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Thread: Some of my work and other cars around the shop

  1. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-12-2012 12:11 PM #36
    Painted by my boss, jdm as fu(k yo.

    I used a vinyl stencil to paint the Indian name instead of using a sticker:

    Copied the old helmet with a few changes:

  2. Member foundubbedriver's Avatar
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    05-13-2012 04:17 PM #37
    nice work.
    instagram @jcdubb3r - exklusiv motorsports.

  3. Member VeeDubGolf's Avatar
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    05-21-2012 07:42 PM #38
    love the helmet work!
    I'm here for the pics and classifieds.

    SLAWbuilt

  4. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-21-2012 08:20 PM #39
    Quote Originally Posted by VeeDubGolf View Post
    love the helmet work!
    It's a nice change of pace from doing cars all day.

  5. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 01:55 PM #40
    looks great! Where is your shop located in Milford? Maybe get my corrado done there if the price is right. Have a few quotes already and know where im looking to spend.

    Somethings to do:

    Bumpers have been plastic welded, need filler
    Fenders have been pulled, need filler
    antenna has been welded, needs filler
    rear wiper needs to be redone (welded, filler)
    then full paint job after that custom work including doors and jams.

  6. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 06:59 PM #41
    Quote Originally Posted by 1broknrado View Post
    looks great! Where is your shop located in Milford? Maybe get my corrado done there if the price is right. Have a few quotes already and know where im looking to spend.

    Somethings to do:

    Bumpers have been plastic welded, need filler
    Fenders have been pulled, need filler
    antenna has been welded, needs filler
    rear wiper needs to be redone (welded, filler)
    then full paint job after that custom work including doors and jams.
    My shop charges $100/ hr for labor plus materials. So the price most likely won't be right. If you send me some pics of the car and I can give you an idea of a price if I do it on the side.

  7. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 07:03 PM #42
    The shop is in Stratford off Stratford Ave.

  8. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 07:23 PM #43
    ... where in stratford ave? i store my corrado at my dad's house near the ABC place.

  9. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 07:47 PM #44
    Quote Originally Posted by 1broknrado View Post
    ... where in stratford ave? i store my corrado at my dad's house near the ABC place.
    It's at the end of Lupes drive.

  10. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 07:56 PM #45
    Haha my car is like a stones throw away from there on the corner.

  11. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    05-23-2012 08:45 PM #46
    Small world. Would you be able to disassemble the car before bringing it for paint?

  12. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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    05-24-2012 07:28 PM #47
    Yea i've taken it apart a million times. Look through my build thread for pics.

    and 100$ whoa, you guys put 14k gold flake in the bondo and paint too!? lol jk

  13. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    06-03-2012 11:01 AM #48
    Cleared, wetsanded w/ 1000 grit and recleared:





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    06-09-2012 06:15 PM #49
    Quote Originally Posted by 1broknrado View Post
    Yea i've taken it apart a million times. Look through my build thread for pics.

    and 100$ whoa, you guys put 14k gold flake in the bondo and paint too!? lol jk
    No, looking at the pics that show the shop in the background, they actually give a damn about the cars they work on, and they seem to be actual tradesmen, not just some body shop monkey making something look good enough for insurance companies, and the owner who just wants it all one color.

    Most of these shops that do high quality work charge more than your typical production shop only concerned about meeting a quota for insurance companies.

    This **** looks awesome though, work looks top notch.
    B.O.B.B. 2013

  15. Member 1broknrado's Avatar
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    06-09-2012 08:15 PM #50
    ^^^

    i completely agree. I wouldn't bring my corrado to anyone else besides someone that cares and there is a lot of love in these cars.

  16. 06-15-2012 10:04 PM #51
    What kinda base/clear are you using? Weve been having aeriois dieback problems at out shop recently

  17. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    06-16-2012 02:27 PM #52
    Quote Originally Posted by DeeevO View Post
    What kinda base/clear are you using? Weve been having aeriois dieback problems at out shop recently
    Glasurit 55 line base coat with either 923-550 or 923-255 clear. What does your shop use?

  18. 06-17-2012 11:06 PM #53
    Judging from your cars and work its seems this shop would be out of reach for the average joe with a rabbit ? Lol nice work. I'd love to get a nice paint job but even a cheap one is tough to come up with the cash these days.


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  19. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    06-19-2012 11:14 PM #54
    Quote Originally Posted by vwcrackerjack View Post
    Judging from your cars and work its seems this shop would be out of reach for the average joe with a rabbit ? Lol nice work. I'd love to get a nice paint job but even a cheap one is tough to come up with the cash these days.


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    Yea we don't really do budget jobs. I can ask if someone wants to do it on the side though.

  20. 06-20-2012 06:07 PM #55
    That would be cool. It's basically like a polar white color now I'd want to do either that or alpine white. Any suggestions on painting the convertible top or is there a way to make it stay white? I'd like the car to be white but it looks stupid with a top that won't stay white. Thanks


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  21. 06-25-2012 06:37 PM #56
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv View Post
    Glasurit 55 line base coat with either 923-550 or 923-255 clear. What does your shop use?
    I work at a carstar and we by contract have to use the RM paint line. We were using DC5100 ctr clear but 3 weeks ago our Shop manager suggested switching to 923-255 due to the dieback. The glasurit is literally like glass. Our painter was reducing the 5100 because the RM paint rep gave us information sheets calling for 4:1:10%.Turns out it doesnt call for reducer on the RM site. The only bad thing about the Glasurit is it does take some time to dry and seems to fall easier when it gets baked. Why kinda gun and tip are you spraying with if you dont mind me asking? Ive been really tempted to get an iwata supernova.

  22. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    06-26-2012 10:02 PM #57
    Quote Originally Posted by DeeevO View Post
    I work at a carstar and we by contract have to use the RM paint line. We were using DC5100 ctr clear but 3 weeks ago our Shop manager suggested switching to 923-255 due to the dieback. The glasurit is literally like glass. Our painter was reducing the 5100 because the RM paint rep gave us information sheets calling for 4:1:10%.Turns out it doesnt call for reducer on the RM site. The only bad thing about the Glasurit is it does take some time to dry and seems to fall easier when it gets baked. Why kinda gun and tip are you spraying with if you dont mind me asking? Ive been really tempted to get an iwata supernova.
    255 calls for 10% reduction, we reduce it 30%. I spray using heated air with a devilbiss tekna prolite w/ a 1.2 tip. That's for base and clear. 30 mins between coats with slow hardener/reducer, I've waited hours before baking. The restoration work is nice so we don't always have to rush paint jobs out.
    Last edited by johnnynumfiv; 06-26-2012 at 10:06 PM.

  23. 07-04-2012 10:11 AM #58
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnynumfiv View Post
    255 calls for 10% reduction, we reduce it 30%. I spray using heated air with a devilbiss tekna prolite w/ a 1.2 tip. That's for base and clear. 30 mins between coats with slow hardener/reducer, I've waited hours before baking. The restoration work is nice so we don't always have to rush paint jobs out.
    You clear with the 1.2 tip? Im still young and havent had time to experience using different tips and or guns. From pictures it looks like we have the exact same climate controlled down draft booth. Im just starting to pay around with the climate.

  24. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    07-14-2012 07:42 PM #59
    Quote Originally Posted by DeeevO View Post
    You clear with the 1.2 tip? Im still young and havent had time to experience using different tips and or guns. From pictures it looks like we have the exact same climate controlled down draft booth. Im just starting to pay around with the climate.
    Yep, with the heated compressed air it makes the clear flow out great. I'm "young" in the trade at 24, my boss is more than twice my age, haha! The booth is a future cure, and it's a POS, we are pushing for an outdoor true downdraft booth. It will give us more shop space and better paint results. During the winter I keep the booth around 70, in the summer I run the booth without the heat on so it's ambient air coming into the booth. We adjusted the bake temperature until the painted panels reached 140 degrees with a laser temperature gun.

  25. 07-16-2012 10:26 AM #60
    Some very nice work going on there!
    John Marsteller
    Mishimoto Automotive

  26. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    08-11-2012 11:57 AM #61
    Pegaso Z-103 off to Pebble Beach:
    This has been a 10+ year restoration. Every component of this car has been restored.
    Before:

    After:




    3.2L DOHC Dry Sump Dual quad Weber carbs... in 1953.

  27. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    08-22-2012 05:50 PM #62

    Good enough for 2nd in class at Pebble Beach!

  28. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    01-17-2013 08:46 PM #63
    1953 Ferrari 166mm Oblin body
    Ready for Cavallino Classic!

    Working on a 1960 Wendler Bentley Shooting Brake for Amelia Island.

  29. Member johnnynumfiv's Avatar
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    04-04-2013 10:14 PM #64
    The Bentley didn't get any awards but made it to the show.

    The Ghibli I did a while back got second in class.

    The Pegaso got first in class!

    A 1938 Bentley that I have a lot of work scored second in class, no pics of that though.

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