Doing my first Clutch & flywheel, support, info, diy's, past experiences, pics?

[turbonium89]

Hey guys

i'm at 117k on the dash and want to do as much research and get the best deals for the best product, and i want to take on the install myself with the help of vortex and my friends. so lots of questions as i've never done this before and want to do it right. i refuse to take it to a shop as i want to get my hands dirty and learn as much as possible

where to shop for stage 1+ clutch and 16lbs flywheel?

what are the specs on the 24v 6spd? ( i have a bentley so i have most of the answers but anything helps )

while i have the tranny out, i'm gonna flush it, what kind of fluids are best? is there any good socal tranny shops that can work on syncros? is there different gears i should switch to if im at the track a lot?

what are the proper steps for diy?

where are the pics for references? ( if no one has one, i think i'll document it and post )

anything helps folks. thanks

[jettaglis]

1) four seasons tuning
2)Manual Transmission 5 and 6 speed 02M
Identification Codes FSR
Manufactured from 01.02 through 05.03
Allocation Type Golf from MY 02 Jetta from MY 02
Engine 2.8 L - 147 kW
Gear ratio: Z2 : Z1 Final drive I 71 : 18 = 3.944
Final drive II 71 : 23 = 3.087
1st gear 47 : 14 = 3.357
2nd gear 48 : 23 = 2.087
3rd gear 47 : 32 = 1.469
4th gear 46 : 40 = 1.150
5th gear 43 : 36 = 1.194
6th gear 39 : 40 = 0.975
Reverse gear 34 : 14 x 23 : 14 = 3.990
Capacity 2.3 liters
Drive axle flange driveshaft 108 mm
3)go with oem fluid

I hope this helps you out a little someone else will chime in and give more info
The best upgrade i think i've done to my car is a lsd, do it while its all apart.

[turbonium89]

thanks a lot. i like the quick response

[koko5869]

there was a really good thread of a bunch of us coming up with all the hints and tricks on the old tex. ill see if i can find it.

[GRN6IX]

Not exactly what you're looking for, but...
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...mp-r-questions

[turbonium89]

do people only take their cars in to shops to get them done? if so what did you pay total? or if not, and theres someone who has taken their clutch out, was there any problems you came into? or was it smooth sailing?

is this the best time to flush the gear oil? if so how do you do that?

whats the throw out bearing do? is it also know as the master cylinder? or the clutch slave cylinder? someone point this out with pics please

[D03GLIR]

When my slave went a year or so ago and I talked to folks I was told that removing the tranny on the 24V was one of the worst car jobs you could undertake, especially w/o a lift and good help.
Being w/o a lift and good help, this is one job I farmed out and DTM in NH did a fine job of it.
I went Clutchnet Stg II, w/ the 16.5 lb flywheel hoping to get better engagement/ longevity w/ the SC.
Engagement is great and it does spin up quicker but the solid steel flywheel chatters like crazy. It's an embarrassment and I'll probably lose my slave early as a result as I keep the clutch in all the time when stopped because everyone turns to see what the blinkin noise is. 4 Seasons said I could get it balanced before install but I didn't and it shouldn't have been necessary.
So, unless your dual mass is trashed or you really need more clutch (Turbo), stick w/ the dual mass FW for quiet. There are upgraded disks compatible and if I had it to do again, that's what I'd do, even w/ the SC in the car (I drive hard but not like I stole it). The improved spool up isn't worth it to me but might be for you.

Whoops, said chatter instead of clatter- No sound or vibration during engagement, smooth as silk (ie- no chatter) Clatter is what's bad, sound the tranny gears make at idle due to balance issues through the whole drivetrain (doesn't hurt anything just sounds like the car's broken)

Peace

[jaso028]

is your clutch going @ 117k?? or are you looking to replace it because of the miles???

just wondering cause I have 169K on the origanal clutch and there are no signs of it being week or on its way out... Pedal still releases @ a normal spot!

[apstguy]

is your clutch going @ 117k?? or are you looking to replace it because of the miles???

just wondering cause I have 169K on the origanal clutch and there are no signs of it being week or on its way out... Pedal still releases @ a normal spot!

I wouldn't worry about the clutch, my slave went at 112K and the clutch still had lots of life on it, but I replaced it anyways. I would be much more worried about the slave over the clutch.

[jaso028]

I wouldn't worry about the clutch, my slave went at 112K and the clutch still had lots of life on it, but I replaced it anyways. I would be much more worried about the slave over the clutch.

O I am not worried about the clutch @ all... too date the slave seems ok... no weird noises as of yet... But that is probably when I will do the clutch is when the slave goes..

Thats when i did my firends 215k the clutch still looked great... but his slave went bye bye!!
guess the dual mass flywheel contributes to the life of the clutch!!

[koko5869]

my original clutch was slipping at 76k. and i broke a shift fork.

ive removed and replaced the trans twice for shift forks. have probably done 5-6 o2m's in the last year. getting pretty good at it.

the biggest pain is getting the diff around the subframe.

take a piece of cardboard and draw the bellhousing. then poke holes in it and put the bolts in their corresponding holes/directions. theyre different sizes/ lengths/ and come in from 2 directions. if you put a long bolt in a short hole, youll crack the block and coolant will come out. just an FYI.

also take a pen and punch holes for every other bolt that comes out. write a little note where they came from so you can remember easily. this will make life easier when putting things together, especially if working with a non car savy person.

youre going to have to have the car on jackstands obviously. as high as you can get it. i usually use a floor jack and a piece of wood inder the oilpan. youre going to have to jack the motor up and down a lot. some pretty steep angles, but youll be alright.

you have to unbolt the trans and pull it away from the motor a little. then rotate it so the diff goes up towards the firewall. lower the motor a lot, then slide it off. im about 5'8" 160 pounds. the reason i say to get the car up as high as possible is because i lay on the ground, then bring my knee towards my chest and use to to support the trans as im wiggling it around and such.

bleeding the clutch is a pain. if you know someone with a power bleeder, nows the time to call in a favor.

no special tools that i can think of except for triple square bits. (axles and flywheel (if youre replacing)) pretty sure the pressure plate is on by allens(?) and theres a little football tool a lot of companies sell to remove the struts from the spindles. i took an allen socket for 3/8" rachet and ground it down to make a football. you put it in the slit in the back of the spindle and crank on it to open the spindle to the strut will drop out.


edit...and if youd like, ill gather all the torque specs up for you saturday night/sunday morning.

[koko5869]

and while everything is apart DEFINITELY change the slave out. if it hasnt gone yet, it WILL.

[jefswat]

my original clutch was slipping at 76k. and i broke a shift fork.

ive removed and replaced the trans twice for shift forks. have probably done 5-6 o2m's in the last year. getting pretty good at it.

the biggest pain is getting the diff around the subframe.

take a piece of cardboard and draw the bellhousing. then poke holes in it and put the bolts in their corresponding holes/directions. theyre different sizes/ lengths/ and come in from 2 directions. if you put a long bolt in a short hole, youll crack the block and coolant will come out. just an FYI.

also take a pen and punch holes for every other bolt that comes out. write a little note where they came from so you can remember easily. this will make life easier when putting things together, especially if working with a non car savy person.

youre going to have to have the car on jackstands obviously. as high as you can get it. i usually use a floor jack and a piece of wood inder the oilpan. youre going to have to jack the motor up and down a lot. some pretty steep angles, but youll be alright.

you have to unbolt the trans and pull it away from the motor a little. then rotate it so the diff goes up towards the firewall. lower the motor a lot, then slide it off. im about 5'8" 160 pounds. the reason i say to get the car up as high as possible is because i lay on the ground, then bring my knee towards my chest and use to to support the trans as im wiggling it around and such.

bleeding the clutch is a pain. if you know someone with a power bleeder, nows the time to call in a favor.

no special tools that i can think of except for triple square bits. (axles and flywheel (if youre replacing)) pretty sure the pressure plate is on by allens(?) and theres a little football tool a lot of companies sell to remove the struts from the spindles. i took an allen socket for 3/8" rachet and ground it down to make a football. you put it in the slit in the back of the spindle and crank on it to open the spindle to the strut will drop out.


edit...and if youd like, ill gather all the torque specs up for you saturday night/sunday morning.

This pretty much sums it up. Go through the effort of getting all the hoses and plastic pieces out of the way. It will make you life a million times easier. I think I used a couple of zip ties to get the power steering line out of the way, that one is the worst.

Other than that, replace your slave cylinder, and get all of the o-rings for the line to the slave cylinder. Its a PITA when you try to bleed your slave cylinder and one of the o-rings is bad. Its just cheap insurance.

[turbonium89]

thanks a lot koko, i'll have to ask how you did the strut tower tool, as i will be replacing the bushing/bearings. why do you take them off for the clutch swap? more clearence to work around? or something related with the loosening of the subframe? do you replace the stretch bolts with new ones? or do you not worry about them?

i'm sure the previous owner learned how to drive stick with this car, and the last 30k miles that i've put on it have been pretty damn hard ones. 3 drag racing days at the track, many autocrosses, some street racing, i've only had it for a year, and 30,000 miles. hahaha,

the clutch and slave still work great, but its slipping ever so slightly, i guess i just want to work on my car. haha

[turbonium89]

thanks jefswat

[Hillbilly Rocco]

I did my tranny pull and for about $30-40 of wood and hardware and a com-a-long, you can have a decent overhead engine support and tranny hoist. The key is using the attach point in the pics of the link below. I do not claim the attach point (cast into the housing) is designed to hold the tranny, but it worked for me. It gives the tranny a good center of gravity to tilt up and around the subframe. I did it by myself. And the subframe stayed intact.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...he-tranny-Tips

When the tranny is out, prime the slave cylinder by pushing in the TO bearing, ensure a supply of fluid is connected to the hydraulic line and let the TO bearing out to suck in the fluid.

[turbonium89]

throw out bearing = slave cylinder???????

[jefswat]

yep, The throwout bearing is incorporated into the slave cylinder. It'll all make sense when you get your parts

[turbonium89]

that clears that up nicely. man i cant wait for tax return to come damnit

[turbonium89]

so, after reading page aft page of tranny info on vr 24v tranny's i'm kinda thinking my clutch is in better condition than i think and its just my slave cylinder on its way out. i still have plenty of grip on take offs, tho it does slip just a tiny bit, i'm experiencing clutch engagement problems more than anything. just weird shifts due to contact at different levels of clutch engagements

[02JttaGLI]

I'm about to put in a new clutch and flywheel, and I've noticed that holes on the flywheel are equally spaced. How do make sure the new one is installed in the correct position? Do I just mark the engine where the TDC line is on the old flywheel before removing it?

[24vGTiVR6]

considering the limited room that's available when you drop an 02m, a transmission jack makes life a lot easier. if you can rent one from partsource / autozone etc or even grab a transmission jack pad adapter I'd highly recommend it. when I have to use jack stands I use this jack (when it was on sale for $99 - harbour freight or similar probably has these too):

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/prod...nsmission-Jack

I found the hardest part was lining up the trans to the crank / flywheel after replacing everything. a lot of wiggling + rotating the crank here n there, but with the trans jack you can line up the bolts with their holes exactly to make things a little easier.

also it's just me - but this job is such a pain that I always replace everything that I can while i'm in there. that way I know I don't have to worry about the clutch / slave etc for a while. that's just me tho.

and bench bleed the slave before installing, otherwise it makes it really difficult to bleed since the bleed valve is located before the slave. thanks vw.

if I don't feel like screwing around and I need to replace the clutch quick (like an afternoon / evening) then I just drop the subframe. this gives you unlimited room to work with and makes everything 100x easier. just remember to mark your ball joints to try and keep your alignment settings. you'll need new subframe stretch bolts, and I also usually replace the ball joint to control arm bolts as well. ~$40 from the dealer.

and it goes without saying.... a bentley is invaluable.

I've done it with two jacks before plus some 2x4's, but it gets really really tricky tilting, lifting and lowering that way.

gl.

[02JttaGLI]

I'm about to put in a new clutch and flywheel, and I've noticed that holes on the flywheel are equally spaced. How do make sure the new one is installed in the correct position? Do I just mark the engine where the TDC line is on the old flywheel before removing it?

does anybody have an answer?

[VW_OwneR_85]

i personaly wouldnt use gear flush, reason being i recently used engine flush, followed the instructions and basicly because your never going to be able to drian 100% of your old oil out the remainder just completly thinned out my new oil and could of caused a serious problem if i had not noticed, so after another oil change later it seems to be ok,
with a gearbox i would just do an oil change and call it a day but its your car,
only advice i can give is take pics and label stuff up , its daunting but its not overaly hard oh and replace the flywheel bolts as there the bolts that can only be done up once.

[02JttaGLI]

My god, this job is such a PITA. I kinda wish I paid someone to do it, or at least rented a trans jack. Having the right tools makes all the difference.

Lowering the subframe and taking out the driver's side axle made things a little easier.

I bled the slave before i installed it, but all the fluid squirted out when mating the trans to the engine. I should've connected the clutch line first. Now i gotta get a syringe to bleed this damn thing.

[VW_OwneR_85]

My god, this job is such a PITA. I kinda wish I paid someone to do it, or at least rented a trans jack. Having the right tools makes all the difference.

Lowering the subframe and taking out the driver's side axle made things a little easier.

I bled the slave before i installed it, but all the fluid squirted out when mating the trans to the engine. I should've connected the clutch line first. Now i gotta get a syringe to bleed this damn thing.

yep having the right tools a dry shed with a concrete floor makes it alot easier, why did you lower the subframe?

[02JttaGLI]

i did it in a cramped garage. i lowered the subframe because the left axle flange kept hitting it. it freed up a lot of space.





i scraped a ton of dirt out of that trans.