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    Thread: The Bachelor Bunny

    1. 04-18-2012 11:44 AM #141
      Had a pretty good weekend gathering parts for the car.

      Saturday I took the trip up North to this massive junkyard:



      They have everything and the kitchen sink!



      After walking around for a bit I was getting worried but then came across a fairly complete ABA cabby

      My haul:



      And sorted at home:



      I spent the rest of the afternoon cleaning up a bunch of the parts and then installed the rear bumper to connect my battery ground with one of its bolts. I also cleaned up the wiper assembly and got that in the car. It's amazing how well this stuff can clean up with a wire brush, purple power, acetone, and elbow grease.

      Sunday I helped out with the Orchid Euro booth at Show and/or Go in NJ. During a lull I wondered around the other vendors and found a gentleman wearing a MK1 caddy tshirt selling some bits. He gave me a great deal on a chrome handle and an intake tube.

      *Seller, if you're reading this I messed up and need the other chrome handle you had!!!!

      The intake was pretty beat up, so I sprayed it down with paint remover and cleaned up the bare metal a bit. I think it looks 100x better now and I'm thinking I'll just give it a coat or two of clear and leave it.

      Test fit in the car and I'm thinking it might near a brace or support to keep it safely distanced from the cam gear/timing belt:



      Finally, I spent some time cleaning up the drivers door yesterday. These doors are going to need a ton of work..



      Question: I believe they are GTI doors. What are the 4 square holes for in the bottom left corner?

    2. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      04-18-2012 12:01 PM #142
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post
      Question: I believe they are GTI doors. What are the 4 square holes for in the bottom left corner?
      Little breather vent thingys that are on the door cards. Don't worry about 'em.
      | œ Orchid Euro Importation œ |

      Currently driving or working on too many cars...
      | '93 Fox 16v - PVW | '99 Greenland Polo Diesel | '89 Rallye Golf | '83 Golf GTi RHD | '75 Swallowtail |
      | '82 Caddy 1.9D | '85 VW LT Car Transporter | Mk2 Jetta Limo | '90 Jetta 8V | '96 VW LT35D | '03 SpintLT35 | '02 GTI 337 | '03 GTI 20v |
      | '09 Aprilia RS125 | '81 Kawasaki AR80 | '59 NSU Quickly | '64 Honda Cub C65 + '65 C105 | Trek Madone 7.9 | Trek Crockett 9 |

    3. 04-20-2012 08:20 AM #143
      The good news:
      1. I'm making progress on the chassis wiring and can somewhat read volkswagen wiring diagrams now. I also figured out why the hazard switch wasn't working.

      2. The side marker bulbs light up when I ask them to.

      The bad news:
      1. I'm missing a hazard and fuel pump relay, and the relay side of my fusebox doesn't match any of the fuseboxes in the bentley (although it's pretty close to the rabbit delux). Also, my seatbelt interlock relay makes the wrong noise when I shake it so I need to figure out how to jump it.

      2. The euro wiring diagram for the mono-motronic 1.8L is proving difficult to find.

    4. 04-22-2012 10:30 AM #144
      Made some good progress with the wiring yesterday. Started off with an early trip to the junkyard in search of gauge cluster pigtails for a cabby. With luck I was able to score a ton of wiring and the interior light door switches.

      Here's how we started off:



      And after a solid few hours of quality time with my friend, Bentley:



      I'm now very happy to have functional:
      Headlights
      Turn signals
      Hazards
      Tail lights
      Brake lights
      Reverse lights
      Blower motor
      Cig lighter
      Dome light


      My wife came out to say hi and was promptly amazed when the rabbit inflated the rear tire with its own power



      And the money shot after a long day and raw finger tips:



      Up next:




    5. 04-23-2012 09:13 AM #145
      Had an hour or so after the Flyers game yesterday so I:

      Swapped out the passenger brake caliper
      Replaced the flange mount thing on the transmission and got the trans mount bolted up
      Cleaned out the turn signals
      Drilled the bumper shocks to tuck the front
      Temporarily connected the fuel lines

      ..and almost replaced the fuel accumulator with a fuel filter.

      Upon further review of the Bentley, I now know what a fuel accumulator is and what it does, but still need to figure out some type of in-line fuel filtration.

    6. 05-03-2012 10:40 AM #146
      Bled 3 of 4 brake lines yesterday before my extra helper jumped in to lend her expertise:







      We think she has a crush on Jamie

      Would have been 4/4, but there seems to be a blockage or something in the drivers front caliper. It's getting fluid and will bleed from the brake hose, but nothing comes out of the bleeder valve. Pedal is medium stiff, but the caliper isn't holding the rotor hard enough yet. Hopefully picking up a replacement caliper this afternoon.

    7. Member Seamus68's Avatar
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      05-03-2012 11:35 AM #147
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post

      We think she has a crush on Jamie
      Man, who doesn't! Things are coming along nicely ben!

    8. 05-09-2012 08:55 PM #148


      one of those nights... I started off good by getting the new drivers brake caliper in and bled. Then I went to mock up the downpipe which has been concerning me ever since we put the motor in.

      No pics unfortunately, but the downpipe doesn't clear the steering rack. I guess I'll either need a longer header like the ABA swappers use or will just cut the downpipe and see if the local exhaust shop can work their magic.

      To further complicate this, I previously snapped one of the studs that holds the downpipe to the exhaust manifold. To fix that, it was recommended that I try welding a nut to the stud and backing the whole thing out. I got the welder all set up and psssshhhhhhh no more wire.

      So at this point I'm like "whatevs" and start pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds to clean them up and get better access to that stud. Got 7/8 of the nuts off and 5/6 of the bolts out. The middle ones are ****ing impossible to get to on this motor and my 12mm socket and 6mm hex both get stuck and can't reach.

    9. Member aeffertz's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 09:02 PM #149
      Lame sauce. I actually just had to remove some exhaust studs that broke off on mine. Welded a nut on both of them only to have the bolt keep breaking to the point there was no threads anymore. Had to take a bolt and weld it to the other bolt and finally got it out.

      Hate that crap.
      Last edited by aeffertz; 05-09-2012 at 09:28 PM.

    10. Senior Member IronTrap's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 09:15 PM #150
      cut the OE flex joint/connection off and just have the exhaust shop (or you) build a new DP with a mesh flex joint.. never worry about the horrible OE connection again.. that's how I've done it

    11. 05-09-2012 09:24 PM #151
      Quote Originally Posted by saddest6day66 View Post
      cut the OE flex joint/connection off and just have the exhaust shop (or you) build a new DP with a mesh flex joint.. never worry about the horrible OE connection again.. that's how I've done it
      Was actually just talking about this idea. If I cut it right after the manifold/downpipe connection could J&H just take it from there with a flex joint and piping? Jamie was suggesting I also include a normal exhaust flange in there somewhere to make removing the exhaust easier in the future.

    12. Senior Member IronTrap's Avatar
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      05-09-2012 09:29 PM #152
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post
      Was actually just talking about this idea. If I cut it right after the manifold/downpipe connection could J&H just take it from there with a flex joint and piping? Jamie was suggesting I also include a normal exhaust flange in there somewhere to make removing the exhaust easier in the future.
      Yes they can, we did my V5 that way just recently. You could add the flange if you want, but in reality how often/when would you see yourself removing the exhaust? Either way they can take care of it for you

    13. Member Seamus68's Avatar
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      05-10-2012 10:37 AM #153
      Quote Originally Posted by saddest6day66 View Post
      Yes they can, we did my V5 that way just recently. You could add the flange if you want, but in reality how often/when would you see yourself removing the exhaust? Either way they can take care of it for you

      Ben, if they can do the exhaust for matt's swallow tail with the V5, then yours shall be a walk in the park. They'll fix you up good.

    14. 05-17-2012 09:28 AM #154
      So things are kind of, sort of coming along here. Early Saturday morning I bid farewell to the cafe racer with the hopes of focusing more time (and more budget) to the rabbit. The buyer asked me to ride it back to his house though so I did get one last rip down I-76



      Then I positioned my assistant and in between some yardwork I was able to mount up the wheels and play with the coilovers a bit.





      The bi-turbos are ET6 all the way around so it makes the fitment kind of funky. The front pokes more than I'd like, but I'm hoping to work around that with moar low and some camber. In the rear I'm hoping to make or aquire some no-drop drop plates (aka axle spacers) to kick the wheels out another inch or so. I like this method mainly because my 4x98/wobble bolt setup would make regular spacers too complicated.



      Sunday night I had some time to play with the wiring. I finally have the euro wiring diagram for my motor (thank you rubjonny!!!!) so I set out to label as much as I could. I'm still a little nervous about cutting and splicing it, so I'm just trying to get everything as clear and easy as possible for when my helpers are free.





      Oh, and I got a nice little surprise Sunday night too! The previous owner of the car was driving by the house and recognized me and the car in the garage. He pulled in to say hi and see how things were going. It felt great to hear how much he liked what I had been doing and gave me even more motivation to get it finished.

      Funny thing is, I'm not sure how to take "I recognized the car" since this is the last time he saw it nearly a year and a half ago:





      Lastly, I FINALLYYYYYYYY got the drive shaft nut off the old driver's side shaft yesterday. With the new tires on the ground, I was able to get the car planted and chocked enough that I could throw all my limited strength into the breaker bar. With that taken care of, I got the new shaft installed and finished wiring the starter motor.

      Following the kind of, sort of theme; I'm now kind of, sort of proud to say that the car at least attempts to run when I turn the key!

    15. Member
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      05-17-2012 10:07 AM #155
      looking exquisite chrome wheels and blue are perfect. and lolz at your stalker

    16. Member Cushy's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 03:55 PM #156
      Meat on them wheels. :youlikethis:

      -Pat
      Quote Originally Posted by SVT2888 View Post
      The car scene, much like the music scene, has a lot of genre's and even genre's within genre's. But, like those who call themselves real music fans, if you're a real automotive enthusiast you can find something in every genre that you like.
      Quote Originally Posted by vento86 View Post
      Rip the ebrake. Neutral. Get bitches
      Function is the form.

    17. Member GTrabbIt's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 06:20 PM #157
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post
      Funny thing is, I'm not sure how to take "I recognized the car" since this is the last time he saw it nearly a year and a half ago:
      No doors, hatch, bumpers or hood Or, maybe he's following it on here
      Our mk6

      oldskoolvw.com

      DIY Garage needs funding... CLICK HERE!!

    18. 05-18-2012 08:34 AM #158
      Quote Originally Posted by GTrabbIt View Post
      No doors, hatch, bumpers or hood Or, maybe he's following it on here
      I don't think he actively vortexes anymore. The guy's been in the VW scene since before I was wiping my own ass, but now has a family and kids and everything which is how I ended up with the car. I actually see him every now and then and we chat about the car. We've talked about my plans with the baby blue and single point injection motor countless times and he knew where I lived before so it's not a stalker thing by any means. He just cracked me up with the "recognized the car" line.

    19. 06-06-2012 08:41 AM #159
      Got stuck a bit yesterday..

      Plan for the afternoon was to get a pre-pump fuel filter in, weld the broken bumper bracket back together, and get a nut welded onto the broken exhaust manifold stud. Sorry no pics..

      For the pre-pump filter, I want to run something small to keep crud out of the pump. I've heard of this done before and referenced the Critter Caddy for more info.

      Here's the filter Matt was using:



      This one is only slightly smaller than the filter I found, but I'm convinced the hose must be different in a truck and mine was literally only maybe 5 inches with a 90 bend in the middle. The filter I have is 4 inches itself...

      The only smaller filters I've ever seen have been for motorcycle or lawn mower fuel lines which are much thinner than 1/2 inch..

      Is there such thing as a 90 degree bent filter?

      Anyway, in a bit of frustration I cut out a section of the fuel line post-pump to make use of my big filter only to find that the diameter shrinks post pump and now the filter outlets are too fat.

      Back to the store today to look for a smaller filter to use pre-pump and a thinner filter to use post-pump.

      Next up was welding. I got the bumper bracket all set up and made my typical ugly welds. Decent penetration but I most have bumped it or something because the threaded receiver piece was just a hair out of alignment.

      I tried to clean it up but the bolt still wants to crossthread.

      If the first 2 omens weren't enough to call it quits, I lifted the car up and crawled underneath to try and have a go at welding a nut onto my broken exhaust manifold stud. I couldn't see for **** and made such a mess that the nut is no longer hexagonal.. The good news is that it's stuck on there pretty good so maybe I got just enough penetration to bond the two. The bad news is it's gonna be a pain in the ass trying to unscrew it now.

      Satisfied with three total fails, I cleaned up a bit and went inside to order Chinese food. The End.

    20. Member RedWabbitVR's Avatar
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      06-06-2012 06:26 PM #160
      The car is looking good, every now and again I see the garage door up, I like the blue. of course I pass you almost every morning on your way to work.


      you know a few of the things you found in the junkyard I had laying around, doing nothing but collecting dust.
      VRSociety #301

    21. 06-07-2012 11:59 AM #161
      Quote Originally Posted by RedWabbitVR View Post
      The car is looking good, every now and again I see the garage door up, I like the blue. of course I pass you almost every morning on your way to work.


      you know a few of the things you found in the junkyard I had laying around, doing nothing but collecting dust.
      I thought you were moving back to the south?


      Yesterday: Had a mildly more successful couple of hours with the car. I crawled underneath and bolted the intake and exhaust manifolds back up. While under there, I tried loosening the nut I had so poorly welded on to a broken manifold stud. It came off, but unfortunately didn't bring the broken stud with it. I'm now having second thoughts about the nut welding and might just try to drill it out.

      I was also able to finally get a clutch cable bracket set up that actually works. My pedal cluster is from an auto so it does not have the factory bracket that pokes through the firewall. Using a combination of grommets and metal, I now have a brace that's secure enough to hold the cable housing in place when I press the pedal down.

      Motivated by that, I crawled back under the car to properly align the shifter rod. I think I've got it right. Are the gears typically close together when shifting left to right?


      AKA the position of the shift knob in first gear compared to third gear (and second to fourth) is very close together.



      Finally, I've been working on figuring out the switched/constant/ground wiring for this motor. I hoping to mock it up this weekend and, fingers crossed, maybe even turn the key

    22. Member RedWabbitVR's Avatar
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      06-08-2012 12:03 PM #162
      Haha.... Never. I'm will never move back down south I'm in pa for life. I moved to lansdale, not too far away. One of these weekends I'll have to stop in and say hey. If you need help with something let me know I do have a machine shop here at work and a tig welder.


      Sent from under my car.
      VRSociety #301

    23. 06-11-2012 11:37 AM #163
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post
      Finally, I've been working on figuring out the switched/constant/ground wiring for this motor. I hoping to mock it up this weekend and, fingers crossed, maybe even turn the key
      With a pretty clear goal for the weekend, I devoted all of Sunday to the rabbit. First things first though, I played a short round of golf Saturday morning and snapped a picture of my stretched/stanced golf cart:



      (the result of a flat tire + ebrake slides)

      Ok, so like I said earlier, the goal this weekend was internal combustion. I woke up nice an early Sunday morning and wheeled her out to get some sun:



      I had spent some time Saturday night comparing notes from the ABA thread to my euro wiring schematic to my North American Bentley and had a basic idea of what needed switched or constant power. I pieced together a very crude (and later learned very crappy) series of temporary wiring jumpers.



      With this setup, I was getting the motor to fire off of starter fluid and consequently determined I wasn't getting power to the injector. After failing to diagnose that issue, I also started losing power to the spark plugs. I called for reinforcements and tried to keep busy while they were on their way over.

      The early westy dashes use a different mounting bracket than a cabby dash so I put my fabricator hat on and got to making a pair of adapters. All I needed was a piece of metal to extend and rotate the original bracket. I've seen all you guys cut out a piece of cardboard to use in the mock up, and I'm glad I copied.



      After some cutting, filing, drilling, and hammering I had two awesome little adapters.



      I bolted them in and the dash fit perfectly! While I had the dash out, I also re-routed the speedo cable to fit the cabby gauge cluster.

      Once help arrived, we tested for spark again and came up empty handed. The cap and rotor were pulled, and we found that the rotor had fell apart inside. Next came the scavenger hunt for a rotor and cap to fit a motor that's only available in the Euroland. Many different combinations from all the local auto parts stores were tried, but eventually we went the route of just about everything on this car and settled it with an angle grinder.



      The rotor from a MK2 Jetta 1.8L was just a hair too tall, but luckily a properly applied cutting disk fixed the problem. We now had spark. With that solved, and time running out, we feverishly pulled the wiring jumpers out, traced the missing injector switched 12v, and re-did the temporary switched and constant 12v.



      Victory! (the afro behind the wheel is not me )


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      06-11-2012 03:56 PM #164
      Congrats!

    25. 06-18-2012 08:14 PM #165
      Now that the motor runs I'm more determined that ever to keep this moving along. The latest efforts have all revolved around getting the car drivable. With that in mind, we spent a little time last week cleaning up the wiring.



      Need to find a spot for this: (any suggestions? please include how you route the wire harness)



      So here's where I need a bit of help. I'm pretty sure I have a standard non-ac rabbit airbox. It came with the car and bolts right in. I bought a heater core second hand though and I'm concerned about the heater hose inlets. Aren't they supposed to protrude out of the firewall and into the engine bay? If the hoses reach, is it safe to have the junction inside the cabin?



      Second spot of needed help: I'm having clutch dis-engagement issues. I put the car up on jackstands today to run a few tests. First I removed the green cap:



      Is it supposed to be that dirty?



      This trans is from an '84 GTI that had been sitting for maybe 10 or so years. The clutch/flywheel is from the new motor and was driven about a year ago.

      Anyway, here are the tests I did:
      1. Lift release arm until resistance - stopped at 9:00 just as Broke describes
      2. Set up clutch cable and press clutch pedal in - release arm rises to 10:00 just as Broke describes
      3. After removing the green cap, clutch pedal pressed in - activation finger pushes TO bearing in about 5mm

      With the car running:
      1. in neutral press on brake pedal - wheels stop spinning, motor runs fine
      2. in first press brake pedal - wheels slow and rpm drops
      3. in first press clutch and brake pedal - wheels slow and rpm drops

      So basically I can't get the clutch to disengage and the finger is actively pressing the TO bearing in. Any idea what could cause that? A friend suggested that a thicker clutch cable spacer might do the trick.

      Like this:



    26. 06-25-2012 11:12 AM #166
      Weekend update:

      I started working on the doors in an effort to get them smoothed out and painted. I have the drivers door pretty much finished for now. The paint I sprayed didn't come out that great, but I'm thinking the whole car will probably need a respray anyway to get it really nice.



      While that was drying I dove further into the clutch problem. I wanted to check the release finger and release bearing so I started unbolting the 5th gear housing. Naturally, I got to the last bolt to find that it was blocked by the frame.

      Time to drop the trans! I braced the motor with jack stands and successfully removed the transmission without:

      a. benchpressing it
      b. destroying the paint in the bay



      Since the 5th housing was open though, I did end up spilling a bunch of trans oil on the floor..

      The pushrod and bearing worked perfectly, so I moved on to the clutch. After popping the flywheel off, my fear was confirmed and the clutch disk was seized on to the pressure plate. It took some convincing, but I finally got it out only to have the disk hit me right in the face.





      So a new clutch kit is in order, but the flywheel also looks pretty beat up. Anyone ever have these resurfaced? Or is it worth the extra $60 to order a new flywheel as well? I'm really starting to get beat up by this car nickel and diming me to death..

    27. 06-25-2012 11:21 AM #167
      Its not worth surfacing the flywheel . The step has to be machined the same amount as the friction surface, when done and said you may as well have bought a new one.

    28. Member RedWabbitVR's Avatar
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      06-25-2012 07:40 PM #168
      I meant to say something when I was there, the heater core needs to stick through the firewall. There a plate that goes around the pipes that seal it off. And if you stuck the hoses through the firewall sooner or later the firewall would cut the lines and you would have a pretty bad leak.


      Sent from under my car.
      VRSociety #301

    29. 06-26-2012 08:34 AM #169
      Quote Originally Posted by RedWabbitVR View Post
      I meant to say something when I was there, the heater core needs to stick through the firewall. There a plate that goes around the pipes that seal it off. And if you stuck the hoses through the firewall sooner or later the firewall would cut the lines and you would have a pretty bad leak.
      Hmm when you say plate do you mean the rubber grommet? As is, I would pass the hoses through the grommet, secure grommet in firewall, then have the clamps on the cabin side of the firewall. Bentley doesn't say much about it, but the diagram below doesn't seem to have anything I'm missing:




      I had a few hours last night so I started to put the driver's door back together. My little roll of 3M double sided adhesive didn't even last one door! That **** was like $4!



      I also wrestled the window seals back in. I'm unfortunately piecing the seals together from an assorted bucket so I'm not really sure what seal goes where and how to attach it properly. Thus I'm not totally excited about the fitment and the spot of paint I knicked off..



      Here's a mock up of the finished door. The doorcards are a few shades lighter than the rest of the interior, but they'll work for now. I'm also in need of the swallowtail type handle if anyone local has two extras laying around.



      Clutch parts were delivered by Orchid Euro this morning around 2:19am for the first stop during their next road trip across the country. Rock and roll, bitches.


    30. Member RedWabbitVR's Avatar
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      06-26-2012 12:26 PM #170
      The pipes stick through piece 35 into the engine bay. Then you secure the hoses onto the pipes. It was like this on both my rabbits I don't know why your pipes aren't sticking through all the way, is the box all way in?


      Sent from under my car.
      VRSociety #301

    31. 07-13-2012 09:23 AM #171
      Let's get caught up. When we last left off, I had pulled the trans in anticipation of replacing all the clutch parts and started getting the driver's door back together.



      With the PP off I could see how dirty it had gotten in and around the bell housing area. I think this might have lead to the clutch seizing. Before installing all the new stuff I cleaned this area off and looked into sourcing the protective plates on the trans to try and keep it clean.



      Here's everything laid out. You can see the marks left on the old PP. I had to pry the clutch disk off with a screw driver. After getting everything lined up and back on the motor I tried several times to bench press the trans back in. I guess that's a sign that I need to get back to the gym as I didn't have the strength to lift the trans and line it up into place.

      *Important: When this happens, under no circumstance should you ask your wife for help. It will not end well.

      After cursing and yelling and arguing I called it a night. I did get the door back on though.



      Later that week I had some proper help in the form of Matt Rad. It was great to hang out all afternoon, drink beers, jam out to classic rock, and get a ton of work done.



      First things first:



      I think Matt might have broken the record for mounting an 020 trans. The elapsed time from me passing him the trans to us threading the bolts in was seriously under 2 seconds.



      We messed around with a ton of other small jobs then Mrs. Obscene rewarded us with pizza. Good day.



      I spent a few more hours later that night stripping the passenger door then put everything away for a two week break while Mrs. Obscene and I toured China.





      I'm back in the country now and exhausted but still have a ton of work to do on the car. MK1 Madness is looking like a no-go for the car, but I'm still determined to get the car driving asap to enjoy the rest of the summer.

    32. 07-17-2012 07:55 AM #172
      two steps forward, one step back..

      More work being done lately, but I think I might have a problem somewhere. On Friday I replaced the passenger axle and worked on the wire routing a bit. I then filled up the radiator with coolant and started the motor to bleed the system.

      When I started it there was a whining noise that went away and then came back. I shut the car off and checked around the motor. Nothing obvious so I started it again to try and pin point the noise. I'm pretty sure it was coming from the starter as the noise sounded like the starter was still spinning. If you've ever tried to start your car when it's already running, that's the noise.

      Anyway, I replaced the starter yesterday. Went to crank and nothing. Checked the battery and it was low at around 10-11v. Let it charge last night and tried it again this morning. The starter tried turning over but it felt like it was being blocked. I'm really hoping I didn't **** up the flywheel alignment. I tried a second time and popped the inline fuse I have running to the starter.

      Steps forward? Uh, I prepped the passenger door some more and found a spot for the ECU...

    33. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 5th, 2001
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      Royal Oak, MI
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      86 Jetta Coupe, 07 Rabbit
      07-18-2012 10:32 AM #173
      Great project. Glad I found this again. Subscribed for updates.

      On a side note, this motor was also available in canada in the early MKIII's. I have one sitting in the garage. Just need to find the right project car for it.

    34. 07-18-2012 12:06 PM #174
      Quote Originally Posted by detvw View Post
      Great project. Glad I found this again. Subscribed for updates.

      On a side note, this motor was also available in canada in the early MKIII's. I have one sitting in the garage. Just need to find the right project car for it.
      Thanks. Yup, I think it was the Golf CL in Canada that had it. I don't know if they used the same engine code though. I have the wiring schematic for this motor if you ever need it.

    35. Member joeyvig111's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 13th, 2009
      Location
      The Burgh
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      (92 GTI, 91 GLI, 97 TREK - gonzo), 69 Bus, 83 GTI
      07-18-2012 12:17 PM #175
      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post

      My wife came out to say hi and was promptly amazed when the rabbit inflated the rear tire with its own power



      Quote Originally Posted by benjaminobscene View Post

      And the money shot after a long day and raw finger tips:







      you young'ns wont get this one...
      Last edited by joeyvig111; 07-18-2012 at 12:30 PM.

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