Thanks. whats the trick? put a hose clamp to keep it from falling out? When I craw under the dash I dont see the shaft moving under there. It just moves the top part of the shaft?
Oh right on. thanks for the information.
I was thinking of buying this from BFI but I think $32 is kinda high for a drill bit and sleeve's/bushings
Does anyone know where I could get the sleeve's/bushing's? and does anyone know if they are tapered like they should be?
for the info anyways.
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Last edited by keeton; 07-29-2011 at 05:02 PM.
EDIT- If you know anyone with a tapered reamer, you can tapper the other side of the spindle for a simple flip. For a daily driver this will work just fine.
Last edited by _WCHLVR_; 07-29-2011 at 05:14 PM.
While his point has some validity there is one piece that tends not to be discussed-
While it is best to have the control arm and tie rods running parallel there is a huge VW design flaw that makes lowering any MK1 less than perfect-
No matter what you do or what height your at the tie rods are never parallel with the rack (looking down on it). The lack of length in the steering arm of spindle causes the tie rods to run at angle at any height. This angle causes the rods to pull on the steering arms inward as you get lower (aka toe out). Couple this with drastic control arm angle and you get massive toe out on compression.
As I understand it- MK2 spindles (after much modification) can help lessen this effect but it is not a cure.
ok I got the other axle cut down and put back together and flipped the tie rod ends.
BUT now... my steering seems to be really darty. I know how to allign cars the tape measure way. I put the wheels at about 1/8 toed in and the car seems to pull heavy to the left. I put everything on dead even the car is all over the road.
Could this be because of the tie rod flip? Please help me out if you can.
thanks for everyones time
pics for clicks
Last edited by Dozier; 08-01-2011 at 05:36 PM.