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    Thread: What setting is used on a Multimeter to test the Crankshaft Position Sensor ?

    1. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-10-2011 10:51 AM #1
      http://s760.photobucket.com/albums/x...multimeter.jpg


      Here is my multimeter . No, the sticker is not the meter. What do I set it on to test the crankshaft position sensor and how to go about doing it. It turned out that what I had believed WAS the sensor was , in fact the oil pressure and not until I looked under the car did I see it..Bewildering how you can be sure of something your WHOLE life just to be corrected, uh ?:
      Last edited by vernonb57; 01-10-2011 at 10:52 AM. Reason: photo not in post

    2. Senior Member reynolds9000's Avatar
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      01-10-2011 01:48 PM #2
      Set it to the second "V" with the dash and solid line. Then touch the electrical connections on the crankshaft sensor with the tips of the red and black "probes".
      SoWo

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    3. Member MKIII and Sons's Avatar
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      01-10-2011 02:09 PM #3
      an easier way is to unplug an injector
      complete the circuit with a test light and crank it over.
      if the light comes on it's good, no light new sensor time.
      club.broke.status - collective.east
      Quote Originally Posted by Jake the dog
      Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something.

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      01-10-2011 02:15 PM #4
      Set meter to Ohms. Probe the red and green wire at connector.
      Should be around 900 or so, but I've seen 500

    5. 01-11-2011 03:38 PM #5
      spec is between 9-14.5V. test the 2 outer wires and see what comes up. if you ran a code for that and your car wont start, check ur timing belt. samething happened to me last week and found out the timing tensioner went and it jumped timing.

    6. 01-11-2011 03:45 PM #6
      spec is between 9-14.5V. test the 2 outer wires and see what comes up. if you ran a code for that and your car wont start, check ur timing belt. samething happened to me last week and found out the timing tensioner went and it jumped timing.

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      01-11-2011 04:08 PM #7
      14.5 volts... huh? Are we talking about the same sensor?


      Measure with ohm meter and do as mentioned above to check pulse at injector.
      If you have no pulse from crank sensor, you'll have no injector pulse... however, if crank sensor is good, but ECU is bad..... you'll have no injector pulse.

    8. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-13-2011 07:11 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by jmsfly98 View Post
      spec is between 9-14.5V. test the 2 outer wires and see what comes up. if you ran a code for that and your car wont start, check ur timing belt. samething happened to me last week and found out the timing tensioner went and it jumped timing.
      What happened when that happened ?~~? Upon purchase of my GTI , I inspected the timing belt and was suspicious of it because it seemed not as tight as I somehow thought it should have been. So, I bought a new one and turned out they both had the same qualities of behavior. The more the belt is torqued , the tighter it gets.

      Did you bite into the job ? If so, how were the harmonic balancer bolts ?

    9. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-13-2011 07:37 PM #9
      So , I finally put the volt meter on the crankshaft sensor. I was waiting for a coil off Ebay....No, it's not the nice, OEM coil I wanted. It was the hideous 29$ free shipping one that so repulsed me putting it on I got shivers doing it...I just won't open the hood anymore when anyone's around until I upgrade

      So, I replaced the coil and ..vrooom... ...And sitting there on the side of the road like a zombie , I pulled out the meter and started proning . The crankshaft sensor did read voltage as I turned her over. However , the reading was ....spastic like and couldn't get a clear #. If I use a test light, does it have to be LED ?

      And the coil is giving an output voltage (undiscernable also) , so could my great-deal-today- from - Ebay used ecu relay have possibly "melted" from the short circuit ? The circuit is tapped into with an inlined fused lead toggo switch AFTER the ignition switch and BEFORE the rear of the relay box on the big RED/BLACK wire to give it power and artificially still use the circuit . I ordered an ecu relay from the dealership on the way to the tow.

      You guys know it all ~ ~
      Last edited by vernonb57; 01-20-2011 at 03:57 PM.

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      01-13-2011 09:16 PM #10
      Just to correct mis-information.
      The crank sensor produces an AC waveform when being pulsed by a moving crankshaft.
      The magnet on crank induces a current in the coil that's inside the sensor.
      There is no voltage at the crank sensor.
      The test is exactly as I stated. 700 - 1000 ohms at red and green.

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      01-13-2011 10:23 PM #11
      When you test the crank position sensor at the injector if it is working the light/reading will pulse, that is normal; that means you're a go on that.
      It sounds like you've got other issues with the ecu relay and ignition inside the car that could be screwing with things, sounds like you should focus in getting that sorted first.
      -Dave

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      01-14-2011 10:55 AM #12
      Vernon, go to an auto parts store and buy a $3 12V test light, LED, bulb, doesn't matter...that's all you need for this and it will stress you out less! Pulsing light, you're golden. Don't worry about ohms and voltage and fancy multimeter ****.
      I was trying to help you because I just had a confusing no start issue with my car in which I had to check all the same things you are checking...it's frustrating, I know, that's why I'll overlook your lambasting style of response for now.
      Mine ended up being a fried ECU which in turn fried the coil.
      So until I had both new ECU + new/working coil car would just crank.
      -Dave "Illuminating Light" Satan

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      01-14-2011 02:12 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by vernonb57 View Post
      I pulled out the meter and started proning . The crankshaft sensor did read voltage as I turned her over. However , the reading was ....spastic like and couldn't get a clear #.
      You guys know it all ~ ~
      That's because there is no DC voltage.
      Again, for anyone interested in crank sensor myths.

      The crank sensor produces an AC waveform when being pulsed by a moving crankshaft.
      The magnet on crank induces a current in the coil that's inside the sensor.
      There is no voltage at the crank sensor.
      The test is exactly as I stated. 700 - 1000 ohms at red and green.

      I think some members might be confusing the CPS, which is Cam Position Sensor, with the crank sensor. They do have the same initials.
      The CPS is a Hall effect sensor, and is powered by 12V DC
      The Crank sensor produces it's own AC voltage.
      If needed, I'll post a picture from my Oscilliscope

    14. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      01-14-2011 02:17 PM #14
      If the motor is turning, there is voltage...

      Put your meter on AC Hz (if so equipped) and put your leads between 1/2. While cranking you should see 100-200hz displayed. If you don't get anything, you need a new sensor. If you get that, double check the connection to the wiring harness. If that looks good pull the sensor and clean any debris stuck to it.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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      01-14-2011 03:29 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      If the motor is turning, there is voltage...
      Correct.... Very low AC voltage. certainly not 12V DC

    16. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-15-2011 08:52 PM #16
      Quote Originally Posted by VOLKSATAN View Post
      Vernon, go to an auto parts store and buy a $3 12V test light, LED, bulb, doesn't matter...that's all you need for this and it will stress you out less! Pulsing light, you're golden. Don't worry about ohms and voltage and fancy multimeter ****.
      I was trying to help you because I just had a confusing no start issue with my car in which I had to check all the same things you are checking...it's frustrating, I know, that's why I'll overlook your lambasting style of response for now.
      Mine ended up being a fried ECU which in turn fried the coil.
      So until I had both new ECU + new/working coil car would just crank.
      -Dave "Illuminating Light" Satan
      So, it's Dave. Thanks for your patience.You and I have the same ride and the same issues . So, something "shorted" (a hot wire touched ground) . I bought the car with a bad ignition switch , and was already wired with a push button toggo switch from the battery to toggo to #3 pin on starter. But , get this. There was no inline fuse ~! So, unregulated current was passing through the starter , which travels a lead to the alternator , and I was expecting the worse = everything fried. I suspect a surge traveled this circuit and must have gotten through the alternator , and hence zapped the coil and ecu relay......somehow. The battery was oversized to induce further worry.But I still gambled with buying it.
      So, the red/black 30a lead from the ignition switch goes to the ecu relay with a leg to the clutch switch , which I found out was faulty on my car and bypassed it hoping that it won't lead to an accident in a parking lot somewhere. When my toggo switch wire connection was conveniently forgotten about laying right above the steering colomn when the car started , that's when I got down the road feeling good until I must have shifted the wires and that's when it shorted . I had the 2 piece steering column cover off exposing the metal column. zap, brrrrr.
      I guess that's all it takes to blow a 30$ ecu relay. I have a 12v makeshift light out of the boat. But , thanks for seeing through my rant and staying on topic. You're a good sport. So, what brought about your ecu going bad , and in turn frying your coil ? Did you buy the rice made coil from China ? I hope not. There's a Bosch on Ebay for 50$ , new.. Also, I noticed when I crank it over the rpm arm reacts. But when the ecu relay blows , the rpm gauge doesn't read anything.

    17. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-17-2011 06:18 PM #17
      So, I replaced my ecu relay . I actually paid for an overpriced one at the dealership .....Nothing has changed.....I put my voltmeter on AC current and put the black and red needles on the two end prongs (of the three) and it showed voltage as I cranked it over.

      The thing about it is , is that after my short , the next day it fired up and I drove to the store 3 blocks away and just as I pulled up , it died. If it's not the crankshaft sensor , or the coil or the ecu relay , is my computer toast ?
      Can two walk together except they be agreed ? Amos 3:3

    18. Moderator root beer's Avatar
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      01-17-2011 06:42 PM #18
      I've had them screw up intermittantly, try wiggling the wire right where it connects to the sensor.

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      01-17-2011 07:38 PM #19
      I'm not sure what made my ECU go. My GTI has about 255,xxx miles on it and it has been a daily for 13 years. I'd guess just time. The coil was a Beru, german made, but when the ecu goes it'll fry whatever is in its way, which is always the coil first. I'd suggest get a good ignition switch and cleaning up the other rigged wiring. The ecu relay is weird, because my car is a 97' and they stopped using them at that point, sometime in 96' VW ixneyed ecu relays. If your car actually ran for a few miles I would say most of your vitals are fine... Sorry to say, but it sounds that you are at the point where you need to chase wires and grounds. It sucks, I've done it, but like I said at first, with some rigged wiring and an ill ignition switch there's gonna be all kind of hell to pay in there and it will be hard for any of us to diagnose without seeing and completely understanding this wiring set up. I wish you luck, dude, even if you love the Jeebus.
      Godspeed!
      -Dave 'holier than thou' Satan

    20. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-17-2011 09:00 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by VOLKSATAN View Post
      there's gonna be all kind of hell to pay in there
      Godspeed!
      -Dave 'holier than thou' Satan
      Hey, I appreciate your response.And , nothing wrong with being real.You sound die hard with 255k , wow.Perhaps , I'm jinxing myself with my intention ( nay , necessity) to sell her.I got her for 300, new tires and pads. At least making money this way is legal , u know ? I mean, why wait until the looting and rioting when the dollar collapses ? I have a 32' ketch and the ocean's calling.
      I'm not selling her under BB , and with a cracked windshield, Providence might let me keep her.
      Anyway , I'm just puzzled tonight and so angry at myself for letting the wires short out on the column. serious> She was running ok, despite the CEL on. I know my bank #2 o2 sensor is coming up with a no-read. P0141 and p0158, though that's on the back burner for now.
      I bought 2 coils off ebay , inadvertently and put the other one on and still no signal from the #4 injector. The wiring harness on the injector has 2 prongs. Measuring DC current , do I put the black and red on each prong or do I test one with the red and ground one on the block ? I tried with a test light also , and no light. I touched both prongs.
      I messed around with the crankshaft sensor testing it with ohms (the omega sign) and I was getting nothing , until I put it on the AC setting and got amperage. But, that still leaves me wondering, am I supposed to be getting .900 AC amps from the crankshaft sensor ? Is ohms the omega sign ?
      The hot wire rigging I have going on are all cleaned up. And , I believe the only leg leaving the ignition switch (of the 5) that has anything to do with engine control is the red/black 4.0.
      The black/yellow 2.5 goes to the X contact relay.
      The black 1.5 goes to dash instruments.
      The grey 1.5 deals with hazards and lights.
      The brown/red deals with the radio, etc.
      And the red/black 4.0 deals with starting and powering the ecu......So, anyone want to buy a Dub for blue book non running ? Hahahahaaaa.....uuuuuuuhhhhggg...I'll look for grounds in the morning or melted wires . Glad it's going to be 65 degrees tomorrow.
      Can two walk together except they be agreed ? Amos 3:3

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      01-17-2011 10:00 PM #21
      When you test the injector you use the ground on the plug, don't ground it elsewhere.
      That's why it's easier with a simple 12V test light, because you just stick the pos in the one slot and attach a paperclip or something to the ground connector and stick it in the ground slot. It sounds like if it started at all your crank sensor is fine, though.
      Check all the grounds and for melty wires...until that stuff is solid any other guessing won't be constructive.
      -Dave

    22. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      01-17-2011 10:54 PM #22
      An easy check for a f'd ecu is if you get the CEL on with key on it's usually OK. The only time I've seen them nuked it takes out the entire 12v feed section (blows the cap/holes the board). If you have good 12v power to the ECM but no CEL with ign hot, you might have a problem.
      -Paul
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    23. Junior Member vernonb57's Avatar
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      01-18-2011 09:42 AM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by need_a_VR6 View Post
      An easy check for a f'd ecu is if you get the CEL on with key on it's usually OK. The only time I've seen them nuked it takes out the entire 12v feed section (blows the cap/holes the board). If you have good 12v power to the ECM but no CEL with ign hot, you might have a problem.
      The CEL doesn't appear until it's running,though. Now, the ecu (relay) is different than the ECM (module) and I confuse the references sometimes. The relay powers the ECM (under the abs box in engine compartment) , correct ?
      I had a short on the red black 4.0 lead going from the ignition to the relay box , I put a new relay in and now it's not giving fire. I put a test light on the injector , black as the devils heart.
      I did my best to test the crankshaft sensor , though I havn't pulled it to clean it.
      Can two walk together except they be agreed ? Amos 3:3

    24. Member BlueDevilCabby's Avatar
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      01-18-2011 09:52 AM #24
      pensacola eh? i went to pcc (pensacola christian college) for a semester

    25. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-18-2011 09:59 AM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by MKIII and Sons View Post
      an easier way is to unplug an injector
      complete the circuit with a test light and crank it over.
      if the light comes on it's good, no light new sensor time.
      if you are saying to meter the injector circuit with a multimeter slap your self now. that is why they make noid lights, you can burn out the injector circuit in the ecu.



      and the CPS should be around 700 ohms.

    26. 01-19-2011 02:25 PM #26
      Quote Originally Posted by dimbulb View Post
      Set meter to Ohms. Probe the red and green wire at connector.
      Should be around 900 or so, but I've seen 500
      Quote Originally Posted by dimbulb View Post
      The test is exactly as I stated. 700 - 1000 ohms at red and green.
      Have a 94 Golf ABA, with same symptoms VagCom scan brought me to this thread.

      So I have pretty exactly 500ohms, you mention you have seen 500 ..or should I suspect the CPS to be bad?

    27. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 02:26 PM #27
      cps sounds bad. ive never seen them go down to 500. ive got 3 laying around all from different years and they sit at 700ohms

    28. 01-19-2011 02:30 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by vento86 View Post
      cps sounds bad. ive never seen them go down to 500. ive got 3 laying around all from different years and they sit at 700ohms
      Yeah I would've assumed so but I saw the 500 being mentioned above (which I quoted)...

    29. 01-19-2011 11:28 PM #29
      Put a new CPS and it runs now..

    30. 01-20-2011 02:31 PM #30
      My car normally starts right away, but lately its been having a little bit of trouble. So finally today i pull into the gas station, fill up, then never got it to start again it just turned over. I got it home and did a spark plug test, and there is no glow on the plugs. I unplugged the coil wire and tested it and theres no spark coming from that either, so i figure its the coil. Im not 100 percent sure what the problem is has anyone else had anything happen like this to them?

      My ignition switch is a little fiddly so i was thinking maybe i blew a fuse or something? Or the coil is dead? so many little things that could contribute to the problem.

      thanks again

    31. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 02:37 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by kell869 View Post
      My car normally starts right away, but lately its been having a little bit of trouble. So finally today i pull into the gas station, fill up, then never got it to start again it just turned over. I got it home and did a spark plug test, and there is no glow on the plugs. I unplugged the coil wire and tested it and theres no spark coming from that either, so i figure its the coil. Im not 100 percent sure what the problem is has anyone else had anything happen like this to them?

      My ignition switch is a little fiddly so i was thinking maybe i blew a fuse or something? Or the coil is dead? so many little things that could contribute to the problem.

      thanks again
      take the meter and probe the red black, thats tach, youre looking for a pulsed ground. if you have it then its the coil. if you dont check the dizzy then the CPS

    32. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 02:38 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by EV99 View Post
      Put a new CPS and it runs now..
      good to hear! glad i could help.

    33. 01-20-2011 02:59 PM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by vento86 View Post
      good to hear! glad i could help.
      lol dizzy? whats that

      and yes thanks i'll do that today and see whats going on.

    34. Banned vento86's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 03:01 PM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by kell869 View Post
      lol dizzy? whats that

      and yes thanks i'll do that today and see whats going on.
      distributor

    35. 01-20-2011 03:12 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by vento86 View Post
      distributor
      hmm, heres what i did yesterday

      pulled out the spark plug and held it to the engine while it was cranked and non of them sparked.
      so i took the wire off the "dizzy" that's directly connected to the coil and nothing came from there either.

      So to test the coil i have to check for a pulse?

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