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    Thread: Caddy V4.0 - glutton for punishment

    1. Member R32peterb's Avatar
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      11-29-2011 08:38 PM #226
      wow, looking great!!! keep up the good work, this is a very inspirational build

    2. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      11-30-2011 07:51 PM #227
      Got a couple of little things done. Tried out a Rado VR6 throttle cable and it looks like its the ticket. This was just thrown in there to check if it will work, I will run it for good later:



      Also got the G60 TB front housing back from welding. I cut off the ISV/G60 re-circ set up off the bottom and had a flange welded on for the BOV, Its on in the pic above and here is a side shot for a better view:



      It will be pretty invisable in the final set up

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      11-30-2011 08:22 PM #228
      Shouldn't the "well" of the fuel cell be pointing to the rear to help prevent starvation under acceleration?

    4. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-01-2011 09:55 AM #229
      In a drag car sure, on a street car doesnt really matter.

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      12-01-2011 01:22 PM #230
      Good to know. Thanks.

    6. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-01-2011 01:27 PM #231
      The drop sump area is still the lowest point, and in relation to the rest of the tank is lower than the stock pick-up was relative to the stock tank. It also has fuel cell foam in it to prevent slosh and fuel shift. If I had faced it towards the back it would be visable from the rear and also place the fuel lines exposed and un protected.

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      12-01-2011 01:49 PM #232
      Quote Originally Posted by grizzlyone View Post
      If I had faced it towards the back it would be visable from the rear and also place the fuel lines exposed and un protected.
      Kinda figured this might be the case. Tough to tell form the the "under truck" shoots.

      How close are you to being able to set it back on the the ground?

    8. 12-01-2011 03:19 PM #233
      So much win here

    9. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-02-2011 01:18 PM #234
      I had drawn up some brackets to relocate the front links more forward and lower, and while the first version was made as I drew it, it didnt work out like I needed it to. So I was waiting for the V2.0 to be done and I got those pcs today as well as the rest of the air/gas/brake lines and fittings. So hopefully can put it back on its wheels this weekend.

      Then comes bending and running all the hardlines, something new for me so we shall see how it goes

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      12-02-2011 01:47 PM #235
      Quote Originally Posted by grizzlyone View Post
      Then comes bending and running all the hardlines, something new for me so we shall see how it goes
      Hardline can certainly be fun and it can be a royal pain as well. I found using a length of soft line (aluminum, copper, even coat hanger) can help a ton with planning my routing/bends. Its hand bendable and can be straightened out really easily.

      Are you using the newer style "alloy" lines? This stuff is way easier to work with. It bends like butter and makes perfect flares every time. I only had one leak when I installed the under dash master cyl in my truck and that was only because I failed to tighten one of the fittings tight enough.

      Hope that helps.

    11. 12-02-2011 01:51 PM #236
      Quote Originally Posted by grizzlyone View Post
      Also got the G60 TB front housing back from welding. I cut off the ISV/G60 re-circ set up off the bottom and had a flange welded on for the BOV, Its on in the pic above and here is a side shot for a better view:

      Have always wondered why more people don't do this.

    12. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-03-2011 06:39 PM #237
      Well got the bent up pcs welded up, drilled, notched, primed and painted for the front lower links:



      And then bolted them in, 2 M8's in new holes up, and then 2 short M10s in the original leaf mount holes:



      Then worked on the 'box' next to the gas tank with a bolt in rear U-shaped pc od 10ga alu and another pc of 10ga alu for the bottom:





      Its going to house the air pump, fuel pump, fuel filter and small sealed battery. Tomorrow I will put on the rear stud axles and brakes and can put it on its wheels again...well sort of will have to rig something for the airbags to hold air in the mean time

    13. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-04-2011 05:43 PM #238
      So it turns out a got the fittings order a bit wrong and dont have all the parts to plumb the bags in, so its not back on its feet yet. However I did get some work done. Throttle and clutch cables are now hooked up and run, along with a few other engine bay details:





      Also made up a rear wiring harness for the fuel pump, air pump, fuel gauge sender, and air bag pressure switch in the rear

    14. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-04-2011 06:47 PM #239
      Ok, I couldnt take not putting the wheels on to at least see how my shorten axle worked out and how the suspension worked so used some jack stands and....

      Hanging with no air in the bags and the bags ~6" extended:



      With all the weight of the rear end on the jack stand and the lift arms in the back just not touching the body it still only compressed the bags to ~ 3.5":



      So yeah the rear end of a Caddy doesnt weigh much. The bags will go down to 2.5" with mroe weight on them, and will extend up to 7.5" fully inflated

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      12-04-2011 11:33 PM #240
      Looks like she fit together quite nicely (like we would have expected less )

    16. 12-05-2011 12:01 AM #241
      Motor is looking amazing.

    17. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-08-2011 11:17 AM #242
      UPS brought more parts, got my 17lb Braille battery and the rest of the fittings for all the plumbing of the bags/fuel/brakes/etc. Also dropped off the intak mani, intake pipe, and water neck for final welding of the last bits.

    18. 12-08-2011 05:16 PM #243
      Quote Originally Posted by deathhare. View Post
      Motor is looking amazing.
      this

    19. Member Mr. Chan's Avatar
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      12-08-2011 06:40 PM #244
      Had the chance to look this over a few nights ago. The whole thing is pretty impressive. Nice job.

    20. Member Blu_Hare's Avatar
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      12-08-2011 07:02 PM #245
      mmmmmmmmm

    21. 12-08-2011 08:15 PM #246
      Done right all the way this time. Way to go bro. If I can ever get the shop space n time for a year or so, I'm doing mine. RESPECT

    22. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-10-2011 08:24 PM #247
      Well the hardline experience did not bode well. Couldnt make the bends tight enough in several locations as well as not being able to make the straight sections truly straight.

      So will go with the back up plan and run the gas with -6an and -4an for the air bags in the black braided Pro-lite hose all around.

      Finished up the wiring for back under the bed, and realized the fuel pump and sender connectors were regular old 2 pin trailer connectors. So picked up a few extras of those to run my new wiring.

    23. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-14-2011 08:09 PM #248
      More parts arrived, therefore more work was done. I got the bits for my V2.0 control arms:



      I have combined ideas from various designs I have seen people make to come up with my version. The big difference is I am not using any heim joints. Heims just aren't made for the public roads nor for everyday use nor for the changes in weather. So I am using the stock front bushings, well in poly, and for the rear bushings I am using the same ones I used for my upper links in my 4 link but with a built in angled stud. So I welded on a fine thread 3/4" stud to the stock MK1 bushing housing:



      I am still waiting on a pc from the laser cutting guy which will be the balljoint mount along with have the provision for the clevis mount. Along those lines I am not using a MK1 ball joint, but the 85-86 MK2 small ball joint. Its the same diameter as the Mk1, but has 2 advantages for me. One it is designed to use M8 bolts, not M7 or rivets like the MK1. And two, even though the outer two holes are in the same place as the MK1 the rear is located further back and again serves to make the mounting stronger. And I guess there is another small advantage is MK2's have available a ball joint lock plate with captured nuts which again will just make the mounting stronger.
      Last edited by grizzlyone; 12-14-2011 at 08:18 PM.

    24. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-18-2011 06:42 PM #249
      So close







      Still have plenty to do in the bay, cleaning up the routing of the various "things" but all the wiring is there and connected in the pics. I am remote mounting the FPR and its holder so I still need to make the bracket and run the engine bay fuel lines. But not much left in the bay beyond that.

      Once again some fittings, or lack there of, have held up finishing the air bag set up, but hopefully that shows up monday.

    25. Member grizzlyone's Avatar
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      12-23-2011 02:53 PM #250
      Got the pcs back from the laser cutter I was waiting on for the control arms,



      And here you can see the diff between a MK1 balljoint and an early small MK2 balljoint:



      The outer 2 holes are in the same place, just the middle is 'deeper' in the arm than the MK1. As well you can see the lock plates you can get for the MK2 balljoint.

      And all mocked up:


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