1. Adjusting the cable out so i can have more slack, thanks to B4S. Unfortunately I have no means of fabricating (no drills, no saw, no metal, and no weld to use, all i have is solder and a soldering iron)
2. Got my brembo rotors in!
ordered it from MJMautohaus. Solid rotors, it looks clean since it's brand new Gonna get new rear drums and pads/shoes once the money comes around, college is in downtown, i don't want to take any risks. Considering the fact that I have no ABS, nor airbags.
Waiting for my direct deposit to hit in so I can go buy some crimps/connectors and switches at walmart, maybe wait till morning to get some from radio shack of advance auto parts. That and my 50FT of 12 gauge wire, I should be good with wiring up everything.
To read the spark plugs you have to run it for ten minutes or so at temperature; drive it, not just sitting idle. Then pull two plugs or so (to make sure you have a good picture of it) and look at the color. You want the plugs to be a light tan color. Too white and it's running lean, too dark or fouled out you are running too rich. I don't know about the temp changes where you are, but in Germany I have to retune after about every 15 degrees of average day temperature change ie. every season. I'm in Sweden now on vacation, but when I get back to Germany I'll get some pics. I have an auto tranny, so my throttle actually comes up from the tranny. To set up the linkage I reverses the way the arm on the carb swings, and brought the cable from in front of the engine and made a bracket which is bolted to the valve cover.
you shouldn't need a wide band; I used a $25 gauge from summit and a $25 single wire o2 sensor. It worked ok, but I don't think it was necessary and after a year pulled the system out. Spark plugs seem to be the easiest way to gauge. Start with clean, new plugs--set of four for just $11 right now on ECStuning.com
As for tuning off spark plugs that's for you to decide the 150-200 on a wideband that datalogs when trying to tune your car is worth every penny IMO.
B4S is 100% correct I didn't even think about the motor flex as I have always mounted my linkage on the motor.
I still am not understanding why you need switches do you not plan on using the factory wiring for the fuel pump, starter, ignition power?
They're useful for their original purpose, providing reasonably accurate information to the ecu for closed-loop operation, but I'd NEVER trust one for tuning WOT conditions. I'd spend a day doing plug cuts before I put my faith in a narrowband sensor again. If you want to tune for decent cruise AFRs, get a voltmeter. If the O2 reads near to 0.45v-0.5v, then you're good for economy.
Thankfully though, it's painfully difficult to blow up a naturally aspirated motor that's designed for low-grade pump gas (like the digi 1.8, lol) if you're lean for a few seconds while tuning.
1984 Volvo 244 DL...with carb.
As for the switches...well, they're a quick way of getting everything to work. That's my best guess.
1984 Volvo 244 DL...with carb.
Gonna go for the AEM UEGO wideband analog gauge, would rather have a needle than rectangular lights going left and right. Plus the rectangle lights look to modern for and 80's car.
Thank you all, I hope you guys have a happy new year.
I will definitely try to make a bracket for the linkage, my ae86 friend told me his friend is a certified welder of some sort.
Cheers! Drink up tonight guys!
Long and short of it is that you absolutely should not mount the cable bracket to the chassis of the car. It needs to be mounted somewhere on the engine - No if's and's or butt's about it...
Unless you are running 100% solid motor mounts, your engine is going to rock forward and back under acceleration/deceleration, and different throttle positions. You'll notice that the engine rocks when you rev it by hand and the car is not in gear or going anywhere. Now, when you are driving and there is a true load at the wheels, the engine rocks even more. Have you ever driven with the hood off the car? It's surprising how much the engine moves under load...
So, you must have that end of the cable housing mounted to the engine. Trying to band-aid the situation by making slack in the cable isn't actually going to do anything. Routing the cable correctly will save you a lot of headache later.
On a side note: Your local bicycle shop should have a plethora of little cable fittings.
update. wiring everything up, about to mount the carb pump, got a headache from the fuel return line, and the catch can line i'm assuming? might need to get some fuel line. wire it up, fuse in between line and bam should be started soon. wiring is fun, making grounds without a drill isn't :/
Pull a plug and see if it has spark, or you can hook up a timing light and see if it flash that means it has spark, just like when you set the timing. And I doubt a certain carb want different timing than another carb or injection.
Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.
just have to source a manifold if you want to do a downdraft