FYI you don't really need to remove the brass bushings to re-grease the tyrolsports. Just unbolt the retaining bolts, clean them, and re-grease with a good anti-sieze or high heat grease. As long as those are kept well greased, nothing else gets into the bushing anyway, so no need to remove it.
High Point - without needing to remove the bushing, this can be done with nothing more than the wheel off (bolts can be removed from the back without taking off the caliper)
Low Point - IF the bolt isn't greased well enough, damage could develop unseen.
I've been using this method for some time with no issues
2014 BMW 328D xDrive
Installation (Part 2)
===== HPA Core Interlock "Hockey Puck" =====
Pre-install Info Found Here
With so many people jumping in on the HPA Core Interlock Group Buy, I wanted to take a few moments to make a good solid write up on this. It's really a simple modification to do, but the only how-to I found said little more than "remove the old mount, lubricate the new one, and insert into the hole".
You'll need a few tools. Firstly and most importantly, you need a 22mm socket and possibly a breaker bar if it proves stubborn to get the bolt off. Secondly, in order to remove the old mount you'll need to use brute force. A hammer + flathead screwdriver is a good stress relieving option and/or the addition of a power drill with a reasonable size bit to chew up the mount wall. Lastly, some soap and water to lubricate the new HPA mount to aid slipping the new mount into the hole. There are tons of various methods you can use to get this mount in, which thanks to human ingenuity the options are pretty open.
When doing this install, the two core elements you need to understand are this. The old mount has to come out, the new mount has to go in.
The OEM mount looks to be pressed into the hole using a press machine at the factory, so the mount itself will not spin or rotate within the hole even with the transmission arm removed. You do NOT need to remove the transmission mount arm to remove the OEM puck. If you feel the NEED to by all means feel free to, but it's not at all required.
Above we have the OEM Mount, this is what you see once you remove the bolt. I'm sure it's easy to tell what everything is made out of, but I didn't realize going into this the outer ring was actually plastic. Stupid, maybe, but never-the-less I decided to just indicate it anyways.
WARNING!!!! Once you remove the OEM Mount, there is no going back! The OEM Mount is destroyed in the process of removal!
1) Firstly, take the belly pan off. You should be able to figure out how to do this.
2a) Use a 21mm socket to remove the giant bolt from middle of OEM mount.
2b) OPTIONAL Use a 16mm socket to remove the pendulum mount bolts.
The fun part.
3a) Brute Force Method: Take a hammer + big flathead screwdriver and begin to do work on the plastic outer ring using the screwdriver like a chisel to chip away a column of the plastic wall. I chose the area of plastic in the smaller opening of the plastic for my location so that if the screwdriver slipped [which it did] then the rubber would limit how much movement that flathead saw. Do it wherever you can access best. Keep hammering and breaking of pieces of plastic as you go up, the below photo is perfect in showing you how the plastic broke off in small segments and eventually cracked the remaining 1/2" or so. Once this happened, it took a lot of prying to remove the OEM mount but might not have need to if we had gone all the way through the plastic wall, so I recommend just going till you've chiseled all the way to the other side of the plastic wall.
3b) Work Smart Not Hard Method: If you don't want to use the hammer+ flathead method, you can take a electric drill and drill into the plastic wall. I didn't like this, because I'm kind of afraid of drill bits breaking and getting lodged into my brain [yeah, I'm weird]. We DID try drilling out the rubber portion of the mount on one side to see if removing any outward tension this might have on the plastic wall and allow the mount to slide out, of course it did not so don't bother.
[Either way you do it: I started to cut the black rubber piece out that is in the center, but this piece is actually your best friend as you can put a screwdriver in the center hole and use it to get some leverage near the back side and wiggle your driver side to side to work the mount out. I recommend not removing the center portion as the rest of the mount may prove more difficult to remove once you do work your way through the plastic wall.]
4) Remove OEM mount and clean the area of any debris.
5) Grab your HPA Core Interlock. Lubricate it with soapy water, and get ready to shove this bad boy into the hole. Be Aware!! Make sure you line up the transmission mount arm with the cutout of the mount. The flat side faces DOWN towards you, and the cutout faces the FRONT of the car. It doesn't take much to throw off the alignment when you're shoving this in, so when you're pushing it in try not to apply and rotational force otherwise you'll have to push the mount out and try again.
If you push the new mount up and you get them 90% of the way and won't go the rest of the way, make sure you are aligned properly by looking through the opening where the mount arm goes in and make sure you see blue on the left and right. You can use the flathead driver and push it through the hole in the HPA mount and through the transmission arm and wiggle the DSG arm a little if you need to.
6) Once you have it seated all the way, grab your 21mm bolt and tighten it down well. I was told the re-torque spec for the 21mm bolt is 74 ft-lbs and the smaller pendulum mount 16mm bolts are 30 ft-lbs.
7) Enjoy crisper gear changes and harder launches!
I originally had one of the "dogbone" mount inserts installed for well over 50k miles. First thing I noticed was that it was ripped and torn. Over the years it got very dry and brittle, and took me a bit to pull each of the pieces out with some channel locks, but wasn't too bad to remove the useless piece of crap.
Upon start up I noticed the change immediately. I love this modification. It comes at a cost, with increased vibrations during specific instances, but this was to be expected when you tighten things up. The car shifts, with Revo DSG STG II DSG Software, are even snappier. It's ridiculous how much crisper the shifts are. I want to say it almost negates that "lurching" feeling you get as you blow through gears at wide open throttle, but need more time with it to verify [will update this later]. Combined with the many other modification the car becomes a very solid and snappy machine.
A high point of conversation on the HPA Core Interlock has to do with vibrations within the cabin. Everyone wants to know "What kind of vibrations do you feel?!?"
This is MY experience with the HPA Core Interlock and vibrations. In short, the vibration I am experiencing is only found at idle and light acceleration from a stop. I have noticed that if you sit with your foot pedal on the brake, the vibrations [in my case] goes away. When you let off the brake the vibrations return. I'm very confident this has to do with our DSG's manual-like design. These vibrations only appear to happen at points in time when the transmission has primed the clutches for power. The DSG will "feather" the clutch waiting for throttle input, thus resulting in the vibrations we're feeling transfered to the cabin as the DSG works to keep the clutch engaged. From a stop, if I left off the brake and let the DSG engage off the idle speed I'll notice the vibrations more. If I lightly apply throttle afterward releasing the brake, I'll also notice it more than if I were to press the throttle more aggressively.
This is purely speculation and if someone more knowledgeable can shed some light, please do. This doesn't explain why some users claim they have NO vibrations with this modification, since in theory all of the DSG's should all act similarly with this modification. This does explain why when the vehicle is in neutral, the vibrations disappear completely.
-- Disclaimer --
If anything doesn't seem right, or I just sound like an idiot please let me know. I can't be held responsible if damages are incurred by following my methods. I'm a big believer in sharing knowledge for the betterment of the community, as I am learning on my own how to perform these installs I simply share what I have learned in the hopes of helping others. If you find some benefit from this or anything else I've written, just take 3 seconds to let me know so I know it was worth my time making this and will continue to do so. If something isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to expand or clarify.
Thank you for reading!
Last edited by BetaOp9; 03-27-2011 at 03:59 PM.
Great writeup as always
Your vibrations are different then mine. Pressing the brake or not pressing the brake the vibrations are always there at idle for me. I feel it through the steering wheel and also in both front seats.
If I only felt the vibrations when letting off the brake I would be perfectly happy, but thats not the case with my car for who knows why.
great write up...though i will say there were at least three other write ups i found on this linked in PSU's .:R32 specific thread and through searches...your's is the most thorough (with the exception of no pictures underneath, which you will find in the other threads)
also, i used a 21mm socket and breaker bar (16mm for the dogbone, pendulum mount bolts) and the 21mm was a beaaach to get off until i got the breaker bar
retorque specs are 74 ft-lbs for the 21 and 30 ft-lbs for the 16mm's, iirc in one of the other build threads
i agree with being careful puting the hpa one back in carefully aligned...don't keep hammering it in unless you know it's aligned correctly (as i can't imagine trying to get it back out without destroying it)
i also used the screwdriver method to remove it...i would have used a drill (as mentioned in other diy threads); however my wife used the drill last and i couldn't find it (was in the new baby's room, oh well)
as far as the vibrations and performance...i have the exact experience you have...which seems to be different than rdurty2's...
Candy White 2008 .:R32 #532, Shark Blue 2010 Golf TDI, Platinum Gray Metallic 2017 Golf Wolfsburg
.:R you in? I'm in. You .:R what you drive.
Seduced by the Da.:Rk side I am.
The Golf R brings balance to the FoRce.
The rotor install is really straight forward. There is another DIY thread for the fronts and rears.
Doing the rears, make SURE you have a 14 mm triple square socket for the rear! This stupid socket is the reason I had to postpone the rears.
As for noise, they're new and put 150ish miles on them before dropping the car off @ Dayas Custom Auto. Until I can put down a nice mirror finish on the rotor, they'll be a little noisier. Honestly, the Altima brakes are way noisier than the new pads and rotors on the .:R, lol.
Let me know when you come down! Can maybe hook you up with some discounts on Universal tickets. ;-)
¤ Posted via Tapatalk on my Samsung Vibrant ¤
A day of utter disappointment.
Delayed till Monday-Tuesday thanks to VW, they delayed one of the parts.
To add to the gloom and doom that hangs over today, lets see the photos of after the valet driver tried to drive over a parking curb. I'd have been SOOOOOO pissed had I not noticed, and I almost didn't if it wasn't for the sidemarker hanging down [yeah thats how much force was involved, it flexed the bumper to the point that it popped the sidemarker OUT of it's snug home]
Passenger Side Front Bumper - This side looks the worst and you can see the destroyed tab. I was so sad when I saw this pull up.
Driver Side Front Bumper - The bumper corner tab is of course torn and the fender was pulled a little.
Underside pretty destroyed.