Last edited by AJmustDIE; 04-23-2011 at 10:42 PM.
What are you trying to use it for?
Are you planing on fine tuning yourself? Or do you just want to have a visual of whats goin on?
As far as the wideband goes, it's just the O2 sensor and the gauge. You don't need* a controller or anything for it to serve it's purpose.
It's absolutely a must have for turbo'd cars IMO.
I can honestly say that I don't know of any controllers that VW uses other than VAGcom.
And if that the only one than you don't necessarily need a wideband for tuning because vag has it all visual for you.
But again. It's good to have regardless so you know what going on at all times.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by 1.AteTee MkIV; 04-27-2011 at 12:10 PM.
i wish i was a little less slower...i wish i was lower....i wish i had paint that looked good i would show her...i wish i had a rabbit with a hatch in the back with a custom fit boser.
^ has everything you need plug and play.
Innovate has a nicer more accurate one but is also a bit more pricey and not really needed for you application really. The AEM will suit your needs just fine. The controller is for datalogging and unless you plan on tuning your own car I dont think its necessary.
The AEM guage fits perfect in 42DD's guage holders too!
Last edited by 2pt. slo; 04-27-2011 at 01:18 PM.
Thanks for clearing up everything for me guys, more than helpful.
Got some news, Instead of using the autotech clutch kit I was browsing NGP Racing's site, I regularly order from them, and found this:
It's a DXD Racing Clutch, Stage 2 "Daily" Kit.
It has a torque capacity of 325 ft. lbs, I got the stage 2 over stage one, because it's the same feel for more grabbing force (+25 ft lbs), I might go to a bigger turbo after this one, so this is just so I won't have to take the trans back off.
HOPEFULLY, it will not be too bad. It's a full face disk so I think i'll be ok. Also I got work done today on the car.
I got my intercooler polished up, slapped on some nonsense.
Got the hot parts coated with this stuff, so the crap won't start rusting/corroding on me.
One last test fit..
First mount mock up,
I really need to stop burning through..
Second mount mock up,
My ultra awesome way of making a perfect circle.
Looks MUCH better, also got a flat surface to mount the tank & pump to.
Threw it back on top,
Should get all the piping and whatnot taken care of soonish, waiting on my order of t-bolt clamps and more water lines from FrozenBoost.
That's it for now, apologizing for the slowness of this process.. to myself and to you guys. lol.
AEM widebands SUCK. They are known to be finicky, and not that accurate, plus no expandability. also, they don't put out a simulated narrowband reading, so you have to keep your stock sensor as well.
Yes, you need a sensor, controller, and gauge. Some of the cheaper unit have the controller built into the gauge.
Best wideband for the money IMO is the LC-1. They can be had on Ebay now for $160-170 shipped all day long. Also, speaking from experience, if you kill it, it dies on you, ect, it is a free replacement if it is a non customer created issue, and if it's your fault it broke, they will replace it for $40. No receipt needed. I bought a broken one for $20 for this very reason. They fixed it/replaced it for $40. A few friends have done the same, plus they have their own forum dedicated to all there software/guages, so tech support is VERY easily had.
Yeah I was tryin' to stay away from AEM, thanks for all the info!
Looks like I'll buy exactly what you just linked there.
Edit: Also, what kind of o2 sensor (2) should I buy to replace the 2 for the ECU? Do the widebands work for that as well? Or different wires? Sorry this kind of stumps me as well. Never looked into this kind of stuff.
Last edited by AJmustDIE; 04-28-2011 at 02:41 AM.
You can remove your front O2 sensor, and wire the LC-1 to send a stock narrowband signal to the ECU. The signal is not only more accurate, but you can even program how it reads, to eek out some more mileage. Only issue, is, the computer will throw a code for "front bank, O2 heater, open circuit" since the heater wires are disconnected from the stock sensor. You can get around this, by probing the sensors heater, reading the ohm rating, and putting a appropriate resistor between the 2 heater wires.
The rear sensor is removeable. It's ONLY purpose is to make sure the Cat is doing it's job. Depending on what software you are running, you will get a code for either "B2 S1 (bank 2, sensor 1) signal circuit open, and "B2 S1, heater circuit open" If running c2s program, you won't throw a code.
lol, I'm going to grind them down.
I have no problem with criticism, that's why I posted the pics, btw.. I'm sure if I had a decent welder with some lincoln wire, they'd be wayyy better. lol,
Not this POS chicago electric Flux core ****.
Thanks for the support guys!
To be honest, I'm rather not sure.
I'm gonna be at 10psi, for a little while.
It's a small turbo, though it's ball bearing and spools like nobody's business.
I've *heard* they max out shortly after 15psi, which with a bleed valve on the internal wastegate I'm sure I could squeeze more.
An honest estimate at 10psi, with COLD air - anywhere from 210-240whp.
I'm not the best on giving this estimate as this is the first car I've turbocharged and I don't have any other mods to the motor but the AEG intake, which is more of a looker than a power adder. Stock cam, and some other nonsense.
I'm sure one of the well known ABA-t builders will chime in sometime after this and give me a more accurate number.
Now, as far as final numbers for when I have everything I'm going to buy, get worked and what not. I fully intend to be a part of the 300hp+ 8v club.
Oh btw seth thanks for that PM, never got around to replying but thanks dude .
I'm going to subscribe to this, as I hope to do a similar low-budget setup on a mk2 OBD1 aba swap. I guess I have the benefit of the forged parts and no CEL's to worry about wiring around . Definitely taking lessons learned from you, this thread is taking a huge chunk of time out of my work hours haha. As for the manifold, did you ever consider a DIY SRI? I recently read a thread on here on cutting the stock ABA intake manifold and bringing it to a welding shop totaling at $40 total cost. Might be a nice alternative since you're worried about space with that exhaust manifold you don't like very much.
Hahaha yeah, it's the best, simplest thing I could think of.
A couple pics of piping progress, still a little bit more to go. Sorry, more cell pics, fiance took the camera last night.. ugh.
Cleaned and resprayed this area.
And here are some pictures of the way the piping is routed. Almost done with it.
Btw, the engine cover is just laying there.
I love the way it's turning out.
Major props to you my friend!! I have an ABA-t already and love it... t3t4 50 trim at only 5 psi and I slowly pull from chipped VRs ... I've also got a custom sri...
Clutch slips bad so I'll be looking at the clutch you had in mind
Also maybe water meth in the future. Oh and I just picked up a 1.8 16v head for it and it's in my basement making progress to go in hopefully sometime this summer after and trans and clutch upgrade!
for you! Wish you were in PA... would love to see it in person!
You might want to add some supports to your brackets as overtime the weight of the IC with water in it will make them fail... whether they bend or break completely.
Oh... and how long did it take you to polish that intake manifold? I want to do mine... but I just want to know what kind of work I'm getting myself into before I start (probably wont do this til next winter, but still)
2.0T... it's back!
I'm most likely going to keep the SOCH for simplicity and as the years go on, just upgrade and upgrade. I got a line on an OBDI head with a 270 cam already in it at the moment.
As for the polishing.. oh god..
First, you need a couple things. You're going to need to take ALL the pits from the aluminum from where it was cast. I experimented with a couple different ways to do this, the VERY best way hands down is to go to walmart or lowes, home depot and pick up one of those paint/rust remover pads for a 4 1/2" grinder, you will also need that. lol.
It will pretty much make the surface of the aluminum soft and pitless which is the best way to start the polishing process. Then you're going to need various sandpapers from 120 allll the way to 2000, removing each set of sanding marks as you step up the grit. Start wetsanding with WD40 when you reach 1000 grit, I loved this part, the shine starts to come out and the best part is.. the aluminum dust no longer flys in the air. Once all the sanding is good and done, believe me you will know when it is, and if you don't - keep sanding. lol.
Picking up some rubbing/polishing compounds, follow those instructions and it will go from this:
To this: (Best picture I had while I was replying, sorry.. repost)
There is also a pic of the valve cover a couple pages ago, same stuff.
But all in all.. time spent.. maybe.. 10 hours? It's definitely worth it in my book.
[QUOTE=AJmustDIE;71385010]Thank man, and yeah I've had a thought or two about 16v conversion, all of us 8v guys have I bet.
I'm most likely going to keep the SOCH for simplicity and as the years go on, just upgrade and upgrade. I got a line on an OBDI head with a 270 cam already in it at the moment.[QUOTE=AJmustDIE;71385010]
Yeah man idk... im looking for an 8 valve head now too... I may not go anywhere with the 16v head... I have it up for sale too. 8v= less parts when upgrading= not emptying your pockets ha
Figured I'd show nfx what I was talking about earlier, nothing special but it gets the job done.
All this cutting would of went MUCH faster with a bandsaw..
Got the last piece of charpe piping finished, (intercooler to throttle body), Took awhile to get that last piece to fit just right.
Had to cut the engine cover in some places, will clean it up later.
As mentioned earlier, this is still a problem, so I think I'm just gonna seal this up in some way, and take the engine cover off to check the oil, no problem.
Got everything tightened up, now just need to run the oil/water lines to the turbo, fill 'er up with new oil, somehow get a custom downpipe made, figure out how to run the turbo inlet to work with my existing neuspeed heat shield, run the o2 sensors, get all the air/water lines checked for water tightness, order my wideband, fill 'er up with 93 octane and fire it up! Might be missing a thing or two but you get the idea.