I usually use a synthetic 5w30 works just fine.. 320,000km
#1
i am about 300 miles away from my first oil change, 92500 miles, i just bought my gli.
which oil do you prefer for your 24v?
i want to keep it conventional. the bentley says anything 5w40, 10w40, or 15w40.
thx![]()
currently dubless
#4
5w40, 5w30 Mobile 1 fully synthetic ("Made in Germany" on the back). The Mobile 1 motor oil that I use is PAO based (chemically derived) and made in Germany whereas other synthetic oils off the shelf are derived from crude oil pumped from the ground.
The only Castrol oil that is fully synthetic has to be imported from Gemany, purchased from the stealership or purchased online and it is called GC for (German Castrol) It is the ONLY Castrol Syntec made in Germany.
I used to use 5w40 Castrol synthetic off the shelf, I cannot say that I notice a difference though, but one is better for the motor.
I'm only at 65k, but I push my motor hard.
Last edited by 3lfk1ng; 01-14-2011 at 11:49 AM.
#5
I rock the Mobil 1 15w50 race oil in the summer, and the High Mileage Mobil 1 10w40 in the winter (mainly cuz its really cheap@walmart, I'd prefer to use the 0w40 in the winter tho).
I tend to like stuff on the thicker side as my motor gets ran pretty mean... hehe.
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#6
Lubro-Moly or Total 5w-40 synthetic. Priced right, VW approved, and no marketing gimmicks.
#7
These engines run hot, so Synthetic is a must. If you want to keep the car around for a long time, use synthetic. They have been known to sludge the cam adjusters if conventional is used.
I use Amsoil 5W-40, high quality stuff, but expensive. My engine still runs like new at 160,000 miles.
2008 VW R32 #587
Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 - 180k+ miles
*My other car is a 1985 Chevy C10* 305 Bowtie Overdrives 700r4 3.08 - Ssslllooowww but sexy!
#8
well i just got my car at 90k, and have no idea of the oiling history.
too late in the game to switch to synth? i've heard if you switch with higher mileage it is bad. the kid (ctdubratz) that i sold my mk2 to, said his mk2 blew up while having synth in it for the first time lol
currently dubless
#9
There is no "switching" to synth. Its kind of a myth. The only negative thing about using synthetic oil at higher miles is it may reveal a leak or two that you didnt know you had previously due to the fact that synthetic has smaller molocules or whatever the science behind it is.
If you are truly worried you can always do a 50/50 mix of conventional and synthetic before going full synthetic.
2001 Jetta 2.0 - Sold
2003 GTI 24v VR6 - Destroyed
1996 GTI VR6 - Sold
1976 Rabbit - Driving
#10
The switch myth is true for old engines, i.e. 80's or older. Nothing to worry about with a modern VW engine. You might want to change the oil sooner after the first synthetic change as it will clean some junk out.
2008 VW R32 #587
Gone: 2002.5 VW GTI 24v VR6 - 180k+ miles
*My other car is a 1985 Chevy C10* 305 Bowtie Overdrives 700r4 3.08 - Ssslllooowww but sexy!
#11
Or seafoam it before you do the oil change. reveal everything at once.
2002.5 Jetta 1.8T - TOTALED (dodging deer)
2002.5 24v GTI - TOTALED (rear-ended by a Jeep)
1992 Corrado SLC - The toy & DD
2012 Golf R - The weekender
#12
lubro moly 10w40 in the summer and 5w40 in the winter thats wut i use its the shiznits!![]()
#13
I second the Amsoil. I run the 5w40 euro formula and I love it but yes, it does get expensive.
-Brett-
02.5 GLI VR6 - TT DP/Hi-Flow Cat, Autotech Cat-Back, Eurosport Cool-Flo, C2 Software, Raxles, Grounding Kit, Diesel Geek Sigma Shifter, Verdict Shift Bracket Bushings, ECS Bleeder Block, USP Braided Clutch Line, ECS/Gruven LW pulleys, Raceland Ultimo Coilovers, ECS Endlinks, 034 Strut Bushings, Motor and Dogbone Mounts, R32/Poly Control Arm Bushings, Poly Rear Spring Isolators, TSW Nur wheels, Yarrowsport Rear Bar, Euro Sport Cluster
#14
x3 on the Amsoil. I've always run it in my cars and bikes. I liked it so much i became a dealer. And being a dealer saves me some money tooIf u need some at a good price PM me...
#15
I run Motul 5w40 since my turbo was put on (about 10K miles) and I ran Pentosin 5w40 before that. Both oils performed well.
#16
x4 on Amsoil. I run my car hard at autox events and still go about 13-14 k between changes (less than 100 miles of that are track time, the rest is probably 70% hwy) I have 130k miles on the car and it still runs like new.
Not knowing the oil history shouldn't be an issue. If you do develop a leak or burn a little after switching it's simply because it's "cleaning" out your engine. Give it time and that will go away.
If I were you I would first do a cycle of autorx. (available at auto-rx.com) To my knowledge there is nothing else like it on the market. Go to the site and read up on it. I've heard tons of good stuff about it on bobistheoilguy. I have used it on a couple of cars. though I didn't take the valve covers off to see the results.
As far as cost... well Amsoil is competitively priced in comparison to any other top quality synthetic.
Become a preferred customer and you'll save about 20%
#17
I only ever used Mobil 1 0w40 but after this thread I might switch to something thicker in the summer.
#19
Amsoil will really let you run that long between changes?
N.E.R.D.
White Lightning
#20
#22
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#23
Actually the manual says every 10,000 miles. (5000 for the first change)
I'm very comfortable with Amsoil products. Amsoil recommendation in the case of the 5-40 euro is to follow the manufacturers recommendation, so, yes I am exceeding that. They only make this statement to alleviate warranty problems with VW. (At least that's my opinion)
In the case of the more standard oils they make one type that is good for 35,000 hwy miles. But in the case of the vehicles that use this oil, they don't have the warranty problems with extended drains.
I should get a UOA done. I've been meaning to do it and I guess I'm just too lazy or cheap.
#24
#25
I use 10w30 royal purple.
engine has 108k miles
I change it around 7-10k miles. If i do long road trips around 5k
#26
#27
#28
No, but the VW guys did, and go check out the manual, it is indeed 5k for the first, 10k thereafter. I try to stick to 6,000-7,500 miles max, but my motor gets a bit more abuse than most of you guys. (And I HAVE had my oil analyzed, but not in a long time... I need to do it again.)
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#29
Ahhh, I feel like an idiot. I just checked the manual and was looking at the 1.8T and V6 models that have the 5K oil changes. You all are correct. Sorry for the confusion. Now I'm just kicking myself in the arse for wasting all of that money on unneccessary oil changes.![]()
#30
-James
04 GTI Silverstone 24vT :: GT35r - TT 264/260 - Unitronic 630cc - Bosch 044 - Area51 SRI - Full 3" TB :: More in progress
>> http://zingledot.myminicity.com/ | http://sourceforge.net/projects/imagizer2 <<
#31
In the case of this particular engine, no. The filters Amsoil sells for this engine is made by Mann which is a very good brand.
However for most applications Amsoil makes the best oil filters that I am aware of that are on the market. The Ea (absolute efficiency) filters that they make are good for 25,000 miles.
They have a nice video on the website that shows the technology behind them.
#32
I run 10w40 Amsoil in both of my vrs. The oil is good for 25,000 miles. I change mine at 10,000 though.
My R32 swap and shaved bay jetta coupe build
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ding-the-beast
#33
#34
My R32 swap and shaved bay jetta coupe build
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ding-the-beast