Nice . I see the remote filler, how do you have it routed?
Page 12 = Owned
Last edited by DarkSideGTI; 05-16-2011 at 02:07 PM.
Do all MKIV's have the same A/C lines? My DP burnt a hole in one of mine by the firewall. I took it to a local hose shop last week and they couldn't fix it because our cars have metric hoses and their standard fittings would not fit. Their suggestion was to weld on two -12 AN bungs and run a -12 hose. Ideally I'd like to run custom bent hardlines, but don't have time for that. So I might just buy a used line off a junker or something. For some reason I am thinking R32's are different though.
try sourcing the R32 line, the one from the other cars will bring something to the front of your really nicely shaved bay.
Edit: I just checked ant its barely noticeable, its just the fill up ports that sticks out from the rad support and I remember I was able to bend a little to tuck most of it under the rad support
Last edited by huichox4; 05-16-2011 at 06:55 PM.
thanks, it's a really cool color. It is a flat candy color that changes in different light.
here are all his flat candy colors.
Today I made decent progress. At the end of the day I hooked up the radiator hoses and started filling it with coolant. I only put a bit in and checked for any leaks, well I found one where the crack pipe enters the water pump housing. I took off the t-stat housing and then the crack pipe and noticed the o-ring was ripped. Must have happened when I installed it. I will probably have to wait until Monday to get a new o-ring as I doubt any auto parts stores will have any 34.5x3.55 mm o-rings. I was going to try to start it tomorrow too. o well I can wait a couple more days.
Front wheels are finally on the ground.
I bought a universal o-ring kit from autozone and one of them was good. use some coolant to get the o-ring wet and also the pump inlet housing so it slides in better then clean the excess.
it ripped on me because it was slightly misaligned and there was some interferance with something else and tried twisting it in place slowly....
have to make sure you slide it in perfectly aligned.
good progress man
got the bumper back from paint and test fit it. Rad support is not aligned at all.
Last edited by DarkSideGTI; 05-23-2011 at 12:54 PM.
so anyone got a good pre-startup checklist for a new motor? I have already checked most of the bolts, fluid levels, and I plan on unplugging the fuel pump fuse and cranking it over for a bit to build up oil pressure. I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up.
This list might be 2 days late but just in case you could go and take the spark plugs out and check compression at the same time you are priming it.
spark plug gaps
new or stabilized fuel (depending on how long was it been standing)
ventilated area because some times the new parts will emit some fumes
let the coolant reservoir cap open until it warms up to let the extra air pockets out but keep an eye on it to close it before your coolant overflows
clear any debris, tools, rags, beer bottles, empty beer bottles etc.
copy of the break in procedure of the engine (if you are going with the mototune route or something different)
video camera recording the event
Cigar to celebrate it works without blowing up,
yeah battery is behind my seat now. I removed an interior panel and put the ground under a bolt going to the body, it should be good. All other electrical items work, headlights, stereo, fuel pump, etc. My battery was a little low on juice so I took it out and put it on the charger. But I did take a good battery out of another car and it still would not turn over. The starter doesn't even attempt to work. It's got to be something with the ignition switch, clutch switch, or one of the relay's. I guess it possibly could be a bad ground, but I checked them out and everything looks good. I do not yet have a motor to chassis ground hooked up yet, but it should still turn over right?