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    Thread: Front Subframe Bushings

    1. 07-02-2011 07:41 AM #76
      ive had no problems. i definitely like the improved steering feel and the front end feels more solid. i bought the tyrolsport ones.

    2. Member youngm7's Avatar
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      07-05-2011 08:16 PM #77
      got mine from 034 Saturday. they look nice. really nice packaging, gives the feeling of a quality product and company. I'm excited to put them in. maybe I'll do a DIY? either way, I'll advise of any differences I notice.
      Last edited by youngm7; 07-07-2011 at 10:51 AM.

    3. Member nkgneto's Avatar
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      07-06-2011 03:11 PM #78
      Can someone verify the subframe bolts part numbers? Do they come in pairs?

      n90752802
      n90734902

    4. Member Det. John Kimble's Avatar
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      07-06-2011 04:32 PM #79
      Interesting, mine didn't come packaged like that

      they were just laid in the box in packing materials

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      07-06-2011 11:18 PM #80
      Quote Originally Posted by nkgneto View Post
      Can someone verify the subframe bolts part numbers? Do they come in pairs?

      n90752802
      n90734902
      Subframe bolts:

      2 x hex head bolt (combi) M14 x 1.5 x 63 (rear bolts) = N 907 528 02
      2 x hex head bolt (combi) M14 x 1.5 x 95 (front bolts) = N 907 349 02

      You may also need the steering rack bolts depending on how far you take out the subframe (numbers included for reference)
      4 x hex head bolt c/w shoulder M8 x 70 (Steering Rack Bolts) = N 100 155 07

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    6. Member Airy32's Avatar
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      08-02-2011 09:40 PM #81
      Bump for more feedback on these from anyone using them

    7. Member youngm7's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 09:13 AM #82
      I put them in at the same time I replaced control arm bushings and installed h&r sport springs, so I can't definitively say the 034 bushings caused this, but the steering seems even more responsive. there is no increase in noise or vibrations, which surprised me a little. the holes in my subframe were somewhat larger than the bushings (1/16-1/8", I'd say), which I thought would allow the subframe to shift. I called 034 and was told it is normal and the bushings will not shift when everything is torqued down. turns out, they know their product and I was wrong. I recommend them simply because they're inexpensive and seem to make a noticeable difference. the part is inexpensive, the install and subsequent alignment may not be. I removed my subframe, but I think it could quite easily be done in the car.

    8. Member huichox4's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 10:40 AM #83
      Quote Originally Posted by youngm7 View Post
      I put them in at the same time I replaced control arm bushings and installed h&r sport springs, so I can't definitively say the 034 bushings caused this, but the steering seems even more responsive. there is no increase in noise or vibrations, which surprised me a little. the holes in my subframe were somewhat larger than the bushings (1/16-1/8", I'd say), which I thought would allow the subframe to shift. I called 034 and was told it is normal and the bushings will not shift when everything is torqued down. turns out, they know their product and I was wrong. I recommend them simply because they're inexpensive and seem to make a noticeable difference. the part is inexpensive, the install and subsequent alignment may not be. I removed my subframe, but I think it could quite easily be done in the car.
      good to hear you like them , the only thing is that an alignment is most likely required if the subframe bolts are removed. I am saying that because sometimes to get the suspension all lined up you need to push or pull the subframe towards one side, or at least get it checked

    9. Member Airy32's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 12:05 PM #84
      Quote Originally Posted by youngm7 View Post
      I put them in at the same time I replaced control arm bushings and installed h&r sport springs, so I can't definitively say the 034 bushings caused this, but the steering seems even more responsive. there is no increase in noise or vibrations, which surprised me a little. the holes in my subframe were somewhat larger than the bushings (1/16-1/8", I'd say), which I thought would allow the subframe to shift. I called 034 and was told it is normal and the bushings will not shift when everything is torqued down. turns out, they know their product and I was wrong. I recommend them simply because they're inexpensive and seem to make a noticeable difference. the part is inexpensive, the install and subsequent alignment may not be. I removed my subframe, but I think it could quite easily be done in the car.
      Which did you use, 034 or Tyrol? From what I had read so far it sounded like they were intended to be snug enough to require being pressed in.

      Quote Originally Posted by huichox4 View Post
      good to hear you like them , the only thing is that an alignment is most likely required if the subframe bolts are removed. I am saying that because sometimes to get the suspension all lined up you need to push or pull the subframe towards one side, or at least get it checked
      I'm planning an alignment soon since I just downsized wheels/tires which will alter my ride height/alignment specs a hair. Figured there is no better time to try these, if it's a worthy mod.

    10. Member huichox4's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 12:19 PM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by Airy32 View Post
      Which did you use, 034 or Tyrol? From what I had read so far it sounded like they were intended to be snug enough to require being pressed in.



      I'm planning an alignment soon since I just downsized wheels/tires which will alter my ride height/alignment specs a hair. Figured there is no better time to try these, if it's a worthy mod.
      just make sure you go to a competent shop to have it done, most shops dont have the knowledge on how to adjust this suspension on the R, a performance shop should have the equipment and software that tells them the little tricks to do this correctly.

    11. Member Airy32's Avatar
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      08-05-2011 01:30 PM #86
      Quote Originally Posted by huichox4 View Post
      just make sure you go to a competent shop to have it done, most shops dont have the knowledge on how to adjust this suspension on the R, a performance shop should have the equipment and software that tells them the little tricks to do this correctly.
      You got that right! I had a horrible time finding a place to do what was needed - had alignments done 4 times in just over a year cuz they were all incompetent. Finally came across a place about two years ago that would listen to me. They have a "custom alignment" price which basically includes adjusting anything to the customer's desired specs regardless of what their computer may tell them, and they actually understand camber plates/adjustable control arms/subframe shifting/etc. It cost a bit more but actually took less time because they didn't waste time, and was spot on when they were done.

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      08-05-2011 01:36 PM #87
      Quote Originally Posted by Airy32 View Post
      You got that right! I had a horrible time finding a place to do what was needed - had alignments done 4 times in just over a year cuz they were all incompetent. Finally came across a place about two years ago that would listen to me. They have a "custom alignment" price which basically includes adjusting anything to the customer's desired specs regardless of what their computer may tell them, and they actually understand camber plates/adjustable control arms/subframe shifting/etc. It cost a bit more but actually took less time because they didn't waste time, and was spot on when they were done.
      I used to take it to a shop that builds pretty bada$$ race cars and they knew what to do exactly. then I met a guy that owns a tire shop and has a hpa465 super clean R32 and the best alignment station there is for that matter.

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      08-05-2011 03:37 PM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by huichox4 View Post
      I used to take it to a shop that builds pretty bada$$ race cars and they knew what to do exactly. then I met a guy that owns a tire shop and has a hpa465 super clean R32 and the best alignment station there is for that matter.
      When you find people like that you gotta stick with them even if it costs a few bucks more. Sometimes it might even cost the same, or less, and they put more time in to it!

      The right people just like to see things done the right way...
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      08-05-2011 03:41 PM #89
      Excepting the subframe i just go to my local shop, tell them to ignore what their computer says, and since my car is setup completely adjustable I just tell them tweak that for camber, toe, etc... they generally think its pretty cool even though they get to work on all the luxury cars
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    15. Member youngm7's Avatar
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      08-06-2011 09:51 PM #90
      Quote Originally Posted by Airy32 View Post
      Which did you use, 034 or Tyrol? From what I had read so far it sounded like they were intended to be snug enough to require being pressed in.
      034, as it says in my post twice. I doubt they would have answered my questions if I called them about the tyrolsport product. (just giving you a hard time)

      I got the impression they would need to be pressed in too, their website even says you may have to remove material. apparently there was a really really big variation in VW's production.

    16. Member Airy32's Avatar
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      08-06-2011 10:41 PM #91
      Quote Originally Posted by youngm7 View Post
      034, as it says in my post twice.
      Yes it does , but thanks for the answer anyway since I obviously may not have noticed if you hadn't pointed it out.

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      08-06-2011 11:48 PM #92
      Quote Originally Posted by graeme86 View Post

      You may also need the steering rack bolts depending on how far you take out the subframe (numbers included for reference)
      4 x hex head bolt c/w shoulder M8 x 70 (Steering Rack Bolts) = N 100 155 07

      Wouldn't it just be easier to drop it from the inside?

    18. Member youngm7's Avatar
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      08-12-2011 04:34 PM #93
      Quote Originally Posted by cpinde View Post
      Wouldn't it just be easier to drop it from the inside?
      If you feel like messing with power steering lines and tie rods, you can disconnect the shaft inside. I thought the 4 bolts to the subframe were easier.

    19. 01-06-2012 10:56 AM #94
      Ordered 034's mounts with new subframe bolts, and a whole heap of other parts. Hopefully I'll get time to install all this stuff!

    20. Member Yak Meat's Avatar
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      01-06-2012 11:27 AM #95
      If 034 would respond to my emails i would have them. but they havent... for the past week... r they racing or something this week?

    21. 01-06-2012 11:55 AM #96
      if you are willing to pay a bit more i know that tyrolsport always answers my emails very fast.

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      01-06-2012 11:59 AM #97
      i have returned parts i no longer needed and am now trying to get them to give me the store credit so i can spend it on the subframe bushings...

    23. 01-06-2012 10:36 PM #98
      I called them. Picked up on the 2nd ring.

      Just remember since you're on the east coast, 12.30p your time is 9.30a their time.

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      01-07-2012 12:36 AM #99
      is there a difference in the tyrolsport ones from the 034 ones. I can't justify the price difference. I want to refreshen up my drive train and suspension so I might look into these.

      Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

    25. 01-07-2012 11:13 AM #100
      the difference between the tyrolsport ones and the 034 are the material and the ridges. i chose the tyrol ones because i plan on keeping my car a while. the bronze can't seize in the steel subframe like aluminum over time. the ridges on the tyrol also look like they would keep the bushings from sliding against the chassis, like the factory ones. not sure if either of these differences matter to you, but they mattered to me.

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