you should grab the motor before the seats. also besides mk4 cloth wolfsburg seats make sure theyre heated it adds a nice touch to them! lol
Mk4 rear caliper conversion and complete.. and finally have an brake. Unbelievable the difference with good bearings and brakes that aren't constantly partially engaged... Idk how my wheel didn't fall off a while ago.
But, I have a question about the ebrake cables. I ordered the cofle cables from europarts direct which I was told sat perfectly and were better quality than the GAP cables. But they seem to be too long. The old cables had a gold metal tube over a quarter of it, where the cable came into the car and mounted to the ebrake lever assembly and seemed to hold it in place. The new ones did not have this. I tried to take it off the old one and move it to the new one but seems as though they are part of the old cable and no sign that i would be able to remove them. Is this right? Am I missing a part?
Also did the water pump on my truck... Had a very productive weekend for the first time in a while. The car also has a strange intermittent noise coming from my front end. I just did tie rods so i know it isn't that but I'm not sure if its an axle going bad as I've never had that issue before, or if i have a bad bushing somewhere. I was gonna put the front up after i finished the brakes but daylight savings time killed me.
Thanky you for your build thread and sharing such a big part of you life with us. I used to have a MK3 2.0 and sadly sold it (under peer pressure) to but my toyota project car on the road. im itching to get another 2.0 but very curious about the VR6. I've heard lots of horror stories concerning the vr over the years, but this thread is making me really consider getting a VR.
I also came from an mk3 2.0. I loved the thing just hated the lack of peppiness and options. I have to say i love having the options of the glx and the note of my exhaust is what really has me in love with the vr over the 2.0. One thing i miss is being able to beat the piss out of the 2.0 and it still get 32 mpg. You can still get 30mpg in a vr depending on your trip and your driving style. You just have to be a lot more aware of it in a vr or you will eat gas... But as long as your aware you'll easily still get 30 mpg on the highway and around 25 city.
As far as Vr's and horror stories, I also heard all of the same when i was still in my 2.0. It comes down to this. If it is properly maintained, prett much anything is going to be reliable. So far, knock on wood, my engine has been the most reliable thing and hasn't given me any troubles. Its got 190,xxx miles on it and runs awesome. I just recently started getting a little noisy chains and will be doing chains, guides, mk4 head gasket, cams, lifters and valve springs, as well as lightened flywheel and the clutch while I'm in there.
After having a 2.0 for 5 years nd a vr for 1 I can confidently say that I don't see myself ever going back to a 2.0
Brakes are finally done, ebrakes functioning properly, did some exploring in my front end and can't seem to find where the noise is coming from. I've wanted to go r32/tt bushings for a while now so once i find whats making noise and get into it I'm doing all the bushings and motor/trans mounts.
Went to winter mode today: (sorry for the sh!tty black berry pic
Last edited by L. Fopps; 08-03-2012 at 11:22 AM.
glad things are still goin well! side skirts lookin good! i still have to install my abt reps...ha...was gonna deal with some of the rust beforehand but might just get new rockers for cheap next spring. anyhow...i referenced Dan's page for parking brake replacement...i bought the cables from GAP and i think the metal guide tubes from VW dealership...i greased it all up a bit to help prevent it from rusting with our awesome salty winters (i'd rather they just sanded the roads...the salt is terrible for pretty much everything). my old ones were super loose and super rusty. i had one of them dragging in the rear and messed up my brake and my bearing so i rebuilt it all last year. your front brakes are lookin pretty...who powdercoated and rebuilt em? i am getting rebuilt and powdercoated black fronts shortly.
i have ok shape grey/black GLX/Wolfsburg rear cloth 60/40 folding seats with headrests and folding armrest if ya want for dirt cheap ($30?)...think you said you were looking for seats...?
I reused my old tubes as well. My old cables were rusted solid that i couldn't even pull the e-brake lever using all of my strength and literally snapped the old cable in pieces with my hands. I didn't do the front brakes yet, as my buddy did them freshly before he handed the car over to me. When those are in need Ill be cleaning them up as well. As far as the rear's they are mk4 calipers that I purchased new. Hit them with brake parts cleaner to get the oily coating off, primered with rustoleum primer and sprayed with Caliper Red paint that you can find in any of the local autoparts stores. If you are going to paint this way you just have to be extremely anal in your tape job as to not get paint on the bleeders, piston, seals, rubber, slidepins. I also didnt spray the ebrake bracket either as you cannot see it and theres no sense chancing caking it with paint and it not work properly.
As far as the seats, do you have pictures, Or the front seats to go with them?
Last edited by L. Fopps; 11-21-2011 at 12:15 PM.
yikes that sounded seriously rusted...yeah i wouldnt be surprised if parking brakes have to be done every few yrs with these salty winters ugh. doesnt help i have no garage either.
here are the seats...they aren't perfect but they are in good shape and cheap. i don't have fronts sorry...i put recaros up front in mine. these are my all time fav mkiii rear seats though...they have removeable headrests, a fold down armrest, 60/40 split folding, and the best cloth design of any mkiii.
i'll keep my eyes open for some matching fronts...i'll be trashing my rears in a couple weeks because i dont really have the space to store them so keep me posted. i like the mkiv seats a lot as well...i looked into doing mkiv special edition (337 or even the plain euro only etc) recaros but found it much easier to just put some aftermarket style recaros up front. i have to limit the amount of work/projects on this baby...it was getting out of hand haha.
Question for everyone.
My brakes are fixed and stopping awesome. The only question I have is what would cause the first time on start up that the pedal feels spongey and anytime braking after that its perfect?
Could this mean the master cylinder needs to be bled? I bled all four corners way over kill then I needed to just to be sure they were good. However in the time I was waiting for the new caliper I lost almost all of my fluid.
ahhh i've got a 2.0...with drum rears no less! forgot you vr6ers have hydraulic clutches! i'm stuck with cables for everything. glad you got it figured out!
hey question bout your steering wheel-- when you installed your mk3.5 cabrio wheel did you have to get longer hex/torx bolts for it to fit? and you have to put the clock spring from the mkiii wheel on it? i didn't see any DIY on here and before i take mine off to swap just wanna make my life a little easier and less surprises. thx...PM if ya want but thought it might still apply to your thread or others might be curious.
Are you talking about the hex/torque bolts that hold the stock airbag on? If so you don't need any at all. On the 3.5 wheel the airbag clips in with spring clips that are on the inside of the wheel.
My old clockspring was shot, so I picked it up attached to the wheel. Correct me if I am wrong But I am pretty sure that the mk3/3.5 clocksprings are identical so you should be able to use either/or
Ok awesome....i'm not exactly sure as someone else posted that on a diff thread...i'm gonna get new leather on the wheel and then its goin on. Thx
Well, Ive had this thud noise in my front end for a while now that I haven't been able to track the source of the noise. Checked the bushings, strut mounts, motor mounts and everything seemed good. Thought it was the axle but no clicking or real binding.
Today it was freezing out colder than it has been when i first got in the car yet and sure enough there was the click click click, and binding like crazy. Felt like my breaks were deployed. So thats next up on the agenda.
OEM or Raxles?
in my experience the only noise vw axles make is clicking -- the ball bearing having insufficeint grease bind against the other parts of the joint.
My car has a sort of 'thump' noise which I learned is because I forgot to do a certain precedure when I re-installed the steering rack. I'm not sure if you've touched the rack at all but I thought I'd throw that out there incase you did.
By the way, what thread pitch is the shifter rod? I've got a tap and die set, though I'm not sure it goes big enough.
Originally Posted by David Rock
I haven't touched the rack at all. Mines making a thump unless its freezing cold out and then I get the clicking and binding.
Im not sure the thread pitch yet. My linkage is currently f@cked up right now at the plastic arm where the cables mount. Im going to replace that plastic piece before I cut down the shifter. you should be able to tell with your tap and die but if i get to it before you do Ill let you know. Id guess that if you search theres gotta be a thread on here somewhere with the info
Check your sway bar links, sway bar bushings, ball joints, and rack bushings. When exactly is it thumping? When turning, bumpy roads, only big bumps, all the time, etc.
A friend of mine had a random thump every once in a while. Couldn't figure out what is was until he got a flat and noticed that his wheel had a hole on the inside of the rim. Turned out that the brake caliper was missing the bottom bolt and it was flipping up and smacking the inside of the rim. So double check your caliper bolts on all four.
1989 Plymouth Horizon
1997 VW Golf GTI VR6 (OBD1 swapped)
1988 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (parting out)
1990 VW Cabriolet Triple White
1981 Toyota Pickup 4x4 & 1998 Ducati 900SS
i haven't been keeping up sorry...been trying to diagnose an injector issue on my aba..argh.
if you guys want to cut down the shifter it's suuuper easy. i used a small pipe cutter...round and round and you get a much cleaner cut....then i just filed it a little smoother even still.....i cut about 1.5+ inches off...instead of putting new threads on it i simply used a newer shifter knob from a mkv-mkvi...they attach or lock onto the shifter rod by use of a hose clamp or ziptire or your choice underneath the knob...and i shaved and blacked out the 6th gear as i have a 5spd..i have a retro golfball gti shifter that will eventually go in as well.
post up pics after you mod your shifters! i like it so much better now!
here's the wolfsburg style shifter now--
you can just get a smaller sized one so it's actually pretty cheap!
make sure its a METAL pipe cutter...guess they have lighter styles for pvc tubing etc...you need something a little more heavy duty...and maybe grab a spare cutting wheel if the pkg doesnt come with 1 extra (sometimes they have one extra in the bottom end on the tightening knob).
something like this style...
awesome. you picked up those underbody plugs yet and tested em out?? i haven't had time...still dealing with an injector issue on the aba. they look kinda flimsy...i can see why they didn't last...i have a few to replace it seems
So I got my driver's side axle sent out to Raxles.
Marty received it today and is getting it back out to me today.
Im very pleased. I just cannot wait to get it back and be driving my car again. My trucks a gas whore.
Well got a bunch of stuff waiting to go in.
Drivers side Raxle
Plastic part where the shift cables mount to the trans. finally my shifts will be normal
42DD o2 sensor spacer
3.5 cabby ebrake lever for the chrome button to match the 3.5 wheel and knob
Also acquired a sh!tload of 3.5 and mk4 knobs to get the best boot knob and gear selector combo... will probably have a few up for sale shortly
Last edited by L. Fopps; 12-28-2011 at 10:43 AM.