also how does the tial 50mm do?
If you have to have one the aftermarket valves, the Synapse synchronic bov is the one to have nowadays.
It can be recirculated or vented to the atmosphere and be used in both pull or push orientation. Supposedly it's really fast and can hold BT pressure.
However, you can always go the madmax way, and have the same performance for a fraction of the cost.
Not that I have any facts to back it up, but I do enjoy my APR R1. It is just low profile, no springs to mess with. Kind of like a great upgrade from the OEM DV and guaranteed for life. I had a Forge 007 and messing with the springs was always a pain. And I was constantly relubing the piston with Mobil 1 syn grease. I just like the APR because its so easy and maintenance free.
Feels like it responds faster than the Forge did, but again only butt dyno data
I'll say that the boost awnser is incredible compared to the forge valve I had before, you're right when you say pistons valves are lazy. The only thing I was afraid of was the "swoosh swoosh swoosh" sound i was hearing that reminded me of a BOV I had on a previous car that was set too stiff and destroyed the turbo by sending back pressure to it. Other than that, this valve is awesomeness!!! I might develop one designed forr our cars that won't need all the fittings and will fit straight there
The rapid "swoosh swoosh swoosh" sound you are describing (we went trough this via PM but I'm posting the info so everyone knows) is typical of all diaphragm based valve. The reason you hear it more than a Bosh 710 is because this valve recirculate a lot more volume and is metallic. Plastic valves tend to be quieter but are not as heavy duty as their metallic counterparts.
As far as making the valve plug and play and fit better, I have all the required parts needed but the DIY guys like you have to come up with your own solutions.
The problem with the aftermarket diaphragm valves designed for the 1.8t is:
1) They are not built for higher boost applications, anything over 15 psi they can not hold properly(soft springs)
2) They start to leak at early pressure(7-10 psi). Kind of like a wastegate, at a certain psi, they partially crack open, forcing the turbo to work extra hard to reach it's targeted boost(creating heat).
For a "stockish" car they are just fine, but the minute you get a tune they are weak at best .
Max - Sorry I havent posted pics, but in refreshing the suspension it seems like everything the shop took apart, subsequently broke and had to be replaced.
The DV kit Max sent me went in very easily. All the fittings and down sizing pieces were perfect and I would highly recommend anyone buying a DSM valve and sending it to Max for retrofit.
I will post pics as soon as I can.
You'd have to test it, like I did (test for both spring holding pressure and recovery speed, especially at high psi)
Or you can try a madmax valve and realize how much your previous valve was sucking at life .
you guys are starting to make me wish I lived on the other coast. Not much love for the TT and all its madness in the NW. I was supposed to be in upstate NY next month but that race got cancelled, now it maybe early summer next time I am out there.
Thanks for all the help.
I will let Max answer that, my install instructions were just to remove old DV and re-install new DV in a identical fashion. I think it looks pretty cool sitting up that high but it also means that the engine cover doesnt fit. It might have to do with already having a forge DV installed? I bought the car and have slowly found more and more parts that the original owner had swapped out.
Although identical in function, the valves designed for EVO 9 and MR have a different nipple orientation than the valves on the JDM evo and EVO X(mainly because of different piping location on the various motors).
I could have told you what type to get for the best fit, but Omer already had a patent on the Madmax valve .
Try opening and flipping the nipple 360 degrees, bang your head a little bit and rotate it another 180 .
Last edited by madmax199; 03-19-2011 at 01:42 PM.
High boost is where it really shined above the rest.
I tested the valve up to 45 psi(we stopped at 45 because we feared of blowing the worm clamps on the tester) and it held without cracking open. What is really amazing to me is that low boost and part throttle are not affected at all, if anything they improved over stock.
still have more of these? The more I close up my system, get connections tighter and the more boost I hold....the more I've started hated my Strat valve each time. If this woud solve the problem...that'd be great.
Always have felt piston valves...while less prone to wear/tear and ripping vs. diaphrapm...and "look" good.....are SLOW and suck.
Options are nice.
Looking to do this and I actually have a DV relocation kit installed in the car.
I have it working flawlessly, on 500 HP evos and a 800 HP Supra at insane psi. If you are looking for real throttle bypass for your TT, this is it.