      I'm a giant.. My name is Matias
      Quote Originally Posted by WackyWabbitRacer View Post
      Yes...but let's pretend there is no internet and you have to fix the problem by thinking through a solution.
      Tell me your solution, and then I will give you my idea to fix the problem.
      Cheers, WWR.

    35. Member Dozier's Avatar
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      08-01-2011 10:10 PM #140
      Now I know. Thanks everyone

      And Rod knock....Its easier to ask a question then to look for the answer for hours. I dont have time for that. I have a life . Its not lazy its a smarter way to find the answer.
      Last edited by Dozier; 08-01-2011 at 10:15 PM.

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