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Thread: 1.8T Intake Manifold design and construction.

  1. Member
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    01-31-2011 08:33 PM #36
    Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post

    btw its for sale. $650
    ssssssssh! :p
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  2. Member BARELY LEGAL's Avatar
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    02-01-2011 09:16 PM #37
    Was it really necessary to weld the inside? Seems like more hassle than just working on penetrating more. Just my 2 cents.

  3. 02-01-2011 09:24 PM #38
    650 for what? there are pin holes all over the edges of your welds on the plenum floor plate at the runners. your welds are cold. there are sharp edges on every transition on the inside. i wouldn't pay more than $50 for that so i could cut the head flange off it and start over.

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    02-01-2011 09:39 PM #39
    Quote Originally Posted by weiRtech View Post
    650 for what? there are pin holes all over the edges of your welds on the plenum floor plate at the runners. your welds are cold. there are sharp edges on every transition on the inside. i wouldn't pay more than $50 for that so i could cut the head flange off it and start over.
    Its just too small of a machine. Maybe a preheat would help?
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  5. 02-02-2011 10:21 AM #40
    Quote Originally Posted by weiRtech View Post
    650 for what? there are pin holes all over the edges of your welds on the plenum floor plate at the runners. your welds are cold. there are sharp edges on every transition on the inside. i wouldn't pay more than $50 for that so i could cut the head flange off it and start over.
    thanks for the comments.

    - Please take one of the pics and circle the pin holes, because I don't see any. maybe I am missing something?

    - only cold welds would be the one inch spot in the center where the 3 edged met at the T.. and that was a second pass cover because I had ****ty fitment at that point. The rest are 185 amps, 350+ temp on the entire manifold, if anything the beads are too wide and spaced, I somewhat rushed my work I will admit it on this one. You photobucked failed on the other few posts I saw you made so i cant see any more of your work... but http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...nifold-i-built from the far away pics your welds are just about the same as mine. Mine like i said on this are a little farther spaced, but not cold all over the place. I would trust this thing up to 60psi easy.

    - Sharp edges on the transition inside? again I must be missing something, kindly point that out too. The runner entrances are smooth, see bellow for another pic. The only sharp transition edge is the TB plate bore dumping into the plenum... not much I can do about that.

    not even going to fight back on the $50 comment.


    Quote Originally Posted by TIGninja View Post
    Its just too small of a machine. Maybe a preheat would help?
    It was preheated to 350 in the oven, and it was done on a 185 TA ArcMaster. Butt joints were beveled too. I welded the inside too for a little extra. meat. prior to the inside welding it was well penetrated. But yeah a 250+ would have been nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by BARELY LEGAL View Post
    Was it really necessary to weld the inside? Seems like more hassle than just working on penetrating more. Just my 2 cents.
    see above.

  6. Member BARELY LEGAL's Avatar
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    02-02-2011 10:10 PM #41
    Thanks, just wondering.

  7. 02-03-2011 07:49 AM #42
    Quote Originally Posted by BARELY LEGAL View Post
    Thanks, just wondering.
    NP. its just best practice I guess. A little more reassurance that it wont split under 35+ psi we will run, and it really isnt that awful to get in there with a short tig back cap, and a stubby lense cup. Liquid cooled micro torch would be ideal though.

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    02-06-2011 11:19 PM #43
    If you look at INA's first intake manifold test. you can see the highest flowing cfm manifolds have the angled throttle body plate.

    Good work

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    02-10-2011 08:56 AM #44
    Hey KKK, So is the adjustment with the 88* the most efficient then? Or am I looking at it incorrectly?
    What is something you learned last year that you are going to do differently this year?

  10. 02-10-2011 10:55 AM #45
    Quote Originally Posted by 1.8TRabbit View Post
    Hey KKK, So is the adjustment with the 88* the most efficient then? Or am I looking at it incorrectly?
    thats what it seems like to me, with the taper i designed in the plenum. I like the smooth flow, not too much turbulence, and a decent velocity increase into runner 3&4. Data for the outlet mass flow were are dayum even. so thats what I went with.

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    02-10-2011 10:58 AM #46
    Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
    thats what it seems like to me, with the taper i designed in the plenum. I like the smooth flow, not too much turbulence, and a decent velocity increase into runner 3&4. Data for the outlet mass flow were are dayum even. so thats what I went with.
    Just making sure I understood the flow patterns, etc.
    What is something you learned last year that you are going to do differently this year?

  12. 02-10-2011 12:07 PM #47
    i got a couple of manifolds i can send to you if you wanna flow/bench test against yours

  13. 02-10-2011 01:04 PM #48
    what TB flange is on there? Once my car is up and running I would take you up on that offer. I have unlimited dyno resources and would love to test them and get some hard facts.

  14. 02-10-2011 01:13 PM #49
    both are 80mm hemi tb flanges ..

  15. 02-10-2011 04:07 PM #50
    Quote Originally Posted by kamahao112 View Post
    both are 80mm hemi tb flanges ..
    Big gulps huh boys..... little Super Troopers humor




    I have one of them kicking around. look out for a PM in a few months once the cars runnin!

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    02-10-2011 05:52 PM #51
    i was just wondering what head you are going to put behind that manifold? Great job by the way, i rele enjoyed the tread

  17. 02-10-2011 05:57 PM #52
    Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
    Big gulps huh boys..... little Super Troopers humor




    I have one of them kicking around. look out for a PM in a few months once the cars runnin!
    do i look like a cat meow ?????

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    02-11-2011 10:26 PM #53












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  19. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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    02-23-2011 09:48 PM #54
    Saw this over on HT. Any input?




    http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2770869

  20. 02-24-2011 04:22 PM #55
    nice work TIGNinja... did you bend that on a break yourself? what thickness material?


    that stepped one looks cool, but i would think with the drop down on each step its going to create a circle of air falling off it, just looks rather turbulent in there thats all. air flow doesn't like edges bends or steep drops.

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    02-24-2011 05:28 PM #56
    Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
    nice work TIGNinja... did you bend that on a break yourself? what thickness material?


    that stepped one looks cool, but i would think with the drop down on each step its going to create a circle of air falling off it, just looks rather turbulent in there thats all. air flow doesn't like edges bends or steep drops.
    Its 1/8". We have a big break at the shop and this is the thickest stuff I dared try to bend
    My locost 7 build.http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...lappy-locost-7

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  22. 02-24-2011 09:58 PM #57
    Quote Originally Posted by TIGninja View Post
    Its 1/8". We have a big break at the shop and this is the thickest stuff I dared try to bend
    i hear yeah. we have a lil Grizzly break, need to put a lil more nutt behind it to bend 1/8th but it will do it.

    what do you use for ac settings for 1/8th if you dont mind sharing? I usually crank the freq up high to keep a stable arc no pulse and about 28% cleaning, 3/32 #8 gas lenses gold tungsten around 125 amps about continuous the whole time.

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    02-24-2011 10:09 PM #58
    Quote Originally Posted by kkkustom View Post
    i hear yeah. we have a lil Grizzly break, need to put a lil more nutt behind it to bend 1/8th but it will do it.

    what do you use for ac settings for 1/8th if you dont mind sharing? I usually crank the freq up high to keep a stable arc no pulse and about 28% cleaning, 3/32 #8 gas lenses gold tungsten around 125 amps about continuous the whole time.


    Yea about 125 amps. I use regular cups for aluminum and usually whatever size is closest to the machine im using (im lazy ). As far as settings goes I dont really care. Whatever the machine is set at

    I know all the welding nerds think there is some sort of magical machine setting for everything but if you know how to weld it will turn out good no matter what the machine is set at.
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    03-22-2011 05:39 PM #59
    totally a left field question, but is there any particular reason nobody smooths the welds on their custom manifolds? I'm not aluminum fabricator by any means, but that's the first thing I did with mine. but that's probably because my car will never be fast, so I make it pretty instead.

  25. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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    03-22-2011 05:46 PM #60
    1) smoothing welds is purely cosmetic. I, for one, like the look of a good weld bead.
    2) if you don't weld both sides of the intake manifold (most don't), the reinforcement adds a little extra strength.

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    05-04-2011 10:00 PM #61
    ya the pyrex gas lense i have measure a heavy inch and a half.. and i put flat cap on back of torch and i can get in anywhere.. plus the pyrex you can see through.. makes a difference i think


  27. 05-18-2011 09:57 PM #63
    That's an old project I'm about to finish... Composite intake ; lost mandrel for inner smoothness, it's for a 16V but I'll do one for AEB if the shape turns out to be a good design.

    I just need to machine the flanges than i'm ready to flow bench it








  28. 05-18-2011 10:00 PM #64
    wow very nice

  29. 05-18-2011 10:07 PM #65
    Thanks

  30. Member kandst's Avatar
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    03-29-2012 02:47 PM #66
    sick intakes

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