Which plastic polish system are you using?
#281
Did more work on the int, 90% of the wiring is now done including all the 'new'. I just need to hit up the junkyard again to get a couple more connectors and pigtails from a cabby for the last 2 bits.
Took some time to work on the OEM bubble window I got a while back, it was in decent shape but very yellow almost to the point you could see anything through it.
Before:
Now:
It wasnt dust or dirt in the before pics, it was just that yellow and oxidized. The first after pic is my first round going through all the steps. While the second pic of the top is step one in the refinish process. The flat portion still has some cloudy areas, but all the yellow is gone. I will probably go over it all again to try and get it as clear as possible. But I am quite happily surprised with the results thus far.
#283
The 3M headlight restoration kit. So far I have used 1 kit total for the whole thing.
#284
Novus brand is always popular in the plastics industry. They have 3 "stages" if you will.
#285
Yeah the 3M I have used on headlights with good success, so I went with it again on this. The kit goes through 4 steps, 500, 800, 3000 wet, and then a final polish.
#286
Well after having to modify the beejesus out of the RJS cell and still not having it exactly like I wanted. Not to mention being more than a little worried it would end up leaking.....UPS brought this today:
All TIG'd alu with the drop sump moved to the middle along with -6an fittings. Also had a VDO sender unit put in the top. All said and done with its thinner walls vs the plastic cell and it being able to be .5" taller without the screw on cap of the plastic cell it should be closer to 9gals than the 8gal of the RJS cell.
#287
Da Unicorn build
Parts for sell:
Mk3 parts: click here
Mk1 parts: CLICK HERE
Rare mk1 caddy parts: Click here
#288
#289
Its going in the same location as the RJS cell was in:
I had this one made to the same dimensions so it would fit in the same spot.
#291
No, I am running shocks. They are in the pic above as well as many other earlier in the thread
#292
Unhide your hat! Good team, good work, greetings professionals.
This is my next project for this year.
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Last edited by krasi1; 01-05-2012 at 09:36 AM.
#293
I think yours is the only build on here that I absolutely love every aspect of! Even down to the color!!! Keep it up, and props to you!!Cant wait to tear into mine
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#294
Well wheel plans have changed as I picked up a set of 3pc Gotti's for a killer deal:
They came off a BMW 2002 and are 4x100 57.1CB and staggered 15x6 front and 15x7 rear. Of course I cant leave them alone.....
A refreshing hour long dip in stripper bucket and the centers were down to bare metal:
Then a little bit of sanding touch up and hit all over with a green scotch brite and they were ready for the etch primer:
I've talked to Jason at Rotiform and they are going to spin me 4 new outer lips to up size them
#296
#299
#300
What kind of striper did you use?
#302
#303
More reasons to hate on me getting the wheels......
A quick mock up with some of my 15" RS parts, but that is the same size Rotiform is making for me 2.5". Also tested out a few options for hardware, both style and finish.
#304
Wheels are sick
#305
I have to admit it's better to see someone building them better than I could've than to watch someone do something stupid with them. Keep up the good work!
#308
That's not too bad for custom lips. Especially when you consider the lips on my Works run about that and they're just standard sizes.
#311
Meaning Work wants way to much for their lips and always have
#312
I haven't looked into getting them from Work, but the ones I'm planning to get range from about $200-240 depending on the size. Then I can keep the originals safe in the attic![]()
#314
Wait a minute... you cheated! You have stock arms back on!
Did the new versions not pan out? Did that rear mount bind? Are you working on a new plan for that rear link or just skipping it for now?
#315