Looking good Nick
My system is weird that way. My alt checker says fail but the car charges fine and no workshop.
You must look at several different readings to accurately pinpoint the culprit.
These step described are using a DMM:
-Get pad of paper and document readings for "No Load" vs "Load"
1. Take a battery Voltage reading between pos/neg with Eng on & off (~ +/- 3V difference)
2. Take alternator output reading, DIRECTLY from Alternator using case as ground - (~ 13-14V)
3. Then take Voltage Drop tests
*Positive side - from alt + to battery + post (Should be no more than .05V)This is a common weak spot on MKIV's
*Negative side - from alt case to battery neg post (Should be no more than .05V)
This should help you get a quick baseline on the matter and usually uncovers a glaring problem. BUT, there can be other variables such as heat, load and AMP's that will give a more precise look into the charging system.
I would also advise you to perform all steps with no loads on, THEN turn on anything and EVERYTHING possible and repeat.
I wrote this up pretty quick, so if this doesn't make sense feel free to ask for clarification...
this cooling system is going to be the death of me. The filler neck i installed is basically just that. A filler neck. I had to both vent air out of the system at the upper rad hose and by loosening the an fitting on the heater box. hoping I finally got all the air out of the system. I also got a 19 psi radiator cap.
Will my low speed fan turn on without the A/C installed? It doesn't seem to kick on just by turning on A/C, but then again the pressure switch is not hooked up to anything.
More than happy to help if you want to call or text. One year, custom setup, no bubbles, no over heating. 105 degrees and the temp stays dead on.
Take filler neck, buy funnel that seals around it add a hose and a bigger funnel. Support on hood latch and fill with coolant. Keep adding as the bubbles come out. Turn on the car and let it warm up some and add coolant as needed. It will suck in more. Let the thermo open then turn off the car. Let it cool some and check all hoses for air. Add some more to the funnel now. This method cant leave air in their. Physics is on your side 100% here.
Fan wise, I literally unplugged the front connector to the FCM and both fans work perfect.
- Only turn on once car has heated up
- Both run
- They only stay on for about 3 minutes after a hot drive
Eventually I will dig up what unplugging that did but it works 100% now.
So the last round of bleeding air out of the coolant system must have done the trick. Last night I took the car out around the neighborhood getting it nice and hot. Then when I got home I let it idle in the driveway for like 10 minutes, both fans were working great and the temps never creeped above 190.
I also decided to test out the new UM launch control. Turn your speakers up.
Last night around 2:30-3:00AM I hooked my laptop up to my Klipsch surround sound and turned the volume around 2/3rds the way it could go up... I played it on mute about a second before you stepped on the 2-step and un-muted it... My bed and bedroom is right on the other side of the wall where my girl was sleeping...
tonight Im sleeping on the couch where Im typing this from... and also received a 3rd noise violation complaint from the neighbor upstairs... I saw that coming from the stomping on the floor... but i seriously thought sleeping on the couch was something that only happened in movies or television shows... the locked bedroom door says otherwise. who knew?!
so this popped up today, car has been driving fine. I really doubt the timing is off, it started running kinda rough when these popped up.
2 Faults Found:
17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correl.
P1347 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent