Thanks guys. Glad your happy Mike. I used a type 3 engine cover for the pattern.
So the heater tube is now gone. Gotta start the radiator setup next.
If you mess around with the stock mount locations it hugs the oil pan quite nicely.
I will be using these mounts. A few years ago I swapped a Vortec V6 in a Toyota 4x4 pickup
and these mounts were left over. I just can't bring myself to use the original mkII mounts. It is no longer supporting a fwd engine/trans combo and it just doesn't need all that. I have figured out where I can pickup the original block holes and will make the brackets tomorrow. Was also looking at the exhaust downpipe and it looks like I will be able to use it after all.
Very good and nice job.
I did the same kind of modification with my 76 Westfalia double deck with a Nissan 2.0l 4cl in line, also pretty easy job and good results. the only difference is that i had installed the radiator in the same engine area (back, left side) and remove the plate to have a grill installed. With the electric fan, it was good enough and avoid the front modification.
You are making great progress! You were not kidding about getting it done in a week.
When you say play around with the stock mount locations what do you mean? Redrill?
Also very interested in whatever you come up with for mounts.
What do you have in mind for a rad? I have one from a 2003 dodge durango that I plan to use with a small push pull electric fan.
No. Use the stock holes. No need to drill. Inboard on one side outboard on the other. Position the bar for the best fit.
The exhaust is done. Just need to weld on on o2 sensor bung. Once I run it make sure there are no leaks, I'll blast it and powder coat it with 1000 degree powder coat.
Mounts will be finished tomorrow. As far as radiators are concerned, you need to run a large radiator if you are going to run it underneath. I am using one from a '73-'86 full size chevy pickup with A/C. That should be the minimum size to run. Also running two fans from a ford taurus. Dime a dozen at the wreckers. A small single fan will not cut it.
Wow, excellent progress. I started my conversion months ago and it hasn't come that far yet. I am working on mine in a cramped space in my spare time and I don't know if my engine is ever going to be as clean looking as that one.
I'm bolting a low-mileage 1.8L 1990 golf motor up to a Mexican transmission's bellhousing and starter and will be using the mexican bearer bar as well. I plan to put the rad on the nose housed inside a fake spare tire assembly. The mexican flywheel uses a 228mm clutch and pressure plate, same as a late-bay or vanagon.
From what I can see, my mexican bellhousing will move the engine back about 2" further than my current transmission does.
It has been a learning experience for sure.
Question for you: I see you have capped off the heater outlet on the head. Are you planning to run heat inside the bus? If yes, where do you recommend splicing the heater into? I am planning to use the rear heater core from a vanagon, it'll fit perfectly up against the front of the bus and provide great heat for the dash and I can put a second unit under the rear seat for the passengers.
Also, I can't help but think that with short pipes and such a small muffler the exhaust is going to be pretty loud. There's an email forum for inline4 conversions that suggests running dual pipes about 27" before joining them in order to get the best low end torque from the engine. I kept all the exhaust components from the donor car, it was whisper quiet but had a cat and two mufflers and about 4' of pipe between the header and the tailpipe. Your setup looks like it will fit a lot better.
I've been documenting my own work so far, it's online here:
Last edited by westfakia; 02-24-2011 at 05:50 PM.
Thanks. Yes I too am in a cramped space. Working on it 2-3 hrs a day. Planning on running a heater. I will detail it when I get to that point. I guess we will find out just how loud it is. The factory down pipe runs 15" before joining the two pipes together. There must be a reason for that. If you are going to run the radiator up front, this is a cool way to do it.
Last edited by air skooled; 02-25-2011 at 02:03 AM.
Here's the mounts. Fresh out of the powder coat oven. Need to get shorter bolts for the mounts. They are too long because the original setup is to run a mount above and below. I don't think that will be necessary in this case. Remember when you build your new mounts, lift the motor up about 1/4"-3/8". That way you get some support from them when you let it back down. I found the link for the mounts. http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-713008-ns/
As always, some impressive stuff going on there.
To the guy who wants to use sintra, I'd suggest not using it like that. It's a cheap plastic that isn't intended to withstand prolonged outdoor use and will dry out and eventually become even more brittle and crack from temperature cycles, UV, etc. Even with paint on it, it'll look like crap in a short time. Go with metal or fiberglass.
DCI FOR LIFE
vansquad - poppin your top, bitch!
Thanks again. If your wonder why I powder coat everything, it is because I have a powder coat oven in my garage. I try to powder coat everything I build if possible. So much better than paint.
A couple more shots of the mounts.
Built a plate that bolts into the buses original bolt holes for the fuel pump/filter assy. Made it out of galvaized steel. I might still powder coat it. Also welded on the bolts since access to the back of the plate is limited. Still need to wire and plumb it. It looks pretty tight in there and it is, but there is clearance for everything that moves.
Going to look for some parts tomorrow. With a little luck it will be running by the weekend and out of the garage by mid week.
Of all the MKII's I've owned/worked on, I've never seen a cover. But that doesn't mean there isn't one. Picked up a bunch of little stuff today. The alternator pulley still eludes me though. I did figure out what is going on with it though. It is driven by the A/C pulley. What is needed is a non a/c alternator pulley. Not so easy to find.
"This motor originally had a power steering pump on it. Since that is gone the belt for the alt no longer lines up with any other pulleys. Guess I need to find some different pulley(s)."
"The alternator pulley still eludes me though. I did figure out what is going on with it though. It is driven by the A/C pulley. What is needed is a non a/c alternator pulley. Not so easy to find. "
Or ,maybe ,create or obtain an A/C &/or P/S idler pulley (#14ish) to fill in the gaps?:
Last edited by buggyman; 02-26-2011 at 11:59 PM. Reason: more info
"Is there a plastic cover that goes over the pump etc? I believe there is one on the 91 parts car that I bought."
"Of all the MKII's I've owned/worked on, I've never seen a cover. But that doesn't mean there isn't one."
IIRC Norm that'd be a 165-201-546,listed but not shown in the catalogue specificly only on PL & 9A 16V engined cars :
There are proper pulleys for that application. As it turns out, my donor car (1990 Golf Automatic) didn't have power steering. It was a pig to steer unless it was moving, and even then it was no picnic. Much worse than my baywindow, probably in large part to having the engine and transmission right over the front wheels, and a small steering wheel as well.
If that engine had had power steering, it would have wound up in my wife's 1988 vanagon instead. But she wasn't giving up PS on the vanagon, so it was put in our Bay instead.
Here are some pics of the pulley set you are looking for:
Sorry about for the rust and the low-quality phonecam pics.
Oh, there you are. It's about friggin time you said hi!!! I think the idler pulley would
be a nightmare. I did find a aftermarket pulley at $52+ship and handling. So the plate is
only on 16v motors? No wonder I've never seen one. I really don't think there is any room for one, at least not with my setup. Pretty tight as is. Thanks for the info Mr. Buggy.
Looks like I am missing the wire loom from the digifant to the fuse box. Back to the wreckers tomorrow.