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    Thread: easy replacement of oil pressure sensor '00 V6

    1. 03-20-2011 11:30 PM #1
      I had read a report here, regarding changing the oil pressure sensor on the V6 engine; someone mentioned that they'd removed the oil filter mounting collar, and that it was a PITA.

      Just a datapoint, but I had no trouble doing an oil change and replacement of the pressure sensor; I didn't even need to jack the car up.

      Looking at the oil filter, the sensor was up a couple of inches higher; and back six inches or so further from the driver's side. It took a 22mm wrench to loosen, and there was very little room to fit the wrench; but it wasn't any harder than getting the filter off.

    2. 03-21-2011 07:01 PM #2
      Well, before the replacement, I was using whatever oil the Quick Lube people threw in, and their cheap no-name filter With the replacement of pressure sensor, I changed to the Mann (OE) filter, Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40, and the new pressure sensor. Unfortunately, after the change, I now get the low-pressure warning every time RPMs get above about 1800. If I let them fall back to idle, the warning goes away within about 2 seconds.

      Could switching from dino-oil to full synth lower the oil pressure?

      I'm also looking at the sensor itself: the one I removed is labelled only "FEP >PA6GF30< Germany". The box of the one I picked-up at NAPA is labelled "06A 919 081 D" and "Meyle product Germany" I'm not sure that I didn't put in a replacement with incorrect bar sensitivity.

    3. Member rayj's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 10th, 2009
      norwalk, ct
      2000 B5 2.8L V6 wagon 2013 jetta 2.5L auto
      03-22-2011 03:18 PM #3
      The one thing i have picked up in reading on dino vs synth is that you might start leaking oil because the detergents in synth oil may clean out crud that has accumulated. I don't see that applying to you unless you can see massive oil leaks.

      So you didn't get the low pressure alerts before the change over? interesting. Thanks for the write-up by the way

    4. 03-24-2011 04:26 PM #4
      It sounds like "PA6GF30" is just the type of black plastic. The part I put in was 06A919081D, and the part I removed was 919081A. Looks like I got the correct part.

      I was reading:

      VW uses 2 oil pressure switch. a low, 0.3 bar and a high 1.8 bar swicth. the low is normally always ground. when you start the car or idle, if there is enough pressure (only low pressure is needed) then the pressure causes a break in the ground and the buzzer NOT to go off. if your buzzer goes off when starting or idling... you're not even building .3 bar of pressure.

      the second switch is normally not grounded...only activates in between 2k-2.5k rpm...if, while within this rpm range, your car is unable to produce about 1.8 bar of oil pressure, then the switch does not activate and the ground is not completed...causing the oil buzzer to go off."
      The part that I pulled is 919081A, labelled "1.2-1.6" (bar, I think). So that sounds like the "second switch".

      ...and also
      ...which describes the second switch as the "high pressure" switch (meaning, it tells you if pressure is low, when it should be higher, at 2k-2.5k RPMs).

      It sounds as though my problem is: there is more than 0.3 bar (5 psi) at idle, but less than 1.2-1.6 bar (20 psi) at 2k RPMs. I've also read that using a thicker oil (weather permitting) can help. So maybe moving to synthetic oil for summer was the wrong idea.

    5. Member rayj's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 10th, 2009
      norwalk, ct
      2000 B5 2.8L V6 wagon 2013 jetta 2.5L auto
      03-25-2011 12:00 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Rema1000 View Post
      I've also read that using a thicker oil (weather permitting) can help. So maybe moving to synthetic oil for summer was the wrong idea.
      I thought that 5W-30 was the correct oil in all my cars, but now think 10W-40 would be better in the summer to combat the heat. Last summer was extremely hot. I dont think the oil weight has anything to do with whether you use dino or synthetic.

      You didn't mention why you changed the sensor in the first place, and still not sure that your replacement is the correct one. Consider putting your old one back in to see if that one will still work

    6. 03-26-2011 06:01 PM #6
      My original problem was two occurrences of an Oil Warning Light and "STOP" message: once while driving in-town; and a second time, about two weeks later, just after exiting the freeway. In both cases, I pulled the car over to the roadside and shut the engine off, and waited 5 minutes. In both cases, the engine oil level was fine. After starting the car again, the oil pressure light did not come back on, nor were there any other warnings.

      I thought that perhaps the oil pressure sensor was going bad. It's cheap, so I thought I'd replace it first, just to rule it out. But after replacing the oil pressure sensor, I immediately got the Oil light and "STOP" message every time the engine speed exceeded 2000 RPM. It didn't seem likely that pressure was lower than before, unless using different oil and filter changed things. I thought perhaps the new sender was more sensitive than the original.

      Today I put an oil pressure gauge on, and it read:
      - 4.7 bar after start (high idle)
      - 4.1 bar after idle settled down to 800 RPM
      - 4.8 bar @ 2k RPM
      - 5.1 bar @3k RPM
      - 5.5 bar @4k RPM

      ...so it didn't look like pressure was low. I put the pressure sensor back on, and now I get no alarms.

      My guess is that I probably didn't have the sender wire connected cleanly when I replaced the sensor. It was acting the same as if the sensor were unplugged. Then I wondered if that might have been the cause of the first two low pressure warnings. Rather than replacing the sensor first, I should have just unplugged the sensor wire, checked whether the sensor relay was closed or open at 2k RPM, cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner, and put it back together.

    7. 06-19-2011 04:33 PM #7
      Just as a follow-up, I unhooked the new pressure sending unit, and cleaned contacts with electrical contact cleaner, and reconnected. Problem solved. So I think the previous sending unit was bad; but that I botched the hookup on the new unit the first time. Anyways, no more STOP messages.

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