Direct bolt on to 10.1" Rocco hubs, got to run a spacer to clear them tho as the car they came on ran higher offset rotors/hubs. Basically like the MK1/2/3 rear set up in terms of hub offset. Rear is getting near identical set up both in rotor size and caliper.
Well progress has been slow here of late, been helping a few others with their projects and had to finish another car to get it sold. But I did get some new bits for the ole caddy:
Stereo bits and the AEM datalogger and harness. Also made up a mount and trimmed it out to put the radio in the console so I can move the gauges up to the dash.
And finally got the two things together: time and parts, to get some more work done.
Trying to finish up the last details in the engine bay. Got the inj's and harness finished up, along with running the last few wires for the gauges and datalogger as well as some other details:
Still need to pull the dp and install the EGT probe as well as clean up the wiring under the rain tray cover.
However in bigger news, for progress anyways, the car now rolls on its own again and the temp rear support is gone for good:
This is with the rear bags aired all the way out:
And that is because I havent finished the interior and mounted the control gauge and switch so have no way to fill the bags at this point . But even all the way air down it doesnt hit or rub on anything, at least with the Pepperpots on it.
Got more time to put in on the Caddy again today. Installed the new custom fuel cell I had made along with the rest of the bits for both the airride and the fuel system:
I still need to get and cut an alu panel for the front of the 'box', the bottom is already done. Once I get that I can mount the battery and make the power and ground connections for everything. Also in that end panel will be a bulk fitting for the fuel line which will serve to connect the last two open fittings in the pic.
And another pic of it back on its own 4 wheels, first with the airbags inflated to 60psi and then with them fully empty:
50-60ish was what I was hoping for to be at regular ride height for comfort so I was pretty close with the math and the set up. Bags can take up to 400psi max, or 200psi working load, so I should have plenty of room to pump them up to adjust for loads and/or people.
either way, glad you picked them up adam.... they look great and can't believe the amount of progress you made on your build... good stuff...
Well now its down to the the little things, and man are there alot of little things. But they all have to get done before its done. I made up an upper rad mount using the stock mount:
And I spent a lot of time under the bed/at the back of the truck. All the lines are tight, tied up, and made up some brackets to hold all the plumbing where it should be:
Also finally got the brakes sorted out, I had some issues with the e-brake brackets and routing on the old MK3 rear calipers I was using. Got it sorted by swapping to early MK2 'top-pull' calipers and then got them all mounted up along with the parking brake cables:
I still need to make some cable stays for the e-brake cables and then bend up some new hardline for the calipers brake lines.
Well since I was doing everything custom I anyway I did that hoping to be able to use stock parking brake cables, vs the Jman ones which I just really dont like. However the bottom pull style calipers ebrake bracket touches the axle and makes it impossible to run the cable. So I had to switch to the top pull MK2 style and with the loop in the cable will probably still have to use the old Jman cables. I have new MK2 long cables comeing today so will know for sure soon
Well the MK2 early E-brake cables are still too short so looks like I am sticking with the Jman ones, oh well.
Made more progress to day, most of it stuff that doesnt show like tucking wiring, finish torquing all the clamps and fittings. However at the end of the day did make some nice visual progress finally:
Last edited by grizzlyone; 02-25-2012 at 09:13 PM.
More little things knocked off the 'To Do' list.
Put the hood back on, really looking like a car/truck again, and found out the OEM style poly early bushings allowed the strut shaft to stick up enough that it hit the hood. Really my fault for measuring with the Prothane bushings in, which are about 2x as tall. But decided instead of putting those in to try out some of the Audi 90 upper strut mounts and all is good now.
Wired up the headlights, H4 HID Bi-zenon kits with the ballasts hidden under the frame horns and reusing my old Hella E-codes.
Did some math to figure out how to make the MAP sensor boost line longer while keeping it reading correctly. I had found some old VW technical articles stating the 1 meter length was important due to the ECU's MAP sensor being calibrated to the volume inside that 1 meter length of hose. Looking up the stock diameter of the hose I was able to use some of the smallest emission/PCV hardline to make the line longer yet keep the same internal diameter, which allowed me to run the line that way I wanted. Wont really know if all this is true and right till I drive it, but it sure sounds like I know what I am talking about
Buttoned up the rear 'box'. Made a bracket for a battery hold down and installed the bulkhead fitting for the fuel line. I also installed a battery kill switch, both so I wont have to pull one of the panels to disconnect the battery and for a bit of security by removing the switches handle:
Something to keep in mind- There has been some reporting of pumps prematurely failing because they laying on their side. Seems odd but even some of the manufactures are recommending they be mounted with the cylinder vertical. I don't think you will likely be "playing" with it that much but good info in case there is an issue.
Lookin really good though!
Last edited by Mr. Mk1; 03-04-2012 at 10:29 PM.
Well work and other projects have taken up my time for the past 2wks, but finally got some time to put back on the caddy.
I had the control arms yellow chromate plated along with some other parts:
And apparently had some pinholes in my welds on the lower tie bar as it held liquid in and messed up the coating process in a few spots:
Going to go back over it fix the pinholes and get it redone. Speaking of redone I didnt like the rear pivots on the arms as if caused a bind during travel so I decided to go back with my original plan of using the stock rear pivot pin and bushing:
Now it acts/moves just like stock and I can use the graphite/poly bushings. Just need to clean them up a little and have them replated with the lower tie bar.
I simply love seeing this bad boy come together!
Any concern with that new rear link causing wheel hop under hard acceleration? From what I can see, under braking the rear strut link will hold tight but under acceleration the wheel want to move forward and try to pull the link out of the bushing? Certainly the front mount will help hold it together but it seems like there could still be quite a bit of unwanted motion. Obviously this is not an issue with a stock control arm as it is one piece but with a muli-piece design it seems like it would be a lot easier for it to move... hence possible wheel hop.
Maybe tap the end of the bushing mount and add a bolt and washer?
Nonetheless... looking really good. I love the yellow chromate!!!! Keep up the great work!
Well found the pinholes in the bar and welded those up, as well as adding the stop and retainers for the rear control arm mounts and then bolted it all up to make sure it was good before sending back to the plater:
Then since I got word from Rotiform that the lips & barrels will be here next week I worked on the wheels and brakes. I had a set of 13mm spacers made up based on my measurements and test fit for the Gottis to clear the 4 piston calipers I want to use and I'd say I was dead on:
It doesnt get much closer than that, there is just barely a RCH of clearance
Also went ahead and mocked up the Gottis front and rear with some RS lips of the same size as I am getting:
I am a little worried about getting the front to tuck with the spacers and calipers, so I put back on one of the RM's I was running before with no issues to check the difference:
The Gotti sits out about 1/2" more than the RM so its going to be tight, especially since I am going up to 185.45.15's for the Gottis vs the 165.50.15's I ran on the RM's.
Well got two of the Gotti's put together, one front and one rear.:
I used new spacers and seal rings for them so they are like BBS motorsports and dry sealed, no silicone. Getting some metal valve stems tomorrow and should be able to mount up the tires over the weekend