never had an issues for the 2+ years i had a heater core. seals to the neck and makes the funnel itself part of the system. the funnel will be plenty higher than the heater core. attach the funnel to the filler neck, fill the system leaving about half of the funnel full. let the car run and work the air out like normal. make sure the t-stat opens it usually takes a while just idling. once you get no more bubbles out shut the car off and let it fully cool. pull off the funnel, throw the filler neck cap on and your good to go.
funnel info is: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel, got mine from NAPA
there is always another way.
has anyone just considered going to a shop and having the system force-filled? the local vw/audi shop here in town has some machine for flushing the coolant system that can fill the whole thing from any port w/o leaving any bubbles. seems like it would be the easiest way....although not necessarily the cheapest.
I tried the spill free system but you still lose some getting the funnel off and the cap back on and lost coolant means air in the system. Again it may work with air but in Texas with no aux radiator I had to have a very high functioning system and this is the only setup that worked for me. Pics soon, car is outside, it's 100 and I just got home My overflow is mounted by the passenger side head light. Forcing coolant in would in theory work but you would need a vent in the system to push air out and again you would allow air in as soon as you tried to cap it.
the highest point in the system is the heater core itself. if there is a minute amount of air in the system it will rise up and get trapped in the top of the heater core. hell ive quick filled mine before during the summer just trying to get the car from my shop to my house (25 miles) without using the funnel and everything was just fine. only thing you loose is heat since not much is going through the core.
Pics are so embarrassing...
So I found a possible solution browsing around on summit, but it's not cheap.
I have an extra available bung on the plastic tee under my charge pipe that I could tap for an NPT to an fitting.
I could run a remote filler neck and place it above the heater core.
There is this one with a -16 bung on the side.
Or this one which has two -12 lines on the bottom. I would only need one.
what they use at the dealers is a ventury 3 way valve that you hook up to your air compressor (it has to be a big one and tons of psi) you pull vacuum on the whole cooling system when the valve is open to pass air through it then you close it and make sure the system has enough vacuum (it has a gauge) on the 3rd port of the valve you connect a hose that has to be pre filled with coolant and the other end in a container with the total amount of coolant and a little more of what your system is going to use then you just open the valve and the whole system gets filled up no air left in there
As someone else stated, if you pull a vacuum on the system to before filling it with coolant you should be able to eliminate any air in the system. This is the VW approved method, and really the most reliable for many reasons. It's very similar to an A/C machine in utilizing vacuum for filling.
Also, before you scrap your idea completely think about this. Your heater core is higher than your fill point, so you simply jack up the front of the car. Using this temporary incline to help you avoid any air pockets in the system is actually an old trick that is utilized on some older OEM Toyotas/Lexus. Honestly if you were to utilize this method in addition to a vacuum filling procedure you will have NO problems at all.
You may still choose to change your setup, but either way I would file that little tip for future use. Since your changing your cooling system you never know what may crop up later requiring diagnostic/testing. This method is great for eliminating the possibility of air in the system.
As you guys can see from this pic there is no room for the filler cap to go on the upper radiator hose.
That nipple coming off the radiator has a press on barbed fitting in either straight or 90*. That causes it to sit out even farther. If I was able to mount the cap there, it is right under the rad support and makes the cap very hard to get to. The only way I think I will be able to run it in the upper rad hose is to re-route my intercooler piping and inlet for the intake manifold. Or run a remote filler cap like I posted last night.
I like the remote filler or the vacuum system. I tried the jacking up the front method... Rear bumper hit ground before I could get it higher then the HC haha. Let me know about the remote filler. That would be great hidden in my fender!
but i understand completely on your situation.....
p.s. - i really like that remote fill, that has me thinking for sure on how my new setup in my gti is going to be redone
3/4" hose (1/2" NPT threaded at base in case you decide to change em out). i'm thinking this could go inline at the HC line and if you want to use a remote overflow, you're good. if not, you can use the barb to fill/bleed.
B. That would work amazing for me I just need a non filler 1-1-1/2 or was it 1-1/2-1-3/4 connector to go from rad to block. **** thread jack, sorry man.
I decided to finally replace my outer cv boot on the passenger side. I took the axle out last night and tore everything down. The joint is in pretty good condition and only a little dirt had gotten in. I cleaned everything really good and am ordering a CV boot kit today.
I made a bracket for the power steering reservoir and mounted it next to the passenger side frame rail and ran all the lines to it. I also ordered the remote filler stuff. Tonight I am painting the brake calipers, finally getting rid of that ugly yellow.
I just used a nylon brush and a lot of brake cleaner. But between getting off work late and the rain tonight I am postponing the painting until tomorrow.
It was too cold to paint them last night. needs to be at least 50*.
I swapped out my red coil pack covers for some black ones and also got my black allen head screws for my motor mounts in. The coolant fill re-location has also begun, the rest of the parts should get here today.