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    Thread: 1981 Rabbit Convertable

    1. Member syracusegli's Avatar
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      04-15-2011 10:23 AM #26
      check for vacuum leaks.
      have you replaced the belts yet? it also sounds like your alt might be on its way out
      Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
      go crash into a hybrid
      For powder coating and fabrication ---> www.roguemetalworks.com
      IG- Roguemetal

    2. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-15-2011 07:11 PM #27
      thanx 4 the reassurance about the alternator. i havent replaced the belt yet. but it looks to have been replaced by the previous owner not to long ago.

      new alt n fuel filter are next. any suggestions on a alternator to upgrade to?? or a better brand name rather than a factory remaned.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    3. Member syracusegli's Avatar
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      04-16-2011 01:58 AM #28
      if you want to upgrade, id recommend swapping to the mk3 serp set up with the alt
      Quote Originally Posted by 2mAn View Post
      go crash into a hybrid
      For powder coating and fabrication ---> www.roguemetalworks.com
      IG- Roguemetal

    4. Member Tougemachine's Avatar
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      04-16-2011 02:42 AM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post
      any advice or knowledge to add would b awesome.
      Have you checked the air in the tires?
      I my Savannah Cat

    5. 04-16-2011 11:18 AM #30
      If you're going to do the ball joints, you should just swap the tie rod ends and replace the strut bearings now while you're in there.

      Check your shocks too, now's the time to replace all that stuff so that you don't have to do another alignment in the near future.

      While you're at it, you could replace the A-arm bushings - use OEM rubber ones, not poly.

      Basically, freshen up the whole front end so you don't have to worry about any of it being worn.

      -Fab

    6. 04-16-2011 11:22 AM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post
      i didnt have a torque wrench that big, so used a huge breaker bar with a long pipe on it. i would say its torqued to about 150/180lbs by the feel of it.
      Big ass cheater bar is fine, and it's easy to figure out the torque: get the bar horizontal, stand on it at the right distance. If you weigh 180lbs, stand a bit over a foot from the nut with all your weight on the bar, and you'll have 200ft-lbs.

      2400/ will give you the distance on the cheater where you should stand, in inches.

      -Fab

    7. 04-16-2011 11:24 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post
      after i did that i used a breaker bar to put tension on the alternator cuz the belt looked loose when it was running. drove it to town n the idle started kicking down to about 500rpms n dieing sometimes when i would hit a stop sign. i think maybe i put to much tension on the alt n messed up the internals??..
      Did the belt squeal? If not, then it was fine. Too much tension is a bad thing, probably worse for the the alternator than the crank. You shouldn't need a breaker bar to tension the alt.

      Did you reduce the tension and it's still dying on you?

      -Fab

    8. Member Tougemachine's Avatar
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      04-16-2011 12:13 PM #33
      I did the same thing on my 91 (over tightned the belt) and it destroyed my water pump in like 4 days. Nasty squealing noise.
      I my Savannah Cat

    9. 04-16-2011 12:55 PM #34
      there's a diff between belt squealing and bearings squealing. I hadn't even though of the waterpump, good point. You definitely want belt squeal over bearing squeal.

      A serp setup is a sure way of fixing this and getting a more modern, higher output alternator.

    10. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-17-2011 03:37 PM #35
      air in the tires are at 35PSI lol.

      do all the pulleys from a MK3 just swap over? and is the belt gunna b the same distance?

      i figured that putting to much tension on the alternator was not a good idea after that started happening. i did loosen it and it seemed to correct itself but i think it was too late. it doesnt hold idle at all all now.

      i found a vaccum leak n i think the hose needs to b replaced, it was one of the lines that goes from the intake to intake manifold.

      and the belt didnt squeal prior to the overtightening. it still doesnt.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    11. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-17-2011 08:50 PM #36
      my intake manifold was loose!! n it was missing 2 bolts!!

      its tight now but still missing a bolt i didnt know the one closest to the pulleys was longer so ill have to get another one of those.. runs better than when i got it now!!

      i changed the fuel filter and its leaking a lil bit. i changed out the washers with new ones but i think maybe the inlet side washer is a lil to big it can move around a lil on the bolt.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    12. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-18-2011 10:30 AM #37
      got the fuel leak fixed. had to put an old washer back on.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    13. Member Tougemachine's Avatar
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      04-18-2011 10:48 AM #38
      Take the old copper washer. Heat it up till it glows. Drop it in a cup of cold water. Van. It's like new. Trust me. It works. If its really old than do it twice. It really soften up nice
      I my Savannah Cat

    14. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L 150K, 1981 VW Rabbit Convertable 2.0 ABA CE2 swap, 1984 GTI
      04-22-2011 02:13 AM #39
      ill have to try that next fuel filter

      got a wierd problem that just started happening 4 some reason im guessing due to bad grounds. the water temp light blinks constantly and when the lights get turned on the tach n dash lights stop working but with lights off the tach is fine.

      also washed it 4 the first time the other day n it was fine after that til this dayzz later. also cleaned out the rain tray, alot of rotting leaves in there.

      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    15. Member mk1daily's Avatar
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      04-22-2011 02:05 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by ftillier View Post
      If you're going to do the ball joints, you should just swap the tie rod ends and replace the strut bearings now while you're in there.

      Check your shocks too, now's the time to replace all that stuff so that you don't have to do another alignment in the near future.

      While you're at it, you could replace the A-arm bushings - use OEM rubber ones, not poly.

      Basically, freshen up the whole front end so you don't have to worry about any of it being worn.

      -Fab
      What he said.

      There was someone on here selling a whole kit for like $50.

      P.S. I'll take your snowflakes if you don't want them

    16. Member RedWabbitVR's Avatar
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      04-22-2011 02:17 PM #41
      tops are not stupid expensive, just a little expensive

      two places I found:

      http://www.mtmfg.com/category/view/1015

      http://www.chucksconvertibleparts.com/rabbit_tops.php

      good luck and let me know which one you go with and how you liked it. I still need to pick mine out.
      VRSociety #301

    17. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-22-2011 05:48 PM #42
      Quote Originally Posted by RedWabbitVR View Post
      tops are not stupid expensive, just a little expensive

      two places I found:

      http://www.mtmfg.com/category/view/1015

      http://www.chucksconvertibleparts.com/rabbit_tops.php

      good luck and let me know which one you go with and how you liked it. I still need to pick mine out.
      any with a rear window already cut? i was looking at some stickies on another site on how to replace a top. doesnt look very hard n kinda straight forward but the back window is what kind of discourages me.

      as 4 the front suspension overhaul. this rabbit has ALOT of rust some in some bad spots some in some spots that can be fixed with just a body panel replacement or a door. i mainly bought this car 4 a back up vehicle just need it to be driveable n efficiant.

      issue in my last post is what im really worried about.

      n keeping the snowflakes gunna throw em back on after the alignment n balljoints.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    18. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      04-26-2011 10:03 AM #43
      super wierd but i know its got to be a ground now. after a few days of the temp gauge light flashing and the dash lights, and tach not working with the lights on. it rained n the problem went away. also when i turned down the dimmer the tach would come on half way also the hi-beam indicator light would come on kinda dim too. its fine now tho.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    19. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L 150K, 1981 VW Rabbit Convertable 2.0 ABA CE2 swap, 1984 GTI
      04-29-2011 03:04 AM #44


      used one jack to hold the car up n used the other one to put tension on the hub so it would b up n out of the way.



      balljoint out.



      new one almost in.



      finished (sept for the 17mm bolt)
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    20. Member lmta20's Avatar
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      05-03-2011 02:25 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post


      used one jack to hold the car up n used the other one to put tension on the hub so it would b up n out of the way.

      PLEASE use jack stands.

      You're from Astoria? I lived there not too long ago, and Warrenton.


      P.s. I hate Astoria..

      P.s.s. Use jack stands


    21. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L 150K, 1981 VW Rabbit Convertable 2.0 ABA CE2 swap, 1984 GTI
      05-07-2011 04:56 PM #46
      astoria born n raised. used jack stands when i did the CV axle love it here but cant wait to get out.

      im pretty sure my cat is shot. so ive been pondering cutting it out cutting the flange off of it and welding it to a glasspack n sleeving it over the existing pipe. sound good??

      also put down the crack pipe n put some new vaccum line in 4 the brake booster line cuz it had a leak.



      snapped a pic of both my rides too.

      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    22. Member lmta20's Avatar
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      05-07-2011 05:15 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post
      astoria born n raised. used jack stands when i did the CV axle love it here but cant wait to get out.

      Do you know the Palmerton's?

    23. 05-07-2011 07:21 PM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by andymccauley View Post
      im pretty sure my cat is shot. so ive been pondering cutting it out cutting the flange off of it and welding it to a glasspack n sleeving it over the existing pipe. sound good??
      Pull off the cat, take a long screw driver, and chip away at the junk inside. Empty it out into the trash. Now you have a hollowed out cat, that looks like a cat from the outside, so it will pass a visual inspection when you go get DEQ.

      Alternatively, just get a new cat, they're not that expensive, and they're there for a reason. If you burn through your cat, fix the root of the problem before replacing.

      Cheers,
      -Fab

    24. Member andymccauley's Avatar
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      05-08-2011 04:04 AM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by lmta20 View Post
      Do you know the Palmerton's?
      cant say i do. im only 21 my brother might hes 24.

      Quote Originally Posted by ftillier View Post
      Pull off the cat, take a long screw driver, and chip away at the junk inside. Empty it out into the trash. Now you have a hollowed out cat, that looks like a cat from the outside, so it will pass a visual inspection when you go get DEQ.

      Alternatively, just get a new cat, they're not that expensive, and they're there for a reason. If you burn through your cat, fix the root of the problem before replacing.

      Cheers,
      -Fab
      as 4 DEQ there is none around here. so that isnt a issue. i know they are there 4 a reason but i like the glasspack adding a lil more resistance than alot like a cat would, seems to have alot more flow.
      1988 Mazda B2200 2.2L http://www.mazdatruckin.com/vBulleti...-88-b2200.html
      1981 VW Rabbit 2.0 ABA CE2 swapped (TOTALLED)
      1984 GTI

    25. 05-08-2011 02:45 PM #50
      Ahh, forgot DEQ is only portland area... Still, hollowing out the cat is a lot easier and cheaper than making a glasspack fit.

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