i honestly cant remember since its been a while since i had mine apart. i do remember one of the sprockets moving though when i did mine because it pushed oil out all over my hands and tools
I will look into it. I noticed you have your coolant overfill in the same place I have mine. How did you attach yours? I used some self tapping sheet metal screws and it seems to be pretty stable, but wanted to know if there is a better way.
I bought one of those cheap ebay rubber lips and installed it last night. I think I can do a better job so I might re-install it, but it doesn't look too bad for $15.
sooooooo. Yesterday I threw it on the rollers.
She was pulling a good bit of timing up top so we decided to fix the issue and then come back at a later date to see what she can really do. I was running 25 psi on 91 octane and was only able to manage 450/450. torque was really dropping off up top. I need to get the timing issues sorted and possibly get a bigger exhaust housing.
It was enough to win the Euro SL,UT Fest highest HP battle though. I beat a Supercharged E92 M3 that made 441 whp and a 12V turbo Corrado that also made 441 whp. The show was the day before and my car ended up taking 1st place in best stance and 1st place in VW.
Here are some pics from the show.
The trophies, I got three gold ones.
Check out the rest of the pics from the show. It was the first year, so hopefully next year is even bigger.
car looks dope man, 450 to the wheels is nice man but at 25psi its a bit of a push. with your setup you should be pushing more, its all in the timing man.
I think you dont really need any bigger exhaust mani (you have a T-4 .82 right?) thats plenty
with a t-3 .82 (much smaller) I made 408 to the wheels at 17-18 psi and the graphs showed the back pressure from the restriction so when I changed to a t-3 1.06 which is like a t-4 .82ar it felt way better.
do you have the graphs?
I can probably dig up the hi-res shot.
Here is my dyno.
What's crazy is my other sheet says Max power was 377.3 uncorrected. I think they said the correction factor that day was around 18-19%. It also lists the weight at 3750 lbs, not sure if the dyno takes that into consideration.
so the other day I started hearing a clunking noise in my rear passenger suspension. I took the wheel off to inspect it to find that the upper shock mount bolt was missing and the shock was just flopping around. I tried getting a new bolt from the dealer, but they didn't have any so I picked up a M10x75 bolt from Lowes and hacked 10mm off of it. I also had to hammer the shock mount a bit because the loose shock bent it a bit. Not sure how that bolt wiggled it's way out after over a year.
Have you resolved your cam sensor and "timing" issue?
I had a similar run in with my car when I rebuilt the motor and could NOT figure it out. Luckily after several days of confusion we figured it out and I continue to see other make the same mistake, even technicians.
In a nutshell my overall timing was right between the crank and cams. However, the motor was still out of time.
I was getting incorrect allocation faults for my cam sensors and another fault for G28, crank sensor. The car ran and drove just fine, but didn't seem to have the power it should. After MUCH debate and a couple arguments in the shop on the matter. I decided to give it a whirl, I had literally exhausted all other options.
I put everything in time and pulled off the chain covers to the head. I took the chain off the cylinder head and secured it to a bungie cord hanging from the hood latch. Make note that you do not want any slack so that the chain wont come loose from the intermediate gear below. While the chain was taut and free from the cylinder head I rotated the crank 360*. I then reassembled everything according to specification in regards to cyl head timing. Fired the car up and actually had a fault for the cam sensors but it was different then before, earlier I had switched them for diagnosis purposes. I switched them the sensors back and have had no problems or faults to this day, about 2 years later.
Basically the car is in time, BUT not according to the intermediate gear. The ECM checks the crank vs the cam sensors and realized that the values were off. ELSA web instructions are absolute garbage on the matter. The instructions are very vague and depict reference marks that are not there. And in essence you have a 50/50 shot of getting it right. Unless you are looking for this issue you would never find it because all reference marks show that the engine is timed.
I don't know much about your situation, but what little I do know sounds eerily familiar. So I hope this helps and feel free to ask questions. I tried to be as clear and descriptive as possible.