I got my A3 back today and I drove her for the first time today in abt a month
Hi! I've been reading you for a while, but this is my first post
My 3 door TDI A3 is five years old, but I like to look after it with some mods from time to time. Here are the pics of the last one: new DSG knob, leather console extenders (triangles, I don't know how you call it) and brake hand from S3. Hope you like it :-)
Day I bought it (March, 2006):
A week ago:
Last edited by galanot; 02-14-2011 at 03:26 AM.
replaced the 20amp fuses for all of the electrical sockets...the ones in the front arm rest console stopped working randomly and I sorta got lost in Boston for a few minutes...but they're good now! Forge atmospheric spacer and 6000K HID kit coming this week!
I'm glad you like it
Small list of things I did:
Big turbo (Garret 1852) + Milltek downpipe + Stage 3 ECU tuning
Bilstein Sprint (B8) shocks + H&R springs
RS6 steering wheel
3.2 front brake kit (350x30mm)...
On the outside it looks strictly stock, I like it this way.
Last edited by galanot; 02-14-2011 at 04:00 AM.
Audi A3 2.0TDI '06
Got my car inspected...it's so lowered that they couldn't get a hydraulic jack under the car to check out the undercarriage so the guy said screw it and just passed me on the rest of the checks.
Forge TWINtake arrived and I didn't have enough light to install it today, but i test fitted everything. this is gunna be NUTS
VMR v708 | Hankook Ventus Evo V12 | FK Highsport Coilovers | A.W.E. Catback Exhaust | Forge TWINtake | Forge DV | Forge Adjustable Spacer | Neuspeed dogbone | Paint-Matched Grill | Smoked Tails & Fogs | 30% Tint
I also just found this which looks like a pretty good write-up: http://tadasauce.wordpress.com/2009/...ystem-install/
Last edited by krazyboi; 02-15-2011 at 08:13 AM.
I actually used that write-up from Tadasauce (he had a thread here about it as well) for a lot of inspiration. My enclosure will be in the same location as the factory sub and it will be built similar to his, except I didn't cut that big section out of the side of the car. I did trim some of the tabs where the two pieces are spot welded together, but that's it. I am using a JL Audio 8W3V3, which only needs a .3 cu. ft. enclosure, and has a mounting depth of a little over 4.5", so I didn't need the additional room and didn't want to hack up my car any more than I had to. Also, I am planning on having a solid MDF front on my fiberglass box instead of just an MDF ring with a fiberglass front.
Anyway, if you wanted to make a box similar to that one in the first image you posted, I would just take that styrofoam surround out of the spare tire well and use it to make a negative mold for the enclosure. I would cover that half section of the surround that you want the sub to live in with a couple of layers of painters tape, then spray some pam or something on it and then use some expanding foam to cast your mold. Once it hardens, pull the styrofoam part out, clean any pam off the expanding foam, then line that with painters tape and some pam or something. I would build as much of the "top" (it will be in the bottom of your mold) out of MDF as I could. I would probably use 5/8" for this application. I would build the sides out of fiberglass, since they are curved, and probably bond the fiberglass directly to the MDF top. Once you get a few layers of fiberglass laid and it's cured up, you can pull it out of the mold and lay on a few more layers until you get it up to like 3/8" thick. I would go ahead and cut out the hole for the sub in the top at this point, then cut a hole in the side for your wiring terminals. I would put the terminals right where the enclosure would meet the factory sub location. Make the bottom of the enclosure out of a solid piece of MDF. Trim up the bottom edges of the fiberglass box and then attach the MDF floor using some screws and then fiberglass it in. Once all the fiberglass is all cured up, cover it in some carpet, mount your terminals, wire it up, put some polyfill in the box, and mount your sub. I'd put my amp where the stock sub used to be, hence putting the terminals for the sub in that location. Plus you could easily tap into the existing wiring harness for the factory sub to get your remote turn on for your amp, as well as your line level outputs for the sub. If you want to amp your fronts then you'll have to get line outs from the head unit, but that's not too hard either. Let me know if you really want to build one of these things, and I could give you some more detailed info
^^ thanks for the info. I use to have a subwoofer, but it was in a self standing box. I also already had an amp where the old subwoofer is, so that's good to go. Its just a matter of building a base box.
I'll see what I can do when I get my car back.