Beta's Build Thread

[BetaOp9]

Yes! Another build thread! I think I have a unique enough setup to warrant this.

If not, feel free to stop reading....right....about......now.

Okay, for those of you who have continued on, grab some snacks and a drink. Going to be a bit of reading. You're also welcome skip the the pretty pictures.

Owner Information

Name: Shawn
Business: Owner of PerformanceLEDs.com
Current Location: Gainesville, FL
Zodiac Sign: Cancer [The Crab]


Vehicle Information

Name: Ralph Rimmy Rimmer III [#2392]
Occupation: Full-time Money Pit and part-time therapist to owner [for those really crummy days].
Birth Date: October 13th, 2007
Birth Place: Jacksonville, FL
Zodiac Sign: Libra [The Scales]

---------------------------------
------- Modification List -------
---------------------------------

• ===== COMPLETED MODIFICATIONS =====
  
  Engine Upgrades
  
  **PENDING 3.6L FSI ENGINE SWAP***
  
  Exhaust
• Magnaflow Resonator 14" [Installed 11/2011] ||Videos
• Blueflame Rear Muffler Section [Installed 11/2011] ||Videos
  
  Software Management
• UnitedMotorsport ECU Performance Flash [Installed 03/09/2012]
• UnitedMotorsport DSG Performance Flash [Installed 03/09/2012]
• HPA Gen II Haldex Controller w/ Switch Cable
  
  Brake System
• Racing Brakes 2-Piece Lightweight Front Rotors [Delivered]
• Racing Brakes 2-Piece Lightweight Rear Rotors [Delivered]
• Hawk HPS Street Pads - Front [Installed on 03/13/2011] || Pre-install ||
• Hawk HPS Street Pads - Rear [Installed on 04/09/2011] || Pre-install ||
• TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit [Installed on 03/13/2011] || Pre-install || Install Guide ||
• Forge Motorsport [Hosetechnik] Stainless Steel Brake Lines [Installed on 04/09/2011]
  
  Chassis Upgrades
• HPA Core Interlock "Hockey Puck" [Installed on 03/13/2011] || Pre-install || Install Guide ||
• H&R 26mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar [Installed back in the day]
• H&R Sport Lowering Springs [Summer 2010]
• Unibrace XB [Installed on 02/24/2012] || ...coming soon...
  
  Cosmetic Upgrades
• European Front Bumper Skin [Completed on 03/21/2011] || Photos ||
• European Front Plate Holder [Completed on 07/28/2010] || Uses 4x Plastic Rivets for mounting. [Part Number N-038-549-1] ||
• European Power Folding Mirrors /w Puddle Lights [Installed 05/16/2011] || Mostly functional minus the power fold feature. Pending new door modules.||
• www.performanceleds.com LED City Lights @ 6000K [Completed on 03/29/2011] || Install Pics ||
• www.performanceleds.com LED License Plate Lights @ 6000K [Completed on 03/29/2011]
• ECS Blind Spot Mirrors [Blue Tint]
  
  Wheels & Tires
• Volk Racing CE-28n 18x8 [ET+50] @ 14.7lbs each
• Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 235/40ZR18
  
  Interior Upgrades
• R36 Dead Pedal
• European Headlight Switch [Rear Fog Only]
• European Cupholder
• European Dash Cubby || [Installed 05/16/2011] ||
• OEM Silver Glovebox Handle [Sourced from an 06 GTI]
• OEM Door Warning Lights || [Installed 05/16/2011] ||
• www.performanceleds.com LED Interior Lights @ 6000K
• OEM Front Overhead Console /w 3rd Map Light + Lit Sunroof Dial [Sourced from an 06 GTI] || [Installed 10/02/2011] || Photos ||
  
  Additional Accessories
• Whispbar S6 Base Roof Rack
• Thule 690XT MOAB Cargo Basket
• Thule 692 Cargo Net
• Keeper Waterproof [15 ft³] Roof Top Cargo Bag
• OEM Rear Storage Tray
• OEM Rear Storage Net
  
  
  ..more needs to be listed...
  
  
  

• ===== IN THE SHORT TERM =====
  
  Electronics Upgrades
• RNS-510 Navigation System [Planned]
• FISCON Basic-Plus [Planned]
  
  Chassis Upgrade
• Whiteline Beam axle (Rear Trailing Arm) Bushing Kit [Delivered]
  
  Brake System
• Racing Brakes 345mm Calipers [Bolt-on Replacement] [In Development]
  
  Exhaust Upgrades
• Scorpion Exhaust?
  
  
  Misc Additions
• Gen 3 MAX Door Controller Modules to enable power folding mirror functionality. [Driver/Pass]
  

• ===== IN THE LONG TERM =====
  
  Electronics Upgrades
• MKVI Climatronic System with RNS-510 Integration
  
  Suspension Upgrades
• TBD
  
  Chassis Upgrades
• TBD
  

• ===== NO LONGER INSTALLED =====
  
  Engine
• OEM 3.2l 24v VR6 Motor [Decommissioned]
• REVO Technik STG II ECU Flash
• REVO Technik STG II DSG Flash
• Evolution Motorsports [EVOMs] 3.2L V-Flow Intake [+ thermal wrap to heat shield]
• Modshack VTDA with V-Stack Intake System
• Forge Motorsport BFI [Big Freaking Intake] [Installed 02/29/2012] || Write Up
• Gruvenparts MK5 3.2L VR6 Lightweight Pulley Kit [Installed 08/18/2011]
  
  Brake System
• Adams Rotors - Front [Drilled/Drilled/Slotted] || Black Anodized with Black Painted Hubs || [Installed on 03/13/2011] ||
• Adams Rotors - Rear [Drilled/Drilled/Slotted] || Black Anodized with Black Painted Hubs || [Installed on 04/09/2011] ||
  
  Wheels
• OEM 18x7.5" Omanyts [5x112 +51]
• Neuspeed RS10's 19x8 +45mm [Powder-coated Gold]
• ECS 10.5mm Spacers [Rear]
  Tires
• 225/40ZR18 Continental EXTREME CONTACT DWS Tires [Installed 05/03/2011]
  
  

===== MOST RECENT PHOTOS =====

[BetaOp9]

---------------------------------
---------- THE PREFACE ----------
---------------------------------

Enter my First Volkswagen


Taken August 16th, 2007

I owned a 2003 Dodge RAM 1500 before this, and was looking for something small, sporty, and easier on gas since I commuted 150 miles a day. After lots of shopping, I was eyeballing a MKIV GTI for a while when I finally test drove the MKV and was almost immediately sold.

His name was 'Gus Gus' which was short for 'Gustav'. I really enjoyed how easy this car generated power and how quick it was in a straight line, but it wasn't enough for me. I got tired of losing traction over and over and over again. [For those curious, these wheels are the OZ Superturismo GT's in 19x8" in Race Silver + Black Lettering] and yes, the little object on the dash is a rubber duck flying a space shuttle.

----------------------------------------------------------

This photo represents my transition from my 2006 CW MKV GTI to my 2008 TR MKV R32.


Taken October 28th, 2007

The CW GTI is not my ACTUAL GTI, but a friend of mine who's was near identical to mine except with a 6 speed.

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR ONE ------------
---------------------------------

First night home


Taken October 14th, 2007

After spending ALL FREAKING DAY trying to buy this car [the dealer wanted to add premiums because they knew this was the only TR for over a thousand miles] and almost going home without it, that once I got home I couldn't really believe it. I was so excited that I didn't even bother messing with the settings on my D200. The color temp is horrible, the shot is blurry, and composition is rubbish but I love it. Every time I see it, it reminds me how extremely proud and happy I was to look out the window that night and see him sitting there. I hope he's just as happy to be MY car as I am to be HIS owner.

----------------------------------------------------------

First exterior modification


Taken on October 19th, 2007

As you can see, the first thing I did was remove the front plate bracket and with brute like engineering, I used some industrial strength velcro to hold the euro plate on to cover up those nasty holes. This actually looked good from anywhere but up close [as you can see in the below photo] and would later be replaced with a holeless grille with love from VWoA.

----------------------------------------------------------

European LED Taillights


Taken October 23rd, 2007

After MUCH debate on whether or not to put the LED taillights from my MKV GTI onto the MKV R32, I decided to just do it and see what I thought. I didn't bother with any wiring changes or pinout changes, in the end I really loved it.

----------------------------------------------------------

Ralph Rimmy Rimmer III's First VW Show


Taken on October 28th, 2007

I had my OZ Superturismo's left over from my GTI and with FixxFest hot on my heels, I decided to put them on my R32 with it's unsightly wheel gap and hoped to impress. While I highly doubt I impressed anyone with my stance and most of the people thought it was a fat pig among swans, I still had a lot of fun spending time with a lot of great fellow owners. I took the wheels off after about two weeks since the tires on the OZ's were shot and I REALLY didn't like the look on the TR. I was hopeful, but it didn't compare to how they fit on my CW GTI. The stock wheels just look so good on these cars, it's hard to find something that improves the overall look [as many of you know].

----------------------------------------------------------

Medieval Times Photo Session


Taken on November 10th, 2007

Having just washed and waxed Ralph Rimmy Rimmer III, I felt he deserved some much needed recognition. So after some cruising around South Orlando I stopped at Medieval Times to see what I could come up with. Nothing came out breath taking, but a couple of decent shots. This was taken with my Nikon D200 [forget what lens I was using at the time, possibly my old Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 lens.]

---------------------------------
--- YEAR ONE IN CONCLUSION ---
---------------------------------

Over the course of the first year of ownership, very little was done to the car. Partially due to finances, as I had spent it paying off all of my outstanding bills [except the .:R32 and my home] and the other problem being the lack of products available on the market. I did, however manage to do a few small modifications. Front plate, metal glove box handle, euro cup holder, and Haldex Controller with switch. I ended up selling my OZ's and using that money towards buying the Haldex upgrade with switch.

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR TWO ------------
---------------------------------

..coming soon..

[BetaOp9]

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR THREE ------------
---------------------------------

..coming soon..

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR FOUR ------------
---------------------------------

..coming soon..

[BetaOp9]

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR FIVE ------------
---------------------------------

..reserved..

---------------------------------
------------ YEAR SIX ------------
---------------------------------

..reserved..

---------------------------------
---------- Past Photos ----------
---------------------------------

[BetaOp9]

Notes:

Part/VW Part #:

• Hatch Stop Bumper x2 - 1K8 827 761C
• Rear Hatch Strut x2 - 6Y0 827 550C

Useful Links:

• R32 Diet Thread [Weight Saving Ideas]
• Radiator Fan Issue Thread [Troubleshooting/Reference]
• Aluminum Spindles Idea
• TT Control Arms + More

Weight Values

Rear Seat Backs [Total Weight = ~68.8lbs or ~1,101oz]
- Small Segment [Driver Side]: ~15.8lbs or ~253oz
- Large Segment [Passenger Side]: ~39.6lbs or ~634oz
- Rear Seat Cushion: ~13.4lbs or ~214oz

Misc Items
- Rear Seat Hinge Plastic Cover - ~1oz
- Seat Belt Buckle Assemble - ~0.72lbs or ~11.5oz

[gottiR32]

Cool thread, really. I like the way you put it all together and added that ba-ziiiing. I've been tossing about LEDs also, I like the stockers and they ain't broke ya know...

[entirelyvw]

Looking forward to this.

[AWPower]

I have been debating whether to make a build thread.

[BetaOp9]

Where do you live? I'd like to show you a pile of poop on your door step, lol!

I'm having trouble finding photos of my changes and part numbers from some of my custom bits. Going to be a boring build thread if I can't find them!

¤ Posted via Tapatalk on my Samsung Vibrant ¤

[PSU]

Err'one making their own threads.

Happy to say I revolutionized this trend.

[Ewinkdub04]

Err'one making their own threads.

Happy to say I revolutionized this trend.

youz a god

[Slave IV]

...because build threads didn't exist before 2008?

[BetaOp9]

Err'one making their own threads.

Happy to say I revolutionized this trend.

I had a build thread in 06 for my GTI. Never got around to doing the R32 since I hadn't done much till recently. ;-)

¤ Posted via Tapatalk on my Samsung Vibrant ¤

[mfbmike]

I have been waiting for this.

[PSU]

...because build threads didn't exist before 2008?

I'm talking about this specific forum. There never used to be any "action" in here, if you will.

[Slave IV]

Just messing around...You are definitely the man on this forum...probably helped all of us as much or more than anyone else on this forum.

[Av.]

Awesome work Shawn. I remember looking at the pics of the red R with the OZ's a long time ago when I was thinking about getting those wheels.

[PSU]

Just messing around...You are definitely the man on this forum...probably helped all of us as much or more than anyone else on this forum.

I wouldn't go that far now. LOL.

Back on topic though, LEDs look amazing on TR. Wish more people would follow suit.

[BetaOp9]

Small update.

[Nanozic]

Back on topic though, LEDs look amazing on TR. Wish more people would follow suit.

[BetaOp9]

Goodies going on this weekend! So excited!

===== Adams Rotors Front and Rear [Drilled / Drilled / Slotted] =====

• Adams Rotors AWD VW 345x30mm Custom Built - Front Pair [P/N MK5RF]
• Adams Rotors AWD VW 310x22mm Custom Built - Rear Pair [P/N MK5RR]

I hit 60k and it was time to replace the brake pads and rotors. I was torn between the lesser expensive option of OEM rotors or aftermarket rotors with a little flare. These rotors are made by Adams Rotors and are a big name in the Volkswagen community. I almost ordered these rotors but waited and sure enough a week later they went on sale, saving me $100 on all 4 corners. They're still heavy, with the front rotors weighing in at ~25.8 lbs each [measured on a bathroom scale, lol] and the rears weighing 15.2 lbs each. Supposidly, these are lighter than OEM rotors by a couple of pounds [partially due to the machine work.]

===== Hawk HPS Street Pads [F/R] =====

• 2008 MKV R32 Hawk HPS Brake Pads - FRONT [P/N HB538 F.760]
• 2008 MKV R32 Hawk HPS Brake Pads - REAR [P/N HB544 F.628]

I was in a debate between practicality and performance. Driving 80-100 miles a day, I always have brake dust build up on my wheels. On one hand I could go with a Ceramic compound which allows me to go pretty much decades without have to worry about dust build up, but this would mean sacrificing some performance. On the other hand the prospect of a hard biting racing compound did sound pleasing. Ultimately, I settled on the middle road and it didn't take long for me to decided to go with the Hawk HPS compound over the ceramic or race compounds. With the HPS pads, I should see some slight performance increase and still benefit from heavily reduced dust [when compared to the OEM brake pads] without the concerns that come with ceramic pads [issues biting when cold, can be noisy, and are more expensive] nor the racing compounds [short life, excessive dust]. I'm hoping with a good break in, these will prove to be the perfect enthusiast brake pad combination.

----------------------------------------------------------



===== TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit =====

• TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit - 2008 MKV R32 [P/N TSBCSKMK5R32]
• OPTIONAL OEM Rubber Guide Bushing Set [One Caliper] - 2008 MKV R32 [P/N 4D0698647] || LINK||

"TyrolSport revolutionary new Brake Caliper Stiffening bushings prevent the caliper flex inherent in the stock rubber-bushed design. This flex leads to uneven pad wear and rotor deposits under hard usage. An inexpensive way to upgrade the feel/performance of the stock brake system. Track tested and mother approved!" -TyrolSport's Website

I've been unsure as to IF I should get this kit or not for 6+ months, it wasn't until after getting input from people who have used these kits in the past, and a recent DIY for making your own dust cap that I decided to pull the trigger and get them. The idea behind performing the 'dust cap' mod is so that it will not be necessary for me to regularly maintain these [since they are rather exposed to the elements without the dust cap, requiring cleaning often]. I also really appreciate that it came with an extra stainless steel ring, in case I ruin or lose one [which is always a possibility with me]. I included the OEM bushing part number in the event you wanted/needed to replace the original bushings to do the dust cap modification. I waited too long to look into this, but at ~$20-30 per caliper, I'll just use the original ones and hope they're not damaged.

----------------------------------------------------------



===== HPA Core Interlock "Hockey Puck" =====

• HPA Core Interlock - 2008 MKV VW R32 [P/N HVW-904-90]

"Reduce motor flex to improve torque transfer to the drivetrain, and prevent excessive movement under hard accelleration." - HPA's Website

Looking from the top of HPA's Core Interlock, you will definitely agree that it looks like a hockey puck with a hole in it. It's designed to help reduce engine movement, similar in principle as the inexpensive DSG "Dogbone" inserts you see floating around for ~$40 [which I have currently installed] except the HPA Core Interlock should do a significantly better job being one solid piece.

With a group buy offering a deal too good to pass up, I went ahead and purchased one of these in the hopes of it preventing some of the engine slop I get when accelerating hard [even with the "Dogbone" insert installed].

----------------------------------------------------------



===== Contour GPS HD Video Camera /w Windshield Mount =====

Not so much a modification, but an accessory! Going to be fun capturing some video on Tail of the Dragon and various other adventures! I really like the idea of the GPS feature allowing me to follow my movements and getting feedback such as speed and elevation. The company is still implementing a lot of the features, but one that I'm super excited about is being able to connect via Bluetooth with my Android device and using it as a 'viewfinder' and adjust setting remotely. I hope this feature is done by SoWo!

Clicky here if you want more information.

[BetaOp9]

Cool thread, really. I like the way you put it all together and added that ba-ziiiing. I've been tossing about LEDs also, I like the stockers and they ain't broke ya know..

Thanks for the praise, man! I know how you feel, but think of it this way. You buy the LED tail lights, rock them till they break. Then you have a perfectly good set of OEM tail lights sitting in the shadows as a FREE replacement! Not that the LEDs will break, I've had mine since 2005-2006 when I had my 06 GTI and no issues *knock on wood*.

Back on topic though, LEDs look amazing on TR. Wish more people would follow suit.

I completely agree! They don't look cheap, they're bright, and they're sexy as hell.

--- CHALLENGE ACCEPTED PHOTO ---

Do it!

Awesome work Shawn. I remember looking at the pics of the red R with the OZ's a long time ago when I was thinking about getting those wheels.

Yeah, loved the OZ's on the CW GTI but not so much on my TR R32. I have no idea why to be honest, just didn't seem right.

Looking forward to this.

Thanks, keep your eyes peeled for more updates!

[cleanA3]

whould like to no on the hps pads on the dust , thinking of the ebc greens or these . Looking good !

[BetaOp9]

It's always something. Update to come regarding the install. I'm sort of annoyed with TyrolSport's choice in clips.

[BetaOp9]

Installation (Part 1)
[03/13/2011]




===== TyrolSport Brake Caliper Stiffening Kit =====

Pre-install Info Found Here

While replacing the front brake pads and rotors, I decided to toss in the TyrolSport Bronze Bushings to help 'hopefully' add a little stiffness to the brake pedal feel [a lot of speculation is that this doesn't do anything, but I didn't find many who didn't do JUST the bushings. Many did stainless steel braided brake lines at the same time].

I had a general idea of what I might be expecting to garner as a result of this modification, but was pleasantly surprised.

First, installation. I don't intend this to be a HOW TO really, since the TyrolSport guide is sufficient Link] However, there is one IMPORTANT element that is different from their guide.

Firstly, there has been a change in the kit not addressed in the guide. Originally the TyrolSport kit cames with a snap ring that looks similar to the below image. I believe it was originally copper with an option to upgrade to a stainless steel ring.

They now include a stainless steel retainer ring free of charge, but it's not the snap ring as pictured above. Snap rings can suck to use, but at least there is a tool that can be purchased or made to simplify installation, if needed. The stainless steel ring that was provided looks like the below photo. I don't know the technical name for this, but I'm just calling it a stainless steel retainer ring for now, or if there is a tool designed for this type of retainer ring but it took some time to figure out a method of application. [If you know of a better method of installing these rings, please tell me so I can update this for future installs]

What we did, after several trials and errors, was to pull apart the retainer ring and "thread" it over the lip for the retainer clip as pictured below.

This seems easy enough and isn't all the difficult out of the caliper, but it's more difficult when you have only a few mm's sticking through the hole for the caliper guide and trying to balance the whole assembly, hold the bushing in place, and slip the retainer ring over the retainer lip. It gets a bit unwieldy.

To ease the process, we found that if you expand the ring as shown below, you can nudge the ring onto the retainer lip starting with the pointed part of the clip [use a finger to press this into the retainer lip and hold it] and press the ring around the circumference of the bronze bushing over the retainer lip with a small flathead screw driver starting just after the pointed part of the clip [that is now seated into the retainer lip] and working your way around the ring until you have the retainer clip seated entirely into the retainer lip.

I really hope this helps some of you that gets this retainer clip. If someone knows a BETTER way to install these retainer rings, PLEASE let me know.

I ended up NOT doing the 'dust cap' modification as I was hoping to [we did attempt it] because between getting these clips on and dealing with holding the caliper, one side kept coming off as we tried to slip the bushing into the caliper because of an obstruction to the hole. We decided to use a high heat grease to lubricate the bushing [that came with my brake pads] and keep an eye on them over time. The HPS pads should not dust as much as the OEM pads, so I'm hoping it wont be much of an issue later on.

*** For those not sure what I am talking about with regards to the reason for the dust cap mod [gotti], per Tyrol they state these bushings should be regularly maintained at regular intervals [possibly as often as each time your rotate your tires] by removing the caliper bolts, cleaning them, and re-greasing them. I'll have to find where I sourced this information in a different thread. ***


Thoughts

So, I've only driven ~100 miles with the bushings in [today], but I definitely notice a lot more feedback in the brake pedal. I get more response into the brake pedal under hard braking and this includes some very minor vibration in the brake pedal during hard braking. Nothing visually noticeable on my person, but I can certainly feel how well the pads are biting the rotors. I expect this to dull once I have some miles on the car, since it's new right now. Once I get the pads and rotors properly broken in, if there is any change to how this feels and I'll let you know. Overall, I like the feel. I don't think it's IMPROVED braking so much as might be claimed by TyrolSport, but increase driver feedback can definitely improve driving characteristics with practice.

This is curtesy of 02VWGTIVR6

the snap rings were always difficult for me to install. they would always fly off the pliers and disappear. i like the new spin rings or whatever you call them. I haven't removed my bushings since I installed them either. I just pull out the pins once a year and grease. tyrol added this gif to their site if it helps with install:

-- Disclaimer --

If anything doesn't seem right, or I just sound like an idiot please let me know. I can't be held responsible if damages are incurred by following my methods. I'm a big believer in sharing knowledge for the betterment of the community, as I am learning on my own how to perform these installs I simply share what I have learned in the hopes of helping others. If you find some benefit from this or anything else I've written, just take 3 seconds to let me know so I know it was worth my time making this and will continue to do so. If something isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to expand or clarify.

Thank you for reading!

[5309]

Nice

[DarkNeo]

Great upgrades, especially adams rotors

[Saabstory02]

FYI you don't really need to remove the brass bushings to re-grease the tyrolsports. Just unbolt the retaining bolts, clean them, and re-grease with a good anti-sieze or high heat grease. As long as those are kept well greased, nothing else gets into the bushing anyway, so no need to remove it.

High Point - without needing to remove the bushing, this can be done with nothing more than the wheel off (bolts can be removed from the back without taking off the caliper)

Low Point - IF the bolt isn't greased well enough, damage could develop unseen.

I've been using this method for some time with no issues

[cleanA3]

nice info .

[Rdurty2]

awesome build thread.

[02VWGTIVR6]

Snap rings can suck to use, but at least there is a tool that can be purchased or made to simplify installation, if needed. The stainless steel ring that was provided looks like the below photo. I don't know the technical name for this, but I'm just calling it a stainless steel retainer ring for now, or if there is a tool designed for this type of retainer ring but it took some time to figure out a method of application. [If you know of a better method of installing these rings, please tell me so I can update this for future installs]

the snap rings were always difficult for me to install. they would always fly off the pliers and disappear. i like the new spin rings or whatever you call them. I haven't removed my bushings since I installed them either. I just pull out the pins once a year and grease. tyrol added this gif to their site if it helps with install:

[BetaOp9]

Installation (Part 2)
[03/13/2011]




===== HPA Core Interlock "Hockey Puck" =====

Pre-install Info Found Here

With so many people jumping in on the HPA Core Interlock Group Buy, I wanted to take a few moments to make a good solid write up on this. It's really a simple modification to do, but the only how-to I found said little more than "remove the old mount, lubricate the new one, and insert into the hole".

Preparation

You'll need a few tools. Firstly and most importantly, you need a 22mm socket and possibly a breaker bar if it proves stubborn to get the bolt off. Secondly, in order to remove the old mount you'll need to use brute force. A hammer + flathead screwdriver is a good stress relieving option and/or the addition of a power drill with a reasonable size bit to chew up the mount wall. Lastly, some soap and water to lubricate the new HPA mount to aid slipping the new mount into the hole. There are tons of various methods you can use to get this mount in, which thanks to human ingenuity the options are pretty open.

When doing this install, the two core elements you need to understand are this. The old mount has to come out, the new mount has to go in.

The OEM mount looks to be pressed into the hole using a press machine at the factory, so the mount itself will not spin or rotate within the hole even with the transmission arm removed. You do NOT need to remove the transmission mount arm to remove the OEM puck. If you feel the NEED to by all means feel free to, but it's not at all required.

Above we have the OEM Mount, this is what you see once you remove the bolt. I'm sure it's easy to tell what everything is made out of, but I didn't realize going into this the outer ring was actually plastic. Stupid, maybe, but never-the-less I decided to just indicate it anyways.

WARNING!!!! Once you remove the OEM Mount, there is no going back! The OEM Mount is destroyed in the process of removal!

Removal

1) Firstly, take the belly pan off. You should be able to figure out how to do this.

2a) Use a 21mm socket to remove the giant bolt from middle of OEM mount.

2b) OPTIONAL Use a 16mm socket to remove the pendulum mount bolts.

The fun part.

3a) Brute Force Method: Take a hammer + big flathead screwdriver and begin to do work on the plastic outer ring using the screwdriver like a chisel to chip away a column of the plastic wall. I chose the area of plastic in the smaller opening of the plastic for my location so that if the screwdriver slipped [which it did] then the rubber would limit how much movement that flathead saw. Do it wherever you can access best. Keep hammering and breaking of pieces of plastic as you go up, the below photo is perfect in showing you how the plastic broke off in small segments and eventually cracked the remaining 1/2" or so. Once this happened, it took a lot of prying to remove the OEM mount but might not have need to if we had gone all the way through the plastic wall, so I recommend just going till you've chiseled all the way to the other side of the plastic wall.

3b) Work Smart Not Hard Method: If you don't want to use the hammer+ flathead method, you can take a electric drill and drill into the plastic wall. I didn't like this, because I'm kind of afraid of drill bits breaking and getting lodged into my brain [yeah, I'm weird]. We DID try drilling out the rubber portion of the mount on one side to see if removing any outward tension this might have on the plastic wall and allow the mount to slide out, of course it did not so don't bother.

[Either way you do it: I started to cut the black rubber piece out that is in the center, but this piece is actually your best friend as you can put a screwdriver in the center hole and use it to get some leverage near the back side and wiggle your driver side to side to work the mount out. I recommend not removing the center portion as the rest of the mount may prove more difficult to remove once you do work your way through the plastic wall.]

4) Remove OEM mount and clean the area of any debris.

5) Grab your HPA Core Interlock. Lubricate it with soapy water, and get ready to shove this bad boy into the hole. Be Aware!! Make sure you line up the transmission mount arm with the cutout of the mount. The flat side faces DOWN towards you, and the cutout faces the FRONT of the car. It doesn't take much to throw off the alignment when you're shoving this in, so when you're pushing it in try not to apply and rotational force otherwise you'll have to push the mount out and try again.

If you push the new mount up and you get them 90% of the way and won't go the rest of the way, make sure you are aligned properly by looking through the opening where the mount arm goes in and make sure you see blue on the left and right. You can use the flathead driver and push it through the hole in the HPA mount and through the transmission arm and wiggle the DSG arm a little if you need to.

6) Once you have it seated all the way, grab your 21mm bolt and tighten it down well. I was told the re-torque spec for the 21mm bolt is 74 ft-lbs and the smaller pendulum mount 16mm bolts are 30 ft-lbs.

7) Enjoy crisper gear changes and harder launches!

Thoughts

I originally had one of the "dogbone" mount inserts installed for well over 50k miles. First thing I noticed was that it was ripped and torn. Over the years it got very dry and brittle, and took me a bit to pull each of the pieces out with some channel locks, but wasn't too bad to remove the useless piece of crap.

Upon start up I noticed the change immediately. I love this modification. It comes at a cost, with increased vibrations during specific instances, but this was to be expected when you tighten things up. The car shifts, with Revo DSG STG II DSG Software, are even snappier. It's ridiculous how much crisper the shifts are. I want to say it almost negates that "lurching" feeling you get as you blow through gears at wide open throttle, but need more time with it to verify [will update this later]. Combined with the many other modification the car becomes a very solid and snappy machine.

Good Vibrations

A high point of conversation on the HPA Core Interlock has to do with vibrations within the cabin. Everyone wants to know "What kind of vibrations do you feel?!?"

This is MY experience with the HPA Core Interlock and vibrations. In short, the vibration I am experiencing is only found at idle and light acceleration from a stop. I have noticed that if you sit with your foot pedal on the brake, the vibrations [in my case] goes away. When you let off the brake the vibrations return. I'm very confident this has to do with our DSG's manual-like design. These vibrations only appear to happen at points in time when the transmission has primed the clutches for power. The DSG will "feather" the clutch waiting for throttle input, thus resulting in the vibrations we're feeling transfered to the cabin as the DSG works to keep the clutch engaged. From a stop, if I left off the brake and let the DSG engage off the idle speed I'll notice the vibrations more. If I lightly apply throttle afterward releasing the brake, I'll also notice it more than if I were to press the throttle more aggressively.

This is purely speculation and if someone more knowledgeable can shed some light, please do. This doesn't explain why some users claim they have NO vibrations with this modification, since in theory all of the DSG's should all act similarly with this modification. This does explain why when the vehicle is in neutral, the vibrations disappear completely.


-- Disclaimer --

If anything doesn't seem right, or I just sound like an idiot please let me know. I can't be held responsible if damages are incurred by following my methods. I'm a big believer in sharing knowledge for the betterment of the community, as I am learning on my own how to perform these installs I simply share what I have learned in the hopes of helping others. If you find some benefit from this or anything else I've written, just take 3 seconds to let me know so I know it was worth my time making this and will continue to do so. If something isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to expand or clarify.

Thank you for reading!

[mfbmike]

Good read bud.

I'm stoked to get mine in. Thanks for the little tidbits you included regarding the proper way to insert the mount in and what not.

[Rdurty2]

Great writeup as always

Your vibrations are different then mine. Pressing the brake or not pressing the brake the vibrations are always there at idle for me. I feel it through the steering wheel and also in both front seats.

If I only felt the vibrations when letting off the brake I would be perfectly happy, but thats not the case with my car for who knows why.

[gottaluvvw]

great write up...though i will say there were at least three other write ups i found on this linked in PSU's .:R32 specific thread and through searches...your's is the most thorough (with the exception of no pictures underneath, which you will find in the other threads)

also, i used a 21mm socket and breaker bar (16mm for the dogbone, pendulum mount bolts) and the 21mm was a beaaach to get off until i got the breaker bar

retorque specs are 74 ft-lbs for the 21 and 30 ft-lbs for the 16mm's, iirc in one of the other build threads

i agree with being careful puting the hpa one back in carefully aligned...don't keep hammering it in unless you know it's aligned correctly (as i can't imagine trying to get it back out without destroying it)

i also used the screwdriver method to remove it...i would have used a drill (as mentioned in other diy threads); however my wife used the drill last and i couldn't find it (was in the new baby's room, oh well)

as far as the vibrations and performance...i have the exact experience you have...which seems to be different than rdurty2's...