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    Thread: Audi tt bt build almost done I guess?

    1. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-17-2012 06:40 PM #351
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      ...
      i know the southbend clutch was 3,000 mile break in
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      05-18-2012 07:58 AM #352
      Quote Originally Posted by 01ttgt28 View Post
      i know the southbend clutch was 3,000 mile break in
      What's the clutch disc material? Either way, 3000 miles is way way way more than enough to break in a clutch. Break in just means marrying the clutch to the PP and FW, which only takes a few good engagements to remove the surface layers of each and allow the material dusts to mix, giving a good "mated" friction surface. Some material take longer than others, but I HIGHLY doubt yours requires 3000 miles. Besides, 3000 miles on the highway, or in stop and go traffic, or a mix? See my point? And your engine is as broken in as it's going to get after a few heat cyles. Nothing is going to happen that hasn't already happened. Put your foot down and give it hell. You didn't build it to baby it, so drive it like what it was built for. How many times have you changed the oil?

    3. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 08:01 AM #353
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      What's the clutch disc material? Either way, 3000 miles is way way way more than enough to break in a clutch. Break in just means marrying the clutch to the PP and FW, which only takes a few good engagements to remove the surface layers of each and allow the material dusts to mix, giving a good "mated" friction surface. Some material take longer than others, but I HIGHLY doubt yours requires 3000 miles. Besides, 3000 miles on the highway, or in stop and go traffic, or a mix? See my point? And your engine is as broken in as it's going to get after a few heat cyles. Nothing is going to happen that hasn't already happened. Put your foot down and give it hell. You didn't build it to baby it, so drive it like what it was built for. How many times have you changed the oil?
      One time Alex let it run up to temp a couple time and changed it
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      05-18-2012 08:08 AM #354
      Quote Originally Posted by 01ttgt28 View Post
      One time Alex let it run up to temp a couple time and changed it
      Synthetic, or regular oil?

    5. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 08:28 AM #355
      I understand and respect your precaution- but I'd listen to 20v and Marcus - give it hell.

      I did multiple non-synthetic oil changes. The first three had metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug that gave me panic attacks. I was changing every 100 miles then. After 1k converted to full synthetic lubro-molly and the thing runs great.

      Crank it to 20psi and give it a pull. It'll put a big smile on your face!
      -Doug

    6. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 09:02 AM #356
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      I understand and respect your precaution- but I'd listen to 20v and Marcus - give it hell.

      I did multiple non-synthetic oil changes. The first three had metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug that gave me panic attacks. I was changing every 100 miles then. After 1k converted to full synthetic lubro-molly and the thing runs great.

      Crank it to 20psi and give it a pull. It'll put a big smile on your face!
      Alex told me their was no metal shavings in my first oil change and my oil still looks clean
      Should it be getting black? should the oil still look fresh after 1,500 miles on a new motor?
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    7. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 09:04 AM #357
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      Synthetic, or regular oil?
      I really don't know but I will ask since I have to go up their Tuesday I still
      Have to install the fluidamper and ie light weight alternator pully also have to lower the front
      a bit more
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      05-18-2012 09:36 AM #358
      Quote Originally Posted by 01ttgt28 View Post
      Should it be getting black? should the oil still look fresh after 1,500 miles on a new motor?
      No, just shows that you're babying it too much. Doug, I've always done non synthetic for the first few changes (I change after first heat cycle, then at 50 miles, then at 500 miles switch to synthetic), but I recently started working for a major auto manufacturer and we install synthetic in all engines as they're built. There is no special break in oil, and no different service interval on the original oil than any other oil change. We offer 100K mile warranties on everything, so I conclude from that that the idea of synthetic being too slick for break in of cylinder bores, is just a myth.

      For the average DIY'er, the non synthetic is probably just to save money on oil you're going to change right away anyways.
      Last edited by 20v master; 05-18-2012 at 09:44 AM.

    9. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 10:43 AM #359
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      For the average DIY'er, the non synthetic is probably just to save money on oil you're going to change right away anyways.
      Yea the whole - run for 10 minutes, retorque the head studs then drain the oil is a very quick change haha

      Recently I found a local guy that has 5L jugs of lubromolly for $32 & OEM filters for $8 - considering that a deal!
      -Doug

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      05-18-2012 10:46 AM #360
      zddp. Lucas TB zinc+ is your friend


      I use a bottle per change.... if the car stumbles and sounds like it is going to die, no rattling metal noise. It really works well.

      It also prevents microwelding and glazed bores due to microwelding of material.

    11. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-18-2012 10:25 PM #361
      Alex used elf synthetic in my car and a larger filter
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      05-19-2012 05:43 AM #362
      Quote Originally Posted by Chuckmeister87 View Post
      I hate cops I got a citation just 2 nights ago while driving myself home from the airport because my tag was expired by 4 months. Still gave me the ticket for $114
      $114 aint Shit broski. my buddy just got a ticket last week for expired tags. $800 ticket. PLUS hes till gotta deal with the DMV on late fees AND THEN hes gotta pay registration.
      CA sucks.


      Quote Originally Posted by 01ttgt28 View Post
      Alex used elf synthetic in my car and a larger filter
      what is this "Elf synthetic" and "larger Filter" you speak of?

      also, its been a long while since i check up on your build here. just read the last 5 pages.
      glad to see you got it running.
      motor is plenty broken in. but i understand you wanting to be extra EXTRA careful, i'll prolly do the same when i rebuild my motor.
      and the motor looks shit hot!
      im diggin it.
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      Stop. Sell your VW, get off vortex.

    13. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-20-2012 11:40 AM #363
      Here's a pic I believe its for Turbo high revving engines

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    14. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      05-20-2012 10:07 PM #364
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      I think you might have some incorrect information. The head torquing procedure changes on what type of hardware you are using.

      If you're using studs you absolutely MUST re-torque the head after one heat cycle. No questions asked it's in the ARP manual and both performance shops I've went to have told me this.

      If you are using OEM stretch bolts you do not re-torque the head. I believe the same goes for ARP bolts, however, I am not sure and would like someone to confirm.
      For ARP 10mm head stud kit # 204-4103, I do not see the direction to retorque after one heat cycle in the official ARP directions.

      http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/204-4103.pdf
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    15. Member Jayizdaman's Avatar
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      05-21-2012 12:17 AM #365
      Quote Originally Posted by MÄDDNESSS View Post

      what is this "Elf synthetic" and "larger Filter" you speak of?
      Fully synthetic oil that is 502.00 spec for european cars in our case for TT's before 2004. Source

      You can get a larger OEM filter, though I've never used it, only OEM and Mann (which is basically OEM).

    16. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-24-2012 10:02 PM #366
      so i went by Alex at Wentworth motor sports today he changed my oil and filter
      Did my fluidampr pully



      Also installed new 90amp alternator with ie light weight pully



      He also lowered the car in the front and he removed the top of the perch in the rear if that's what its even called??



      So i just need to get my Meth controller fixed or replace my menth system if i can't so i will be hitting the dyno
      In the next week or two can't wait
      Last edited by 01ttgt28; 05-28-2012 at 03:56 PM.
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...t-done-I-guess
      ^^^Big Turbo build lots of pics^^^
      Best shop for repair and custom workin ma
      http://www.wentworthmotorsports.com/

    17. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-30-2012 10:36 AM #367
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...ower-Euro-Dash
      Thread has links in it^^

      It's just lighter and has a pocket under the steering wheel for the owners manual and a pocket under the headlight switch for I guess whatever ya want to put there.
      Thanks for the info I special ordered it from ecs tuneing won't be in till mid August
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    18. Member 01ttgt28's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 08:31 AM #368
      Just ordered snow performance stage 3 controller. After hours of searching for parts for the labonte kit
      The LCD board and touch have all been discontinued from all 3 different company's that made them
      So will have parts in 4 days can't wait
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...t-done-I-guess
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      05-31-2012 08:59 AM #369
      So a thread you started just under three months ago, and that is now 11 pages, is titled "almost done I guess?", and you've posted no less than a dozen times that you've "ordered" something else. Cracks me up.

    20. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 09:13 AM #370
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      So a thread you started just under three months ago, and that is now 11 pages, is titled "almost done I guess?", and you've posted no less than a dozen times that you've "ordered" something else. Cracks me up.
      You should know better than most - it's never done
      -Doug

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      05-31-2012 09:17 AM #371
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      You should know better than most - it's never done
      And you don't see me posting build threads either.

    22. Member Doooglasss's Avatar
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      05-31-2012 09:24 AM #372
      Quote Originally Posted by 20v master View Post
      And you don't see me posting build threads either.
      Check out my new build thread about air suspension and dope wheels worth more than my car.
      -Doug

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      05-31-2012 09:26 AM #373
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      Check out my new build thread about air suspension and dope wheels worth more than my car.

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      05-31-2012 12:10 PM #374
      Quote Originally Posted by DougLoBue View Post
      Check out my new build thread about air suspension and dope wheels worth more than my car.
      Siiiiiick bro! Did you get those 165 tires to fit on your 10" wide wheels?



      OP, below is what I did for the engine I built. After 20,000KM, the compression is within 5psi from low to high, and the leakdown is
      Jeremy Brehm: Regina Wedding Photographer

      '02 Audi TT 225 Build Thread - 2.0L - PTE6262 Daily @ 30PSI - 10.0:1CR - AEB @ 9000RPM - Maestro - RIP
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      05-31-2012 12:35 PM #375
      Yeah, that's about what I do, and have never had a problem. I don't change the filter so often on the first few changes/flushes, but I use a Filtermag on the filter. But yes, the "miles" people think it takes to break in an engine is greatly exaggerated. Here at the plant, we put synthetic oil in them, crank them to verify no leaks, then some test guy drives it around our 3 mile test track, the car gets loaded onto a truck/train, and off to the dealership it goes. Break in oil/procedure pfffftt!!!

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