Projet Fredybender V2.1 : NA with an attitude for the track... A sister for Euclid

[theenico]

Subscribed

Not to whizz in any one's cornflakes but, based on the Production and GT rule sets for SCCA cages for a car of this weight, 1.5 X .095 wall DOM tubing is all you need. With that said, 1.75 X .095 is a negligible increase in weight.

Carry on. This will be sweet.

[fredybender]

Pic whoring session coming...
Just parts, and a few teadious rendering of former glory...

[Grig85]

I am in for this

[scirocco*joe]

Patiently awaiting the pic whoring.

[fredybender]

Battery tray, injection bracket, and side for the rear parcel shelf, drilled the spot welds, and they're off...
Today, sandblasted the rear axle, rear brake baking plates, axle pivots, and reat strut spring top.
Primered everything, and then layed a coat of gloss black (I wish I would have the time and money to have them powdercoated, but its a race car...) It will be painted and cleaned up, nonetheless.

I remembered how much fun it is to take the front spindles apart, especially the front wheel bearing. All is appart, except for the front strut insert threaded top: I used a 24 inch pipe wrench, and the workbench was starting to rip appart under the vise... So I heated it up a few times with a propane torch, still won't budge. I put some liquid wrench in there, and I'll wait for a day or two, before going at it again.

I want to sandblast everything; the struts, caps, spindle, hub, etc...
A nice coat of primer and paint, to make it nice and enjoyable to work on, at the track.

On to some pic whoring as previously mentionned


In this pic, we can see:
5 point seatbelts, ARP head studs, Bilstein Sport shocks, Edis 4 kit for distributorless ignition (Megajolt Jr to be here soon), Short shift kit, Tube bender for the roll cage, and the tube notcher, also for the roll cage.


Recent acquisition; 10 gallon sandblaster (Hope my neighbors don't freak out too much )


OEM goodnes; tie rod, ball joints, lower control arms, all new pumps, seals, bearings, etc...


Spring porn; H&R Race kit


Shine racing service camber plates. Not new, but thats OK! (notice the nice stress bar)



ARP head studs, 800lbs pressure plate



Diesel crankshaft machined, lightened, and balanced



Can anyone say 14X8's Basset racing wheels, with 4" backspacing for the rear, and 4.750" for the front. BTW, I'm picking up my 225-50-14 RA1's on monday



K-bar (thanks Mr Bee!) More Bilstein sport goodness (rear), 100mm driveshaft (soon to be machined for the Mk1 spindles)



New gas tank



Zimmerman cross drilled 10.1's



Poly kit (I know its not the best, but hey, it might not look like it, but I'm on a budget!)


Some of todays work: Notice the square tubing welded on in the center; I have some rod-ends, and aluminum tubing to triangulate the rear beam. The square tubing is prepped with drilled & tap holes, to anchor the rod end tubes...

[Grig85]

Sick stash!

[fredybender]

Finally some parts are finding their way on the car...
I had planned for the roll cage to be started, but the DOM tubing is only getting delivered on wednesday, and we're 3 guys building cages in our cars. I will help out on the 2 other builds, and they will do the same for me. We will be starting on a 79 rabbit this week end.

Still have some shopping to do, but I got enough parts to keep me busy for a while...

I will be getting my block & my head from the machine shop tomorrow, all is done!

Pics to come on the engine, soon!

p4c

[fredybender]

Its engine time!
This is always one of my favorite time, during projects...

All parts back from the machine shop
Nice little 16V head with all kinds of goodies!



Here's a little pic that shows well the intake passage, with the small 5.5mm intake vale stem, and the smaller & shorter cross section of the guide, and the taper it has instead of being "blunt"


Bloc prep for paint:



Bloc painted:



Shop pic; overview of engine components



This picture shows well the #2 cylinder crank modification to accept the diesel crank in the OBD1 ABA; oil squirter clearance, and needed counterweight modification (not shown in pic)




Crank install, and dry fitting, including thrust bearings end play verification

[scirocco*joe]

^^Sh*t's dirty.

[fredybender]

Space for parts is now at a premium in here...
So I thought that my my wheels & tires would blend in my son's room, the way its decorated
They actually look good in there!

[MrPill]

Yeah, maybe too good. I hope you get them back when you need them!
-Dan

[fredybender]

^ I Hope I will !

Engine mounts, struts, spindles, and spring perch all sandblasted, and now painted...

[fredybender]

I helped out a friend with a Mk1 golf, building a certifiable 8 pt roll cage on the week end, looks good! My car is up next, and if the stars line up OK, the week end of December 20th is the "roll cage week end" for Dagomar.

I have since finished up a few tidbits here & there, but mostly attacked the engine, and the calculations of compression height, deck clearance, valve clearance, head CC's, piston dome CC's, compression ratio according to which fuel to run, all based on the CC's, and needed head gasket thickness, Max connecting rod load, for reaching the max RPM taking in consideration Max HP @ X RPM ... Also calculating dynamic compression with cam timing.

Interesting enough, the big valve kit from TT, when installed, has increased the combustion chamber to 50cc's from the stock 43 CC's usually encountered; this can be explained by the height of the valve faces changing thus incresing volume, and also the clearancing of the new seats in the chamber has also incresed volume of the combustion chamber.

So for all you guys & gals out there taking a look at a big valve kit, if you increase your combustion chamber volume by that much, the HP gains will NEVER be seen, if the true to life, measured compression ratio is not calculated, and adjusted either with pistons, or shaving head/ block and adding gasket thickness!

I will have a 2.97mm thick head gasket, which will give me a 13.05 STATIC compression ratio with my Wossner ABF pistons rated at 12.4 compression. (Stock is 1.6mm, but I have a TD crank that makes the piston go 1.35mm higher)
this equates to 220 psi at the end of the compression stroke (Avgas 100LL is rated for 220 )
This in turn, should yield interesting power numbers... But I might need a diesel starter

I will be posting pics, soon, as I am machining some components; for taking off weight on internal moving parts

[thatGTIguy]

on pins and needles....

[scirocco*joe]

Fred, I love the thorough nature of your builds.

[fredybender]

Thanks Joe!
Updates:

I came home tonight, and started final assembly of the engine...
SNAFU

I was listening to some tunes, while taking my time, and assembling very nice new and machined components. I put the rings on the pistons, carefully installed the rod bearings, torqued the main crank caps with new brearings, installed the new pistons in the bores, lined everything up made my own head gasket thickness, and machined some locating pins for the head & block.
all was great, the crank would turn freeley, as smooth as peanut butter...

Torqued the head down, and crank wouldn't move any more...
Good thing I got ARP studs, this time, because I would have gone through at least 3 set of head bolts tonight, not including the rod bolts that I need to undo...

I have interference at the squish line between piston & head, I would rate it at about .002"
I will be taking out my pistons, machining them, and re-doing all my CC calculations for both head & pistons. I didn't come this far, just to have an engine that will fail...

A few pics...

[mk21.8Tjetta]

subscribed!!

[fredybender]

I took the engine apart again;
I got that the squish band interferes with piston travel, so I decided to do something about it.
Got my courage together, and put them in my 4 jaw chuck to machine my new Wossner pistons...
I would say that the first piston must have taken me an hour and a half, to get it within a couple of tenths ( ie: 0.0001") on the idicator, on run out and flatness.

I then machined them down with the same angle, but taking off about 0.043" on the diameter, at 45 degrees.

I then re-installed my pistons, to take the CC readings once more, to keep my dynamic compression ration, to the value I require... (this equates to 220psi)

Calculations to be done tomorrow, to compensate head gasket thickness once again.

p4c

[scirocco*joe]

You're a stronger man than I, Fred. Machining pistons? Out of my comfort zone. But cheers to you!

[Roc'N'Green]

Dam fred you got some cojones...

I am sure it will all work out


Oh and saw some weber 48's on ebay just thought i would link em up for ya in case you didn't see them

http://frame.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/...l?CompareItems

No luck finding any Dell 48's though, those would be a real prize.

[rod_knock]

mk3 starter is stronger and smaller than a diesel, btw.

[cholland_]

mk3 starter is stronger and smaller than a diesel, btw.

The lightest, and stronger than a standard 020 starter, but a diesel's the strongest you can get (they've gotta turn some pretty high compression ratios, remember).

Freddy, your dedication is ridiculous. Machining brand new pistons?

[fredybender]

Did a few things chassis wise. Its good to leave engine stuff, and spread efforts around.
Less probable of screwing up... And I guess you can call those "breaks"

Triangulated the rear axle beam with hem joints.

[thatGTIguy]

Did a few things chassis wise. Its good to leave engine stuff, and spread efforts around.
Less probable of screwing up... And I guess you can call those "breaks"

Triangulated the rear axle beam with hem joints.

you know that doesn't sound like a bad idea... have you done this before? do you think it will make a difference?

[Mtl-Marc]

you know that doesn't sound like a bad idea... have you done this before? do you think it will make a difference?

Read about it.

Great progress.

[echassin]

Top notch build right gere, mad skills !

[fredybender]

Top notch build right gear, mad skills !

Thanks Eric, fixed it for you

[echassin]

Top notch build righcheer, mad skills !

*Blushes*

Fixed it gud.

[81sciroccorelived]

Hey Fred,

Great to see the 80S coming to life in a great home!! I am tuning in more often. So good it did not fall off that tiny rickety trailer on the way from New Hampshire!!!
Keep up the great work. I need to start on my 81 soon, you are the motivator!

[fredybender]

Thanks Larry,
I have just put in my order for the Berg cup type flares, and rear quarter panels.
Merry X-mas present from me, to me!
Got them from Precision Motorsports in Ma.
Great guy to deal with!

The front fenders are one piece, all fiberglass gel-coated, and the rear quarter panels, start from the bottom of the rear window, all the way to the bottom, and the rear.

I will be doing less body work / repairs, than I thought with those body parts on their way...
Scheduled dilevery, a few days before X-mas...

[8716vrocco]

What a sick build

[fredybender]

A few updates;
Next saturday, the car will be going to get a full 8 point roll cage.
I will be bringing my camera ...

Until then, I had to make it a rolling chassis, so I put back an old set of rear shocks, since one of my rear Bilstein was on back order. I will leave those on there, until the car is painted.

A few things:
I have finished doing the most of the engine; windage tray, oil pump, intermediate shaft, timing pulleys, water pump, and made a block off plate for the crank sensor hole too. Oil pan is on.




I also doweked the main crank pulley, as I have seen horror stories on the TD cranks with just the keyway slot...

Drilled a hole in the pulley:


Then with a transfer punch, located the hole on the crank


This is the pulley into place. The large washer sits on top of the pressed pin afterwords.


Since I got the hole rear beam into place, I wanted to mock up where the tire would poke to...
Perfect fit for the 3" flares on order!



Mocked up my brakes with the 10.1 Zimmerman's, new calipers, and my 16V carriers I had stashed from my previous build.


Front A arms assembled with the new bushings & ball joints


HD clutch (800lbs) , with very light flywheel is assembled without the ACT 6 pucks solid center; I will be bringing it to get balanced tomorrow.


When you install a lot of new parts, you have a lot of boxes to recycle!


I have also started to install my camber plates!






Last but not least, my valve cover... Shaved black wrinkle finish!

[Chris16vRocco]

[rod_knock]

LOVE IT.


Still confused why you went with a higher backspacing in the rear....

[fredybender]

LOVE IT.


Still confused why you went with a higher backspacing in the rear....

The opposite of what you said...
4.75 backspacing in front and 4" in the back