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    Thread: Flapper Switch DIY...nailed it

    1. Member
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      01-19-2011 04:50 PM #1
      Having owned a Mk4 R in the past I really missed having complete control over the flapper via a switch. I did lots of searching and absolutely no one had done a flapper switch on the Mk5 R.

      My exhaust is "tampavw" modded and while it sounds incredible I sometimes like things nice and quiet on my hilly commute to work, so after seeing no one having installed or even attempt doing a flapper switch I thought it would never happen. Since I had a switch on my Mk 4 R I figured that it had to be possible on this R.

      Out came the wiring diagrams. After some searching the wire that ultimately controls the flapper was found, but we had no idea where the wire was running so I had to turn to the Vortex for help, and you guys came through for me. A couple of you posted pictures of the vacuum res that I was trying to locate and from there the wire was found hiding away in the driver side corner of the hatch.

      Now I'm sure this wire runs all the way up to the ECU but I did not feel like taking apart a large amount of the interior to track it so I just ran the flapper control wires to the hatch instead.

      Let's get started

      First you need to access the flapper wires which are located in the hatch, drivers side. You need to pull the carpet away from the body of the car to access the wires.

      Remove 3 of the plastic push button things holding the carpet in:



      The next two are behind the plastic trim which just pops off with a bit of force.



      This last one is all the way at the bottom, right above the floor of the trunk



      After you have removed those 3 things then you can pull the carpet down. Keep in mind you can't remove it but this will give you enough room to work.

      The wires that we are working with are:

      brown/lilac - flapper solenoid control wire
      blue/red - flapper solenoid power wire

      In the corner of the hatch you will see a rubber grommet where the two wires are coming through, they are conveniently taped together. There are a bunch of other wires and all of them are wrapped in black tape, you will have to cut this tape in order to gain access to the flapper wires.

      I unwrapped a bunch of the tape so it was easier to work with the 2 flapper wires.




      If you want a 2 setting switch read the following:

      A 2 setting switch will provide you with flapper always closed and flapper always open. In the end I went with this instead of the 3 way switch, just because I made the button look OEM.

      The wiring is completely different for a 2 setting switch. If you go this route you will just make your own kit.

      You will need an on/off switch, 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistor, 1 wire tap, some 16g wire and either quick connect wire fittings or solder everything.

      Here is my awesome paint diagram that I made to follow for installing a 2 way switch (thanks to fred340 for the original diagram, I just prettied it up.



      For the 2 way switch here is what you do:

      1. Cut both the flapper wires, brown/lilac and blue/red.
      2. The brown wire coming through the rubber grommet ground to chassis. There is a bolt holding the taillight assembly in that works perfect (scratch off some of the paint)
      3. The blue/red wire coming through the rubber grommet attach your 16g wire to and run through the cabin and connect to switch
      4. Since you cut both flapper wires you are left with the brown and red going up to the front of the car. You need to connect these wires to each other, but you need to put the 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in line (so you don't throw any CEL's.
      5. Now you need 12v switch power and you can grab this from the cig light. Run a second wire from the switch and tap into the black/red wire coming from the cig light.
      6. Done!

      Here is a gif showing the two different states of my current switch. Talk about OEM+

      Last edited by Rdurty2; 07-06-2012 at 12:12 PM.

    2. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 05:04 PM #2
      great work man

      soundclips?
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    3. Member madcrzydrmr's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 05:15 PM #3
      badass!

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      01-19-2011 05:19 PM #4
      Quote Originally Posted by abeR View Post
      great work man

      soundclips?
      I will try to get some up tomorrow.

      I was a bit worried that it wouldn't make much of a difference since VW completely changed the location of the flapper from mk4 to 5, but the car proved me wrong.

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      01-19-2011 06:08 PM #5
      This is.......AWESOME! Is their any specific spot in teh fuse box that we want to be plugging this into? Not to fimiliar with it ... thank you so much because i have been looking for this forever...You my friend....are THE MAN!

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      01-19-2011 06:11 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by Sk.:Rilla View Post
      This is.......AWESOME! Is their any specific spot in teh fuse box that we want to be plugging this into? Not to fimiliar with it ... thank you so much because i have been looking for this forever...You my friend....are THE MAN!
      Thanks

      I knew I forgot to take a picture of something. I will go out and take one in a bit.

    7. Member fred340's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 06:24 PM #7
      I basicaly did the same thing but with a 2 way switch flapper on/off. With a resistor welded in the ecu circuit.
      The flapper is great when you're driving in 6th gear at 2000 rpm... it helps to quiet the drone, you dont even ear it anymore.

    8. Member VR6Nikopol's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 06:38 PM #8
      Post like this is exactly the reason I read this forum! A guy that wanted something done, did his research, got help from other generous vortexers and went out on a limb to actually made it!

      Then he shared this information here for other R enthousiasts.

      Thank you Rdurty2!

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      01-19-2011 06:58 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Sk.:Rilla View Post
      This is.......AWESOME! Is their any specific spot in teh fuse box that we want to be plugging this into? Not to fimiliar with it ... thank you so much because i have been looking for this forever...You my friend....are THE MAN!
      Add a pic of where I put the add a fuse in my first post.

      Post like this is exactly the reason I read this forum! A guy that wanted something done, did his research, got help from other generous vortexers and went out on a limb to actually made it!

      Then he shared this information here for other R enthousiasts.

      Thank you Rdurty2!
      Thanks man. This turned out to be a really fun project. Hopefully others will enjoy the versatility it adds to the stock or modded stock exhaust.

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      01-19-2011 07:07 PM #10
      That would look smooth if you had a button like the Panamara button for the flapper it would then look stock

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      01-19-2011 07:13 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by exodus20 View Post
      That would look smooth if you had a button like the Panamara button for the flapper it would then look stock
      that would be killer
      Last edited by Rdurty2; 01-20-2011 at 04:08 PM.

    12. Member Ikey3125's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 08:53 PM #12
      So how's the always closed work, being our flapper is open when you're at idle. Assuming you'd have to switch to always close once you start moving

    13. Member f.rizzo's Avatar
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      01-19-2011 09:15 PM #13
      Seriously good work.

      Seriously.
      Makes me wonder if the CC has a flapper
      Previous: 2011 CC VR6/4mo, 2008 R32. Hers: 2006 Beetle 'vert, Pkg 2. MK4 GLX VR6 Jetta

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      01-19-2011 09:17 PM #14
      Mods- add this to the DIY sticky please.

      Outstanding!!!

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      01-19-2011 09:18 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by Ikey3125 View Post
      So how's the always closed work, being our flapper is open when you're at idle. Assuming you'd have to switch to always close once you start moving
      When I have the switch in the flapper closed position it is closed 100% of the time, even when I start the car. So I get in the car, close flapper, start car and it's nice and quiet because the flapper is closed from
      The second I start the car until I flip the switch to a different position.

    16. Member Saabstory02's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 01:23 PM #16
      Bumpin' this up; the Rdurty2 mod needs more front-page time...






      And I needed to subscribe for instructions shortly
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    17. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 01:42 PM #17
      ADD TO FAQ'S

      is there a moderator in here
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      01-20-2011 01:47 PM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by Saabstory02 View Post
      Bumpin' this up; the Rdurty2 mod needs more front-page time...






      And I needed to subscribe for instructions shortly
      If you want to do this just let me know and we can get together to work on it if you want. Maybe install a haldex switch as well?

      Also if anything in my first post isn't clear to anyone just let me know and I can try to better explain things.

      Video's of the sound difference will have to wait until this weekend most likely.

    19. Member Ikey3125's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 01:58 PM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by Rdurty2 View Post
      When I have the switch in the flapper closed position it is closed 100% of the time, even when I start the car. So I get in the car, close flapper, start car and it's nice and quiet because the flapper is closed from the second I start the car until I flip the switch to a different position.
      Hmm, so guessing when you put the switch to "closed" its sending a signal to the flapper to close the flapper.

    20. Member
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      01-20-2011 03:08 PM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by Ikey3125 View Post
      Hmm, so guessing when you put the switch to "closed" its sending a signal to the flapper to close the flapper.
      You got it. It keeps it closed all the time, from idle to redline, cold start, warm start...always closed.

      I love keeping it closed during cold starts since the exhaust it kind of loud during that initial 30 seconds or so until idle drops. Having the flapper closed during that time makes a big difference in quieting it down.

    21. 01-20-2011 03:17 PM #21
      maybe I'm wrong but does not ecs tuning have a mk5 flapper?

      But nothing beats a diy!

    22. Senior Member abeR's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 03:22 PM #22
      ECS has one for the MKIV, which is where I suspect the diagram is from. however nobody has posted up here of one installed on an MKV.
      till now
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      01-20-2011 03:52 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by Motohip View Post
      maybe I'm wrong but does not ecs tuning have a mk5 flapper?

      But nothing beats a diy!
      ECS does not offer a Mk5 flapper wiring kit, like abe said just a MkIV. I used their MkIV wiring kit but it has to be modified with much longer wires since in the MkIV you can tap into the flapper control wire underneath the steering wheel.

      I've only had this installed for 4 days now and I'm already looking into changing things up with the switch. I'm not saying anymore then that since I have to order a bunch of different parts for trial and error fun, but if I can figure out a solid and simple solution I will definitely post it up. If I can pull it off it's going to be incredible.
      Last edited by Rdurty2; 01-20-2011 at 03:55 PM.

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      01-20-2011 05:31 PM #24
      I guess you could say this is very similar to a Capristo Exhaust. Or just like it. without shelling
      out 4 grand! Excellent. I'll have to look up Tampavw mod. Great right up

    25. Member dubnick32's Avatar
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      01-20-2011 10:39 PM #25
      Cool thing dude. way to use one of those blank spaces.

    26. Member Saabstory02's Avatar
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      01-21-2011 09:11 PM #26
      Bumpin' this up; I've heard Durty's plans (I won't spoil his surprise though) and his update should be sweet once he is ready.
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    27. Member fred340's Avatar
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      01-23-2011 05:46 PM #27
      I'm going to post the info I have shared with Rdurty2 by pm, if you want to do a two way switch.



      Blue/red is + and lilac/brown is the ground controled by the ecu.

      The resistance of the N321 is 27.5 ohms so I opened up a broken dvd player and found a 60ohms resistor. That part is welded to the ecu wiring and I'm not having any cell.
      My wires are ready for the switch, I welded a wire to the 12v socket in the center console and installed a switch in the ashtray. Then the + wire is going all the way back to the end of the car. I'm kind of lazy(hehe) and it's so easy to work in that area. The're are also less chance of water/snow damaging the modified wires there.
      Then I welded the wire to the blue/red wire. For the lilac/brown I welded another wire and the're is a nice ground in the back near the quater pannel so i'm grounding it there.

      bad drawing I just did:




      I welded the wire of the switch directly to the + male terminal of the 12v socket, if you do it right you can still put back the female connector and still have a functioning 12v socket.





      Last edited by fred340; 01-23-2011 at 06:35 PM.

    28. Member neu318's Avatar
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      01-24-2011 04:34 PM #28
      Quote Originally Posted by f.rizzo View Post
      Seriously good work.

      Seriously.
      Makes me wonder if the CC has a flapper

      Probably not, my A3 doesn't have one either.
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    29. Member Roberts_J's Avatar
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      01-25-2011 03:52 PM #29
      This is so awesome! I'm going to do the TampaVW mod to my stock exhaust then get this done! But first i want to wait until the big plans have been unveiled, the suspense is killing me!

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      01-26-2011 07:29 AM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by Roberts_J View Post
      This is so awesome! I'm going to do the TampaVW mod to my stock exhaust then get this done! But first i want to wait until the big plans have been unveiled, the suspense is killing me!
      TampaVW mod + Rdurty2 mod = perfect exhaust

      I'm working on two different switch config's currently. The first I'm just waiting for the parts to be delivered, the second I'm waiting to hear back from someone.

    31. Member shovelhead84's Avatar
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      01-26-2011 08:23 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by fred340 View Post
      I'm going to post the info I have shared with Rdurty2 by pm, if you want to do a two way switch.



      Blue/red is + and lilac/brown is the ground controled by the ecu.

      The resistance of the N321 is 27.5 ohms so I opened up a broken dvd player and found a 60ohms resistor. That part is welded to the ecu wiring and I'm not having any cell.
      My wires are ready for the switch, I welded a wire to the 12v socket in the center console and installed a switch in the ashtray. Then the + wire is going all the way back to the end of the car. I'm kind of lazy(hehe) and it's so easy to work in that area. The're are also less chance of water/snow damaging the modified wires there.
      Then I welded the wire to the blue/red wire. For the lilac/brown I welded another wire and the're is a nice ground in the back near the quater pannel so i'm grounding it there.

      bad drawing I just did:




      I welded the wire of the switch directly to the + male terminal of the 12v socket, if you do it right you can still put back the female connector and still have a functioning 12v socket.
      I like this, BUT...... how about adding a second pressure switch under the gas peddle. This would add another setting to the driving experience. You can use your normal switch for always on/off or have the flapper open when the gas peddle is floored. That way you can drive in the always off position and just have the flapper kick in "on the fly" when you are demanding full power from the car?

      You would need two separate lines from the 12v source, but both lines would go to the controller. You could even get a switch with another selection and put the pressure switch on that. then you would have On/Off/Stock/Pressure

      Keep in mind my suggestion is made with admitted ignorance to the purpose of the ecu connection or stock flapper function. For all I know the ecu does this anyway with stock flapper control. I think I'll go look that up now
      Last edited by shovelhead84; 01-26-2011 at 08:30 AM.

    32. Member
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      01-26-2011 08:30 AM #32
      ^^ now you are just complicating things

      If you really wanted the stock setting then you would just use the wiring diagram in my first post as that gives you stock, always open, and always closed. No need for pressure switches behind the gas pedal, crazy amounts of wires, etc.

      I honestly never use the "stock" setting on my 3 way toggle. I either want it always quiet or always loud. I'm actually going to be switching to a 2 way switch...once my parts come in you will see why.

    33. Member
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      01-26-2011 09:54 AM #33
      Flapper switch DIY added to FAQ/DIY thread

    34. Member Roberts_J's Avatar
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      01-31-2011 07:07 PM #34
      cant wait for the DIY on a 2 way switch! I'm doing this once its up

    35. Senior Member .:1of1500:.'s Avatar
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      01-31-2011 07:36 PM #35
      Awesome work, man.
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