I will take pics and post some videos hopefully by tomorrow.
The thing is so loud right now, I don't like running it too much and annoying the neighbors.
You'll hear what I mean once uploaded.
Does anyone have a weigh in on the O2 voltages.
At idle the voltage dwells around .4V and at throttle it goes up to 1.3V
To me it seems like the Lambda and DPR and doing the job.
Next up is buying a rebuild kit for one of my G Laders.
I already want more boost.
I pulled the G60 and gave it a full rebuild.
Fortunately it was in good shape, I dont think anything but the APEX strips were needing change but I did the full service and decided to do a mild port of the exit.
Not too crazy, but I hope it made a difference.
It has been running for a couple weeks.
Recently pretty well. Fabricated a home built cat(less)-back setup and bought and installed an innovate Wideband 02 sensor and LC-1 gauge to dial in the DPR and Mixture.
I put in 2 levels colder Bosch W4DPO equivalent spark plugs. I think they are too cold as it stutters off the line and A/F runs a low 10 typical.
I might put the W5DPO equivalents in it and then throw the Bosch Platinum OEMs to get a gauge of its running manners.
Planning this weekend to setup a WOT sprayer for the front of the intercooler. and make some air scoop fairing, nothing fancy as I want the OEM look, willl try some NACA like arrangment.
Mine I/C is OEM and in the stock fender location and I think it needs a little help.
Hoping to get some tires this week and do some cosmetic finish work then get it out for inspection and start driving it to bed in the G Lader.
I am looking forward to some open highway driving under boost, as now it's just been short runs on our gravel road ~5PSI and running out of RPM.
Will have more updates and pictures soon.
I will do this again (CIS-E G60) as the setup is pretty straightforward and the learning curve is much less of an issue.
Frenched in an air scoop for the fender mounted I/C.
Also mounted the MFA Temperature sensor behind the I/C to get the boost temperature
And wired DRL's in my H4 City Lites Yellow/Amber, always on and a nice match to the Parking lights when they are on.
Next up, CTS and Fuel/Air Temperature sensor to get the Mixture back in closed loop where it should be.
A/F Running low 10's on the wideband all the time and the engine is too rich.
ISV Re-route test to see if the GTI ISV is dumping boost.
Tires this week.
Survey to anyone who is watching this, should I put 195/60/14's on my Black QSW snowflakes or mount them to my teardrops.
Last edited by nbvwfan; 07-31-2012 at 12:02 PM.
Interesting setup. Don't forget to cut vent holes (or put a grille) in the wheelhouse liner
And those aren't DRLs, they're city lights. but you have them wired correctly it seems
The fender well is pushed out and will adress exit flow. Working front to back but thanks.
The Depo City's yes, I had no sockets so I ordered some T10's and a wired Fuse 6 gauges lead to a harness plug and play to each headlight.
LED's and on with ignition.
This is a subtle accent without looking all stupid.
It took a while to get the headlights but it is worth the work, H4's in this are awsome.
Last edited by nbvwfan; 07-31-2012 at 12:31 PM.
It runs, and runs right.
Turned out to be clogged injectors due to ethanol gas going bad and baking itself into the pintles.
Drove it in to work today.
Staying out of the boost, a/c on and A/F ~14 all the way in.
Been continuing work on the GTI.
fiddled with the DPR and have things better than before.
Recently battling Rich at idle and lean WOT.
I cannot get a slight WOT lean delay. After about fifty tweaks to the DPR power curve adjustment I still have a brief 14.5 peak before the current drives the A/F down to ~12.
If I gradually let the DPR catch up and then hammer to WOT I get a solid 11 A/F.
I know, a video would help describe this.
But I am wondering, should I keep tweaking the DPR tune, or look into a FMU.
I have a feeling I need a fuel pressure rise at boost and the DPR current and fuel distributor cannot compensate for the abrupt fuel demand of 5-10 PSI sweeps.
Anyone have any tips on a decent FMU ratio for a car running 9:1 C/R and 5-10 PSI boost.
The CIS-E FPR can deliver the volume, just not as quickly as it is needed.
Looking for safe fuel enrichment.
Also, anyone have an RSR outlet for sale.
I noticed my silencer box is weeping a bit, want to change it out for an upgrade RSR.
Last edited by nbvwfan; 08-27-2012 at 12:35 PM.
Anyone have anything to input?
I guess this build thread is dead.
Need to post some pics soon
It seems to be able to deliver plenty of fuel. (WOT 9.8-10:1)
But you have an intersting point, maybe the upper/lower chambers total volume are not enough for the DPR to modulate.
Though before I have ~11 A/F that would drop to ~10 at part throttle, I was trying to tuned that overly rich setting out to get some economy, though now it seems I went too far in the other direction.
I tried fooling the FPR by drilling holes in the sensor plate 2@1/8". This did not work nearly like I wanted, I got at idle stalling becasue the plate was easier to push down by the DPR and not enough lift at midthrottle.
I am going to fiddle witht he DPR some more Saturday. This is now my daily, so I cannot make major adjustments during the work week.
If gas was not supplemented with ethanol I would not have some of these issues. Lately I have been dealing with clogged injectors (that were cleaned last fall), a preassure drop at the fuel filter and accumulator due to waxy sediment buildup, and things like the DPR adjustment screw going way off becasue of buildup from sitting.
Thinking about what I will be trying out to continue to improve A/F conditions.
It seems I have shaken out the major issues and I am dealing with the limitations of Boosted CIS-E.
Wondered if anyone has any ideas on how to regulate the effects of boost return on A/F ratio's.
Presently, my Idle is at about 12.5:1 with part throttle rising to ~13.5:1 which then increases to ~14.5 once boost comes on and then drops to ~13:1 at 5psi and drops further to ~12:1 once I am on it at WOT and ~8PSI.
It is acceptable, but not ideal, and it seems my injectors run out of system pressure while the DPR tries to catchup with the load.
Cruising and off throttle I have a momentary drop to ~11:1 which then settles back to 12.5:1.
MPG last tank was 23.4, which is not as good as I would like, but I guess that is the cost of boost and supercharging.
I see that if I had turboed I may have had some more useable economy.
I had tried deleting boost return (venting to atmosphere) but A/F was pegged at 10:1. Given the FPR is ahead of the charger, there is no way around the draw of an unloaded (closed throttle) engine and charger spinning high rpm driving the sensor plate up and dumping way too much fuel. If I could create some sort of TPS at the throttle to regulate the DPR current I think I could make it work, but so far I don't see how I can patch in TPS to the DPR line in. Will have to read some more on the wiring in my Bentley.
Going to work on a CIS-E component re-route.
After thinking over things while watching my Wideband for too long, I am going to move the FPR, T/B, boost return. Some things I am getting over. while I park it and work on the body and paintprep
1. It is not going to look stock, but at this point, it is not stock
2. It willl take some serious fabricating, but I have the tools and need the practice
3. I will have to cut some of the G60 components, but I already have about 3 of everthing I need
4. I won't be drving it for a couple weeks, but I can enjoy my slow Vanagon again
Well here goes, below are crude component placement overlays in case anyone cares.
From what I understand at this point, this is how one could supercharge on CIS-E. My initial layout woks, but economy of 24MPG is not ideal.
Been making some progress while I have it torn down. Either waiting for Filler to cure or Welds to cool.
My re-route and 2.5" I/C piping is almost done, though not that pretty.
I am looking forward to some significant tuning gains and some nice Tornado/Mars Red pop.
Got some more piping mounted and T/B in place. Everything is starting to fit and come together.
It's all 2.5" piping and T-Bar clamps so I should not have any leaks or losses due to the OEM corrado plumbing.
I have yet to graft a home made RSR to the T/B but I have the materials and have to just layout the cone in sheetmetal and do some welding. I am hoping to fininsh the plumbing this weekend and fire it up, but will have to do some wiring tidying and extensions but that is not nearly as challenging as the plumbing and FPR and T/B relocating.
I should change this thread to, the project no one cares to reply to..
Either because there is no interest, it is not believed do-able, or it has never been done and is not considered mainstream.
Here is the progress for this weekend.
I finished fabricating all the plumbing. All the silver was done TIG and in garage.
I have to make an air filter mount and hump interface, lengthen two fuel lines, extend three connectors, and I am ready to fire this up by the weekend.
Home made RSR
T/B close up and dump pipe
Overall System plumbed and F/I lines routed
Clearer Near finished pic
Last edited by nbvwfan; 10-01-2012 at 02:58 PM.
Everything is done except for lengthening the ISV, TPS, and T/B connector and the Crankcase to G60 breather.
I extened the connectors and made a block off plate and Crankcase breather to charger.
It started right up.
BUT, I need to make an aluminum version of the "snake head".
Apparently it does not work at 30 in of vaccuum.
I suspected this would be the case.
More fabricating tonight, hoping it is the last of it for this conversion.
Replaced the snakehead and the lower intercooler rubber transition with aluminum. Clearance is tighter than I like. The car starts and runs and I see boost as the FPR rises up and down relative to pressure. It surges though and then stalls once off the gas. A/F is better responding as I had hoped (FPR after G60), but the location of the T/B so far upstream of the intake manifold induces a pressure wave that the FPR cannot readily respond to.
I am going to have to relocate the T/B back to the intake manifold and work out a pre FPR bypass or dump valve. Will dig through my parts to find a N/A 8V T/B and just pull the corrado version.
Messed around with making steel flares. Did not like 3" so I trimmed it down to 2". Still too much flare so I may trim it to 1". If it still looks to flared I will just ditch the idea.
Pictures if anyone is watching or cares... I thought there would be more interest in an outside the box build.
Last edited by nbvwfan; 10-08-2012 at 10:27 AM.