oh ****. that's epic. Thanks for letting me know, i'm definitely doing that..
Sorry to be the guy, but you've got the carb, manifold, MSD ignition, and you're going to put the most restrictive, worst flowing exhaust manifold ever produced back on the car? You're $$ would've been better spent on the manifold upgrade and keeping the digi, from a performance stand point.
anything other than the stock on you have at the moment lol. it's 4-1. the 8v gti has 4-2-1, flows better. but if you buy an obx header or raceland header it's 4-2-1 stainless steel. a **** load lighter. and mandrel bent most likely. it has great flow with the nice amount of back pressure you need. if you're not planning to go 16v get the DCOE's or if you're not looking for an insane upgrade get the 32/36. i got the 32/36 since i really wanted good throttle response. digi2 has ****e response and i will be going 16v later on in the next year and i'll drop the monies for the 45dcoe's
Another update guys!
I got my linkage done, with help from my holmes that has the same style carb on his 3tc(toyota engine)
And I took my head to a machine shop to get it cleaned out, new seals, valves resurfaced and a 3 angle valve job. They told me it'll be done on monday, so i'll post pics then!
Last edited by Snatcher; 12-19-2010 at 09:44 AM.
Got the head back from the machine shop
So i decided to get work done nao
cylinder head with no plugs
with plastic POS's bung w/e it's called
They crack, so i'm getting silicone later on in the next few days so i can plug it up
too much torque
off-topic, my dog is losing his puppy teeth
will keep you guys updated thanks to my netbook and wifi
got the FPR all fitted with fuel lines, just need to source a drill to drill holes on to the bay to mount it.
intake manifold on
valve cover on
along with oil breather lol
unfortunately i can't find my gasket that goes between carb and manifold.. >.<
You should really get a oil catch can you will have oily parts everywhere if you dont
Best intake gasket I ever used
The newsouth explanation of how power gaskets work.
PowerGasket Plus™ gives you up to 5% more power from your engine by reducing the temperature of the incoming air to your engine. This gives you cooler, denser air for more horsepower and performance from your engine.
The PowerGasket Plus™ is made from a purpose-built high performance composite material. It conducts on average less than 1/500th of the heat of the steel gasket that it replaces. Your intake manifold will stay 30-50° F cooler and your incoming air will stay 20-30° F cooler.
Cooler air, denser air, means more oxygen. Your engine sensors register these changes and will inject more fuel to give you more power. Cooler air also reduces detonation, so you can turn up the boost or advance your engine timing for even more performance gains.
Gettin' work done!!!!
So since I couldn't move forward without getting a gasket from manifold to carb, i decided to make my own. For 5 bucks I get 10" by 5' of felpro gasket material
Since the injector plugs weren't tight, a couple of dudes gave me the idea of hightemp silicone/gasket maker to plug it up good
mounted the manifolds to ze head, and ze head to ze block.
i used the bentley as reference so you closet professional techs can relax and not go bashing.
Tough part came up. damn throttle cable is a cra-pload in length, gotta find a way to route it in a different way so there's tension
HAVE to cut out the ball at the end of the cable
and here's end product. gonna do more work tomorrow in the day time with the sun out. it's starting to dip into the 50's here in FL. And for us that's FREEZING.
Tomorrow will be fuel and ignition....THE PART WE'VE BEEN WAITING FOR ALL ALONG lol
Last edited by Snatcher; 12-27-2010 at 08:23 PM.
I use that felpro make your own gasket stuff all the time. (I work at a engine machine shop that does a lot of rare stuff) A trick i use a lot is to use a small ball peen hammer and gently tap the gasket along the edges of the holes. Cuts it out perfect! Good luck with your build, i'm doing the same thing but with a stock carb manifold and an adaptor plate i made.
pre-update! no pictures right now since i got some friends coming soon, but i had the biggest URGE to give you guys an update! So i ran into a few problems.
-Starter wont crank over, gonna need a switch to that to send power to it, tis cool
-No fuel going in(using stock pump) again, it needs to be switched since it's wired up to the ECU
-Ignition is perfect, just want a switch for that as well
-Fans, assuming it, again, ran off the ecu. making a switch for that as well.
so in total i need 4 switches. YAY, i got 50ft 12g wire from lowes for the price of 20ft. My friend in the AE86 works at lowes and knows a guy that knows a guy
Cool. gonna put the new fuel pump, new fuel lines and bam. hopefully should get it started then. WOOHOO!!! lol
pictures of linkage and how i set it up at 12am EST lol
if anyone has any suggestible ideas of how i can get my starter to crank over, it will be highly appreciated
Got the cable..hmmm how the fvck do i mount it and where?!
Answer=Use the throttle bracket that's on the 1.8manifold and put it on the firewall. There's already a screw sticking out. Self-explantory
Gonna re-wire some stuff on my next day off, timing took me about half a day. I dread the fact of bending a valve the day i start this guy up T_T
Here's a pic of my best friends AE86 that's been helping me out this whole time, the one i've been mentioning throughout the thread
Looking at this pic again, I really need some wheels T_T and to finish off the body work
You should make/bend some metal so your pull on the throttle cable is straighter.
Your 8v should be non interference motor.
If u use a #18 relay you should be able to use your fuel pump with key instead of switch.
Fans are not wired through the ecu and can be done without a switch also.
Starter all you need is the red and black wire ran to it.
Last edited by Svedka; 12-29-2010 at 12:21 AM.
AE86 is perfect to steal some ITB's from
Looks like you need to do a heater core also
#18 relay where your original fuel pump relay was so bottom right i believe.
Fans can be wired in using the factory fan power and ground, ground switch run ground from switch to fans run power to fan if blowing reverse switch the power and ground on fans add relay if needed.
Your car will not start without a good ground from the body to the battery and from the motor to the battery 4g is best make sure your starter is pluged in to the correct spot also.
I have the 32/36 DFEV set-up on my German spec Frankengolf. I love it and it hauls. I do get starvation in hard cornering if i don't keep on it. I also got 31mpg doin 110mph for three hours with a passenger and luggage (autobahn)
Keep up the downdraft spirit! It doesn't get the cool points, but is a lot less temperamental and more responsive than the side draft. Perfect carb for a car you're going to drive day to day
i got it from BFI, awesome dudes, you should tell them my vortex name, hopefully i'll get some free stickers out of it lol
you're gonna have to get the manifold grinded down a bit or do what i did and jump on the manifold so both intake and exhaust mani's fit (i highly recommend you do not do this lol)
I feel I need to mention how bad of an idea it is to hard mount the throttle cable to the firewall instead of a bracket on the engine itself. As the engine moves, it will pull on the cable, and the cable will pull your throttle pedal instead of the other way around. It will be slight, but I can only see this going badly. Unintended acceleration much?
The throttle cable should be a straight pull against the linkage, the Mk1 stuff is possibly a better option as it already is a ball and socket mount.