8N0 521 101J
.:R32 shaft P# is NOT the same:
1Jo 521 101AL
So if they are the same length, even though they have completely different part numbers, then no shortening required. Which makes my day on G60racer's information, that they are indeed the same length.
Sweet I have a TT drive shaft and will confirm this info in a few weeks
I looked into getting a carbon fiber drive shaft for my R32 and it was the same part # as the TT 3.2, if that helps...
not really surprised that Audi and VW part #'s are different, even if they're identical parts.
Mk2 HVAC parts are often identical to Corrado HVAC parts, but different part #s within the ETKA system.
04 R32 140k miles
93 VR6 Corrado 192k miles
90 G60 Corrado 304k miles - RIP 2/12/11
I am still wondering about the hubs that I can use. I know g60 ones don't work, but I have heard ecs tuning 5 bolt conversion hubs do work. The adaptec 4x100/5x100 hybrids I am also unsure of. I would like to keep the standard front track and not go to plus suspension.
Does anybody know if the mk3 syncro gas tank will work? I would like to use that since it only has the one fuel pump.
My 16v turbo Haldex rabbit and my quest for 200 at the Texas Mile build
I don't know if this question is relevant here but Im considering and collecting syncro bits for a Corrado.
Question is how do I do a 5x112 conversion on the Corrado with Syncro? Does the Vanagon 5x112 syncro hubs work with any of the syncro conversions? Maybe custom half shafts?
I have an Audi and plenty of 5x112 rims. Im not a fan of adaptors so it's not an option for me
Bump. Quick question for the pros: If I go the passat syncro rear for haldex and am going to run the big gas tank what other parts do I need to source from Europe? I know there are two brackets, but other then that I think I would be good.
My plan so far is: Passat syncro rear setup with notched spare tire well and hemmeroid gas tank. Although I have a couple ideas for solving the gas tank issue. If it is possible I would section it and plastic weld it so it didn't hang so low, or if that doesn't work I will do a custom aluminum fuel cell that will still go to the factory gas door.
Only parts I have so far are the ones for the o2m box to bolt up like factory But I have a passat syncro locally that I should be picking up if I can get if for the right price... and more importantly somewhere to store it considering I already have a wrecker Corrado.
2. Haldex Swap
1. Syncro rear axle assembly converted to accept haldex dif with dutch build kit (around 400 usd)
LOL THATS MY REAR BEAM I BUILT LOL
was just looking though the web found this post and bam theres my rear axle lol
Last edited by bam20v; 01-29-2012 at 03:49 PM.
Anyone have any insight into the subframe? I have a stock g60 subframe, but want to convert to the later vr6 style for strength while keeping the non plus suspension. From what I know so far I will need a Vr front crossmember from a Corrado or Passat and a mk3 k frame... I really don't have a great understanding of the differences between suspension. Would appreciate some insight so I can start gathering those parts.
I also added a couple pictures, and should have more to add once I get my syncro axle later in the month.
Finally, I know a couple other guys here are doing this swap as well- anyone want me to try and see if there is any sort of group price for dutchbuild haldex beam conversions, or if packaging them together can save on shipping? There might be jig floating around too, Ive yet to find out. Would be nice to also make a fb group or something to troubleshoot/ trade parts during the process.
You don't need the front crossmember to convert. But for your info the passat is the same as corrado.
IIRC doesn't the MK3 K frame in the "MK2" Corrado chassis make the motor sit higher?
- As Rob mentioned, the Kframes are all interchangeable (pretty much). ..plus suspension, non-plus etc. You just need to keep the A Arms, Rack, sway bar and spindles consistent with the suspension width.
- The Mk3 KFrame has longer tail brackets (after the sway bar mount) that you can either shorten to match the Corrado or just drill a hole and use a washer or 2 between the body.
- The engine mount cup is about 3/16" taller than the Corrado VR. At least this is true for the Mk3 2L is because I measured and compared them. Not sure if the Mk3 Vr is taller or not, but either way it is not that significant.
- For a 4 Cyl, you will need to use the Aluminum Rear Engine bracket for the corresponding subframe. Mk3 with Mk3 (5 speed only), Mk2 with mk2 or G60. Needs to be modified to clear Syncro or get the Proper Syncro engine bracket. If you get the True Syncro rear engine bracket, make sure you use the subframe to match or else the bracket will not bolt to the mount properly (mk2/g60 uses 3 bolts, Mk3 uses one single bolt). I am not sure if there are 2 styles on the syncro brkt as you will have to ask someone in the know if they every made the MK3 style.
- 4cyls use the Vibration Dampening Weight welded to the front of the KFrame
Front Engine carrier/Cross member
To use the stronger VR style on a G60 or Mk2, you need either a Corrao VR, B3 VR or any B4 front Cross member. They are all the same and use the VR, Mk3 style engine mount. Note: B3 2L is the same as the G60/Mk2.
If you use the VR Cross member (as I will call it) on a 4cyl, then you must use the proper Front Engine bracket. The only model that will work directly is a MK3 Diesel 5 speed. It has the provision to bolt to the 02a/Syncro trans like all 02a's AND has the proper angle on the front that is suitable for said carrier. Mk2/G60 front engine brkts do not have the Correct Angle on the Front Engine brkt. There are pics of this in my build thread.
Hopefully this clarifies all of the Carrier/KFrame q's.
Thanks for the info on the sub frames. On my personal front I just bought an o2m, haldex rear differential, shiftbox, and all driveshafts. They are still in transit, but this arrived today:
I am pretty pumped! Hopefully I can have the o2m in this fall.