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    Thread: 09A GNZ transmission problem

    1. Member
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      07-31-2012 02:33 PM #71
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      Have you verified you put the wires on the correct solenoids?
      I'm sure I connected the wires on the correct solenoids, I checked the manual for the JF506E and the pictures I took before removing the valve body for the first time, so I'm sure they are correctly connected.

      Thank you for the info on why some of the solenoids don't click when energized.

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      07-31-2012 02:53 PM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      This paragraph makes no sense to me. I thought your problem was no reverse?
      My problem used to be no reverse, this issue was due to incorrect assembly: piston for multidisc brake B2 was not aligned, manual valve on the VB was not hooked and brake band servo was not properly adjusted. I fixed these 3 issues and reverse became available.
      My issue now is no pressure at low clutch tab, this issue started when I removed the VB because I wanted to check why I was having slight high pressure at idle at low clutch and reverse tabs, the entire VB was assembled correctly so I put it back together and installed it back and when I checked low clutch tab for pressure, gauge didn't show anything and car wouldn't move forward unless it was accelerated at around 2K RPMs but is very very slow, I checked for pressure at reverse tab and gauge showed high pressure at idle and car would move backwards.
      I checked all wire harnesses, inside the transmission, in the engine bay, in the plenum chamber, in the instrument panel, I even removed the dashboard to check all the wires and grounds.
      I found dirty ground points and 1 of them loose, a brake light switch closed at all times (both internal switches) and solenoid N93 having continuity between ground terminal and solenoid body which old solenoid does not have.
      I corrected all these issues, I replaced new N93 with the old N93. But transmission was still not showing pressure at low clutch tab. Then I checked TCM to see if it was energizing N88, N89 and N92 and one of them was not being energized when in D, a repair shop quoted too high to repair the TCM, I bought a used one, installed it but still no pressure at low clutch tab, I checked TCM to see if it was energizing N88, N89, N92 and N93 and this TCM is energizing them. This is when I disconnected the TCM to make the car go into limp mode and car started moving forward when at idle, and moved backwards when in R, so something is inhibiting the TCM to correctly comand the solenoids???...am I correct?

      All fuses, relays, wires, sensors and solenoids are OK. TCM is not showing any DTCs but still cannot see pressure at low clutch.

      Any input you may provide will be very much appreciated.

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      07-31-2012 02:59 PM #73
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      Is this just a comment? Of course if your in failsafe your not gonna have pressure at 1st, 2nd and 3rd. IIRC trans takes off in 4th on this trans when in failsafe.
      I made this comment because transmission acts as it was in limp mode but "PRND432" display lights up correctly and there are no DTCs stored in the TCM or ECM or ABS modules. The difference I noticed when I dissconnected the transmission is that car can move forward when in D without having to accelerate it.
      When not in limp mode, I cannot see pressure at low clutch and car will move forward only when accelerated.
      R is always available and pressure is always high.

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      07-31-2012 03:00 PM #74
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      EDIT: I dont know why you said n93 there but n90 is the solenoid that inhibits reverse not n93.
      No reverse is no longer my issue, my current issue is no pressure at low clutch tab

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      07-31-2012 03:02 PM #75
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      also... have you attempted to drive forward? Meaning with the car assembled... not with the TCM disconnected or anything else? (sorry I dont have time to "re-read" to see if you did this.

      You might gain some valuable peice of info if there was a missing gear or something.
      I drove the car when I solved the no R issue, all gears kicked in, the only issue was slight high pressure when at idle

    6. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      08-02-2012 02:47 PM #76
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      My problem used to be no reverse, this issue was due to incorrect assembly: piston for multidisc brake B2 was not aligned, manual valve on the VB was not hooked and brake band servo was not properly adjusted. I fixed these 3 issues and reverse became available.
      My issue now is no pressure at low clutch tab, this issue started when I removed the VB .
      I love this thread..

      Its very unusual that your indicator is "backlit" yet you have no codes. But if your indicator is backlit you will have to solve that before you go any further. What does vag-com say about gear position? Does it show park when your in park and reverse when your in reverse ect?
      Last edited by CoolAirVw; 08-02-2012 at 02:52 PM.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
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      08-02-2012 08:32 PM #77
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      I love this thread..

      Its very unusual that your indicator is "backlit" yet you have no codes. But if your indicator is backlit you will have to solve that before you go any further. What does vag-com say about gear position? Does it show park when your in park and reverse when your in reverse ect?
      The gear indicator is not "backlit" and TCM have no codes, but transmission behaves as it was in limp mode. No blown fuses, no shorts to ground on all wires, no shorts between lead wires, all solenoids and sensors are within specifications, all relays OK, but still high pressure at idle when in R and no pressure at low clutch tab, but at high RPMs (around 2K) car will move forward very slow, as it was very heavy.

      When on purpose I create a failure (for instance, disconnect the transmission) TCM will go into limp mode, indicator will be "backlit", I get high pressure at idle when in R and car will move forward at idle when in D, but no pressure at low clutch tab, which is normal for limp mode.

      Differences between limp mode vs no limp mode is that car can move forward when in D at idle speed, when not in limp mode, car can only move forward when D when is at high RPMs and car feels very heavy and low clutch tab shows no pressure (limp mode behavior except for the need of high RPMs to move forward).

      F125 is OK, vag com detects gear changes, as well as the indicator, if I on purpose disconnect F125 TCM will detect the error and it will show in vag com as F125 Condition unknown

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      08-20-2012 12:54 AM #78
      I have finished with this rebuild.

      Problem for no pressure at low clutch tab was that the shift valve A was stuck.
      I removed it, sanded the edges of the valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now I'm getting pressure at low clutch tab.

      Now transmission is working as it should.

      Thank you all who helped me with this, hope this post will help other people.

    9. 08-30-2012 05:21 PM #79
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      If manual valve is not hooked, depending on the position it was left, car will not respond to the selector (PRND432)

      I only became aware of this manual valve when I read a post by CoolAirVw, thank you.
      upon re-installation of a valve body, if the manual valve was not connected, you would essentially have no forward or reverse gears because moving the shift selector is doing nothing more than having the computer turning solenoids on and off..... Right?

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      08-31-2012 01:20 AM #80
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      upon re-installation of a valve body, if the manual valve was not connected, you would essentially have no forward or reverse gears because moving the shift selector is doing nothing more than having the computer turning solenoids on and off..... Right?
      You might have one speed depending on the position the manual valve was left when valve body was installed. Your logic is correct, TCM will command a speed but ATF will not follow the correct passages of the valve body because the manual valve will be blockig or redirecting ATF to a different path.
      In my case I had only forward gears because that's how I had left the manual valve.

    11. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      09-09-2012 09:35 AM #81
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      I have finished with this rebuild.

      Problem for no pressure at low clutch tab was that the shift valve A was stuck.
      I removed it, sanded the edges of the valve, cleaned it and reinstalled it and now I'm getting pressure at low clutch tab.

      Now transmission is working as it should.

      Thank you all who helped me with this, hope this post will help other people.
      I'm glad you got it fixed! Nice job...


      nailed
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
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      09-09-2012 12:55 PM #82
      Quote Originally Posted by CoolAirVw View Post
      I'm glad you got it fixed! Nice job...


      nailed
      Yeah, finally...hahaha.

      I didn't noticed it at first because valve moved a little when I was inspecting all valves...at the end I decided to make all valves move the entire lenght and then is when I notices the issue.

      Thanks for all the help

    13. 09-10-2012 03:12 PM #83
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      You might have one speed depending on the position the manual valve was left when valve body was installed. Your logic is correct, TCM will command a speed but ATF will not follow the correct passages of the valve body because the manual valve will be blockig or redirecting ATF to a different path.
      In my case I had only forward gears because that's how I had left the manual valve.

      I removed the valve body again and tested as you suggested. the valve end disappears from view when shifted above 2nd and reappears when shifted back into 2nd.

      But I now have another issue. After getting everything back together the display on the dash is not seeing the change from Reverse to Neutral and will not engage reverse at all. I do get forward gears once I select 4th, which shows as Drive on the display. Did I miss something else? or could the issue be the selector switch that sits on top of the trans?

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      09-10-2012 05:43 PM #84
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      I removed the valve body again and tested as you suggested. the valve end disappears from view when shifted above 2nd and reappears when shifted back into 2nd.

      But I now have another issue. After getting everything back together the display on the dash is not seeing the change from Reverse to Neutral and will not engage reverse at all. I do get forward gears once I select 4th, which shows as Drive on the display. Did I miss something else? or could the issue be the selector switch that sits on top of the trans?
      Did you plugged back the multifunction switch? (black switch on top of the transmission)

      Is the selector display backlit? When in limp mode, R and 4th are available through the manual valve, but is odd that in your case R is not available.

      Unplug the transmission (round connector on the side of valve body case) and turn engine on and try to select R. If R is not engaged then there is something wrong with the assembly.
      What work did you perform on the tranny? what were the original symptoms?

    15. 09-10-2012 06:28 PM #85
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      Did you plugged back the multifunction switch? (black switch on top of the transmission)

      Is the selector display backlit? When in limp mode, R and 4th are available through the manual valve, but is odd that in your case R is not available.

      Unplug the transmission (round connector on the side of valve body case) and turn engine on and try to select R. If R is not engaged then there is something wrong with the assembly.
      What work did you perform on the tranny? what were the original symptoms?
      OK let me start from the beginning....I purchased a solenoid set. Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body. I reassembled everything and missed connecting the manual valve in the valve body to the selecting level. I disassembled and reassembled everything making sure that the manual valve and the selecting level are connected. Selector display looks completely normal other than when I shift down from reverse to neutral it doesn't see the difference. And reverse never engages, however I get forward gears when I shift down to 4th, and the display on the dash thinks I'm in drive I get forward gears.

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      09-10-2012 07:28 PM #86
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      OK let me start from the beginning....I purchased a solenoid set. Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body. I reassembled everything and missed connecting the manual valve in the valve body to the selecting level. I disassembled and reassembled everything making sure that the manual valve and the selecting level are connected. Selector display looks completely normal other than when I shift down from reverse to neutral it doesn't see the difference. And reverse never engages, however I get forward gears when I shift down to 4th, and the display on the dash thinks I'm in drive I get forward gears.
      Do you have vag com?....maybe you should scan the TCM and see if vag com can detect the multifunction switch.

      Did you open the valve body? or did you just remove it from the case to be able to push the screw back in?

      But first, did you align the multifunction switch when assembling back? The switch has a mark near the hole where the selector shaft is inserted, that mark is neutral, put the selector in neutral and then match the markings and then tighten the bolts. After this is done you can hook the cable to the multifunction switch.

    17. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 01:57 PM #87
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      Lost the stud that holds n92 back into the valve body and had to pull the valve body.
      Usually a strong magnet pulls that out.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
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    18. 09-12-2012 11:02 PM #88
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      Do you have vag com?....maybe you should scan the TCM and see if vag com can detect the multifunction switch.

      Did you open the valve body? or did you just remove it from the case to be able to push the screw back in?

      But first, did you align the multifunction switch when assembling back? The switch has a mark near the hole where the selector shaft is inserted, that mark is neutral, put the selector in neutral and then match the markings and then tighten the bolts. After this is done you can hook the cable to the multifunction switch.
      I do not have a vag com. I did not open the valve body I only removed it form the trans and reinstalled it.

      I did resolve the display showing the incorrect gear....the end of the shifter cable has a piece that adjusts and it apparently got push out of wack, so after readjusting it everything is displaying correctly and everything is selecting correctly.....however I still do not have reverse....

      There is a CEL on and have not had the code read but I'm stumped as to why I do not have reverse. However, I have a hunch....There are two wires that attached to the valve body (one from the main wiring harness and one form a solenoid) , I'm assuming, are ground wires. I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?

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      09-13-2012 12:54 AM #89
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      I do not have a vag com. I did not open the valve body I only removed it form the trans and reinstalled it.

      I did resolve the display showing the incorrect gear....the end of the shifter cable has a piece that adjusts and it apparently got push out of wack, so after readjusting it everything is displaying correctly and everything is selecting correctly.....however I still do not have reverse....

      There is a CEL on and have not had the code read but I'm stumped as to why I do not have reverse. However, I have a hunch....There are two wires that attached to the valve body (one from the main wiring harness and one form a solenoid) , I'm assuming, are ground wires. I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?
      If grounds are loose that could be a problem but if they are tight then that shouldn't be an issue.
      If you disconnect the transmission to make it go into limp mode you should be able to engange reverse (i dont remember if you tried this already) but if you try it and can't engage R then there's something wrong in the valve body. There are two seals behind the VB and one of them is for the oil supply for R, where those correctly positioned?....it would help a pressure gauge so you can see if you are gettin pressure at R tap

    20. 09-13-2012 11:19 AM #90
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      If grounds are loose that could be a problem but if they are tight then that shouldn't be an issue.
      If you disconnect the transmission to make it go into limp mode you should be able to engange reverse (i dont remember if you tried this already) but if you try it and can't engage R then there's something wrong in the valve body. There are two seals behind the VB and one of them is for the oil supply for R, where those correctly positioned?....it would help a pressure gauge so you can see if you are gettin pressure at R tap
      The grounds are tight... How do I force the trans into limp mode? Disconnect the electrical connector on the side? Seals? are you referring to the gaskets between the valve body and the pump? or is there an actual ring seal? Where is the R tap on the trans?

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      09-13-2012 11:20 AM #91
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      I don't think they were grounded to the same bolt but when reassembling everything I grounded them together... I can't see that causing this issue....but maybe..... anyone have any idea why I would not have reverse?
      In my car, they were originally attached as follow:

      Ground wire from solenoid wire harness --> N90 silver bolt
      Ground wire for N93 solenoid --> N91 bolt

    22. 09-13-2012 11:38 AM #92
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      In my car, they were originally attached as follow:

      Ground wire from solenoid wire harness --> N90 silver bolt
      Ground wire for N93 solenoid --> N91 bolt
      Do you think having them grounded together would cause N90 to stick?

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      09-13-2012 03:02 PM #93
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      Do you think having them grounded together would cause N90 to stick?
      No, a poor connection to ground will cause an electrical malfunction and could trigger a code in the TCM.

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      09-13-2012 04:03 PM #94
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      The grounds are tight... How do I force the trans into limp mode? Disconnect the electrical connector on the side? Seals? are you referring to the gaskets between the valve body and the pump? or is there an actual ring seal? Where is the R tap on the trans?
      Disconnect the round electrical connector that is on the side of the valve body case. This way the transmission will only be working with the manual valve, R and 4th can be selected this way. If you cannot select R with the transmission unplugged then you left something wrong when you put back the VB.
      On the valve body case (where the VB sits) there two round seals, one of those ports goes to R

    25. 09-14-2012 08:39 PM #95
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      Disconnect the round electrical connector that is on the side of the valve body case. This way the transmission will only be working with the manual valve, R and 4th can be selected this way. If you cannot select R with the transmission unplugged then you left something wrong when you put back the VB.
      On the valve body case (where the VB sits) there two round seals, one of those ports goes to R
      Ok.....so no reverse even in limp mode with the round connector removed. Are these round seals separate from the flat seal on the back of the valve body? are they o-ring seals? Could it possibly just be a bad solenoid even though its new?

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      09-14-2012 11:15 PM #96
      Quote Originally Posted by 03GLSturbo View Post
      Ok.....so no reverse even in limp mode with the round connector removed. Are these round seals separate from the flat seal on the back of the valve body? are they o-ring seals? Could it possibly just be a bad solenoid even though its new?
      No, at this point it cannot be a solenoid. Something is wrong in the valve body, you have to remove the oil pan and check the valve body.
      Do you have forward gears? If you put it in neutral or park or any other speed other than R does it do what is supposed to be doing?
      I suggest you remove the VB and double check everything, if everything is OK then you can move on to something different.
      Make sure gaskets and seals are properly positioned.
      The seals that are behind the valve body (on the valve body case) are two, they are small and round.

    27. 02-21-2013 01:46 AM #97
      somebody have pics of how change ATF on auto trans for 04/05 Jetta gli 1.8t mk4 with tiptronic?
      any help will be appreciated.

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      02-21-2013 10:51 AM #98
      Quote Originally Posted by glbikefixer View Post
      somebody have pics of how change ATF on auto trans for 04/05 Jetta gli 1.8t mk4 with tiptronic?
      any help will be appreciated.
      For 09A ATF fill/refill check this thread:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...c-Transmission

    29. 02-22-2013 01:35 AM #99
      Quote Originally Posted by carfreak01 View Post
      For 09A ATF fill/refill check this thread:

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...c-Transmission
      Thanks you so much, you make my day!!

    30. 05-17-2013 08:26 PM #100
      I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.

      Thanks

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      05-17-2013 11:58 PM #101
      Quote Originally Posted by tictactes View Post
      I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.

      Thanks
      with the VB outside of the transmission push the manual valve all the way in until is sticking out on the other side, now turn the transmission shifter shaft all the way to the left (as if you were selecting 2nd) then install the VB again making sure the manual valve is sticking out of the VB, once installed turn the shifter shaft to the right (as if you were selecting park) manual valve should have gotten in the VB, then turn shifter shaft to 2nd and manual valve should be sticking out again of the VB, this indicates a correct installation of the manual valve.

    32. Member CoolAirVw's Avatar
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      05-28-2013 08:00 AM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by tictactes View Post
      I decided to remove my valve body in my MK4 jetta to replace all 9 solenoids and was not aware of the manual valve or The hand-operated change-over valve so I put everything back together only to discover I only had forward motion. I have tired for an hour to get the pin on the detent lever lined back up with the manual valve but cann figure it out. Does anyone know how to get the valve body back in the trans while lining up the pin for the manual valve.

      Thanks
      VB doesn't need removed to replace the solenoids. Its a shame to do extra work to make it more complicated and difficult to figure out when you do something wrong.
      Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
      ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
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      06-29-2013 03:30 PM #103
      Carfreak,
      Thanks for posting the advice on reconnecting manual valve (or the hand-operated change-over valve). My 04 jetta trip trans has a no reverse problem that I believe could be related to a disconnected hand-operated change-over valve. Is this valve located on the backside of the tranny valve body such that the valve body needs to be removed to get to it? Or, can it be inspected without dropping tranny?
      Thanks for any advice!

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      06-29-2013 03:37 PM #104
      Another possibly stupid question.. Is the hand-operated change-over valve actuated by the gear shift lever via the multi-function switch (f125)? If not, what is connected to the change-over valve that actuates it -- anything external to the tranny that might have become disconnected or broken?
      Thanks

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      06-30-2013 04:25 PM #105
      Quote Originally Posted by texasbootz View Post
      Carfreak,
      Thanks for posting the advice on reconnecting manual valve (or the hand-operated change-over valve). My 04 jetta trip trans has a no reverse problem that I believe could be related to a disconnected hand-operated change-over valve. Is this valve located on the backside of the tranny valve body such that the valve body needs to be removed to get to it? Or, can it be inspected without dropping tranny?
      Thanks for any advice!
      You don't need to remove the VB to see if the manual valve is hooked or not. But you will have to remove the valve body in order to hook the manual valve.
      I would disconnect the transmission first to make it go into limp mode and then see if reverse is available...if it is then the issue could be electronic....if not then problem could be mechanical.
      To visually inspect for a hooked manual valve you will need to remove the transmission oil pan, manual valve sticks out of the left side of the valve body (vehicle left side, not yours) when selector is in 2nd and then gets inside the valve body when selector is in park. If this happens then manual valve is properly hooked.
      To remove the trans oil pan you need to drain the atf first.

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