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    Thread: New Motor, Rebuilt, No oil Pressure. Help

    1. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 01:10 AM #1
      okay, so i may just be paranoid but I was trying to prime my oil system after my rebuild. So disconnected the ignition coils, the injectors and took out the fuel pump fuse.

      Now it cranks over nice but about 15 cranks in i get the Oil pressure light... Take the oil feed line off of the turbo, bone dry. Any ideas?

      Also new oil pump and down tube deal.

      Car in question





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    2. Forum Sponsor INA's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 11:20 AM #2
      Kind of messy/sloppy but take the oil filter off and have someone crank the engine over. If oil is coming through the oil filter housing then remove the oil filter housing (held in by (4) M7 bolts - will need 10mm socket) and change the check valve. (oil feed for turbocharger comes from filtered side of oil filter).
      If oil does NOT come through then pull the oil pan and see if the oil pump gear on the crankshaft is just spinning. I have yet to see a failed 1.8T oil pump but there is a first time for everything.

      Of course check and see if an the oil pump pick up tube is not clogged.

      Let us know
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    3. Member Blackfin's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 11:55 AM #3
      Did you "prime" the pump before installation?

      Gerotor pumps can be tricky to get going if they are "dry". It's common to pack them with petroleum jelly to act as a priming agent.

      Can you back-feed oil through the oil filter outlet to try to get some into the pump itself?

    4. Member Dub-Nub's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 11:58 AM #4
      Not much can be wrong here. When i did my rod install i didnt pre-lube the pump and everything worked out. I checked to make sure oil was coming out of the oil feed line first, did the pre-crank steps and it fired right up. You may have forgotten to tighten the oil pump gear or something. Its all mechanical.

    5. Forum Sponsor INA's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 12:58 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Blackfin View Post
      Did you "prime" the pump before installation?
      Not necessary on a 1.8T.
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    6. Member Blackfin's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 01:35 PM #6
      Quote Originally Posted by INA View Post
      Not necessary on a 1.8T.
      :shrug: It's a gerotor pump and if they are dry, they may not properly self-prime.

      This guy:

      http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=232743

      mentions priming the pump before installation.

      Let's put it this way: Priming a gerotor pump before installation is not a [u]bad[/i] idea, even if the majority self-prime just fine. It certainly can't hurt anything at any rate...

    7. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 02:50 PM #7
      Well I know for a fact that the gear is on there and tightened.

      The pump was no primed, i was thinking if i hiccuped the oil filter it might be a good idea but wasn't sure.

      I had taken the oil filter housing off to be cleaned as well as the oil cooler is brand new. so everything is BONE dry.
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    8. Member veedub-less's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 02:52 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Blackfin View Post
      :shrug: It's a gerotor pump and if they are dry, they may not properly self-prime.

      This guy:

      http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=232743

      mentions priming the pump before installation.

      Let's put it this way: Priming a gerotor pump before installation is not a [u]bad[/i] idea, even if the majority self-prime just fine. It certainly can't hurt anything at any rate...
      yes but the pump is in the oil pan. the path for the oil to travel to get to the pump is so minimal and so quick that is shouldn't have any issue picking up the oil.

    9. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-03-2011 03:00 PM #9
      may be a bit of a dumb question, but I bought an oil pressure gauge for this, should i be getting a reading during crank? if so about where should it be.

      On idle what should it be at? Sai/everything deleted.

      While moving what should my oil pressure be. I'll attempt to search these now but since I've got some guru's in here, figured some of you might know off the top of your head.
      "Hey you get off my cloud, See me get raw with my southpaw style" 3o1 KIDS Gonzo Tuning and EVAC
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      03-03-2011 03:20 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by Blackfin View Post
      :shrug: It's a gerotor pump and if they are dry, they may not properly self-prime.

      This guy:

      http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=232743

      mentions priming the pump before installation.

      Let's put it this way: Priming a gerotor pump before installation is not a [u]bad[/i] idea, even if the majority self-prime just fine. It certainly can't hurt anything at any rate...
      I am saying there is no need for it. Unlike other makes /manufactuers...the 06A/06B oil pump is actually submerged a fair portion (assuming you have left your engine sitting for a while) into the oil in the oil pan. The ratio of gear pressure : engine cranking is almost minimal so a few cranks and pressure would have allready been limited @ the pump.
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      03-03-2011 05:16 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by LouieTHEkid View Post
      may be a bit of a dumb question, but I bought an oil pressure gauge for this, should i be getting a reading during crank? if so about where should it be.

      On idle what should it be at? Sai/everything deleted.

      While moving what should my oil pressure be. I'll attempt to search these now but since I've got some guru's in here, figured some of you might know off the top of your head.
      you're not going to get a reading until it starts.

      i would check the gear.

    12. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-05-2011 01:59 PM #12
      Ended up burping the oil filter and everythings fine thanks guys!
      "Hey you get off my cloud, See me get raw with my southpaw style" 3o1 KIDS Gonzo Tuning and EVAC
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    13. Member lrgskate's Avatar
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      03-06-2011 11:28 PM #13
      Quote Originally Posted by INA View Post
      Kind of messy/sloppy but take the oil filter off and have someone crank the engine over. If oil is coming through the oil filter housing then remove the oil filter housing (held in by (4) M7 bolts - will need 10mm socket) and change the check valve. (oil feed for turbocharger comes from filtered side of oil filter).
      If oil does NOT come through then pull the oil pan and see if the oil pump gear on the crankshaft is just spinning. I have yet to see a failed 1.8T oil pump but there is a first time for everything.

      Of course check and see if an the oil pump pick up tube is not clogged.

      Let us know

    14. Member Pg-Getta1.8's Avatar
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      03-06-2011 11:41 PM #14
      Quote Originally Posted by INA View Post
      I have yet to see a failed 1.8T oil pump but there is a first time for everything.
      Listen to this then.... I broke my oil pan, and went to change it. when i pulled the pan off i found the oil pump chain tensionor and 2 teeth to the oil pump drive gear in the pan. Found the caused to be a seized oil pump 110k
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      03-07-2011 11:25 PM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by LouieTHEkid View Post




      pretty big fail in this picture broski.... lower left hand side of the picture... under the frame rail.... yea... you know it
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
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    16. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 12:09 AM #16
      I've had my car jacked up on the frame rail many times over the past 7 months. Care to explain why this is a fail? Seeing as it has not failed once





      and if you are refering to the widow maker, its not a vw brand one. so it actually can support a big more weight
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      03-08-2011 12:30 AM #17
      Widow-Maker in da Hizzouse!!!!!!

    18. Member Pg-Getta1.8's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 12:42 AM #18
      Quote Originally Posted by Powdered Toast Man View Post
      Widow-Maker in da Hizzouse!!!!!!
      :
      2003 Jetta 20v big turbo, FFE mini me turbo kit w/ Precision 5557 Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo, tile WG, UNI 630 file with 630 injectors, walbro inline fuel pump, Precision 650 front mount w/ 2.5in alum. Piping, Wisco pistons (9:1), AEB head, IE rods, o2m Trans, South Bend stg 3 endurance clutch kit, deleted AC, SAI, PS... Semi tucked wiring harness. More to come

    19. Member Dub-Nub's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 12:45 AM #19
      Quote Originally Posted by LouieTHEkid View Post
      I've had my car jacked up on the frame rail many times over the past 7 months. Care to explain why this is a fail? Seeing as it has not failed once





      and if you are refering to the widow maker, its not a vw brand one. so it actually can support a big more weight
      the jack you used for the frame rail is very dangerous and is called the widow maker because it kills people.

    20. Member waabaah's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 01:58 AM #20
      widow maker, nice! good thing he has more support then that.

      car wont get oil pressure until it starts. you mention you only crank it 15 times. did the engine ever start once you put your fuses back in?

      get the car running for a short period and see if that helps. really not much can go wrong for no oil after a build like that.

    21. Member ALLGORIMSHOW's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 03:31 AM #21
      Quote Originally Posted by Dub-Nub View Post
      the jack you used for the frame rail is very dangerous and is called the widow maker because it kills people.
      No, ignorance and lack of common sense is what kills people, not the jack... Scissor jacks work great for lowered cars, it lifts them up enough to get a larger jack under. They also work great when you get a flat tire and I'm guess thats why VW puts them in the trunk/hatch along with a reinforced lift point on the frame rail. I'm not picking on your post, just sayin.
      FUITCK

      Quote Originally Posted by DAN16VG60 View Post
      Give. Me youre phone number. Him from. Montréal. Daniel. Hi havé question

    22. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 02:56 PM #22
      Well if you look closely people who contributed nothing, it's actually not even under the car in this picture. Look closer. its held up by the SUV jack under the front of the car.

      I've done this much work, and as stated, its not the vw jack



      Scissor jack, yes. Piece of ****? Not so much.


      Car runs fine now. Oil pressure is great. Burped the oil filter and since then only had some minor problems to sort out. Appears as though my crank seal is leaking
      Last edited by LouieTHEkid; 03-08-2011 at 02:58 PM.
      "Hey you get off my cloud, See me get raw with my southpaw style" 3o1 KIDS Gonzo Tuning and EVAC
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    23. Member Pg-Getta1.8's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 04:53 PM #23
      Quote Originally Posted by ALLGORIMSHOW View Post
      No, ignorance and lack of common sense is what kills people, not the jack... Scissor jacks work great for lowered cars, it lifts them up enough to get a larger jack under. They also work great when you get a flat tire and I'm guess thats why VW puts them in the trunk/hatch along with a reinforced lift point on the frame rail. I'm not picking on your post, just sayin.
      i used the widow maker onece on my slammed jetta, the car broke it before i could get it off the ground. Went to sears and got a 2ton floor jack in a travel case for 50$ (on sale). I keep that in my trunk now. But if u ever jacked up a car, and had the front and rear tire off, this is becasue the unibody. The weight is to much for that little pos
      2003 Jetta 20v big turbo, FFE mini me turbo kit w/ Precision 5557 Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo, tile WG, UNI 630 file with 630 injectors, walbro inline fuel pump, Precision 650 front mount w/ 2.5in alum. Piping, Wisco pistons (9:1), AEB head, IE rods, o2m Trans, South Bend stg 3 endurance clutch kit, deleted AC, SAI, PS... Semi tucked wiring harness. More to come

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      03-08-2011 04:54 PM #24
      Quote Originally Posted by LouieTHEkid View Post


      Car runs fine now. Oil pressure is great. Burped the oil filter and since then only had some minor problems to sort out. Appears as though my crank seal is leaking
      glad to hear its good.
      2003 Jetta 20v big turbo, FFE mini me turbo kit w/ Precision 5557 Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo, tile WG, UNI 630 file with 630 injectors, walbro inline fuel pump, Precision 650 front mount w/ 2.5in alum. Piping, Wisco pistons (9:1), AEB head, IE rods, o2m Trans, South Bend stg 3 endurance clutch kit, deleted AC, SAI, PS... Semi tucked wiring harness. More to come

    25. Member LouieTHEkid's Avatar
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      03-08-2011 05:03 PM #25
      Quote Originally Posted by Pg-Getta1.8 View Post
      i used the widow maker onece on my slammed jetta, the car broke it before i could get it off the ground. Went to sears and got a 2ton floor jack in a travel case for 50$ (on sale). I keep that in my trunk now. But if u ever jacked up a car, and had the front and rear tire off, this is becasue the unibody. The weight is to much for that little pos
      My jack needs about an extra 3/8" clearance to fit under the pinch welds. It's more than safe to use a smaller jack especially if the wheels never leave the ground. I'm unable to push the car up on wood blocks because well, I'm not the hulk

      Quote Originally Posted by Pg-Getta1.8 View Post
      glad to hear its good.
      Thanks, now just to sort out the oil leak
      "Hey you get off my cloud, See me get raw with my southpaw style" 3o1 KIDS Gonzo Tuning and EVAC
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    26. Member Slimjimmn's Avatar
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      03-09-2011 12:43 PM #26
      http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...ack-92782.html

      all you need homes...

      just sayin...

      Good deal on getting car running though. Bummer on crank seal
      Last edited by Slimjimmn; 03-09-2011 at 12:46 PM.
      the car is on an inclined driveway and up on jack stands in the front only
      02 GTI 1.8t:> 42DD 3" turboback, BFI full stg1 mount kit, Evoms CAI, Forge boost hoses, Tacotaco sidemount, Ebay TIP, IE 2.0 coil conversion, IE manual tensioner, 20th front brake conversion, IE emissions delete, 42dd catch can, Koni STR.t & WRD sport springs, Samco Coolant hoses, SMF vr6 clutch kit.

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